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Out with the DE-704 norcold and in with the R4500 Nova Kool (32xx)

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    Out with the DE-704 norcold and in with the R4500 Nova Kool (32xx)

    1989 32701984 3270For several reasons, it was time for the Norcold DE704 fridge to go in our 1989 3270. I chose to replace it with a Nova Kool R4500 and also purchased the 704 trim kit. Ohana5 decided to swap his out at the same time in 1984 3270 and bought the identical setup. We did them both in an afternoon. There were a few differences which I'll explain as we go..the original fridge in the '89:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797361=39433-5_old_norcold.jpg[/img]The R4500 arrived well packed and easy to move

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797361=39432-1_new_on_dock.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797361=39431-1_packed_well.jpg[/img]But after unpacking it would not fit through the door.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797361=39434-3_wont_fit.jpg[/img]On the '89 it was a simple matter of removing the door stop (watch for the hidden 3rd screw under the latch. On the '84 it was even simpler - the door lifted off and was moved. The fridges easily fit into both boats after that.Turn off your house batteries, turn off the AC breaker that supplies the fridge, empty the fridge, remove the fridge door (the top hinge pin unscrews with a 7/16" wrench), and then remove each of the door brackets from all four corners. This is so you don't scratch/gouge anything when the fridge is on it's way out.To remove the old fridge, there's two black plastic plugs in the vertical trim on either side of the fridge. A flat blade screwdriver coaxes them out a bit - pliers and a good pull finishes the job. You don't need these plugs - the new fridge comes with new plugs. Once the plugs are out there's screws in each of the (four) holes holding the fridge in. Remove them and yes - they will back out the holes even though they look too big.What I did not take a picture of (but you can see in the final picture next post), is there is a horizontal piece of teak trim across the fridge top held with a pair of screws. This needs to be removed as well. Once the screws are out and the trim is removed. give the fridge a good tug and it should come loose.On the '84 (and '85 I think) the "wall" to the starboard of the fridge protrudes into the galley by about 6" more than the same wall on the '89 (more on this later). This means the angle of the fridge is different, and the fridge it a lot tighter to remove. On the '84 - remove the cupboard doors, pull out the drawer, and if you have a propane shut-off - pay close attention to it as well and be prepared to remove it (we had to, but it was close).On the '89 the wires were long enough to allow the fridge to slide out (I walked it actually) into the galley without any interference:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797361=39435-7_old_fridge_out.jpg[/img]On the '84, the wires were not long enough. You'll have to remove the front lowest panel and cut the DC wires. The fridge can not be removed without cutting these wires (Don't ask me how I know this). The AC wires should then have "just" enough slack to allow you to remove the fridge and sneak in behind it to remove a tie-wrap an unplug the fridge. On both boats the fridge needs to be lifted clear of the counter and up, in order to get it into the salon. It fits through the door way without a problem.Take some time now, clean out the cave area and prepare it for the new fridge. On the '84, little preparation is necessary. but on the '89, note the location of the AC plug and the wire harness/water pipes on the back wall:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797361=39436-10_orignal_AC_location.jpg[/img](to be continued)
    ________________
    1989 Bayliner 3270
    135hp (stock) -> 150hp (Injector pump mod) -> 170 hp (aftercoolers) Hino's
    MMSI 316 021 107
    Past Commander, Seymour Power and Sail Squadron
    Current instructor North Shore Power and Sail Squadron
    Rear Commodore BYC

    #2
    1989 32701984 3270(continued from the last post)The fridge needs 19 1/2" depth. With the AC outlet there, I has less than 18" - no go. And the wire feeding the AC outlet had no extra length, so I simply moved the outlet down, and in the new location it fits into a "nook" in the back of the fridge:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797366=39438-11_relocated_AC.jpg[/img]Once done I thought that would be enough to get the needed room, but it was not. I further had to separate the wire bundle form the water hoses and route them all so they were as flat as possible on that back bulkhead. It took a few minutes, but was not difficult and I picked up the 1/4" or so I needed.Time now to turn our attention to the fridge. The 704 Trim kit consists of sheet metal feet for the fridge (to raise it) and four pieces of trim - two that attach to the sides, one to the top, and one too the bottom. To attach the feet we found it easiest to lay the fridge down on it's front and use the front trim as a stop. The screws simply self -drill/tap into the sheet metal so much easier down with a drill. Instillation took only a minute:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797366=39439-8_add_feet.jpg[/img]The four other pieces then go together like a picture frame - sides first, then the top and bottom. The instructions from Nova Kool were good, but sure could have benefited form a picture or two. Of note - there's been a couple of installs of this kit that were well documented here several years ago, these install had issues with fastener length/fit etc. We had no issues at all with the kit or the fasteners - other than the fit was a bit tight due to the thickness of the powder coating. that issues was a minor annoyance - not a problem.Once the trim kit was on, we removed the door (but not the brackets) and lowered the new fridge into the galley the same way the old one came out. We then did up the DC wires, plugged in the AC plug, and slid the fridge into place - an operation that proved to be completely without drama (now that the wires/hoses etc were moved):From that point it was a matter of installing the four screws into the side brackets (the holes lines up perfectly with the original Norcold holes - I mean perfectly!), and then adding the teak trim piece back on the top:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797366=39440-13_trim_on.jpg[/img]Everything fit absolutely perfectly - big kudos to Nova Kool - I really don't think this swap could have been any easier. We had both fridges done in about 4 hours- but it should have been 3 (tight wire syndrome).Once installed it was testing time:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797366=39441-14_testing.jpg[/img]And finally, a decision had to be made to stick with the stock black front or go with the teak front (old Norcold panel but cut to fit). We went with the teak:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797366=39443-15_black_front.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797366=39442-16_wood_front.jpg[/img]
    ________________
    1989 Bayliner 3270
    135hp (stock) -> 150hp (Injector pump mod) -> 170 hp (aftercoolers) Hino's
    MMSI 316 021 107
    Past Commander, Seymour Power and Sail Squadron
    Current instructor North Shore Power and Sail Squadron
    Rear Commodore BYC

    Comment


      #3
      Footnote:Look at the pic below on the left - that's the '89. Now look at the pic on the right - that's the '84. You can see where they shortened the wall beside the steps in the '89 (note the cut corner on the step) -to open up the galley. As mentioned - this also makes things really tight to remove the old Norcold.Yet another subtle difference between model years:

      [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797368=39444-15_black_front.jpg[/img]

      [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/797368=39445-17_84_in_place.jpg[/img]
      ________________
      1989 Bayliner 3270
      135hp (stock) -> 150hp (Injector pump mod) -> 170 hp (aftercoolers) Hino's
      MMSI 316 021 107
      Past Commander, Seymour Power and Sail Squadron
      Current instructor North Shore Power and Sail Squadron
      Rear Commodore BYC

      Comment


        #4
        Just want to drop a thank you on this thread... these directions were spot on for removing an old Norcold out of 3288. Saved me a bunch of money on removal and installation of a new one. Thanks again!
        Minnesota
        1989 Bayliner 3288
        First boat over 30'

        Comment


          #5
          Any chance of re posting the pics, the links don't work for me.
          1987 3270 135-Hino
          Foxtrap, Newfoundland

          Comment


            #6
            colbournee -- There are photos of the swap I did on the link below. It was in a 1983 3270. They may help.

            https://sites.google.com/site/lhboat...e/refrigerator

            100T MMC 2307794

            Comment


              #7
              Yes thanks I forgot about that post, I have your site bookmarked. Great info.
              1987 3270 135-Hino
              Foxtrap, Newfoundland

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