My Small Bowrider - Come see what I have done-gctid341692

[Guest]

I didn't want to post and loose this within the epic thread so here's a whole thread all about what I've done to my Bayliner 175. Iv'e also had to split into 3 posts because of the limit of 6 linked pictures per post.

We bought a used 175 about 6 months ago and since then I've been 'improving' it, well, at least making it better suited to the way that I use it. For those that love the factory standard look, exit the thread now before you're offended but for the others like me that love to change things, read on.

Here is the new look of the bow, the combined sidelight unit is gone and has been replaced by a bow roller and cam cleat, locking off the anchor is now so easy. Its so annoying that these models don't have a useful anchor attachment point on the bow.



The side lights have been moved to the sides by using high brightness clear lens LED units, rated to 2nm instead of the required 1nm.



The dash area has changed with the addition of a liquid filled compass (the location by the speed had the lowest magnetic interferrence but everywhere had some so its not ideal but its only a backup to GPS)

The GPS and depth sounder function is provided by a Lowrance Elite 5 DSI which unfortunately takes up the cup holder space and it has an NMEA 0183 cable to the Lowrance LVR-880 DSV VHF radio (with built in FM receiver that auto mutes when a signal breaks through the squelch setting)

There's also a coax cable and mount for a waterproof UHF hand which we use to chat with each other, even the kids have little handhelds so we can keep in touch while out having fun and not using marine VHF channels.

Finally in this shot, there's a high brightness LED fitted below the bilge pump switch (more about the bilge pump later).



The VHF and UHF antennas are mounted on each side in front of the windscreen

[Guest]

On the port side of the transom there's a heavy duty kicker motor mount unit, its bolted through to re-inforcing inside the transom for extra strength and stiffness, under thrust the top is under tension and the bottom under compression so the latter has a steel load spreader plate and rubber pad pushing against the transom. The mount plate extends down as I was planning additional re-inforcement but I don't think it's needed, it lifts out of the water when planing so its not an issue.





The reason for the extra strength on the mount is the 54Kg kicker motor in the form of a 30HP 2 stroke Tohatsu, fitted with a custom built 10.2" x 7" high thrust prop (professional de-pitch from the standard 10.2" x 8.3")

It's a big lump of extra weight but can drive us alonf at 6.1kn fully loaded and has the power to lift the bow nicely in heavier seas, the bow lift is actually more important than the speed for feeling safe with the kids on board.



2 stroke fuel is provided from a dedicated 5L tank on top of the main fule tank, its custom made using the filler/breather and outlet from a 25L tank. We have four other 5L cans with fuel and a bottle of 2 stroke oil to mix on the boat so the spare fuel can be used with either engine. The fule line runs through the top of the transom to keep things tidy.



On the back end of the boat I've fitted a couple of smart tabs and a Piranah 4 blade prop (we carry a complete spare hub and blade set in the boat). The smart tabe really help with getting on plane and make the boat more stable when running and the 4 blade prop is much smoother than a 3 blade and can hold plane at lower speed.



There's a 'prop guard' on the bottom of the skeg which is supposed to deflect objects away from the prop and extends the skeg a little too, we haven't done any prop damage since it was fitted but we probably wouldn't have even without it, its lightweight and low cost though so it can stay.

[Guest]

I've also fitted a fixed, high brightness stern light (2nm) and converted an LED all round light to be a masthead light so there won't be two white lights from behind, the original all round light was just too dim to feel safe with.

Also in this picture is the additional bilge pump outlet (by the ladder), the original hoise is still there but with the 500gph pump replaced with a 1000gph and this additional outlet has a Rule 2000gph pump connected. There's a separate float switch which operates both pumps together, as does the helm switch and either will activate the dashboard LED.



Inside, I've fitted a 12v power outlet on the passenger side



And an extension speaker for the VHF (and FM) radio under the passenger footwell



Under the driver's footwell there's an EPIRB and the front gunwhales around the bow have four foam 'noodles' inserted for extra bouyancy and storage so the kids can play with them if we go for a swim.



I've fitted clips on the driver's side for an extendable "Bridgenorth Bailer" boat hook (with built-in pump)



And I've replaced the standard back to back helm seat with a bucket seat with slide and pivot and fold up cushion for either standing room or a raised seating position. I didn't like the flex in the floor when it was directly mounted (when fully forward the pivot is close the the back of the seat with weight at the front) so I fitted an extra marine ply board to spread the load over the deck.

[Go Aweigh2452]

rc42a, Very nice workmanship and great planning of space... :cool

[dmcb]

Yes good work and well presented.

Doug

[Guest]

That looks great! I love looking at what others have done, gives me great ideas to follow suit!

Can you tell me more about your bilge pump? Mine does not have an automatic float switch and want to switch mine out...Also curious how you wired your bilge pump alterations...

Thanks!

[Guest]

wow that all looks awesome, great work!

[Guest]

Nice ...... just what this corner of the world needs is it's first new post to show the merits of planning in a small boat.

Looks like you have thought of everything space wise.

How about a second battery with all the electronics onboard :hypnotysed:

[Guest]

Hey all, thanks for the positive feedback, I'll provide more information about any of the modifications if requested.

The original Johnston 500gph bilge pump was replaced with a 1000gph model that used the same pipe fittings but I then came across this very interesting site and article http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm

This motivated me to get a 2000gph Rule pump and keep the 1000gph as the secondary, the main bilge pump pad under the engine now has the Rule pump which needed a larger diameter pipe and new outlet which I presented above the swim platform, well away from water level (see article). The Johnston pump was moved and epoxy used to hold its base to the hull inside the bilge. The pictures are not ideal but there's really not much space under there.



There's a rear facing float switch on the outlet side which will operate once a reasonable amount of water is in the bilge, again, there isn't a mounting pad so screws aren't an option so epoxy is used the hold its base to the hull. A good pre-cleaning with acetone is enough preparation, the epoxy holds onto it very well:



The wiring is as the diagram below.

Both pumps are wired in parallel to each other and the helm light, they are wired directly to the battery through a dedicated fuse and either the helm switch or the float switch can activate them, I was initially thinking about wiring in a buzzer too but I don't think its needed, if you're not sitting at the helm to see the LED the jets of water from the outlets are very noticable as it can move about a gallon per second.



Also, missed from the initial posts is the sound insulation, I managed to get hold of high grade mylar coated self adhesive insulation foam which has a layer of rubber through the center, I coated the underside of the engine hatch and everywhere else that I could in and around the engine bay, the difference is quite dramatic and its much more pleasant at cruising speeds now.





Finally, I had to chage the alternator belt a while ago and what a complete pain it is on the 3.0, what an utterly stupid piece of design work, anyway, I added a spare belt, tightly strapped to the engine mounts so that the next swapout will be much easier and could even be done out at see with a spanner and some cutters.

[Guest]

great idea with belt. dont know what they were thinking designing a mount that interferd with somthing as simple as a belt replacment.

[Guest]

tbkohl wrote:


How about a second battery with all the electronics onboard :hypnotysed:

Funnily enough, I've just removed a second battery, the original was a 100AHr standard marine battery (that needs distilled water top-ups) and I added a 120AHr maintenance free marine battery. No fancy dual charge controller, just wired in parallel, we only day trip and there's no high usage electrical equipment plus I do keep an eye on the voltmeter to be sure its charging when running.

I wanted the extra capacity for a Minn Kota 55lbs engine mount trolling motor, I originally thought it would be a 'get you home' solution so wanted more run-time but the max speed of 1.5 knots is not much use and with the low freeboard of these boats, maybe it would be on a small lake but its not an option on a large bay, especially if the seas increase much. Also, its no use for shalow water as the main drive needs to be fully down to use it so its been replaced by the 2 stroke kicker motor which fills those roles much better.

I'll try to find a picture of it but I've since removed the trolling motor and the original battery (I kept the newer maintenance free one), the total weight on the boat was getting too much and it was impacting performance when loaded, the first test of the lighter boat will be tomorrow as the wind reports are looking good for a morning trip across Moreton Bay (here is a great resource site for anyone else in the land down under: http://www.seabreeze.com.au/Graphs/qld.asp )

I'm thinking of getting the charging circuit for the Tohatsu 30HP engine so I'll have a way to recharge the main battery but the chances of running out of power are very low and still wouldn't leave us stranded.

[Chief_Alen]

I would have went with a 4 stroke maybe 4-5 range. It is for getting back safe after all. That way no need for extra tanks.

[dmcb]

A question about your kicker fuel tank.

Is it vented to the outside? It looks like the vent is in the top of the fill.

If so, I would question that because of fumes in the bilge.

Doug

[Guest]

Hi,

I noticed your trailer hitch has been modified to the more conventional type in Aust.

Did you do the mod or was it done by the PO?

[Guest]

Hi Chief Alen. there's another thread of mine about kicker motor size selection in the Technical Discussion forum, I tried a 4 stroke 6HP but it was only good for 3.5kn and had no ability to lift the bow and the low freeboard on the 175 makes that very scary in certain seas. The 30HP 2 stroke is twice the weight but 5 times the power, it can deliver twice the speed and produce a substantial bow lift as it tries to climb out of the hole (can't quite make it will all of us on board but I haven't tested with just me, it may even plane the boat). Mixing 2 stroke is easy in 5L batches, I have four other 5L cans with spare 4 stroke fuel on board and 2 stroke oil in a bottle with a dispenser. A 4 stroke would have been nice but for 54Kg I'd have struggled to get a 15HP and I wanted as much power as possibe for as little weight as possible which meant 2 stroke was the only option.

Hi dmcb, the 2 stroke can does vent into the bilge area when its in use (its a manual air valve on the filler cap), if the main engine is running as well there's plenty of air flow through the bilge but if its not there could be a fume build up but we always operate the blower before starting the main engine. The air valve is only opened when the 2 stroke is in use and its purpose is to allow air into the fuel can, very few fumes find their way out and I haven't noticed any more fuel odour in the bilge than there was before. I have a habit of sniffing near the blower outlet vent when I turn it on just to know what fumes were building up.

Hi Danny, the trailer hitch is exactly as I received it, its a 2002 Karavan trailer imported from the USA, it has the standard over-run brake mechanism and I had to replace the main bolts that attach the hitch to the trailer frame as they were corroded and I also had to modify the lighting to meet Queensland regulations but I don't know much more about it.