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2005 Bayliner 205 electrical gremlin.

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    2005 Bayliner 205 electrical gremlin.

    Hello all. Newbie from Central PA (but currently on a Lakeshore in Maine).

    I'm working my father-in-law's 2005 Bayliner 205.

    It has an odd intermittent electrical gremlin. Periodically, upon cranking the engine, all electrical power will disappear. Before cranking the engine, all accessories function. As soon as the starter engages, everything dies and voltage drops to zero. Any peripheral wired directly to the battery still works, including trim, which is on its own heavy circuit. In order to get voltage back, the battery has to be unhooked for 20+ seconds.

    Upon isolating and tracing this circuit, it goes straight to the starter through a fusable link via heavy gauge wire. A wire then goes to the alternator and a separate wire goes to the 50amp circuit breaker. The circuit breaker has never popped.

    Thoughts: I would think bad ground except for the resetting nature of it. Once it dies, it'll still be dead, even days later, until the battery is unhooked and reconnected.

    The resetting situation makes me think it's a bad circuit breaker but I know nothing about these marine breakers. Could this be the cause?

    Thank you.
    Jesse
    ​​​​




    #2
    The 50amp engine breaker will not reset automatically. Is the boat equipped with a battery selector switch and if so does turning it off and on resolve the issue? I cannot think of anything that disconnecting the battery would reset on this boat. Have you measured the battery voltage at the battery when trying to start? Measure to see if power at the 50 amp breaker is present after fault? Remove and clean al battery connections (positive and negative)?

    You need to use a volt meter to see where power is being lost at to isolate the source.
    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

    Mike

    Comment


      #3
      Does leaving it hooked up for days after such episode do anything to the battery in terms of heavily discharging it?

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks Mike.

        That's my thought as well, concerning the breaker. I was just wandering if it could be failing/malfunctioning and ending up in a psuedo tripped position.

        No battery selector switch.

        New battery as my thinking was that the other one was bad. Clean terminals. Voltage at battery never drops appreciably.

        Once the failure happens and everything on the main power circuit is dead, the battery is still capable of handling load as the trim still works.


        So, to try and clarify further:

        ​​​​​​At first, all electricals function. Bilge, blower, lights, trim, etc. 12.5v present everywhere, with and without the above loads.

        Turn key to on, buzzer buzzes and still have 12.5v everywhere.

        Turn key to crank, starter engages, engine turns about 45 degrees and everything stops. The buzzer doesn't even buzz. No blower, lights, nothing. 12.5 v still present everywhere on main circuit, including both sides of the circuit breaker. At this point, any load, no matter how small, causes a voltage drop to nearly zero. The "key on" buzzer can't even buzz.

        Unhook positive cable. Reinstall cable. Back in business.

        This doesn't always happen. We had 8 failed attempts in a row 2 days ago(every time the battery cable is R&R, the power is back. It just fails again immediately sometimes.). The last 7 starts had no issues.

        Comment


          #5
          On my 205, I just replaced this solenoid that was causing my random start/no start issues and that relieved some of the drain on the battery from constantly cranking. I don't know if it would help, but its only $27.

          https://www.mercruiserparts.com/96158t-solenoid

          Item #21 on the diagram:
          https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/.../31839/8182/40


          2003 Runabout 205BR (bowrider) Merc 5.0, Alpha 1 Gen 2

          Comment


          • Nauti_Mike
            Nauti_Mike commented
            Editing a comment
            That is the slave soleniod which if bad will keep 5he engine from cranking but other systems will work unlike what the OP is describing.

          #6
          So you cleaned and check for tightness at the battery but what about the other ends; starter connection for positive and block for negative. Since all electrical items stop working I’m thinking you have a bad/ loose negative connection. Items such as blower are not power by engine harness so a common negative makes the most sense.
          1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

          Mike

          Comment


            #7
            This sounds like a poor battery cable connection or internally corroded battery cable. You can use a pair of jumper cables to simulate new battery cables to test my theory. Connect one end to the battery posts both + & - and the other to the engine block negative stud (or similar) and the starters main positive lug.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #8
              It's possible too that your ignition switch has gone buggered. When the issue occurs try to jump the terminals and see if it starts. That will ket you know if the start side of the switch is bad. I thought mine was starter but it was the switch. Worth a try.

              Comment


                #9
                You say there is no battery selector switch. Can you provide a battery circuit diagram or provide a detailed description of what cable connects to what? Do you at least have a battery on/off switch? How do you turn power off to the boat and engine?
                Retired, computer expert / executive
                Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
                Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
                D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey
                [email protected]
                [email protected]

                Comment


                • Nauti_Mike
                  Nauti_Mike commented
                  Editing a comment
                  111111111 try to start 000000000

                #10
                My 86' i installed a selector switch didn't come from the factory with one.

                This could be a corroded ground problem, start at the battery and work your way forward every connection, don't forget the main barrel plug, my money is on that also.

                Came back to edit neg. cable remove and clean.
                Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                Manalapan N.J

                Comment


                  #11
                  Thanks guys. I'm waiting for the failure to occur again. So far I'm 13 starts with no problem. Upon inspection, I'm not finding any indication of bad wiring. Visual and resistance testing show no issues.

                  I will definitely check the harness plug.

                  It's not the ignition switch as I lose the bilge, lights, blower, etc. These don't run through the switch.

                  I'll try and post the diagram at some point. I don't have it on my phone.

                  Very simple wiring.

                  Battery -> Starter lug -> 90amp fuse -> alternator(dead end) and, separately, 50amp circuit breaker -> main harness power and, separately, slave solenoid -> starter solenoid.

                  Everything goes dead from somewhere before the circuit breaker. Could the 90 amp fuse be only partially burnt?

                  Comment


                  • builderdude
                    builderdude commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Look at the negative connection at the starboard side of the engine block below the exhaust manifold. As suggested previously, examine the main barrel connector for poor contacts or corrosion, everything runs through that connector except the trim pump.

                  #12
                  90 amp block fuse on the starter? I’d think it’d either be good to go or blown🤭
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #13
                    A particularly burnt fuse would not be able to handle the current and will burn up completely.
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #14
                      Trying to explain why removing the battery +ve for 20 mins would affect anythingI wonder if there is a broken unintentional connection somewhere that remains powered and continues to heat up and remains in that state until the battery connection is removed so current stops; this may allow the broken component to cool down and the bad circuit is removed. Due to high current during cranking the component would heat up rapidly and may form a highly resistive short circuit that requires several minutes to cool down and assume its previous position. If so, a switch or a circuit connector should be the culprit. If condition repeats, feel the temperature of various components along the way.

                      You realize that all of the above is just speculative analysis, yes?
                      Retired, computer expert / executive
                      Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
                      Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
                      D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey
                      [email protected]
                      [email protected]

                      Comment


                      • Nauti_Mike
                        Nauti_Mike commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Yes and plausible as I have see it with electronic things but not in a boat and not with such widespread impact. However nothing surprises me anyone when it comes to MES; mysterious electronic $$it.

                      #15
                      Yes, disconnecting the battery for 20+ seconds fixes it every time. As others have said, this is the confusing part.

                      I'm waiting for another failure so I can try the jumper cable suggestion in order to rule in or out any particular cable/connection. I've inspected all suggested cables and connections with no luck.

                      Comment

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