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Need Advice on 1987 Capri 1900 Replacing Floor ( Bow section )

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    #31
    Can I cut a 2"x6" x 12 ft Doug fir lengthwise into 1"x6" X 12 feet and use that for stringers ? ( I can buy a 2x6x12feet at Home depot for $10 vs. 2 Oak Boards for $90 )

    Comment


      #32
      Yes, but you are going to loose the saw curf and come out about 1/16 or a bit more undersized. That will probably work to your advantage because you could wrap the board with wetted out matt then shove it in the channel, then clamp the sides of the channel while the resin cures.
      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
      MMSI 367770440
      1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
      Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

      Comment


        #33
        And you really should use clear lumber as in zero knots. Won’t find that for 10 bucks
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #34
          So I took the old floor sections and put them together inside the hull to see if i can mark the edges of the plywood. When I put the sections in I realized that when they replaced the floor before they only replaced the main sections but they did not remove and replace the Bow section ( Starting from the front Glass to the tip of the bow ) and the Stern section deck under the engine / transom . Also the old plywood was not even distance from the hull on the edges. So I'm not sure if I can use the old floor as a template for the new deck. Look at photos Click image for larger version

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          Before Photos ( below )



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          Comment


            #35
            Great pictures! You probably can’t use most of the old boards as templates, but you definitely can as guides. I suggest starting with getting the stringers put together. Establish what in aerospace is called waterlines by placing a board on the old plywood as you showed it in the pictures and make a mark on the inside of the hull. Do this every foot or so the length of the stringer. You are going to use them to set the height of the stringers.
            The dummy’s you have in as stringers under the plywood show me that who ever did the last floor repair didn’t care to do the greatest job, but the hull is good so no worries. Make up your stringers using the 2” fir we talked about earlier and dry fit them to see where they come out.
            P/C Pete
            Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
            1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
            Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
            1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
            MMSI 367770440
            1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
            Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

            Comment


              #36
              Now for some old school building. Take some string, tape, acetone and a glue gun, clean the surface real well with the acetone and let it dry. Take one end of a chunk of string and tape (secure) it to the best guess you have for the top of the plywood deck, then do the same on the opposite side
              Since the old floor sections was not helpful to determine the correct shape, Level and height of the stingers I decided to use the Pcpete method by using a hot glue gun to attache a string from the stern/transom deck marking to the Bow deck marking and ran a string right next to the stinger skins. Ones I got the correct level I was able to make dummy stingers from pine boards and now ready to buy the stinger wood and to cut out the final .​​​​​​stingers. Thanks Pcpete








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                #37
                Anything I can do to make a mess.
                P/C Pete
                Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                MMSI 367770440
                1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                Comment


                  #38
                  As far as Oak for stringers. Is Red Oak is OK ? ( I know white is better but red much less expensive )

                  Comment


                    #39
                    The split 2” fir will be fine too. In fact I’d be more likely to do that because I’d have a little space for fiberglass on each side. However, Encapsulated it will be just fine. If you were building a wood tender like my brother is, you’d want white. He got this beautiful chunk of white oak and had the keel section almost done, and on the last cut.....you can see it coming.....he messed up on a measurement and ruined the part. He can use some of it for other parts, but he lost some expensive wood and three days work. I told him it was measure twice a cut once, not the other way around.
                    btw, I saw a product from Jamestown Distributors you want to look at. The background is there’s a common filler called thickso just like body filler is commonly called bondo. It’s thickened resin you use fo filler, comes in a paint type can and you add whatever catalyst you need. This stuff is called Total Boat Thicko and I saw it on a YouTube called tips from a shipwright. It’s interesting because it comes in a caulking type tube, fits in a standard caulking gun and is mixed as it comes out of the tip. He used it to install a stem for an old sailboat, but I’d see you using it starting with the stringers. Once the caps are on and you are ready to install the floor you’d run a bead or two down the top of the stringer instead of something like liquid nails. Here’s the Total Boat page http://www.totalboat.com/?gclid=EAIa...SAAEgKMbvD_BwE I found a bunch of their products on amazon with free shipping for Prime members. Even though the shipwright is working on wood boats, a lot of the assembly processes can cross over to your boat.
                    P/C Pete
                    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                    1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                    MMSI 367770440
                    1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                    Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                    Comment


                      #40
                      After an extensive search I finally "Scored" some nice premium Doug Fir 1X6 X 12 ft . Had to drive out 40 miles. ( I think it would have been easier for me to score heroin then Doug Fir. )



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                        #41
                        Also known as unubtainium. Great looking boards though.
                        P/C Pete
                        Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                        1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                        Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                        1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                        MMSI 367770440
                        1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                        Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Beautiful stuff
                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Making Progress, I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel. The stingers are in and ready for resin and glass. The plywood is all cut to size and ready for resin and glass.

                            Now a questions for the experts.

                            Should I first build the Bow section, the structure under the dashboard. and the Stern section by the outboard. and then resin and glass everything or should I first resin and glass the floor and then build the other strictures ?

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                            Comment


                              #44
                              For myself, I glass the stringers in, after the resin kicks (aka first stage of cure usually a couple of hours after application) I refit the floor then coat the plywood with a mix of 50% resin and catalyst and 50% acetone and soak in as much as will take, especially the ends. Then I’d run some thickso over the top of the stringers and where the plywood meets the fiberglass, then glass it down. Be sure to work out as much of the air bubbles as you can, often adding a bit more resin helps. It doesn’t matter, really, if you start in the front or the back, but I think about where you may need to make adjustments for the final fit.
                              Its looking really good!
                              P/C Pete
                              Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                              1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                              Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                              1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                              MMSI 367770440
                              1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                              Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Pcpete View Post
                                For myself, I glass the stringers in, after the resin kicks (aka first stage of cure usually a couple of hours after application) I refit the floor then coat the plywood with a mix of 50% resin and catalyst and 50% acetone and soak in as much as will take, especially the ends. Then I’d run some thickso over the top of the stringers and where the plywood meets the fiberglass, then glass it down. Be sure to work out as much of the air bubbles as you can, often adding a bit more resin helps. It doesn’t matter, really, if you start in the front or the back, but I think about where you may need to make adjustments for the final fit.
                                Its looking really good!
                                I'm using West System Resin . They don't state in their instructions anything about 50% acetone mix. Also what is "thickso" is that like the West System 406 Colloidal Silica Adhesive Filler ? And should I build out the rest of the structures or first coat and glass the floor ? ( I'm referring to the structures in the photos bellow )




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