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Winterizing a frozen boat.

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    Winterizing a frozen boat.

    Very long story short, I didn’t have the time to winterize my boat or have it winterized. It’s a 2006 225 with a merc 5.0 and a alpha one gen 2. I finally got the time and tried yesterday. The water pump was frozen solid. I fired up the engine a couple times to free it up and it didn’t help. Today however I got it running and the pump was free. Unfortunately the carb is seized up so it only idles at 2000 rpms. Yes, I’m having a rough time with the boat. Well anyway, the risers got screaming hot so I shut it down. The boats thermostat didn’t move at all. As if I never fired it up. My next step is to put a small space heater in the engine compartment to heat it up and hopefully that will get coolant to flow. My question is, did I destroy the water pump in the outdrive By running it frozen ? If that’s the case I’m not sure what to do.

    #2
    I'd get it to a heated repair shop before it's too late.
    Jeff & Tara
    (And Ginger too)
    Lake Havasu City, AZ

    2000 Bayliner 3388
    "GetAway"
    Cummins 4bta 250s

    In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

    Comment


      #3
      Sounds like she's raw water cooled and has already been frozen
      So it didn't pump any water from the drive either. The impeller on your Alpha is located in the lower unit, yes it could have ground itself to bits if things were still semi frozen. Exhaust components getting that hot likely toasted the exhaust shutters also. You could pull the drive and store it in a heated space until you can get it checked out/repaired. If you get the engine bay warmed up enough you could then drain everything but freeze damage may have already occurred.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        That’s what I fear. I’m thinking I should hear it up and winterize it the old fashioned way. I bought a rig that hooks up to the muffs and you can switch from water to antifreeze by opening a valve. Pretty slick setup but I think I’ll have to shelf it until next year.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Chapman View Post
          That’s what I fear. I’m thinking I should hear it up and winterize it the old fashioned way. I bought a rig that hooks up to the muffs and you can switch from water to antifreeze by opening a valve. Pretty slick setup but I think I’ll have to shelf it until next year.
          Unless the t-stat is open this kit will not work as no antifreeze will pass through the engine. Remove all drains, remove t-stat housing, pour antifreeze until it’s coming out the drains.

          note drain holes may be clogged and poking them with a wire is required.
          1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

          Mike

          Comment


            #6
            This is the down side of all raw water cooled sterndrives. You forget once and you are in trouble. Get it into a heated shop, let it thaw out if needed use a safe heater in the engine compartment. Thaw it out and then try hooking up the muffs and starting it. This will allow you to see if you are getting water circulation through the engine by watching under the transom mount for water exhausting from the bottom. If you see no water after about 10-20 sec then shut it off. You will have to then replace the impeller in the drive before doing any more testing. After that you are looking for pushed out core plugs, wet cracks on the manifolds or block. Why I am getting an outboard boat for my next one. These engines should have all been closed cooled from the factory, raw water cooling is just a real pain on inboards. They were designed to be closed cooled by GM and the engine marinizers just cheaped out on making raw water cooling standard.
            88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
            98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
            07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

            Long Island Sound Region

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jeffw View Post
              I'd get it to a heated repair shop before it's too late.
              +1 - absolute best answer at this point.
              Northport NY

              Comment


                #8
                You are asking about 2 issues......how screwed are you by freeze damage, and how to properly winterize going forward. Unless you want a springtime headache, I would follow the advice above, and have it checked out and repaired now, and let the shop winterize it so they "own" any springtime surprises.

                For future winterizations, I used to use that Camco kit with the valves quite effectively. But you do need to make sure that the thermostat is open, or removed (optimal). I could tell by my temp gauge when the t-stat opened...but then when finished I would open up one of the engine block drains to make sure that what came out was bright pink. It always was.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Focus 1 is to evacuate water from block and manifolds. As stated getting into heated shop would be ideal to get it thawed if that's possible. Otherwise the engine bay heater may work but will take a while im sure. Once the thaw happens you need to open up both block drain plugs and both manifold plugs....4 total...as said probe drain holes with wire to make sure not plugged.

                  focus 2 is to get her checked.... hooefully no cracks. It may not have all been frozen so keep fingers crossed. That impeller is gone likely... regardless it has to be changed.
                  2008 H210SS Four Winns
                  Volvo Penta 5.7 GISX
                  Prior: 1997 2050SS Bayliner
                  Brad / Texas Gulf Coast

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Been there done that. Work sent me away from home before I got a chance to winterize and winter came early and had a week long freeze while gone. I needed a new motor come spring. The boat had a crummy 2 barrel sbc truck engine in the boat that a “mechanic” had put in...so I was looking for an excuse to replace it anyway. About $5,000 for a new 320hp 5.7 from Michigan motorz.
                    Anyway, I think you have a couple options. Keep a heater in the bilge for the rest of the winter to prevent any further damage, (if any damage has occurred), or take it to a shop now.
                    I would take it to the shop now if you have the means because if you wait till spring, most places I’ve lived it’s months to get any thing fixed as that is when EVERYONE takes their boat in where boating is seasonal. Also, if you need a new engine or something major, might as well bite the bullet and get it done now when shops in winter areas have nothing to do. Your boat will be in the shop all summer if you find out in spring you need a new engine.
                    Esteban
                    Vancouver, BC
                    Former Bayliners 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yeah the block is cracked. It warmed up outside so I was able to winterize finally and saw water dumping out the side of the engine. It is winterized now so there won’t be further damage. I checked the oil out after running it for a half hour and no water got in so I may go for the cheap ghetto belzona or marinetex repair for this season coming up. The 5.7 swap is enticing though. Problem is I just bought a new house and I want to do some projects there and I can’t do both this year.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        And as far as that rig I bought for winterizing it, I just pulled the thermostat out. It worked well.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          If the crack is external on the block and you’ve verified there’s no water entering internally into cylinders or oil you may Buy some time with a JB weld repair. I’ve never done it myself but many have had success doing so. You’ll definitely want to keep a close eye on everything once you start using the boat again to ensure there won’t be other issues.
                          Good luck
                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The outer water jacket wall is not a big part of the blocks structure so you can JB Weld it, sounds like it's a crack and not a piece that popped off which is good for you.
                            1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                            Mike

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The cheapo fix is okay as a get you home, and a time extender on a car, but I'd never leave the dock with a split block. Now, are you sure it's the iron and not a freeze plug?
                              If indeed it is the block, you could find a good slightly used or even new block and use everything except the rings and bearings. It could be a cost effective solution. You could also have the rotating components balanced and build it to suit you.
                              P/C Pete
                              Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                              1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                              Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                              1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                              MMSI 367770440
                              1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                              Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

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