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    Converting to Electric Fuel Pump

    When converting from mechanical to electric fuel pump, safety requires wiring to the oil pressure switch. Problem is that my 1987 Bowrider 2.3L Ford inboard engine only has an oil sending unit. Not sure I can use this for proper wiring. Comments welcome on how to proceed.

    Actual problem I'm having is that the thing runs great for about 20 minutes and then chokes out. Can't start it until I open the fuel/water filter and reseal it. Then I can only run at idle, limping back to the marina.

    #2
    You will have to put a tee in and get a switch that closes when there is oil pressure. Both switches will be on the tee.
    And you will have to put a bypass wire to the pump from the starter.
    I sure that a switch that is n/o will work fine as long as the closing pressure is about 8psi.
    Good luck.
    Don
    1995 Maxum 2400 SCR LUNA DE MIEL
    1988 Bayliner 2455 (sold)
    1976 Tahiti 16.5 I/O (sold)
    10 ft livingston (lost in fire )
    1987 18ft. Seaswirl cuddy (lost in fire)
    "Is it better to be on a boat thinking about God, or be in church thinking about boating?"

    Comment


      #3
      Some things to look at:
      Do you see fuel in the fuel pumps overflow tube leading to the air horn of the carburetor?
      Is the choke plate wide open or stuck half way?
      Have you verified the fuel tank is not contaminated with water or debris?
      Is the fuel tank vent clear?
      Have you checked/cleaned/replaced the anti syphon valve at the tank?
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX" '93 2556
      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
      The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      My Misc. Projects
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        A pressure switch can be plumbed in in to the same port the sending unit is in..
        just get a "run T" fitting, or a T fitting with a nipple fitting so it will.screw into the block, then screw the sender and switch into the open ports of the "T"...


        NU LIBERTE'
        Salem, OR

        1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
        5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
        N2K equipped throughout..
        2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
        2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
        '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
        Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rooky Bayrider View Post
          When converting from mechanical to electric fuel pump, safety requires wiring to the oil pressure switch. Problem is that my 1987 Bowrider 2.3L Ford inboard engine only has an oil sending unit. Not sure I can use this for proper wiring. Comments welcome on how to proceed.
          That is correct. What you have is a oil pressure gauge sending unit, not a switch.


          Actual problem I'm having is that the thing runs great for about 20 minutes and then chokes out. Can't start it until I open the fuel/water filter and reseal it. Then I can only run at idle, limping back to the marina.
          Unless I'm misunderstanding you, it's unlikely that an electric fuel pump will solve this.
          Don77 is correct. If there is not a second oil pressure port, you can T into the existing.
          You will need a 2 terminal N/O (normally open) LOP (low oil pressure) switch.

          I would suggest using a 5 pin relay to power the fuel pump.
          The N/O LOP switch will trigger the relay when the required oil pressure is achieved.
          Prior to oil pressure, the "start-bi-pass" circuit will trigger the relay. (the relay ensures no feed-back)

          As for the "start-bi-pass" circuit, you may see an "R" terminal on the starter motor solenoid. If so, you can trigger the relay with this circuit.
          If not, you can come from the "S" terminal, and trigger the relay from that.

          Or...... you can install a Momentary Helm Switch and circuit that will trigger the relay. Key word "momentary"!

          I like this system in that you can power the pump and prime the carburetor prior to cranking the engine. This will help extend starter motor and battery life.


          Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by builderdude View Post
            Some things to look at:
            Do you see fuel in the fuel pumps overflow tube leading to the air horn of the carburetor?
            Is the choke plate wide open or stuck half way?
            Have you verified the fuel tank is not contaminated with water or debris?
            Is the fuel tank vent clear?
            Have you checked/cleaned/replaced the anti syphon valve at the tank?
            I don't think the fuel pump is the issue and agree with Dave on other potential sources of the issue.
            1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

            Mike

            Comment


              #7
              Agreed with the above, there are a number of other things that can cause your symptoms than a fuel pump failure. If you saw fuel in the overflow hose, that would be a definite sign of fuel pump failure. I would discourage you to switch from the mechanical pump to the electric, since experience has proven (to me at least) that mechanical pumps are extremely reliable, they rarely fail. I just replaced my OE one that was 30 years old because there was a small amount of fuel in the yellow overflow hose. The first thing you should be doing is dumping the fuel in your water separating fuel filter out and see what's in it. If its clean fuel then good. Go on to the anti siphon valve and fuel tank vent. If they are good, measure fuel pump pressure when cranking the engine with the ignition disabled. If its good, then what's left is the carb. May need a carb rebuild. I'd be interested to see what your fuel looks like.....Here's mine....

              88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

              Long Island Sound Region

              Comment


                #8
                I'm a acumen's razor kind of guy. What is the simplest item causing the problem? A marine mechanical fuel pump is a relatively low cost risk item in the throwing parts at it method of problem solving. Installing an electric fuel pump in a boat has several challenges, all electrical. I've built a lot of stuff, jury rigged a bunch more and it fix what's there.
                P/C Pete
                Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                MMSI 367770440

                Comment


                  #9
                  I agree that adding an electric pump is not the answer. All the other items should be verified. I would stick with the mechanical pump even if it has to be replaced. Along with all the electrical modifications bear in mind that electric pumps draw poorly but can provide pressure on the output very well. For this reason they are always mounted close to the fuel tank or even in the tank. This may or may not be difficult to achieve on your particular model.
                  Gibraltar, Mi.
                  1986- 3870- Hino 175's
                  1988 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
                  14' Zodiac Bay Runner

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah, my opine is as green as a leprechauns butt, however, why change the system over from what has worked for many?
                    I just had to replace my fuel pump, wasn't too bad, however, you have to "shim" it just right to get the proper fuel pressure.
                    Too much, or too little, and ya still will have issue with fuel delivery.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Island Eddie View Post
                      Yeah, my opine is as green as a leprechauns butt, however, why change the system over from what has worked for many?
                      I just had to replace my fuel pump, wasn't too bad, however, you have to "shim" it just right to get the proper fuel pressure.
                      Too much, or too little, and ya still will have issue with fuel delivery.
                      No shimming with the 2.3L the OP has.
                      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                      Mike

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Oh....
                        i wasn’t so lucky.
                        directions woulda been nice, but they did not exsist anywhere.
                        just match the thickness of the OEM one, and I guess call it good

                        Comment


                          #13
                          https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ca...fuel+pump,6256

                          https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m60565

                          now if you need a fuel pump, the OE listed on the Crowley marine site is like 359 or something (absurd) these pumps were Carter design pumps that are available from other sources but you have to make sure the application is right. These are the same thing, less than half.
                          88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                          98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                          07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                          Long Island Sound Region

                          Comment


                          • builderdude
                            builderdude commented
                            Editing a comment
                            +1 purchased my replacement marine fuel pump from Summit, think it was around 75 just needed a paint job
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