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    Question on winterizing 3.0 Mercruiser-gctid826279

    So after I run antifreeze through the motor with a Camco flushing / winterization kit, should I drain the block and exhaust manifold (the 2 blue tubes) or just leave it?

    #2
    Well, if you disconnect the 2 blue hoses after you run the antifreeze through the system, the antifreeze will simply drain out. If you've not run the antifreeze through yet, you could disconnect the blue hoses first, drain all the water out of the system (to be 100% sure its all out), then run antifreeze through until it comes out the telltale.
    Terry
    1999 Bayliner 3388
    Twin Cummins 4BTA
    Fisherman, Cruiser, Boaticus-enthusiasticus-maximus
    Member Royal Victoria Yacht Club

    Comment


      #3
      Make sure to warm the engine up before running the antifreeze through it to ensure the t-stat is open otherwise the engine will not get antifreeze through it.

      I warm up the engine then drain the water then run antifreeze through it. The West Marine stuff is supposed to have anti corrosion protection.
      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

      Mike

      Comment


        #4
        The easiest way to use antifreeze, is to simply drain everything making sure to poke every drain, and then replace the plugs. Next I disconnect the big hose from the circ pump to the thermo housing at the thermo housing and fill with -100 AF till it comes out the thermo housing neck. Then the engine is full, just re-connect the hose, no need to remove thermostat. Next disconnect the feed hose for the exhaust manifold and fill it with the same stuff till it runs out the exhaust. Re-connect hose. Lastly disconnect the raw water intake hose at the thermo housing. Make sure the outdrive is all the way down, this helps draining. Point the hose down in the bilge to drain. Then hold it up, put a funnel in it and fill with -100 AF till it runs out the outdrive water intakes. Re-connect the hose. That way you reduce corrosion by having good -100 AF in the engine and exhaust, but do not have to suck it up the exhaust, which can cause problems. Far easier this way. Don't use the camco kit, if the impeller won't suck up the AF it can burn the impeller. Plus unless you drain the engine first, or remove the thermostat, you may still have raw water in the engine and that can cause freeze damage. Those kits are really only good for engines with closed cooling. Just do it my way above, much safer and this is in both Merc's and OMC's shop manuals. No short cuts. And if you are going to drain the AF out, after putting it in, don't bother!

        You drain to prevent freeze damage

        You add AF purely to reduce corrosion damage.



        I suspect Rick will be along shortly to also warn you of the risks of these kits. Like I said, they are not good for raw water cooled engines. Only closed cooled and even then, since AF is more dense than water, if the impeller will not suck it in, it can burn the impeller.
        88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
        98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
        07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

        Long Island Sound Region

        Comment


          #5
          I use this guide, except for the oil change section (I have the oil drain tube).

          I leave the antifreeze in until the Spring.

          https://darsenginerepair.weebly.com/...-cylinder.html
          2015 Bayliner 175
          3.0L, Alpha 1
          Paradise, NL, Canada

          Comment


            #6
            "Nauti Mike" post=826289 wrote:
            Make sure to warm the engine up before running the antifreeze through it to ensure the t-stat is open otherwise the engine will not get antifreeze through it.
            I second that, it takes forever for the T-stat to open in a raw water cooled 3.0L, especially if this is done in cold weather.

            One question. If the system can be drained by the 2 blue hoses, can one also fill it up with antifreeze by the same hoses using a funnel? Easier than disconnect the big hose from the circ pump and raw water intake hose + feed hose that have been doing in the past?
            Bayliner 2556 1990 project

            Comment


              #7
              "C-NUMB" post=826537 wrote:
              "Nauti Mike" post=826289 wrote:
              Make sure to warm the engine up before running the antifreeze through it to ensure the t-stat is open otherwise the engine will not get antifreeze through it.
              I second that, it takes forever for the T-stat to open in a raw water cooled 3.0L, especially if this is done in cold weather.

              One question. If the system can be drained by the 2 blue hoses, can one also fill it up with antifreeze by the same hoses using a funnel? Easier than disconnect the big hose from the circ pump and raw water intake hose + feed hose that have been doing in the past?
              I'm not fimilar enough with that system to give a good answer but I would think it would be painstakingly slow and not ensure the entire system is full.
              1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

              Mike

              Comment


                #8
                On mine, I never tried filling through the blue drain hoses. But seeing they are at a low point, not sure if that would work.. The AF would have to run upwards into the block.

                The pour method is the only sure way of getting the AF in there. I've done it many times and it's real easy. No running the motor, no guessing. Try it and I'll bet you'll say, "well that was simple".

                Mentioned already, but.......this is what I do.....First, pull the blue hoses and drain the block and manifold of water. Put the blue hoses back in their holder. Removing the hoses off the thermostat housing only takes a couple minutes. Then simply pour in the AF. Block is full when you can't pour anymore in. Manifolds you will hear the AF run out the prop outlet. Pour a bit down the feed line, and hear it come out the drive. Clamp hoses back onto housing. Done.
                2016 4.5L MPI

                Comment


                  #9
                  "CraigM" post=826531 wrote:
                  I use this guide, except for the oil change section (I have the oil drain tube).

                  I leave the antifreeze in until the Spring.

                  https://darsenginerepair.weebly.com/...-cylinder.html
                  Hello, I read thru this guide a couple of times and have a question??

                  It has one fogging the engine after doing all of the draining and adding anti-freeze. Ok so if I do that draining & such and then connect muffs to start and then fog the engine am I not replacing all of my antifreeze with plain water all over again? I'm confused now!

                  Am I missing something?

                  thanks

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hi Sarah I don't think the link is suggesting performing these steps in the order they are covered but just how to perform each. Fog the engine before draining and filling with antifreeze is the correct order.
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ahhh, ok

                      that's better!!

                      thanks

                      Comment


                        #12
                        More engines have been lost using a jug to feed the raw water intake with anti-freeze.

                        First if you have blue hoses hooked up to your mani and block remove them from the block and mani.

                        With the hoses attached it is impossible to poke the drain holes with a stiff wire to keep the hole open with rust blocking it as the hole drains. What happens is with a blocked hole there is water left in.

                        Get 2 of these in the image below for a 3.0l engine install them after you drain.

                        Finally for a 3.0l if you add a half to a cup of anti-freeze to after draining to the u hose, the short hose to the mani and the long hose that comes in from the transom, you will be good to go.

                        Leave the drive fully down the battery disconnected, and the bilge plug remove and the bow raised, your done.,

                        Use a jug to feed the raw water pickup, we will be reading about a frozen engine, water in the engine or casting plugs popped, or cracked mani's, and cracked blocks.




                        Attached files

                        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                        Manalapan N.J

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi, ya Chief

                          Do you mean to get rid of the blue hoses completely and install those little spigots instead?

                          I saw this on youtube and was going to do it this way - what say you to this method? (please)

                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmlXeqT-xyU

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Glad to see your back Sarah.

                            Remove the hose off the mani, allow it to drain, poke the hole with a stiff wire like the little flags in lawns showing a treatment, they are perfect.

                            Then drain the block, remove the hose if the block poke the hole, keep,poking it.

                            Then install the do dad in the pic.

                            Next time you want to drain you turn the little handle, poke, and shut the handle.

                            You could change the engine oil, and filter.

                            Drive also.

                            Me I ran the carb dry with the muffs on, pull the fuel hose off the tank or filter.

                            I didn't fog. Never a fould plug.
                            Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                            1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                            '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                            Manalapan N.J

                            Comment


                              #15
                              warm up engine with muffs run 4 gallons automotive anti freeze thru engine shut off engine leave anti freeze in for anti corrosion protection( fog engine just before shutting down engine if you want to)my experience with the pink RV and marine anti freeze it does not provide enough corrosion protection after my third year using it I had water in my outdrive and when i paid the 1000 dollar repair bill i was asked about type of antifreeze I was using for winter storage and of course the repair shop said big mistake using anything other than automotive antifreeze does not have enough protection
                              1988 flybridge trophy bayliner 2556 ,mercury 5.7 lit. OMC cobra out drive 76 hrs. on new package,
                              located in ketchikan ak,name DOMINION

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