2017 Bayliner VR5 / Adding Mercury VesselView Module-gctid817867

[freechip]

I've been having issues finding the right prop for my setup or type of boating and part of the reason for my issue is I believe the OEM RPM gauge is off by 400-1,000 rpm. The large difference is because I think the offset is percentage meaning the higher RPM the greater the increase in offset. Here's what is going on that is my issue.

Info on engine itself says 650RPM at neutral idle (non adjustable) and 625 in gear at idle. (or the other way around but not super important for this right up). My RPM gauge however shows almost 1,000rpm at idle. Engine specs in manual list 4,400 - 4,800 WOT (recommended) and rev limiter at 4,950. I figure I would see for myself what the manual says will happen when rev limiter is reached.

I was able to reach +/- 6,000 RPM without reaching rev limiter BUT GPS confirmed speeds are indicating the speeds that this vessel is supposed to be doing and has been posted by many boat reviewers.

So I'm thinking that at idle my RPM may be off by 400 but at WOT my RPM gauge is off by +/- 1,000.

Anyways this bring me to the topic of this thread Mercury's VesselView Module After reading up on it and reading many posts/comments and watching videos I decided to pull the trigger on this item for its many benefits BUT also as a tool to once and for all figuring this RPM offset issue I think I have. Called my local Mercury dealer (5min from my home) and ordered it. 370$cnd I figured at that price it wasn't worth it for me to source it from the states due to shipping, duty fees and taxes.

I started this thread for VR5 owners and any other owners interested in Mercury's VVM. I will be picking it up this morning and will document the installation with pictures. I already inspected engine to see if I could locate the required connector and WOW Mercury made is easy to find on the 4.5L (200hp) engine that I got in my 2017 VR5. The large black/grey plastic engine cover just lifts up and off its rubber grommets and just left of the main breaker is the RED Terminator plug. From everything I read on installing this I think the hardest part will be to find a suitable place to mount or position the module itself.

Steps and Pics coming soon.

[Guest]

Freechip, I would be interested in your install. Pics would be great. My RPM's sound just like what you are describing, so maybe there is some more credibility to your thoughts.

I have a 2016 VR5 with the 4.3L and after having issues getting out of the hole finally found a 4 blade 19 pitch prop that changed the whole feeling of the boat. There are a couple other threads about the prop issue on BOC. Have you found a prop yet?

[rgs2horses]

See thread on Vessel View Mobile

[freechip]

Right now I'm running Spitfire 14" x 19p 4 blade. But I already know fully loaded with fuel, gear and people it's a little sluggish getting on plane. But since most of my running is 4 people I'm sticking with it plus I spent my quota for the year on this that I'll wait next year to get another prop, something like a Black Max 14.5 x 17p for those days that we are 8 and doing some water sports.

[freechip]

Ok here we go. Picked up my VVM from dealer and inspected package. It appears to be a very nice well built item.

Black cover simply held by rubber grommets, removing it is super simple. The "red" Terminator connector is right there next to breaker. Removed it and connected in place of dummy cap on VVM. Connected VVM to engine.

Turned key to On and started app and connected.

Answered few questions on App and voila.

Without even being in the water I'm already super stoked about this. I had logged in my phone my Hours based on my GPS info I use in my boat purely to keep more accurate track of speed, max speed and moving time, total time and stop time it provides.

I had logged based on that 29hrs but I personnally know I had rounded some times in the plus just so I'm better off being off with more which would make me do maintance prematurely instead of late.

I was pleasantly happy to see VVM show 26.9 letting me know my current method was working but now I got the real thing straight from engine computer.

Here are some pics, I have yet to mount the module itself at the time of this post.










Attached files

[freechip]

More pics including first look at my hours and remaining hours for servicing.

[freechip]

In the end this is how I position the VVM's two connector and how I mounted to module itself l.

[freechip]

Well after an hour and half of running with the VVM this evening I'm super happy with my decision to buy it.

And just as I suspected my rpm gauge is indeed off.

+/- 300 at idle which increases to over 1,100 +/- at higher rpm.









I guess I'll attempt to adjust the analog gauge with adjustment on the back to best of my ability since dealer didn't do it when I asked them.

[Redwngr]

Did you check the tach at WOT?

[freechip]

Yes, analog tach displayed just under 6,000 give or take while VVM displayed almost 4,700rpm. With a recommended 4,400 to 4,800 WOT rpm for my 4.5L 200hp engine I'm pleased with 4,700.

This is running with a Spitfire 14 x 19P 4 blade. I'll be looking into getting maybe a BlackMax 17P for next year for when I'm fully loaded with passengers and doing watersports.

RIght now I have the Spitfire 19P(4blade) installed and the BlackMax 19P (3blade) as spare/backup, this is the prop that came with it from dealer/manufacturer.

[Hawk]

"freechip" post=818161 wrote:
Yes, analog tach displayed just under 6,000 give or take while VVM displayed almost 4,700rpm. With a recommended 4,400 to 4,800 WOT rpm for my 4.5L 200hp engine I'm pleased with 4,700.

This is running with a Spitfire 14 x 19P 4 blade. I'll be looking into getting maybe a BlackMax 17P for next year for when I'm fully loaded with passengers and doing watersports.

RIght now I have the Spitfire 19P(4blade) installed and the BlackMax 19P (3blade) as spare/backup, this is the prop that came with it from dealer/manufacturer.

Thanks for the install and display info,that's a great piece of kit! next purchase on my list.

With regards to your analog tach error, is the connection jumper/switch on the back of the gauge set to V6 for your engine.

[freechip]

I didn't see any switch per say but a dial sort of speak that could be adjusted using small flat screw driver.

It had numbering 1,2,3,4,5,6

I never played with it cause I was hoping dealer would do it right. Now that I have the VVM and can see tach right from motor I'll play with it myself.

[Hawk]

"freechip" post=818213 wrote:
I didn't see any switch per say but a dial sort of speak that could be adjusted using small flat screw driver.

It had numbering 1,2,3,4,5,6

I never played with it cause I was hoping dealer would do it right. Now that I have the VVM and can see tach right from motor I'll play with it myself.

The numbers should relate to the V number of your engine, mine has the correct corresponding switch number that relates to the engine V number printed on the back of the gauge.

[freechip]

And yours is accurate?

[rgs2horses]

Just a fyi, the gauges on my VR5 are spot on with the VVM numbers. I was surprised that the analog gauges were that accurate