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Flushing Stern Drive - Does this look correct?-gctid814722

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    Flushing Stern Drive - Does this look correct?-gctid814722

    I have a couple questions about my new (to me) 175 BR.

    The video is of flushing the Mercruiser outdrive unit using the "muffs". I noticed almost all of the water is coming out of the starboard side of the motor, with very little coming out of the port side. Is this normal? Boat is running fine and temp gauge doesn't get up above about 175┬░.

    https://youtu.be/FjEYhCZyN28

    The second question concerns the battery. The prior owner has a battery charger installed and he said he kept it plugged in during the long period of time between using the boat. We used the boat for about 4 hours last Sunday and today (Friday) I had enough battery power to run the blower, but not actually crank over the engine. The voltmeter was reading below the running volts we saw while using the boat (13+). I hooked up the charger and was able to start it. My question is - does a normal battery require charging with less than a week between start times? In other words, is this normal or should I take a closer look at the battery being old and not holding a charge?

    Also, has anyone used a solar charging setup for a single 12v battery in a small boat like this? I'm thinking that would be a heck of a lot more convenient than running an extension cord out to the boat all the time.
    Frank Hagan
    2008 Bayliner BR-175
    1999 West Wight Potter 19' (sailboat)
    2000 Stevenson's Weekender 15' (home built sailboat)
    Oxnard / Channel Islands Harbor, CA

    #2
    Your flushing setup looks good, water is coming out of the exhaust posts that means engine is receiving raw water from the garden hose.

    Regarding your battery question. Assuming there are no parasitic loads (battery disconnected) lead acid battery should discharge 5% of capacity per month. In my case when boat is layed-up for winter after 6 month I have plenty of power to turn the engine over and start the motor. It is likely your battery is cooked or has been deep discharged too many times and need to be replaced. I would get a new marine battery and make sure there are no DC loads draining it, if you have DC battery disconnect switch use it.

    Comment


      #3
      You may have a piece of exhaust shutter blocking the port side relief port. On the battery, make sure your alternator is functioning.

      EDIT: may be normal if you have a 3.0
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556
      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        If the boat is not prefect level port to starboard, more water runs out the lower exhaust port.

        The boat was used in saltwater ?

        When was a new t-stat installed last ?

        Elbow looked at / changed last.

        Eyeballed the flapper ?

        I made sure to see all the way down the down pipe looking for old flappers.

        Edit :

        With the engine running you should have over 14v at the battery terminals ... understand ?

        Using a good voltmeter confirm you dash voltmeter, at least you can mentally adjust in your mind the difference is readings .

        Ok say your alternator is good ( big assumption ) if this were my boat, i would get rid of any charger the p.o installed, disconnect the battery, starting at the battery work your way forward cleaning all connections, the ones on the starter etc. don't forget the neg cable ground on the thrubolt on the bell housing.

        Take the battery to auto zone to have checked,

        i installed a die hard starter/ deep cycle lasted 6 years.

        I shut off the power using the mb switch, every time i left the boat overnight or for weeks.

        You can use a solar trickle charger no problem,

        Only wire live with the mb switch off should be the bilge pump .

        Not the radio .
        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        Manalapan N.J

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks, everyone! That reassures me on the water flushing.

          The boat was not used in salt water before last weekend (at least according to the prior owner). It looks pretty good for a 10 year old boat, so I believe him. We are using it in salt water, though.

          The alternator is good according to my Vector battery charger test. The volt meter on the dash shows just under 15 volts when running. The battery itself has five connections to the positive terminal; two are the main engine connections, I think. One is labeled for the stereo memory, one is labeled "battery positive terminal" and leads to the bilge pump, and one is unlabeled but goes to the "Pro Mariner ProSport 1.5 On Board Battery Maintainer" (it is the 16 awg wire you see to the right in the image).

          At rest, my voltmeter shows 12.1 volts from the battery. I can't detect any load on the batter with the voltmeter, but I'm not sure that's significant. The battery is not dated. Cells are full. My charger does not indicate a fault, but also does not indicate the battery is fully charged when it shuts off.


          Attached files

          Frank Hagan
          2008 Bayliner BR-175
          1999 West Wight Potter 19' (sailboat)
          2000 Stevenson's Weekender 15' (home built sailboat)
          Oxnard / Channel Islands Harbor, CA

          Comment


            #6
            Keep in mind if the battery is low on charge the alternator voltage can dip down 13.2VDC easily as the battery sucks up all the current and alternator cannot provide more amperage. This is a common condition when the lead acid battery plates heavily sulfate, the current draw on alternator can eventually lead to alternator failure as they are not typically designed to run 100% of capacity all the time. Most alternators are regulated to 14.4VDC on the upper end to prevent over-voltage, but you may not see that voltage until battery is sufficiently charged or excessive current draw source is disconnected.

            Comment


              #7
              I did find a date code on the battery, and it is new. According to Interstate's website the "C78GU" code means it was manufactured in March of 2017. But it was hard to start this morning at the ramp. The first time I still had the drive up. The second key turn didn't start it. The third or fourth did start. It sounded like a battery that was weak to me.

              I disconnected the stereo, that was wired "always on" and was relying on the push button switch on it's face plate. I also remove the leads for the battery maintainer, and pulled the 5 amp fuse from the "stereo memory" lead. I'm charging the battery again. I double checked that all the panel switches were off, and I'll test it again n a few days. It should hold a charge.
              Frank Hagan
              2008 Bayliner BR-175
              1999 West Wight Potter 19' (sailboat)
              2000 Stevenson's Weekender 15' (home built sailboat)
              Oxnard / Channel Islands Harbor, CA

              Comment


                #8
                Battery good, all connections good and clean including the Neg. connection on the block, then the starter is suspect.

                What starter you have ?
                Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                Manalapan N.J

                Comment


                  #9
                  "Chief Alen" post=814833 wrote:
                  Battery good, all connections good and clean including the Neg. connection on the block, then the starter is suspect.

                  What starter you have ?
                  Agree, look at all battery cable connections both positives and negatives at both ends for clean solid contact. Then check/test/jump the slave solenoid and then onto the starter.
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556
                  Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks, I'll check again later in the week to see if it's one of the items I isolated, and if it's not, then I'll progress on to the starter and solenoid.
                    Frank Hagan
                    2008 Bayliner BR-175
                    1999 West Wight Potter 19' (sailboat)
                    2000 Stevenson's Weekender 15' (home built sailboat)
                    Oxnard / Channel Islands Harbor, CA

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Learned the hard way, just cause the terminal or battery post looks clean it may not be.

                      Use a battery brush make sure the posts are clean, remove and make shiny clean all connections, and do this with the battery disconnected.
                      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      Manalapan N.J

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Once you get the motor started and run it all day, does the battery have any issues? If not I would try this with the battery fully charged with a battery charger. Remove the charger and pull the negative cable from the battery and let boat sit. a few day like you have in the past. Then after a few day reattach the negative cable and see how the boat starts. If the battery turn over the engine normally you have have a draw on the battery. If the engine turns over sluggish then the battery is shot. If you do plan to try this please post back with results. If you have a slow draw I can let you know an easy way to identify it.
                        QuickChek over Wawa
                        Taylor Ham not Pork Roll


                        2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
                        Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP MPI Alpha 1 Gen II

                        Sold 2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
                        Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                        Sold 1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
                        Evinrude 88 Special

                        Restoring 1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
                        1992 Johnson 40HP

                        40°55'22.9"N 74°39'11.9"W

                        Comment


                          #13
                          My battery would drain if in just over 2-weeks of not being used. I have now learned to remove the red battery key after each trip. No problems since...there seems to be a constant draw even when everything is switched off unless the red battery key is turned off..
                          Lake Hartwell, GA
                          2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
                          1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
                          1987 SeaRay 300 - Twin 454’s
                          1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
                          1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
                          1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
                          1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO
                          1996 SeaDoo GTX
                          1999 SeaDoo GTX

                          Comment


                            #14
                            "Waterdowg" post=814957 wrote:
                            Once you get the motor started and run it all day, does the battery have any issues? If not I would try this with the battery fully charged with a battery charger. Remove the charger and pull the negative cable from the battery and let boat sit. a few day like you have in the past. Then after a few day reattach the negative cable and see how the boat starts. If the battery turn over the engine normally you have have a draw on the battery. If the engine turns over sluggish then the battery is shot. If you do plan to try this please post back with results. If you have a slow draw I can let you know an easy way to identify it.
                            We had some trouble starting the motor after launch, but after running 3+ hours, when we took her home to flush it out the motor started fine. The best I can tell right now the battery would become weak in 4 - 5 days of non-use. I'm doing a test to see if disconnecting the radio and "battery maintainer" lead to less discharge of the battery (if that's indeed what is happening). I'll try to start it on Friday afternoon.

                            My wife read about removing all the leads from the negative terminal and then using a test light between each lead and the terminal to see if there's any power being drawn. That would isolate it to that particular lead. As others have said here it could also be the starter, so I'll check that out. It almost acts like a starter, in that when you turn the key all the way it doesn't always grind away trying to start. A quick turn all the way to the right and release usually starts it.
                            Frank Hagan
                            2008 Bayliner BR-175
                            1999 West Wight Potter 19' (sailboat)
                            2000 Stevenson's Weekender 15' (home built sailboat)
                            Oxnard / Channel Islands Harbor, CA

                            Comment


                              #15
                              "fshagan" post=815101 wrote:
                              when you turn the key all the way it doesn't always grind away trying to start. A quick turn all the way to the right and release usually starts it.
                              This sounds like an ignition switch issue.
                              Dave
                              Edmonds, WA
                              "THE FIX"
                              '93 2556
                              Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                              Misc. projects thread
                              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                              Comment

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