Bayliner 175, dead battery switch-gctid811868

[CraigM]

So, I went to de-winterize, turned the key, nothing. No gauges/horn etc. I traced it to a faulty battery switch, 12v in, 3v out (yes the key was in the "on" position).

It'll be replaced under warranty. My question is, is it really necessary to have a battery switch at all? I understand the need if you have 2 batteries in a larger boat than mine.

So, what does this switch do, aside from fail and piss me off? lol

[Mrwalleyeman]

The battery switch in our 2016 deckboat just cuts power (has on or off switch) to everything on the dash. The stereo in our boat has constant power unless I turn the switch off which has killed our batter already. It isn't a switch that lets you switch to a different batter it just has on and off, not battery 1, battery 2, both or off.

[Hawk]

Our 175 had exactly the same problem at less than 6 months old, its so easy to sometimes forget to turn all the constant fed items off, like the radio, navigation lights or even the pump etc, especially at the end of a long day out and the family just want to go home, so one isolation switch to remember is a good thing IMO and you never go back to a dead battery.

[RobMick]

I learned about our "red key" after my boat was dead after not running her for a few weeks when we first got her. I didn't realize the battery drain was an issue. New battery, zip ties the "red key" to the negative battery cable so it doesn't grow legs and walk away, and a closed chapter in the "boat lessens learned, mistakes made only once" chapter. Haven't forgotten to turn it off since..

[JosephM]

When I put the second battery in, I installed a 4 position selector switch for that reason. Its really nice knowing that nothing is drawing from the battery.

(1,2,1+2,OFF)

[MonteVista]

Battery switch cuts power to most (but not all!) circuits. This is a good way to ensure that circuits/devices are not left ON, unintentionally. It is a good, central control mechanism to ensure against a switch being turned on and left in the on position when you leave the boat. Bilge switch, radio clock, CO monitor are wired directly to the battery and the battery switch does not affect those.

My recommendation would be not to let an unfortunate failure cause you to eliminate that switch.

Enjoy boating!

[6104696]

"MonteVista" post=811968 wrote:
Battery switch cuts power to most (but not all!) circuits. This is a good way to ensure that circuits/devices are not left ON, unintentionally. It is a good, central control mechanism to ensure against a switch being turned on and left in the on position when you leave the boat. Bilge switch, radio clock, CO monitor are wired directly to the battery and the battery switch does not affect those.

My recommendation would be not to let an unfortunate failure cause you to eliminate that switch.

Enjoy boating!

Agree. Switch failures are rare, dead batteries are not. A properly wired battery switch should kill power to everything but an automatic bilge pump, if so equipped. So many "vampire" electronics these days, in radios, ECU's, Chartplotters.....battery switch is a good idea for a boat or anything that can sit for weeks on end......

[RobMick]

On our little 185, the battery switch cuts power to EVERYTHING including bilge switch, radio,

[MonteVista]

"RobMick" post=812057 wrote:
On our little 185, the battery switch cuts power to EVERYTHING including bilge switch, radio,

I think you are referring to the bilge switch on the dash. That would be cut off with the battery switch. There is a second switch, the float switch, that would be hard wired to the battery. Also, the radio itself would be powered via the battery switch. Most radios also have a separate input to power its clock so that the radio does not lose the time if/when its power is cut off.

Enjoy!

[RobMick]

"MonteVista" post=812169 wrote:

"RobMick" post=812057 wrote:
On our little 185, the battery switch cuts power to EVERYTHING including bilge switch, radio,

I think you are referring to the bilge switch on the dash. That would be cut off with the battery switch. There is a second switch, the float switch, that would be hard wired to the battery. Also, the radio itself would be powered via the battery switch. Most radios also have a separate input to power its clock so that the radio does not lose the time if/when its power is cut off.

Enjoy!

It's funny, my 185 has a separate bilge float switch, but it is not "hardwired" to the battery as it should be. I just haven't had the motivation to separate the zip tied "spaghetti" of wires there to figure it out. I know I should, and I will in due time. As for the radio, maybe I do but there is absolutely nothing when that battery switch is turned off...it may have the same internal battery that my hour meter does that is incorporated into my tach...it still really makes me angry that all the manuals and brochures, even the window sticker from the boat when new says it has "an automatic bilge pump" when it really doesn't...