New Tower and Perfect Pass-gctid366568

[Guest Close Guest]

Tried them out this weekend and love them both.

The tower is the new Monster MTk which is also the standard '12 flight series tower. Racks are from DIYWake and the mirror is a Samson.

My wife and I both love driving with the perfect pass. So nice to just set the speed and focus on keeping a straight line. Speed stays within 0.3 mph even when I'm edging as hard as I can.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/669928=25943-100_0017.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/669928=25944-100_0018.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/669928=25945-100_0019.jpg[/img]

[Guest Close Guest]

Looks real sharp. I am a bit jealous though as we still have 3' of ice on the lake in front of my house.

[Guest Close Guest]

I would gladly trade the early spring for a lake in front of my house. We'll send some warm air up your way.

[Guest Close Guest]

Nice...I like the reverse arch towers since they don't block your view from the helm....I would really like to get a perfect pass system.....just not in budget.

[Guest Close Guest]

That is awesome! I just added a tower to my boat last September-honestly never looked at the reverse tower because I don't see many, but now I wish I had! I'm sure the mounting surfaces are much more stable too.

Can you share your perfect pass install experience? I've considered it but never met anyone who has added it themselves.

[Guest Close Guest]

Thanks guys.

Pat, the PP install was the easiest part. The instructions were very detailed and included a pictured insert that was specific to my motor. I bought from Only Inboards and they sent me an email before shipping to get my model and motor. General instructions and video's are on the perfect pass website.

Here's all it takes... The servo motor mounts to a hose near the exhaust manifold with two hose clamps. The servo throttle cable connects to the existing throttle body with a couple of nuts. Run the power cables from servo motor to the control box under the dash, screw the control box to the bulkhead under the dash, plug wire harnesses to control box, remove the instrument panel's six or so allen screws, install the PP gauge in place of the speedo, clamp the speedo tube, connect three wires to the back of the tach, mount GPS unit with velcro and plug into control box, reinstall instrument panel, clean up wiring, run a couple of tests and done. Took about two hours at an easy pace.

After two days on the water, I can say I'll never own another boat without it. Not just because of the driving advantages, but because the pull is so consistant that it really cranks up your confidence when edging behind the boat. It's really nice to be able to predict how the boat is going to respond at all times.

I promise, the PP instructions are much easier to follow than mine!

[Guest Close Guest]

Wow, It does not sound as bad as I thought. I thought I would have to take apart the throttle and controls at the attachment site on the engine and obviously the more you take apart, the more room for error you have.

Which model did you get, the GPS based one? I have read that if you boat in a place with a lot of current you probably should use the speedo based unit, but to be honest I have a GPS/fishfinder on my boat and we ONLY use the GPS speed read out-current or not, haha.

[Guest Close Guest]

I went with the Stargazer/GPS model. I only have inland lakes around me so no issues with currents. The paddle-wheel version does cost less too. It may just come down to how swift the currents generally are. If just a few mph, the PP Stargazer speed is easy enough to adjust up or down on the fly. If your riding with a current of six or more mph, then you may start getting outside the recommended speed range for wake-mode and may have to switch to Slalom or RPM mode which are recommended for speeds over 25mph. You supposedly lose a little accuracy in those modes but I haven't tested it.