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Looking to install bilge pump in hard to fit spot

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    Looking to install bilge pump in hard to fit spot

    I have a 2016 215DB that the bilge fills with a lot of water due to where the current bilge pump is located from the factory. Below it a drawing to kind of explain what I would like to do. But to sum it up, it would like to add an additional pump under the engine but I do not have room to get under there to install it. I'm looking for some suggestions on how to install this or some photos if you have done so.
    Attached Files
    2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
    Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

    2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
    Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

    1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
    Evinrude 88 Special

    1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
    1992 Johnson 40HP.

    #2
    The best way I’ve seen is to mount the pump to a piece of aluminum bent in the shape needed to get the pump where you want it. What I’ve seen pictures of generally use a piece of 2-3” wide 1/8” or so thick stock from most any large hardware store. To bend it, if you aren’t a tool nut like me, you can use a chunk of 4x4, a large clamp or two and a hammer, preferably a dead blow type available at Harbor Freight. The plan is to mount the pump to the aluminum, hose, wires and all, then mount the assembly to a stringer where you can get at it. You can use wire from a coat hanger to bend as a model until you get a shape that works. The shape that comes to my mind would screw onto an outboard side of a stringer, or if it’s a glassed in flat deck to that, then do an S shape to get to the position under the engine. Start at the mounting end and work to the pump end so that you can use the long end of the aluminum piece for leverage then use hammer with a force like a heavy tap rather than pounding. Clamp the aluminum to the 4x4, push down 12” or so beyond the edge of the 4x4 then apply the hammer an inch or two past the corner of the 4x4 moving parallel to the edge of the 4x4. Bend slower rather than faster.
    Any fasteners going into the hull must be bedded in a compound like 4200 to prevent water from getting into any wood. Bad things can happen when fresh water gets into structure.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
    MMSI 367770440
    1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
    Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Pcpete View Post
      The best way I’ve seen is to mount the pump to a piece of aluminum bent in the shape needed to get the pump where you want it. What I’ve seen pictures of generally use a piece of 2-3” wide 1/8” or so thick stock from most any large hardware store. To bend it, if you aren’t a tool nut like me, you can use a chunk of 4x4, a large clamp or two and a hammer, preferably a dead blow type available at Harbor Freight. The plan is to mount the pump to the aluminum, hose, wires and all, then mount the assembly to a stringer where you can get at it. You can use wire from a coat hanger to bend as a model until you get a shape that works. The shape that comes to my mind would screw onto an outboard side of a stringer, or if it’s a glassed in flat deck to that, then do an S shape to get to the position under the engine. Start at the mounting end and work to the pump end so that you can use the long end of the aluminum piece for leverage then use hammer with a force like a heavy tap rather than pounding. Clamp the aluminum to the 4x4, push down 12” or so beyond the edge of the 4x4 then apply the hammer an inch or two past the corner of the 4x4 moving parallel to the edge of the 4x4. Bend slower rather than faster.
      Any fasteners going into the hull must be bedded in a compound like 4200 to prevent water from getting into any wood. Bad things can happen when fresh water gets into structure.
      Hummm...... I was thinking of that, but my thought was always wedging the the aluminum from the transom to the bulk head. I never thought about going to the outboard sides. I will have to look again and see how accessible that is. But may work. I have attached a drawing of what I'm thinking based on how i understood what you saying.

      Here is the pump I'm looking at. http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/mari...pro-series.htm
      Attached Files
      2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
      Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

      2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
      Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

      1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
      Evinrude 88 Special

      1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
      1992 Johnson 40HP.

      Comment


        #4
        This is easy

        With the transom dry glue down a chunk of industrial velcro for the pump and another for the float switch

        Then glue the other half of the velcro to your pump base.and the float switch base

        Use a pump that has a replacable motor/impuller unit like the johnson brand pumps.

        Then you can pull the pump and the float switch with one hand for servicing.

        Don’t laugh Industrial Velcro is really tough stuff. I keep several varities of it on the boat and have been very happy with it.

        KEVIN SANDERS
        4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA

        Comment


          #5
          Here's what I did.
          Attached Files
          1994 2859 in Tacoma, WA
          7.4 Mercruiser
          Still learning about other systems
          and specs.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ksanders View Post
            This is easy

            With the transom dry glue down a chunk of industrial velcro for the pump and another for the float switch

            Then glue the other half of the velcro to your pump base.and the float switch base

            Use a pump that has a replacable motor/impuller unit like the johnson brand pumps.

            Then you can pull the pump and the float switch with one hand for servicing.

            Don’t laugh Industrial Velcro is really tough stuff. I keep several varities of it on the boat and have been very happy with it.
            Velcro...... Never thought about that. The industrial stuff is the plastic type correct? Would you suggest gluing the Velcro as apposed to the adhesive backing? If so what would you suggest I use to glue it down. I would a have to look and see if I can reach down there to install the Velcro and pump. I may be able to do it if the Velcro is glued down. The Rule LoPro 900s is and automatic pump with a low profile. Its is also adjustable so it will kick on at 1.3" or 2" what depth. The motor is also removable. but not sure if they sell it as a replacement or not. The enter pump is only around $60 so its not a big loss if I have to buy a new one.
            2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
            Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

            2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
            Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

            1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
            Evinrude 88 Special

            1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
            1992 Johnson 40HP.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Waterdowg View Post

              Velcro...... Never thought about that. The industrial stuff is the plastic type correct? Would you suggest gluing the Velcro as apposed to the adhesive backing? If so what would you suggest I use to glue it down. I would a have to look and see if I can reach down there to install the Velcro and pump. I may be able to do it if the Velcro is glued down. The Rule LoPro 900s is and automatic pump with a low profile. Its is also adjustable so it will kick on at 1.3" or 2" what depth. The motor is also removable. but not sure if they sell it as a replacement or not. The enter pump is only around $60 so its not a big loss if I have to buy a new one.
              I do not know if the adhesive is watter proof for submersion. I have a box of it right here and it says water resistant. That is why i recommended gluing it down.

              Re-thinking that I would just wipe tha area with a solvent like acetone to de-grease it and give it a go. If it does not stick wown forever you could always glue it, but I have tried to remove industrial Velcro ant it’s a real bugger.

              This the pump you are looking for?

              https://marine.biglakesupply.com/pro...tomatic-lp900s

              interesting, never used one of those.

              KEVIN SANDERS
              4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jongleur View Post
                Here's what I did.
                I like how you bent and twisted the Aluminum to fit. Its the type of Aluminum I was thinking about or for more strength I would use a 1" x1" angle in stead of flat bar.. If I go that route I would have to attach to the Outboard side of the bilge as I think the may be to long of a run from front of the bilge to the rear.
                2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
                Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
                Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
                Evinrude 88 Special

                1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
                1992 Johnson 40HP.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thank you all for the quick responses and great ideas. Lets keep them coming....
                  2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
                  Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                  2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
                  Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                  1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
                  Evinrude 88 Special

                  1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
                  1992 Johnson 40HP.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you have low clearance use the whale low profile bilge pump mounted to the aluminum mount. Works great. The 2 in the pics were in my trophy. I now have 2 whale low profile 1100gph pumps mounted this same way on a 2859.
                    Doug
                    1995 2859 -extensively rebuilt/restored 2016/17
                    496 big block - Bravo ll leg
                    The Doghouse
                    Prince George BC

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by sketch96 View Post
                      If you have low clearance use the whale low profile bilge pump mounted to the aluminum mount. Works great. The 2 in the pics were in my trophy. I now have 2 whale low profile 1100gph pumps mounted this same way on a 2859.
                      Thank you, those are great pictures. That is what I envisioned after reading PcPete's post. What is the thickness of the metal? Do you have an issue with bouncing with the metal being that long? I may have to go this route. I don't think I can get under the engine to use Velcro. Although I really like the Velcro idea.
                      I forgot about the Whale pumps, and just looked at them. They are only few dollars more them Rule pumps. Do you know how high the water needs to get before the pump turn on? Rule id 1 1/3" or 2" options.
                      I like whales pumps get down to 1/3" of water left in the bilge.
                      2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
                      Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                      2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
                      Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                      1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
                      Evinrude 88 Special

                      1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
                      1992 Johnson 40HP.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The way that i formed the aluminum they are kind of spring loaded against the hull when you tighten the screws to fasten them down to prevent any bouncing. The aluminum is 1/8". The depth of water before they turn on is approx 2".

                        I havent got to try the whale pumps yet in my 2859 but another boater on the forum here (fritzman) has been using them and likes them.
                        Doug
                        1995 2859 -extensively rebuilt/restored 2016/17
                        496 big block - Bravo ll leg
                        The Doghouse
                        Prince George BC

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by sketch96 View Post
                          The way that i formed the aluminum they are kind of spring loaded against the hull when you tighten the screws to fasten them down to prevent any bouncing. The aluminum is 1/8". The depth of water before they turn on is approx 2".

                          I havent got to try the whale pumps yet in my 2859 but another boater on the forum here (fritzman) has been using them and likes them.
                          Thank you. That make sense to stop the bouncing.
                          2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
                          Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                          2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
                          Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

                          1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
                          Evinrude 88 Special

                          1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
                          1992 Johnson 40HP.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            if it were me, I would purchase a diaphragm pump and mount it where there is plenty of room, and then just place the end of the pick up hose under the engine....


                            NU LIBERTE'
                            Salem, OR

                            1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                            5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                            N2K equipped throughout..
                            2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                            2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                            '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                            Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I went with the aluminum brace also, like sketch said its spring loaded to stay firmly against the hull bottom. I prefer a separate float switche to the fully automatic type pumps, those low profile pumps (rule) can be purchased either way. Click image for larger version

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                              Dave
                              Edmonds, WA
                              "THE FIX"
                              '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                              (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                              Misc. projects thread
                              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                              Comment

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