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Fitting a bow cleat

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    Fitting a bow cleat

    I've got a 'new-to-me' E16 and it's got no bow cleat. I understand that's normal. But I don't like tying the anchor line off a side cleat and want to fit a bow cleat.

    Has anyone done this? If so, how? I can't get my arm up between the hull and the inner skin to tighten any nuts, so I guess that means something like an Accon top fitting cleat? Any experience out there?

    #2
    Make a bridle to attach to both your bow cleats. Much easier, and works better too.
    Jeff & Tara
    (And Ginger too)
    Lake Havasu City, AZ

    2000 Bayliner 3388
    "GetAway"
    Cummins 4bta 250s

    In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

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      #3
      A bridle would be the simplest solution. If you really want to drill holes, look up "bow chocks." I just run a loop through my bow eye when I want a "straight" pull on the anchor line.

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        #4
        A bridle does sound easy, I'm just used to having a bow cleat. If I fitted a bow chock, wouldn't I still need to get underneath to fit a reinforcing plate?

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        • Centerline2
          Centerline2 commented
          Editing a comment
          yes if you fit a center bow cleat, you need a substantial backing plate to prevent the cleat bolts from pulling out of the deck..

          the chocks at the edge of the deck are less prone to damaging the deck because the pressure from the anchor rode is usually passive as the rode passes thru the chock, so reinforcing is seldom used under chocks... and in most cases, the radius of the deck where the chocks are normally mounted is already a bit thicker and stronger.

          ive fitted center cleats on boats with an inner liner, and my method is to carefully mark and cut out a panel large enough to get the backing plate installed.... then after the proper install of the cleat, I take the cutout piece of liner and trim/frame it nicely with mahogany. I leave a half inch lip of wood overlapping the edge and fit it all back in the hole and used screws to hold it in place.... this is about the only way to do a professional looking job of that particular task.

          one time I didnt have enough room between the inner line and the under side of the deck, so I had to make my frame/trim deeper to accommodate the backing plate and fasteners..

        #5
        This is how the dealer gained access to install the front cleats.
        Bayliner Element XL 2015
        Australia

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          #6
          +1 with centerline2. You will find, at least I have, that you’ll need to cut an access hole. The trick is to make it look natural. Be sure to use a bedding compound like 4200 on anything fasteners going into or through, well, just about anything. For something like a cleat, I like to insert the bolts through the cleat and into the deck. Then with the cleat raised above the deck I coat the shafts with 4200 then lower everything at the same time. The goal is to coat and seal the penetration but keep the threads clean. I use those Clorox wipes to clean up any compound on my hands and around the hardware. Just a fwiw.
          P/C Pete
          Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
          1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
          Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
          1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
          MMSI 367770440
          1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
          Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

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            #7
            Most of our time on the water includes fishing while anchored on Lake Mead in Nevada. Since purchasing our 16 ft Element four months ago I've been looking for a simple solution to keep our anchor closer to the bow centerline to keep the boat from constantly swinging in the breeze. After reading suggestions in this thread I concluded that a bridle would work best for our needs so I ordered a Danik Hook and planned to make my own bridle. Then, I stumbled across the Anchor Shock and it looked like the perfect solution plus it's constructed of a bungee type rope that seems like it will soften the shock of waves or wake hitting our boat while anchored. The Anchor Shock appears to be well made, fits snug on our cleats and easily clips on to an overhand loop that we'll tie in our anchor line after dropping anchor. I'm looking forward to using it in two days and I'll definitely post my opinion and experience afterwards. Meanwhile, I'd appreciate any feedback or comments from others using the same or similar solution.
            Rip in Nevada
            2017 Element e16

            Comment


              #8
              Originally posted by Rip2017 View Post
              Then, I stumbled across the Anchor Shock and it looked like the perfect solution
              That is slick! Please report back and let us know how it works. My boat has two offset bow cleats like yours and so I make up a homemade anchor bridle with a couple dock lines. It works "ok" but not great. Everything I could find online had metal hooks on the cleat ends and being as anal as I am I did not want any scratches on the cleats or underlying gelcoat. This looks like a perfect solution. Is it built well and out of quality materials?


              Mocoondo
              2002 Bayliner 195 Capri
              Mercruiser 5.0L V8 / Alpha I Gen II
              MMSI: 338091755

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by Mocoondo View Post

                That is slick! Please report back and let us know how it works. My boat has two offset bow cleats like yours and so I make up a homemade anchor bridle with a couple dock lines. It works "ok" but not great. Everything I could find online had metal hooks on the cleat ends and being as anal as I am I did not want any scratches on the cleats or underlying gelcoat. This looks like a perfect solution. Is it built well and out of quality materials?

                So I headed to my favorite fishing area yesterday and there was a mild but steady breeze and a little chop on the water. These conditions always result in my e16 swinging constantly unless I use two anchors which is a pain in the butt {and back} ! So I dropped anchor, slipped the two Anchor Shock loops on each offset forward cleat, tied an overhand loop in the anchor line and clipped the Anchor Shock to that loop. This took approximately 20 seconds. Six hours passed and I'm ecstatic to report that I did not need to drop a second anchor, the Anchor Shock kept the anchor line forward of the bow and out of the way of fishing lines. I was also amazed at how the bungee effect eliminated the sudden jolt when wakes or waves hit the boat while anchored. This thing did exactly what I wanted it to, it's well made and it's economical ($40 on Amazon).

                Problem solved! Now it's time to add a small side brace to the bimini top to reduce the wobble while trailering.
                Rip in Nevada
                2017 Element e16

                Comment


                  #10
                  Originally posted by Rip2017 View Post

                  So I headed to my favorite fishing area yesterday and there was a mild but steady breeze and a little chop on the water. These conditions always result in my e16 swinging constantly unless I use two anchors which is a pain in the butt {and back} ! So I dropped anchor, slipped the two Anchor Shock loops on each offset forward cleat, tied an overhand loop in the anchor line and clipped the Anchor Shock to that loop. This took approximately 20 seconds. Six hours passed and I'm ecstatic to report that I did not need to drop a second anchor, the Anchor Shock kept the anchor line forward of the bow and out of the way of fishing lines. I was also amazed at how the bungee effect eliminated the sudden jolt when wakes or waves hit the boat while anchored. This thing did exactly what I wanted it to, it's well made and it's economical ($40 on Amazon).

                  Problem solved! Now it's time to add a small side brace to the bimini top to reduce the wobble while trailering.
                  Very good. Thanks for the review. That was exactly what I was looking for. I ordered one off Amazon this morning. It should be here by this afternoon...still two months away from liquid water though.
                  Mocoondo
                  2002 Bayliner 195 Capri
                  Mercruiser 5.0L V8 / Alpha I Gen II
                  MMSI: 338091755

                  Comment


                    #11
                    If that hook and spring/clip mechanism is not all stainless steel, that is a one-season and done hook in saltwater. As soon as the spring fails, that thing is useless. For $40, it doesn't sound like it is all stainless....

                    You can make a bridle for virtually nothing.....I can't address the "shock" issue....i have just never noticed it enough to be a concern.

                    (not trying to be a killjoy.......just being my cynical self)......

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Originally posted by 6104696 View Post
                      If that hook and spring/clip mechanism is not all stainless steel, that is a one-season and done hook in saltwater. As soon as the spring fails, that thing is useless. For $40, it doesn't sound like it is all stainless....

                      You can make a bridle for virtually nothing.....I can't address the "shock" issue....i have just never noticed it enough to be a concern.

                      (not trying to be a killjoy.......just being my cynical self)......
                      I found the stainless version for a few more dollars.

                      Mocoondo
                      2002 Bayliner 195 Capri
                      Mercruiser 5.0L V8 / Alpha I Gen II
                      MMSI: 338091755

                      Comment


                        #13
                        They look very good. I was going to make up a bridle myself, but I've just ordered the stainless version from Amazon, $44.95, free shipping. Thanks for showing these.

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