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Batteries.... did I just bake them...?

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    Batteries.... did I just bake them...?

    Made the dumb dumb move of not disconnecting both batteries over winter (from November). Amazingly, they turn over, just when I tried in March but not enough to start. I plugged in my genie and charged for 2 hours and voila she started up. As on hard court (275 has a seawater/raw heat exchange ) I didn't run for more than 5 minutes.
    Still forgot to disconnect both batteries. But did go a buy a shore power lead the boat yard put my boat close enough to a power outlet.

    Then Lockdown. Came back to the boat for the first time last week - batteries register around 10.5v. Plugged into shore power and on charge for maybe 4 hours and go up to 11v.
    Came back yesterday and had them on charge for maybe 6 hours and as I went to leave, I turned off the AC and check the ignition - she had a full 12v. I was very happy.

    Today, I came back - (hot day) so plugged in the shore power again so I could use the fridge, and for a short time the radio, and charge my iPhone. I put the charger on too.
    As I understand it, my charger has a control unit that is supposed to stop charging if the battery is fully charged, so I left the charger switch on - while I worked on the boat - again for maybe 5-6 hours.
    Then turned everything off as I wanted to work on wiring in a new water pump.

    Open up the engine bay and I hear a faint crackling sound, not like arching, but a crackling/fizzing sound. It was coming from the No1 Battery. There was no smell, no fumes just the sound - which continued for 20 minutes - at which point I decided to leave alone (they are both marine sealed batteries). I don't know why, but with shore power off, I decided to turn on the main battery power switch and turn the ignition 1 click - 10v - flat, no needle movement.

    I don't know how old Battery 1 is (it came with the boat last January but can't be older than 3 years) and Battery 2 I bought new last May. Both are Wet, not Gel.

    So did my charging unit over cook the batteries? Are they toast?

    Thanks
    2006 Bayliner 275
    Cummins Mercruiser 2.8l Diesel 200HP
    Bravo 3

    #2
    What was the electrolyte level like? And did you check battery 2?
    2004 Monterey 282 Cruiser
    Twin Volvo Penta 5.0GXi-E
    SX-M 1.6gr Outdrives
    Docks @ Punta Gorda, Florida

    Comment


    • Pipmeister
      Pipmeister commented
      Editing a comment
      These are sealed batteries so not sure how/if you can check this. Battery 2 was not making any noise - this is the starting battery plus used for heating. This too gave a low 10v charge. I know that if you have one older and one newer battery, and that if the older one is losing a lot/or can't store enough charge and your have both batteries on, the poorer health battery will bring the other one's performance down.

      I will go check the make of Charger - but I know from reading the manual in the past it mentions about managing the charging cycle - in fact you can hear the fans on it working to start off with and after a while go off. So assume it's going through those cycles.

    #3
    What specific type of on board charger is connected and being used?
    Also, you may want to check the condition of the impeller in your genset after that 5 minute run with no cooling water.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


    • Pipmeister
      Pipmeister commented
      Editing a comment
      No worries on that part (the 275 has dual cooling systems - so the normal closed system was still running) and because I am replacing the seawater pump this week (or was supposed to be) the impeller is going too

    #4
    This is the charger
    Attached Files
    2006 Bayliner 275
    Cummins Mercruiser 2.8l Diesel 200HP
    Bravo 3

    Comment


      #5
      Even though the batteries are “sealed” you can pry off the strip that “seals” the battery cells. It just snaps in there. I have begun to do this to all my batteries and alas each and everyone of them needs water in at least 1 cell. Some take a few mls others take much more. I use a syringe to fill each cell. I used to charge them up, get a good 12v reading and do to start and immediate drop down to 10v or so. Previously I would just run out and buy another battery. Now if my battery does take distilled water, charges and holds charge I am good for now. If I need to add water again within say a few weeks, I am replacing each and every batter I own with Gel makes one by one.
      Lake Hartwell, GA
      2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
      1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
      1987 SeaRay 300 - Twin 454’s
      1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
      1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
      1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
      1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO
      1996 SeaDoo GTX
      1999 SeaDoo GTX

      Comment


      • Pipmeister
        Pipmeister commented
        Editing a comment
        Well you learn something each day. I will go down tonight and see. I was also looking into Gel batteries but had thought that the charger I have wasn't suitable. But having dug around all the bits of paper that came with the boat I found the original manual (as I couldn't find one on line) and it turns out this charger is ok to work with Gel and Lead Acid. And can take 3 batteries - So might be the time to invest in a different series/parallel; approach i.e. 1 battery kept for starting and 2 for leisure - I think this is what I have been doing wrong in the part - I was alway told to start with the battery switch set to both and keep it there. Thing is, whomever wired up the switch/battery decided to put the leisure stuff split between both - i.e. the bilge, blowers and webasto and Anode ciruit box are one bat 2 and water pump, radio and light are on bat 1 - and assumed that the starter motor was connected to both (being told use both to crank). I am now thinking the former owner didn't know his elbow from his scrotXX.

        What is the normal process for wiring multiple batteries - should you have both tied to the engine in case one fails ??

      #6
      Originally posted by Pipmeister View Post
      This is the charger
      You have a model number for that charger? Im not familiar with that one🤔
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556
      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #7
        A few things that may be note worthy:

        A charge rate should be in the range of 13.4/13.6 volts.

        A 12 volt battery (after having been charged) needs to be at rest for 8 - 10 hours prior to taking an accurate voltage reading.

        Your Professional Mariner Flyback 10-3 is old school, and will likely not have a float mode. If left on too long, it may damage batteries.

        Running a seawater pump without water..... even for several minutes....... may cause several impeller pieces to break off and become lodged in the cooling system. When that occurs, these pieces can be difficult and time consuming to retrieve...... and they MUST be retrieved.
        If not retrieved, they may restrict the passages eventually causing over-heating issues.


        So might be the time to invest in a different series/parallel; approach i.e. 1 battery kept for starting and 2 for leisure
        Very easy to do via your MBSS ....... (i.e., main battery selector switch).
        With your diesel engine, your starting battery will need to be capable of the pre-heat load and of the cranking load.
        Your leisure batteries will be referred to as your HLBB (house load battery bank), and should be made up from true Deep Cycle batteries (not dual purpose).


        - I think this is what I have been doing wrong in the part - I was always told to start with the battery switch set to both and keep it there.
        Incorrect!

        Thing is, whomever wired up the switch/battery decided to put the leisure stuff split between both - i.e. the bilge, blowers and webasto and Anode ciruit box are one bat 2 and water pump, radio and light are on bat 1 - and assumed that the starter motor was connected to both (being told use both to crank).
        These circuits should be powered by the MBSS common cable...... and with ZERO direct battery connections.

        I am now thinking the former owner didn't know his elbow from his scrotXX.
        That is an understatement!

        What is the normal process for wiring multiple batteries - should you have both tied to the engine in case one fails ??
        On smaller single engine boats (up to 34 feet or so), both of your battery banks will be separated by the MBSS.
        YOU will be the one to select which bank you need for each scenario.

        Also, both battery banks can be joined by the MBSS (of which is "combining, and we want to avoid doing that with exception to an emergency).
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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