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1998 cierra 2855 - loss of prop power

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    #16
    I agree with Dave, sounds like the coupler is shoot. B3 props have solid hubs.
    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

    Mike

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      #17
      Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
      I agree with Dave, sounds like the coupler is shoot. B3 props have solid hubs.
      OK Mike. Is the coupler being the problem a huge deal or best scenario?

      Comment


        #18
        If the coupler is shot the drive is removed and typically the engine comes out for its replacement.
        coupler is around 450 to purchase.
        https://www.amazon.com/Mercruiser-En...r=8-1-fkmrnull
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by sprad1970 View Post

          OK Mike. Is the coupler being the problem a huge deal or best scenario?
          As Dave said the engine needs to come out as the coupler is bolted to the flywheel. Look behind the engine for the smell of rubber as well as rubber flakes.

          removal of the engine requires removal of the drive.
          1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

          Mike

          Comment


            #20
            I can't thank you enough guys. I have an appointment tomorrow to go see a mechanic. My marina's folks can't get to it for three weeks. Sorry, I am not waiting that long but at least I have a very good idea what it may be. I might even get a better deal from an off site mechanic. He is also mercruiser certified.

            Comment


              #21
              Well an interesting update I think we can all learn from. I pulled the boat out of the water to take the boat to the mechanic I had found. It was a stupid stick jammed in the hydraulic hoses causing the problem. The stick was in front of the props and was causing cavitation (loss of power) that resembled a defective engine coupling. I got off ez for once! Why I had the boat out I went ahead and pulled her down to the nearest gas station and filled up. I promptly put her back in and she is running fine!

              Comment


                #22
                I just started reading this thread and it reminded me of something that happened years ago on a B2. All the symptoms you described. I was sure I'd spun a hub. Turns out it was a hunk of wood jammed in the cav plate. Sometimes you do get lucky. You should investigate the low drive situation though. Could be a seperate issue.
                Doug
                Hanging Loose
                98 Carver 350 Mariner
                2013-
                KRUSTY KRAB
                2001 305
                5.7 BII
                2006-2013

                Comment


                  #23
                  Another simple fix regarding the power loss but in post 12 you stated there was oil leaking from the drive. You’ll most definitely want to repair that issue.
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I had all the lower seals replaced last fall and had it out once after. The boat mechanic says it is not uncommon for new seals with little wear on them to "burp out" fluid once or twice. The level is constant and it is not losing anymore. I had it out yesterday and ran it pretty hard. So far so good but I will keep an eye on it.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by sprad1970 View Post
                      I had all the lower seals replaced last fall and had it out once after. The boat mechanic says it is not uncommon for new seals with little wear on them to "burp out" fluid once or twice. The level is constant and it is not losing anymore. I had it out yesterday and ran it pretty hard. So far so good but I will keep an eye on it.
                      I don’t agree with your mechanics statement regarding new seals “ burping” fluid.
                      It is common after a drive service (drive lube r/r) for air to purge itself from the drive but it’d “burp” into the drive lube reservoir not into the water. To me this indicates a problem.
                      I’d suggest you monitor the drive lube closely, as in multiple times during use and prior to start up and especially after cool down.
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by builderdude View Post

                        I don’t agree with your mechanics statement regarding new seals “ burping” fluid.
                        It is common after a drive service (drive lube r/r) for air to purge itself from the drive but it’d “burp” into the drive lube reservoir not into the water. To me this indicates a problem.
                        I’d suggest you monitor the drive lube closely, as in multiple times during use and prior to start up and especially after cool down.
                        I agree with Dave and not the mechanic.
                        1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                        Mike

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Builderdude, there aren't any prop hubs on Bravo 3s? There is a SOLID connection from the props to the shaft? Are you sure? Because it would seem to guarantee a broken/stripped prop shaft when anything in the water gets hit (or a bottom strike).
                          Jeff Prime
                          "Optimystic Prime"
                          2000 Bayliner 2855 Ciera Sunbridge
                          Anacortes, WA

                          Comment


                          • builderdude
                            builderdude commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Solid hubs on OEM stainless B3 props, the engine coupler is the weak link.

                          #28
                          Originally posted by optimist_prime View Post
                          Builderdude, there aren't any prop hubs on Bravo 3s? There is a SOLID connection from the props to the shaft? Are you sure? Because it would seem to guarantee a broken/stripped prop shaft when anything in the water gets hit (or a bottom strike).
                          Dave is correct the Brave 3 props have solid hubs. With the prop shaft in a prop shaft required to have counter rotating props the forward props hub would have to be extremely large to accommodate a rubber breakaway. These prop shafts are very large and typically just the props get damaged.
                          1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                          Mike

                          Comment


                            #29
                            Yep, I looked it up and you guys are right... So the coupler has a rubber hub (that being the splined coupler on the rear of the flywheel) which would protect the drive train? When I had my engine out the mechanic recommended replacing the coupler, and I seem to remember the part was about $450. He showed me the worn splines, and said a new one was "cheap" insurance.
                            Jeff Prime
                            "Optimystic Prime"
                            2000 Bayliner 2855 Ciera Sunbridge
                            Anacortes, WA

                            Comment


                              #30
                              Originally posted by optimist_prime View Post
                              Yep, I looked it up and you guys are right... So the coupler has a rubber hub (that being the splined coupler on the rear of the flywheel) which would protect the drive train? When I had my engine out the mechanic recommended replacing the coupler, and I seem to remember the part was about $450. He showed me the worn splines, and said a new one was "cheap" insurance.
                              The coupler is there to protect the engine Incase the drive locks up. I haven’t priced one in awhile but that seems a little high. If the splines were worn then definitely change it.
                              1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                              Mike

                              Comment

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