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Winterizing question re: 2000 Bayliner-2859

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    #16
    If hoses in the engine bay (containing lake water) are freezing and pushing off thier fittings or possibly splitting then they should be drained or filled with an AF mixture. I do understand the OEM 1 1/4” supply hose from the transom assembly can’t really be drained as it’s likely just below the waterline on your 2859.
    One posability is installing a dedicated seacock for the incoming water supply to the raw water pump. The new seacock would also need to have an additional port directly above the shut off point for winterizing weather your draining the system down or filling it with AF.
    Imo draining it down is sufficient and I personally use a shop vac on everything I disconnect to help pull out any hidden water like the lowest hose that runs over to the ps cooler.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      #17
      Something similar to this maybe.
      Click image for larger version

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      http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/groco...08-457990.html
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #18
        Just to inject some reset for the OP. In Portland you are not likely to get enough below freezing days in a row to freeze a moored boat water system. If you diligently watch the weather, and drain/protect your freshwater system, your going to be fine. If you want to protect for that 1% chance, then this advice is definitely the way to go. I have a thermostatic heater in the hold that triggers on at 39 degrees, and I go down and take the boat out at least once a week, and if we get weather that stays below freezing during the day, which is extremely rare in the PNW, I run the boat every day its like that. I have to be diligent, but its not overly tough to keep tabs on (I'm only a mile from the marina, so that helps too).

        If you have the canvas, putting that on will also help a bit with keeping the heat loss down.
        97 2859

        Comment


        • builderdude
          builderdude commented
          Editing a comment
          Just to clarify:
          The op’s thread was jacked by coyote, everything after post 6 relates to a 2859 moored in lake water in north Idaho.
          A new thread should have been started.

        #19
        My apologies to the OP. I was very interested in the topic and wasn't seeing any action on it for 2 weeks, thus the hijack.
        Eastern Washington State (GO COUGS)
        Bayliner 2859 (North Idaho)
        7.4 Closed Cool Bravo 2
        Honda 15 with TR1 (best invention ever)
        Hewescraft 21' Searunner (Crabbing, Watersports, Salmon, in that order)
        Honda 130
        Honda 9.9

        Comment


          #20
          Originally posted by JThiessen View Post
          Just to inject some reset for the OP. In Portland you are not likely to get enough below freezing days in a row to freeze a moored boat water system.
          JThiessen, I also live near Portland (just east in Gresham). I have seen where temps (on the water) have dipped just enough for a good freeze....... and it may only take a long day for damage to occur!
          Just saying!




          Originally posted by Coyote
          My apologies to the OP. I was very interested in the topic and wasn't seeing any action on it for 2 weeks, thus the hijack.
          Well, I'm among the guilty who joined in on your Hi-Jack.
          But since YOU were the Hi-Jacker, we have no choice but to send you to the gallows.




          Actually, it is always best when we start a new thread for our own specific topic!
          Normally, one of us would have mentioned that after having seen post #6.

          So..... since we're this deep into it....... and since the OP has not returned...... I say that we continue!
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #21
            Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post

            Actually, it is always best when we start a new thread for our own specific topic!
            Normally, one of us would have mentioned that after having seen post #6.

            So..... since we're this deep into it....... and since the OP has not returned...... I say that we continue!
            Was thinking the same


            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #22
              Sooooooo, any thoughts to my idea of a single point drain in the raw water hose that runs from the raw water pump under the engine and up to the oil cooler? I would still, of course, plumb in a ball valve on the intake side of the pump.
              Eastern Washington State (GO COUGS)
              Bayliner 2859 (North Idaho)
              7.4 Closed Cool Bravo 2
              Honda 15 with TR1 (best invention ever)
              Hewescraft 21' Searunner (Crabbing, Watersports, Salmon, in that order)
              Honda 130
              Honda 9.9

              Comment


                #23
                Is the cooler mounted across the back of the engine just below the intake manifold interface to the block? If so I would be worried about the HE and elbows not full draining. Guess you can try pulling the hose off the raw water pump and when the water stops remove the hoses to elbows and see if water comes out. If it does what you suggest will not work.
                1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                Mike

                Comment


                  #24
                  This is a “full closed system”:
                  A single low point drain port on the discharge hose from the raw water pump over to the PS cooler would most likely drain the PS cooler and the HE but the supply hose to the raw water pump will still retain lake water as the impeller will not allow that hose to drain any water through to the discharge side. That supply hose would need its own type of shut off valve and low point drain fitting so it could be emptied. Also, because your “full closed cooled” and depending on how the raw water hoses are plumbed from the HE to the exhaust elbows they may possibly still retain some water. I'd also be concerned with small amounts of water remaining within the HE's tube bundle, the main reason I use a shop vac to ensure they and other areas are clear of any raw water when "winterizing".
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #25
                    Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
                    Is the cooler mounted across the back of the engine just below the intake manifold interface to the block? If so I would be worried about the HE and elbows not full draining. Guess you can try pulling the hose off the raw water pump and when the water stops remove the hoses to elbows and see if water comes out. If it does what you suggest will not work.
                    The cooler is port side about level with the top of the oil pan. I will investigate the elbows after draining down after the next outing.
                    Eastern Washington State (GO COUGS)
                    Bayliner 2859 (North Idaho)
                    7.4 Closed Cool Bravo 2
                    Honda 15 with TR1 (best invention ever)
                    Hewescraft 21' Searunner (Crabbing, Watersports, Salmon, in that order)
                    Honda 130
                    Honda 9.9

                    Comment


                      #26
                      I live in NE Florida, so I will be using my boat year round. We do get one or two hard freeze nights each year. What do you all do when you use the boat in the winter but there may be a O degree night?

                      Thanks
                      JAX, FL
                      2007 Bayliner 246 Mercruiser 5.7L 250HP I/O
                      Zodiac (WestMarine) 8.5’ inflatable 3HP Yamaha (SOLD)
                      1999 Trophy 2002 WA 150HP Mercury OB (SOLD
                      Starcraft 17’ Tri-hull (SOLD)

                      Comment


                        #27
                        I am a firm believer in manual valve system, electric solenoid s can and will fail, one solution would be 1st 1/4 turn valve in the inlet hoe coming from drive to raw pump, incorporate a T connection with garden hose adapter - + bras cap, - can be for fresh water flush or antifreeze, install a T with valve at the steering H. exchanger to drain. You will need to think of water trapped in the exhaust Lb. and install petcocks there.
                        Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                        96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

                        Comment


                          #28
                          With total drain using compressed air winterizing, how do I get rid of the water in the pockets at the bottom of the elbows? They are created by a blocking gasket that separates the elbow from fresh water cooled manifold (full FWC system ). Should I drill and tap some drain holes and put in threaded plugs at the bottom of the stainless steel elbows? Mine are similar to the one in the picture.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	DrainedElbow.jpg Views:	1 Size:	69.5 KB ID:	470371
                          Alex
                          1997 2859, 7.4 MPI, Bravo II
                          1993 2452, 5.7 Bravo II - SOLD

                          Comment


                            #29
                            Shop vac, use the T / hose to vacuum it out.
                            Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                            Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                            93 3058 sold
                            92 2855 (day boat)
                            91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                            Longbranch WA
                            Life is Good

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