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    Bayliner 245 trailer

    Hi All,

    i just bought a bayliner 245 sb its used 2003 year but it appears that the trailer below the boat is not correct. My question is does anyone know which trailer would fit this boat. The trailer is definitely long enough and can support the weight as its rated more than 6K pounds . here is some pics i have of the trailer. As you can see the the winch setup is not right i can probably change this but the boat doesn't seem to be sitting on the trailer correctly. It you look at the bunk setup the boat bunk is sitting on one of the water breaks that come out of the hull....sorry if im using the wrong terms. First boat. Does anyone think i can get this modified or should i get a new trailer. My concern is if the weight isnt distributed that the fiberglass hull can break

    #2
    Those lengthwise ridges on the hulls are strakes, and you're right, the trailer bunk shouldn't be on it. Usually the bunks on a trailer are easily adjusted by loosening the u-bolts clamping the brackets to the trailer crossmember.
    Your winch mount does look a little small and forward on the boat. Does the rear of your boat stick out past the trailer bunks?
    Esteban
    B-ham!
    Former Bayliners 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

    Comment


      #3
      Like green said, the bunks should be adjustable& your winch post needs work. Figure out how far out you need to move them, float the boat off and make the necessary adjustments then float her back on to test. Here's a pic of how the winch post should be in relation to the bow eye. Click image for larger version

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      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


      • builderdude
        builderdude commented
        Editing a comment
        also as green eluded to, the bunks should stick out aft of the transom a few inches.

      • Jeffw
        Jeffw commented
        Editing a comment
        To each his own, and with all due respect Dave, but I was told (and prefer) to have the transom sitting right on top of the rear bunk supports, even with the back end of the bunks. If those are U-bolted bunk brackets, they're relatively easy to adjust. But even solid welded brackets can be moved, I had it done not long ago.

      • Douggy
        Douggy commented
        Editing a comment
        The trailer that came with my 2003 245 has 4 sets of dual bunks that pivot tilt forward and back. The transom does not stick out much at all.

      #4
      Jeff, Id agree when referring to a flat bunk style trailer as the op apears to have, the flat bunk would be almost worthless if it hung out beond without any support under it. The beam style bunk can be cantilevered beond the support to some degree as its a much stouter piece of lumber. However I think we're on the same page here. What you want to avoid is the transom hanging out beond the trailer bunks, if it hangs out it puts the aft portion of distributed boat weight directly on the bottom of the hull instead of the much stronger transom area.

      Here's what I'm referring to as a beam style bunk. The additional bunk sticking out beond just ensures the transom will always be supported in the event the boat wasn't snugged up completely at the bow stop/roller. Click image for larger version  Name:	image.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	255.7 KB ID:	410257
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #5
        Wow thanks everyone for the responses. I greatly appreciate it. Here is a pic from the back. My concern is i can work on the trailer when it gets warm but its winter in Wisconsin and im worried that if the boat is sitting on the stracks that the fiberglass will crack from the weight. Any of you guys know is the fiberglass strong to support the weight if the boat is sitting on the stracks or should i take this in somewhere to get the boat lifted off the trailer so that i can fix it. Id put it in the water but the marinas are closed as its cold out. Thanks again everyone for the support i greatly appreciate it, as a new boater its awesome that there is such a supportive community.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #6
          If your comfortable relocating the bunks yourself I'd let it set for a bit. Id think there'd be more pressure on the strake while the boat is bouncing down the road behind your truck than sitting there, idk. You could lighten the load with some boat stands or get creative and build your own.
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by sk7499 View Post
            Wow thanks everyone for the responses. I greatly appreciate it. Here is a pic from the back. My concern is i can work on the trailer when it gets warm but its winter in Wisconsin and im worried that if the boat is sitting on the stracks that the fiberglass will crack from the weight. Any of you guys know is the fiberglass strong to support the weight if the boat is sitting on the stracks or should i take this in somewhere to get the boat lifted off the trailer so that i can fix it. Id put it in the water but the marinas are closed as its cold out. Thanks again everyone for the support i greatly appreciate it, as a new boater its awesome that there is such a supportive community.
            That boat is too far forward. Next time at the ramp, leave the boat transom at the back edge (or maybe an inch forward) of the bunk. Then have a proper winch stand built and installed to fit the bow eye. This will also help by not having to worry about the trim tabs. I can't tell where the bunks are in relation to the strakes, but you don't want the strakes straddling the bunks.
            Jeff & Tara
            (And Ginger too)
            Lake Havasu City, AZ

            2000 Bayliner 3388
            "GetAway"
            Cummins 4bta 250s

            In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

            Comment


              #8
              i wante dto revisit this topic. Any idea what size bow wheel i should use for the post i found a post that seems like it will fit but they have a 3 inch boaw wheel on it and i m not sure i might need a 5 inch

              Comment

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