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  • HueyCrew
    replied
    I have the Honda Handi-Portable 3000, Haven't used it yet. I bought it from a guy getting out of 5th wheel camping. For his demo he powered everything on in the 5th wheel and the 30 amp RV plug handled the load and he and I were able to speak in normal voice while standing beside it. Going to fabricate a mount on the swim platform and one up front. I have two 30 amp shore power outlets so at anchor in the daytime I'll connect to the HOUSE receptacle and at night swap over to the A/C ONLY receptacle to keep it cool enough to sleep and use the additional wall plug outlet on the gen to power my CPAP
    Last edited by HueyCrew; 10-02-2018, 12:04 PM. Reason: grammar

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  • pgiconch
    commented on 's reply
    You are correct -- those items will not work w/o shore power or generator. The reefer should work on the DC, but obviously you would want to ensure you were on the non-starting battery. I haven't found anyone yet that discussed putting a Genny on our particular vintage of the Ciera SB. I had to remove our Hot water heater because the unit was non-functional and the case rusted in several pieces when we bought it. While a Honda portable 2K Genny would fit in that area, I don't believe it would run much like the MW or AC. You would however get to use the outlet for charging phones, using small TV's, etc, and recharge the battery's if required.

  • JezzaC2655
    replied
    Originally posted by grandpa1955 View Post
    I appreciate the responses from everyone.

    Dupes noted with the battery switch in the OFF position, nothing is powered on the boat. I may be mistaken, but I think before I replaced the batteries with the battery switch OFF and shore power plugged in I did have power to the boat and could use the lights, microwave etc. But as I noted I may be mistaken there. I'm sure when I left the boat I had batteries off and shore power on and it at least charged the batteries.

    I'm concerned about the red light on the charger in the engine well (green light is off). Seems to me this indicates shore power is not charging the batteries. My concern is that the battery is being drained while at the dock, and that's the whole point of shore power right?

    Fortunately I do have the original Bayliner owners manual and manuals to all the equipment (fridge, stove, microwave, head etc). The boat is well documented. Unfortunately it hasn't been a great help and the wiring schematic in the owners manual only shows a single battery set up, not dual batteries.

    I will try to get more specific info posted on my boat as well as some pictures.

    By the way, I did get her launched and she runs like a top. Great to be back on the water. Thanks again for all the help.

    Rick
    Interesting, I had some tip off from other boaters. I did not cooncet my ups of 10amps anymore.
    I have directly switched on my battery charger on the switch board when I am at anchored, since then I have had better battery life then when I had her cooneceted, for whatever reason it drwas out more than I had expected and once in a while I have had to use my booster to start the engine. (new batteries). Ever since I hvae disconnected the unit, no probs, my engines would start right away,after a long day anchored at a bay, with the music on the whoel day.

    By teh way does everyone have a generator for offshore use to make sure that all the microwave, stove etc work when you are not at the marina. Mine works only at the marina when the power is connected, and only the radio , works when we are offshore; no microwave, range or even electricity for charging phone etc.

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  • JezzaC2655
    replied
    Originally posted by HueyCrew View Post
    Carpet Patterns needed...
    I'm pretty sure 88, 89 and 90 2655's are very similar in design. Other years might work for this request as well. Would anybody have the engine deck carpeting? More specifically the side pieces? The piece that covers the center hatch will be easy enough but If available I'd be grateful for paper-traced outline patterns of them. Have exhausted every online source I could find to buy the pieces or get patterns. I found a large center lid piece out of a 1989 and it looks right so I can cut new from it but it didn't have the narrow unique shaped side pieces.
    Thanks!
    Dave
    I just gave up on the carpeting, going to find the prices of those new style vynil self sticking floor mats. Hopefuly I can get some good qoutes and also right sizes.

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  • JezzaC2655
    replied
    Hi everyone,

    Very happy with the start of my season, I had a great week, cleaning, polishing and waxing my boat. Also did all the oil maintainance etc.

    I would like to change the fuel sender, doe any one know the fuel sender size for the tank or the tank size for the 1997 2655. I have serached everywhere for the manuel but cannot find the details.

    I am also going to check my speedometer as it does not work, for now using my gps as it shows the speed i travel at.

    Hope everybody is having a great time on the water.

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  • HueyCrew
    replied
    Carpet Patterns needed...
    I'm pretty sure 88, 89 and 90 2655's are very similar in design. Other years might work for this request as well. Would anybody have the engine deck carpeting? More specifically the side pieces? The piece that covers the center hatch will be easy enough but If available I'd be grateful for paper-traced outline patterns of them. Have exhausted every online source I could find to buy the pieces or get patterns. I found a large center lid piece out of a 1989 and it looks right so I can cut new from it but it didn't have the narrow unique shaped side pieces.
    Thanks!
    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • pgiconch
    replied
    Has anybody with a late 90's/early 00's Ciera 2655 put a hard top on in place of the Bimini?

    Leave a comment:


  • pgiconch
    commented on 's reply
    Another item of interest I read was both batteries will charge with #1, BOTH or OFF selected. Only battery #2 will charge with #2 selected. This contradicts what was said above. Can anyone confirm this?

    My charger outputs are connected directly to the batteries, so each is charged regardless of the MBSS position (electrically, this applies wheather the leads are actually connected at the battery post or the MBSS #1/#2 lugs). Don't know where you read the above, but you are correct that it doesn't agree with the info provided from your manuals, nor does it seem to make sense, unless it pertains to some other system arrangement. Good to hear that all is well and running like a top!! Sweet!

  • grandpa1955
    replied
    I did a little research tonight and found the manual for my battery charger on line. For the benefit of other 1996 Ciera owners with this charger (GUEST Charge PRO - Model #2610), here is what the lights mean as quoted from the manual:

    When the red LED is on, it indicates that your batteries are discharged and the 2610 is recharging them at the "BULK" rate (stage 1). This charging rate is 10 Amps. While the red LED is on, the voltage measured (with the charger on) will be 11.8 to 13 Volts.

    When both the green and the red LED’s are on, the 2610 is charging at an
    "ABSORPTION" rate of between 3 and 9 Amps (stage 2). This mode of charging gradually "tops off" your batteries, and reduces harmful sulfating. While both LED’s are on, the voltage measured (with the charger on) should be approx. 13.5 to 14.5VDC.

    When the green LED is on, the 2610 is charging at a "FLOAT” or “MAINTENANCE" rate of less than 3 Amps, (stage 3). Your batteries are now 90% charged and ready for use. This "float" charging current will gradually decrease to as low as 0.1 Amps as the batteries reaches 100% charge. They will now be kept at full charge without over-charging.


    Perhaps I just need to give it more time to charge the batteries eh?




    Here's something else I found useful when researching the battery charger and battery selector. Its copied from BOATTEST.com.

    Assuming your boat is of recent ABYC standard construction that means you’ve got two batteries, a 120 volt AC (shore power) charger, and one engine with an alternator. Your system works something like this: the battery you’ve selected powers all of your 12 volt DC systems - engine ignition, lights, electronics, stereo, etc.

    The alternator will charge your battery back through the switch, so the battery you’re using underway will be constantly recharged while the engine is running. Once you shut the engine down, the same battery will be providing power. If you’re hooked-up to shore power, both batteries will be recharged, regardless of where the switch is positioned, even if it’s in the “OFF” position.

    If the switch is in the “BOTH” position and one battery is nearly at a full charge and one is flat, the alternator will “read” the higher of the two, and the flat battery will never be charged.

    Now let’s say you’ve put the switch in the “BOTH” position and you’ve spent the day anchored, with the refrigerator on and the stereo blasting. After dinner you had lights on, and now you’re ready to head for home in the moonlight. You go to start the engine but you can’t since you’ve discharged both batteries. Nothing to do but call Sea-Tow!

    How do we prevent this? Use only one battery at a time. On odd days, use Battery #1, then use Battery #2 on even days. Assuming we’ve spent the same day on the water using Battery #1, at the end of the day we can use fully-charged Battery #2 to start the engine. Over the course of the season, you’ll use both batteries equally. NEVER use the “BOTH” position except to parallel both batteries if they’re both flat, almost like an attempt to “jump start” your own engine. And don’t forget to pay attention to the warning, which says, “Stop engines before switching “OFF”.

    Another option is to use battery #1 for starting, battery #2 at the dock. Use the BOTH position only if both batteries are flat and needs a jump. (May be time to replace batteries???)

    Another item of interest I read was both batteries will charge with #1, BOTH or OFF selected. Only battery #2 will charge with #2 selected. This contradicts what was said above. Can anyone confirm this?

    With the battery switch in the OFF position, all power is cut off to the boat except for the automatic bilge pump. This confirms what Dupes said in his post above.

    Rick

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  • grandpa1955
    replied
    Here are some pic of the battery switch and battery charger in the engine bay. On the close up of the battery charger, note the red light is on, green light is off.

    I also posted some pics of my boat BANDIT on my profile page.

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  • grandpa1955
    replied
    I appreciate the responses from everyone.

    Dupes noted with the battery switch in the OFF position, nothing is powered on the boat. I may be mistaken, but I think before I replaced the batteries with the battery switch OFF and shore power plugged in I did have power to the boat and could use the lights, microwave etc. But as I noted I may be mistaken there. I'm sure when I left the boat I had batteries off and shore power on and it at least charged the batteries.

    I'm concerned about the red light on the charger in the engine well (green light is off). Seems to me this indicates shore power is not charging the batteries. My concern is that the battery is being drained while at the dock, and that's the whole point of shore power right?

    Fortunately I do have the original Bayliner owners manual and manuals to all the equipment (fridge, stove, microwave, head etc). The boat is well documented. Unfortunately it hasn't been a great help and the wiring schematic in the owners manual only shows a single battery set up, not dual batteries.

    I will try to get more specific info posted on my boat as well as some pictures.

    By the way, I did get her launched and she runs like a top. Great to be back on the water. Thanks again for all the help.

    Rick

    Leave a comment:


  • pgiconch
    replied
    Rick (Grandpa) --

    +1 to both Dupes and Dave's input. I would add that besides the boat info, you may want to post a pic or two as it sometimes helps the experts here (not me) spot something unusual. If your wiring is still pretty much OEM, then the bilge pumps (float circuit), fire extinguisher ground, and possibly the VHF are connected to the battery directly as was my '98. Also possible the PO and/or mechanics have modified some items to their liking. I had to run my bilge pumps (using float switch) and pull the in line fuse to determine which pump stopped to determine which one was connected to which of my two batteries (easiest/fastest way).

    Welcome, and hoping your issue is minor.

    Another Dave....

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  • HueyCrew
    commented on 's reply
    I had a 1990 F 150, 4X4 that had a overdrive disconnect button on the end of the shift arm (auto) that from the factory was rated to pull 10,000 lbs although most will tell you just because it says it will there are limiting factors and it's not wise to get too close to that max if you want the truck to last. I dud pull a heavy popup camper, loaded with everything for a weekend at the beach Empty weight of the camper was around 3300 and with the cabinets, built in cooler and storage we estimated it around4500 lbs. Even in the mountains it pulled and handled like a champ. Like Grandpa1955 said the Sunbridge sits quite high and wide. I pulled mine home with my F350 and it was still intimidating at first. Coming out of the water I always put my vehicle in 4X4. Some ramps are slick so the added traction helps.

  • HueyCrew
    replied
    Originally posted by grandpa1955 View Post
    Shore power problem.

    I've been getting my 1996 Ciera 2655 ready for launch and hope to have her in the water after work today. Winter lasts way too long!

    The electrical system worked fine when I fist got the boat a couple years ago. I had the batteries replaced recently and ever since then there appears to be a problem with shore power. I get a green light on the electrical panel showing it is connected, but nothing is powered in the boat. (Lights, microwave, stove, water pumps... nothing works). Everything appears to work fine on battery power. The connections look good on the back of the electrical panel. There are a lot of wires going to the main battery and they are all unlabeled! (Not a great design).

    The battery charger on the forward bulkhead in the engine compartment has a red light illuminated, and a green light that is out.

    Any suggestions on what is going on? Was it improperly reconnected when the batteries were changed? Is there a circuit breaker I should be checking? If so where is it?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Rick
    Rick, first off WELCOME! This site is a gold mine of info and knowledgeable folks willing to lend their experience. I'm having great success with things I never thought I'd find myself doing to a boat thanks to this site and Y.T.U. You Tube Univ. LOL. One suggestion to "streamline" advice and info. On your profile page look around for the signature section (I think) and there type in all your info specific to your year/ model. Engine, add-on's even trailer and tow vehicle if you want. It'll get you model specific info from similar owners OR folks that have had similar experiences.
    On my '90 2655, some things are either shore power of 12v DC.
    some things are shore power only, like the charger, air condition, water heater and wall plugs. The fridge works off either one. Everything else is battery. One thing I'm changing up during my resto is that I'm wiring the VHF directly to the battery as well as the aft bilge pump and the horn. My thinking being that should I have an electrical fire/ catastrophic failure and have to shut electrical off in a hurry, I won't have to turn that system back on but still be able to call for help, signal with the horn and bail water.
    Regarding the unlabeled wires. If original, the owner/ operator's manual should, by color tell you what the wiring goes to. Another possibility is the rocker switch panel. I have my 2655 in pieces so I'm learning quite a lot. When I removed the switch panel from the dash the wire pairs actually had the original assembly line paper ID stickers attached to them and they were still readable! Good thing because the labeling on the panel (silkscreen I guess) was completely gone. I verified with the manual Bayliner sent me via email. your year may be in the manual section of their website in you don't have one. Happy cruising!
    Dave

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  • Dupes
    replied
    If the battery switch is off then nothing will work on the boat. Also once the battery switch is turned on make sure all the breakers for the items you need shorepower for are also on. FYI- An example is the radio works on 12V not shorepower and will only work if battery switch is on.Hope this helps.

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