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    #31
    So this shot is looking up from below. The snaps you see are for the retaining straps that hold the curtain when its rolled up. The valence here is wrapped with white vinyl, with a fabric trim piece stapled to it.
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    Shot looking at the valence. Notice the snap down at the bottom side of the window - two of these per curtain panel.
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    Mounting strip for the valence. The screws that hold the curtain in place also fasten to this.
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    Here is a shot with the curtains down by the table. You can see the shadows of the retaining straps dangling down behind the curtains
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    97 2859

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      #32
      Doug thanks for the picture, would like to find a different location, but not jet.
      Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
      96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

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        #33
        Thanks JT!


        Yes, there's a valence above each window with male snaps screwed looking up at the underside. We do have the vinyl curtain for the bathroom, so I'll probably dust off the sewing machine and youtube some videos on how to sew lol!
        Marc
        2001 2859, 350 Merc MPI, "Bravo Zulu" South Haven, MI

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          #34
          Yup! Bit of time on the internet and im sure you will find some info on that somewhere bravozulu! Im lucky the wife is great at that kind of thing and loves doing it. She did the whole interior herself. Curtains cushions flooring headboard in the v birth and the bathroom.
          Doug
          1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
          The Doghouse
          Prince George BC

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            #35
            Could someone who has removed the concrete from
            the stern quarter post
            again how to do it and what it takes in the way of time
            and tools. There were some posts before with pictures.
            I'd like to determine if it would be worth doing. How
            much does weight translate to fuel/speed efficiency?
            1994 2859 in Tacoma, WA
            7.4 Mercruiser
            Still learning about other systems
            and specs.

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              #36
              Ok, 1. remove Battery's move trim pump out of the way, no need to remove hoses, I moved water heater slightly forward, not required, just my thing transferring weight. 2. I cut the opening so that a 2inch + lip was left to glass the plywood back in, from the ports outside stay at least 4 inches, mark the area to be cut so the cut will be straight you will need some of that to reinstall, now when cutting plan on going no more than 0.50 inch down on the out side ( the hull slops up ) if you cut that you will have a leak. For cutting saws all, jig saw with a block of wood as a spacer, muffler cutter, I have a Snap On Air saw. COVER every thing in the compartment with plastic, perhaps rig a exhaust fan to suck dust out, recommend a shop vac. gobs of dust can be expected, for tools to get the concrete out, A hammer drill and air chisel get several bits there going to be needed. So when drilling and chopping the concrete remember there is a fiberglass hull under there, tale a shallow layer out at a time, note I found fiberglass woven material imbedded in the concrete, so don't be alarmed.
              Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
              96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

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                #37
                So to continue this story, ones you will have removed most of the concrete there will be bits sticking on edges and corners, dig them out - enjoy- > so all clean and vacuumed out, yes, so now sand the inside of the hull 40 or 80 grid sand paper. Why well just in case you have impacted the layer of fiberglass that is the hull, my recommendation is to laminate in MIN 2 layers of 1.5 OZ of fiberglass MA. Auto stores to Wahl Mart will have it, I like Epoxy for the resin, just better! Put a coating of mixed resin down ( the instruction for the mix should be on the can, O get some gloves and remember ventilation, so with the resin down and wet lay your 1st layer of mat in take a cheep brush cut of the outer potion of the bristles of, this is a tool for pushing the mat in to the corners, add more resin over the top, Now repeat with the 2nd layer and brush out the resin as if your painting the front door, Not White pigment can be added to the last bunch of mixed resin to male it nice.
                Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

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                  #38
                  Excellent! Thanks.
                  1994 2859 in Tacoma, WA
                  7.4 Mercruiser
                  Still learning about other systems
                  and specs.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    As you will see I added a hatch, why, I might needed down the road, I get my hatches from Great Lakes Skipper I like there service and price. Now open to questions and to the arm chair supervisors, let me know what I missed, need to go plow Snow now, till later Fritz
                    Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                    96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

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                      #40
                      Picture with new hinges
                      Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                      96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Its a messy job like fritzman says but once its done you will need to glass in a new deck on top of whats left or put a hatch in if you desire. I just glassed in a new deck right over top of what was left. Then remounted the water heater trim pumps and i moved over the house battery to that side along with the start battery and a new kicker motor.

                        the extra battery and new kicker are approx the same weight as the concrete you removed.........thats why you remove it. No need to add another 180 lbs!

                        Doug
                        1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
                        The Doghouse
                        Prince George BC

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                          #42
                          Yep, once I pulled the mud out of my 2556 it listed good to starboard. The remedy was to mount my house bank (3 group 27's) on the port side box and put my start batt on starboard box. Sits level now
                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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                            #43
                            On my vessel I mounted a 15HP on the port side and still moved the battery's to starboard, I have lots of tools on the boat so a little fine tuning in not a problem.
                            Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                            96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Had the boat out last week and finished up installation of the new Garmin system by installing the new CV51M transducer on the transom.
                              Good News: The old CV20 transducer was my issue - ran out to 650 feet and it was still showing the bottom! For those that dont recall from the old thread, my screen would blank out at the 200 ish foot mark. Sometimes powering off//on would solve it, other times not. Got shallow water alarms everywhere. SO found a good deal on a 9" Garmin set up, with a more powerful transducer. I saw my first fish arches!!!
                              The BAD news: When I pulled one of the screws for the old transducer, had water come out. Found a bit more wet wood in a couple other spots, but nothing too soft to hold a screw. Ended up pulling all the screws on transom, reapplying seal, and reinstalling. Not sure at this stage how much I'm going to worry about it. My guess is 90% of the boats out there have wet hulls to some degree.....just an unsubstantiated theory to save me time and money now to pay more later.....
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                              97 2859

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                                #45
                                Also had a bit of time to work on the upper shelf brackets. The original ones were little 1" long L brackets, and the bottom hole was right at the shelf level. Not horrible for installing the ones along the center, but the two on each end caused hours of grief. Replaced them with some 2 1/2" brackets, and added a couple additional holes so I can make sure I can hit the mounting blocks.
                                97 2859

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