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TOPIC: 3288 With Hinos

3288 With Hinos 24 Jun 2009 19:53 #1

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Hello I'm a new member to the forum. We re thinking of moving up to a 3288 Bayliner with the hinos and am wondering what some of you think we should look out for before we go as far as a survey
Thanks John

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3288 With Hinos 24 Jun 2009 20:47 #2

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Great boat... A friend of mine has one and I use it too. Hino's are pretty much bullet proof. Nothing out or the ordinary to watch with them. My buddy set up auto oil change and installed dripless shaft bearings.

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"Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


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3288 With Hinos 24 Jun 2009 21:39 #3

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This is from a previous post on checking the 310 Hino's -- there are many similarities between the two. Hope this helps.

When we used the lists we would leave a bunch of room around these items so Ron could put notes there as needed. Here is what we would use as a mental reminder on the Hino’s:

Fill in engine serail number, in each section below ask what is new/serviced

Harmonic balancer
$ integrity
$ leaks

Raw water pump
$ leaks
$ hoses

water separators
$ on engine
$ on Racors if equipped

Oil cap and cover
$ inspection inside w/mirror
$ wipe underside of valve cover w/finger

Coolant cap & tank
$ leaks
$ overflow bottle sediment
$ wipe X-changer bundle through cap, check for mud

Oil pan
$ corrosion
$ where the oil change tube goes

Manicooler
$ original
$ leaks
$ condition of paint where the runners meet the head

Glow plug circuit
$ Full cycle time
$ no signs of corrosion

Wiring
$ integrity
$ all gages/alarms work

Bolts fasteners
$ note which have been removed
$ injectors
$ heads
$ manicooler
$ other

Injection pump
$ Any crimp caps compromised
$ leaks
$ corrosion

Intercoolers
$ inspection port residue
$ leaks
$ hoses
$ Air side hoses and leaks







Turbo
$ inspection of radial play
$ oil leak behind compressor wheel
$ Boost if available
$ How much paint is on at manicooler/turbo interface
$ leak near coolant return line (hard line top)
$ Leak near oil return (bottom)

Exhaust elbow
$ Cast Iron/ other
$ If cast, one piece or two (one is better and newer version)
$ check at packing hose tube outlet
$ Check drain fitting

Transmission
$ write down number and ratio
$ pull stick and wipe on pure white paper towel
$ pull filter and look on inside for particles
$ note age condition of coolers
$ note if coolers are zinc equipped

Engine mounts
$ condition of all 4 static
$ angle of 4
$ condition of motor mount brackets and affixing to stringers
$ check mounts again under way (use caution)


shafts/packing
$ type
$ condition
$ alignment under way (take a short motion pic if possible)
$ is salt spray being ingested
$ any signs of scoring on shafts


Try and take good digital pictures of any and all the items you are interested in because even if you are not sure of something you may be able to post them later in and someone will hopefully be able to help. We would also take pictures of the engine gages on cold engine, running engine, and warm engine at idle for future reference since it was faster and clearer then writing it down. On these engines a cold engine (say like 55degrees) will show a bunch of white smoke even with the glow plugs on start up unless they have pre-heaters installed and on. The white smoke should clear in 1 to 2 minutes even though it may seem like forever. After warm up they should show little or no smoke from there on out.
Hope this helps

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Northport NY

3288 With Hinos 25 Jun 2009 18:40 #4

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Thanks for the tips
If anyone has additional ideas for structural concerns i should be aware of i'd appreciate any advice
Thanks again
John

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