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TOPIC: Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 01:43 #1

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I pulled my boat out of the water yesterday night, and when I pulled it, it had no leak.
All I did was clean the boat inside and out. I put the boat back in the water about 2 hours ago and put it on my slip.
I was in the engine bay for another reason when I heard a good water leak. The water seems to be coming from the bottom of the flywheel housing. When I lift the outdrive all the way up the leak almost stops. When I put it back down it starts leaking worse again.
So I went to pull the boat out again and the winch strap broke, so I left it on the dock. The boat is new to me and I was leaving it on the slip for the rest of the season so I did not fix the strap right away when I noticed it failing when i pulled the boat yesterday. Now the boat is still in the water for the night. It is to late to get a strap tonight and I think it will be fine till morning.

Where is it leaking from? any ideas?

I will pull the boat tomorrow morning.

I cant think of why it started all of a sudden like that. I inspected the bellows when I bought it and they looked like they were brand new.


1986 2550 5.7 Volvo penta 280



Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 01:59 #2

  • BrooklynJim
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one of 2 things happened

1) lifting the outdrive stretch and pulled the driveshaft bellow off the clamp allowing it to shift and let water in when the outdrive is in the lowered position

or 2) the drive bellow is probably torn, and you made a mistake leaving it in the water overnight with a torn bellow, many a boats have met the muddy bottom of the marinas that way



hurry and get the boat out of the water!!!

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Bayliner 3270
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Twin Crusader CH220's
(repowered)
Important Notice"
DUE TO RECENT BUDGET CUTS, STOCK MARKET PERFORMANCE, RISING COST OF ELECTRICITY, GAS AND OIL...
THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL HAS BEEN TURNED OFF....
WE APOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVENIENCE
Regards
THE GOVERNMENT
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Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 02:01 #3

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you have a bilge pump that is working, right?
shore power and a battery charger, right?

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Tally and Vicki
"Wickus" Meridian 341
MMSI 338014939

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 02:08 #4

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yes and yes

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 02:13 #5

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BrooklynJim;313978 wrote: one of 2 things happened

1) lifting the outdrive stretch and pulled the driveshaft bellow off the clamp allowing it to shift and let water in when the outdrive is in the lowered position

or 2) the drive bellow is probably torn, and you made a mistake leaving it in the water overnight with a torn bellow, many a boats have met the muddy bottom of the marinas that way



hurry and get the boat out of the water!!!



OK. Now I am leaving and going back to the boat.

I did tie a rope as a safety, to stop the outdrive from falling while I towed it 3 miles to the marina. Maybe I pulled the rope to tight and lifted the outdrive to high and it pulled off the bellow.




Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 03:30 #6

  • dslater
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If it were the exhaust or Ujoint bellows, I would think it would leak MORE with the drive up. Check your shift cable. It runs through a house in the transom housing. It could be the packiing is loose and is being pulled or pushed to almost seal when up, but when down opens up and is allowing water to flow through the hose. I learned the hard way, that the hose that the shift cable runs through must rise (at some point) higher than the water level outside. I my case it didn't make any difference whether it was up or down because my packing was completely gone...but if the packing is in there, raising or lowering the outdrive will move the shift cable some amount through the packing and like I said it may be moving the packing enough to leak MORE when the outdrive is down. Just a thought.

Also check the hose and connection on the pipe carrying water from outside to inside the boat. There is a hose that connects to it inside that goes to the raw water pump. Could be that with the outdrive "up" the water inlet on the outdrive is high enough to avoid water entering the cooling system, but with the outdrive down, water freely enters. Again...just a thought.

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Dave Slater
Fairbanks, Alaska
'78 Fiberform 23' Baja hardtop
(almost a Bayliner)

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 03:51 #7

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I just came back from the boat. I lowered the outdrive and lifted it back up. When it was back up, It seemed to me that it was leaking more with the drive back up after I lowered it again than it was with the drive up when I left. And if the drive was to fall it would leak real bad. I do not know this boat good enough to say the drive would stay up all night, so I decided to pull the boat.

After I got the boat up, I looked at it as good as I could with a flashlight in the rain:prod, and it seemed to be running off the lower bellow (medium size one). It also looked like it could have been coming from the hose right above it and running down. But that was the water that was inside the boat coming out. It was coming in the boat from the bottom of the flywheel housing. The bellows all looked good and tight from what I could see, but I will need to take a closer look in the daylight to say for sure.

At least now I can sleep tonight.




Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 04:20 #8

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yay bellows

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Ryan
Hastings, Minnesota

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1999 Bayliner Ciera 3055
Twin Mercruiser 5.7L Bravo 2[/FONT]
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Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 10:13 #9

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Randy if your talking about the 86 bayliner it has a V ring seal
at the stearing fork this could be your leak

How i no mine is leaking now

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Any Boat A Good Boat
Some just cost more
86 2850 twins 275
Lake ST.Clair MI.

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 10:20 #10

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2qwk;314022 wrote: I just came back from the boat. I lowered the outdrive and lifted it back up. When it was back up, It seemed to me that it was leaking more with the drive back up after I lowered it again than it was with the drive up when I left. And if the drive was to fall it would leak real bad. I do not know this boat good enough to say the drive would stay up all night, so I decided to pull the boat.

After I got the boat up, I looked at it as good as I could with a flashlight in the rain:prod, and it seemed to be running off the lower bellow (medium size one). It also looked like it could have been coming from the hose right above it and running down. But that was the water that was inside the boat coming out. It was coming in the boat from the bottom of the flywheel housing. The bellows all looked good and tight from what I could see, but I will need to take a closer look in the daylight to say for sure.

At least now I can sleep tonight.




Randy



hey randy

so how much water was in her? was it justified to take her back out? i relied on a bilge pump to maintain the boat afloat one night, i did that ONCE, was leaking from an AC thru hull, leak got worse during the night, making the pump work more, and more, and more... which killed the batteries, when i got there at 6 the next day, she was listing heavily to port, the dock lines were holding her but i think 2-3 more hours and she wouldve been under, that little adventure cost me the fridge, battery charger, and inverter

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Bayliner 3270
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Twin Crusader CH220's
(repowered)
Important Notice"
DUE TO RECENT BUDGET CUTS, STOCK MARKET PERFORMANCE, RISING COST OF ELECTRICITY, GAS AND OIL...
THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL HAS BEEN TURNED OFF....
WE APOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVENIENCE
Regards
THE GOVERNMENT
[/SIZE]

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 10:47 #11

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With the outdrive up, it is a steady drip with not even a second between the drips. With the outdrive down, it comes in much more, maybe a gallon every couple of minutes, kind of hard to judge. I pulled it because I was conserned that if I pulled the bellow away, that the drive might fall, and the leak get much worse. If I didn't pull it I would not have been able to sleep.


Whatever it is, it is getting water in the flywheel housing. I will be going down there shortly to take a better look. Hopefully the rain stops this morning, it has been a week and I can't take much more.






Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 12:58 #12

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Well the upper bellow (largest one) looks like it is perfect. I cant see the whole top of it, but it looks almost new.

I did find the cable. It is possible that it could be coming in from there.

1.) If the water was coming in from the cable, would it put the water into the flywheel housing?

2.) Can anyone give me some type of list, of what would let water in the flywheel housing if it was leaking?

I don't think that the lower bellow or the hose for the water pick up, would allow the water to get into the flywheel housing if it were leaking. I think if those were leaking it would come in from somewhere else. But then again, I don't know that for sure.




Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 13:34 #13

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Randy, My suggestion for you would be to pull the transmission from the drive.
It is very simple.

Drain the oil.
Remove the helmet pin. (heat is your friend on any fastener that may have corrosion)
Lift/tilt the helmet up fully.
Loosen the large bellows band clamp.
Remove two vertical cap screws and two hex nuts that hold the trans in place.
Remove shift arm from the eccentric cylinder (do not leave it attached, it's just too easy for this piece to bend/break the brass eccentric cylinder clevis pin eye).
Pull the set pin so the drive can fall all the way DOWN (this gives you more working room).
Lift the transmission up/turn sideways/remove (since it may be wet, you may fight some rust holding the Yoke onto the PDS splines).

Now you can see what damage has occurred within the bellows.

This is one part that needs routine replacement rather than an external inspection...... they are simply to inexpensive to NOT replace routinely.

Now, since water was coming from inside of the Flywheel Cover, you no doubt have water damage to the Primary Drive Shaft bearings.
These need to be replaced anyway if no history of them having been replaced............. it is a no brainer.

When/If this were to fail, they fail while up on plane...... usually resulting in severe bellows "snout" and U joint shaft damage..... sometimes even taking the front of the transmission clamping collar with it.............. this is always UGLY and Expensive!

Unfortunately, the engine must come out on this model..... however, these are among the easiest engines to remove.
If you are capable, have all of the parts ready to go......., it can all be done in a day!
You can leave the F/C in the boat still connected to the transom shield if you want to. In fact, that may be the way to go so you do not have to deal with the F/C clamping ring bolts!

Bearings/seals from a bearing supplier will run you about $35/40.
I can give you p/n's when ready!

While you are in there, double check the condition of the shift cable "Sheathe" where it makes the connection to the transom shield.
Often this factory "crimp sleeve" becomes rusted, and the hose will loose tension against the fitting. Now you have a water leak!
Do NOT try to remove the fitting from the shield.

Cut the hose to gain fresh material..... re-install using some sealant and an all SS clamp of the correct diameter for the hose O.D.


.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 13:38 #14

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Randy, had your thread title included the key words; "Volvo Penta AQ 260 leak at F/C" or ???........, I would have seen this earlier!

.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 14:36 #15

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2850Bounty;314101 wrote: Randy, had your thread title included the key words; "Volvo Penta AQ 260 leak at F/C" or ???........, I would have seen this earlier!

.



Rick I think if I put Volvo Penta alone in the title I would have gotten a much faster response from you.Lol.


OK. So this drive system does not have your traditional gimbal bearing set-up I see.

1.) I figure that if the water is not coming from a faulty upper bellow than it must be coming from the cable. correct? Those are the only 2 places it could be leaking to get water coming out of the Flywheel cover?

2.) Regardless the engine will need to be removed and the bearings replaced. correct?

Pulling the engine is going to be a problem. The radar arch is right in the way. I suppose you can remember my method for lifting these engines. Rope, tree, jeep.Lol.

3.) If I lifted the outdrive and put some silicone around the cable where it enters the transom and dipped the boat on the trailer I could see if that stops the water and I would know for sure if it is or is not leaking from the cable. But that is probably just a waist of time if I am right about the questions above.

Rick I would greatly appreciate it, if you would give me the part #s for the bearings so i can get them.

4.) These bearings are different from a regular merc or omc bearing. Meaning I would get them from a local bearing shop not just buy a gimbal bearing for that app. from my local marine parts supplier, like I did when I changed them on the other models (omc and mercruiser)?

1986 5.7lt Chevy Volvo Penta 280 outdrive



Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 15:27 #16

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2qwk;314124 wrote:
OK. So this drive system does not have your traditional gimbal bearing set-up I see.

1.) I figure that if the water is not coming from a faulty upper bellow than it must be coming from the cable. correct? Those are the only 2 places it could be leaking to get water coming out of the Flywheel cover?

2.) Regardless the engine will need to be removed and the bearings replaced. correct?

Pulling the engine is going to be a problem. The radar arch is right in the way. I suppose you can remember my method for lifting these engines. Rope, tree, jeep.Lol.

3.) If I lifted the outdrive and put some silicone around the cable where it enters the transom and dipped the boat on the trailer I could see if that stops the water and I would know for sure if it is or is not leaking from the cable. But that is probably just a waist of time if I am right about the questions above.

Rick I would greatly appreciate it, if you would give me the part #s for the bearings so i can get them.

4.) These bearings are different from a regular merc or omc bearing. Meaning I would get them from a local bearing shop not just buy a gimbal bearing for that app. from my local marine parts supplier, like I did when I changed them on the other models (omc and mercruiser)?

1986 5.7lt Chevy Volvo Penta 280 outdrive. Randy


That is correct! No Gimbal affair with this style drive suspension.

1.) That is possible! If the cable sheathe is leaking, it will not come from within the F/C.

2.) Yep! Sad as that may be! :(

3.) Take a dry paper towel and wipe the area where the sheathe is connected to the shield. If I have to explain that one further, You're in trouble! :kidding

Single piece F/C or the two piece F/C?
If single, p/n 6206 & 6007
Seals = 35x62x7mm
Pre-fill the cavity before installing the seals! Spin shaft while doing so.
A good high pressure bearing grease.... preferably not green marine grease! IMO.


4.) Again, this is not a Gimbal affair.
These bearings are of an electric motor quality bearing, SKF would be a good choice!
They are OPEN bearings and can be purchased from any major bearing supplier.
Seals will take a few days for them to bring in.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 15:45 #17

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Rick,
Thanks so much for all the info. And to everyone else as well.

I am going to dip the boat in a little while and take a mirror and a flashlight and see if I can see exactly where the water is running down from. Someone mentioned to me that there is a large o-ring seal that could be leaking. I will do it on the trailer. I would be much happier if I could see where it is leaking from before I ripped it apart.



Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 16:25 #18

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Randy, use the paper towel method.
If any water is coming from within the flywheel cover, then it is very likely the PDS from a bad drive shaft bellows.
This is nothing to Foo Foo if it is!
IMO, You need to pull the boat, remove the transmission and inspect! While in there, install new bellows...... they are not expensive!

A repair NOW will be:

The cost of bellows.
Four O rings.
One fill plug gasket.
New oil.
PDS bearings/seals.
A tube of grease!
New U joint crosses.
And your labor for the work.

A repair later will be:

The cost of new bellows
A new flywheel cover ($450 + - used)
Four O rings.
One fill plug gasket.
New oil.
New bearings/seals.
A tube of grease.
New U joint crosses.
And your now more labor!
And if you were not lucky, a U joint shaft and front transmission clamping collar.


Look at the flywheel cover to the right of this image. It has been bead blasted, but you can see what happened to this person's flywheel cover from a bearing/shaft explosion.
While I do not show his transmission, it also became damaged during this failure. The cost to this owner was about $2,500 total.

BTW, the two piece F/C of the left is schematically and dimensionally the same.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 18:29 #19

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2850Bounty;314187 wrote: Randy, use the paper towel method.
If any water is coming from within the flywheel cover, then it is very likely the PDS from a bad drive shaft bellows.
This is nothing to Foo Foo if it is!
IMO, You need to pull the boat, remove the transmission and inspect! While in there, install new bellows...... they are not expensive!

A repair NOW will be:

The cost of bellows.
Four O rings.
One fill plug gasket.
New oil.
PDS bearings/seals.
A tube of grease!
New U joint crosses.
And your labor for the work.

A repair later will be:

The cost of new bellows
A new flywheel cover ($450 + - used)
Four O rings.
One fill plug gasket.
New oil.
New bearings/seals.
A tube of grease.
New U joint crosses.
And your now more labor!
And if you were not lucky, a U joint shaft and front transmission clamping collar.


Look at the flywheel cover to the right of this image. It has been bead blasted, but you can see what happened to this person's flywheel cover from a bearing/shaft explosion.
While I do not show his transmission, it also became damaged during this failure. The cost to this owner was about $2,500 total.

BTW, the two piece F/C of the left is schematically and dimensionally the same.



Rick, Heading down to the boat shortly. It looks like the rain is letting up:D.

What you just posted is what I plan on doing. I hope I can get the parts in stock around here somewhere.

I will let you know how I make out...........

Thanks again Rick........


Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 24 Jun 2009 23:31 #20

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I have found the culprit.

I did what you said Rick and removed the trans.

I guess the bellows were not as new as I thought. After pulling the drive bellow I found a large hole all the way up front on the top. That would explain why it leaked less with the drive up, it crunched the top of the boot together when in the up position. I will try to find the bellows and gaskets for the trans tomorrow.

As far as the bearings go. The boat was only in the water with the bellow leaking for about three hours and was only driven 30 yards or so.
I really do not want to pull the engine now:prod.

I would like to grease the bearings and put the drive back together and call it a day.
What do you think?


Thanks Again,

Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 25 Jun 2009 12:34 #21

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2qwk;314365 wrote:

  1. As far as the bearings go. The boat was only in the water with the bellow leaking for about three hours and was only driven 30 yards or so. I really do not want to pull the engine now. :prod
  2. I would like to grease the bearings and put the drive back together and call it a day. What do you think?

  1. You may only THINK it was leaking for this short period!

  2. See post # 18 again! I maintain that you need to replace these. Look at the photo again and the F/C to the right! I've got more of these broken ones that I could take photos of for you if that would help you! :rolleyes:
I know, I know..... not what you wanted to hear, right?
I can't blame you for not wanting to pull the engine....... I wish that this would come out the rear for you!
Consider the results if these do fail while you are on plane!


Just late yesterday a young man brought a '91 Larson w/ an AQ 230 (OHC 4) over for a transmission replacement. He let his bellows leak and it took out the single bearing. He narrowly escaped an explosion.
Good news is, his shaft/bearing easily came out AFT.


I received a transmission from FedEx day before yesterday...... it did have damage from a bearing/shaft explosion. The repair is going to cost him about $1,200 not including what he is doing on his end in Florida.




Edit
P.S. I also want to mention that if you were to have a failure that took out the flywheel cover bellows snout, the bellows now has nothing to seal against.
When you slow down..... and YOU WILL, this area is now at/below the water line.
Now we have water entering the hull at a much faster rate than it had been previously due to the now larger opening around the PDS and bore in the flywheel cover.
Your Insurance Company adjusters (if they have any real sharp guys/gals on board) will know of this problem, and would likely deem this incodent as a lack of routine maintenance once they determine the cause........, particularly now that this information is on the BOC forum under your name.
I guess if you sink her, it better be in very deep water!

.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 25 Jun 2009 13:09 #22

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Of course, not what I wanted to hear, but I new it was coming.

I want to put it back together, take it a 1/4 mile up river to are fireworks spot on the 4th, and then take it out right after that and pull the engine.

If I run into a problem with the engine out and the boat doesn't make it back in the water for the 4th, I will ruin about 6 peoples 4th of July plans including my wife and daughter. I know I should do it now, but I think it will be ok for that little trip.

I was also in the engine bay 10 minutes before I pulled the boat out and it was not leaking. As soon as I put the boat back in and went in the engine bay I could hear the water running in right away. It must of ripped when I lifted the outdrive to pull it out or when I lowered it after I put it back in.

I know the right thing is to pull the engine now, but if we miss the fireworks it will ruin my whole boating season. It is my families favorite thing to do with the boat.

I am willing to risk it:arr, wish me luck.........

Thanks so much Rick for all your help, and hopefully I don't need help getting a trans soon:D


Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 25 Jun 2009 16:17 #23

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Former 2452 Owner
Lucky C's

Need Help Asap, Boat Leaking 25 Jun 2009 16:46 #24

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Ags8th;314632 wrote: Randy - Stay out of the news nex week.

http://news.bostonherald.com/news/regional/view/20090625boater_missing_near_salisbury_beach/srvc=home&position=recent


Very sad, I have been watching the story on the local news. Merrimack river mouth at night, rough conds, on the jettis. I am surprised anyone survived. This will be one of many stories I here about the mouth this Summer. Hopefully I can get threw this season without any stories of my own from the mouth. I have plenty horror stories from there trying to get my lobsta traps in bad weather.

The leak on my boat will be fixed and I am going a very short distance.The spot that we anchor for the FW display is a 1/4 mile or less from my slip. 12 miles up river from the Merrimack River mouth. Where I am going, everyone on the boat could swim to shore without a problem and there will be 50 boats within 50 yards of me.

I would not think of going out to sea, let alone cross the bar, before I have much more test time on the river with this boat and all repairs and pre maintanance is done to my satisfaction.




Randy

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1986 2550 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge Designer Edition.
FWC 5.7lt Volvo Penta 260hp, VP 280 drive, w/ bow thruster
____
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera Sunbridge
5.7lt OMC Cobra
____
1984 Cruiser Inc. 26' Vee Sport
Twin FWC 260hp OMC 5.7lt 800 stringer drives
____
1984 20' Checkmate Enchanter
Mercury...
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