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TOPIC: Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa

Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 12:36 #1

  • stimie02
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I am in the process of repowering my boat and was hoping for a little advice. In the attached photos I have seperated the block from everything pertinent for removal including the motor mounts. My question is will I need to remove the outdrive in order to pull the engine or can I seperate it from the outdrive inside of the engine compartment. The first picture shows where I am talking about. The second and third shots just shows the engine compartment a little better and where I am talking about. Hope that makes sense. Any advice, suggestions, or comments would be appreciated as this is my first time working with an I/O. Thanks in advance.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/311967=6732-Items to be sold 011.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/311967=6730-Items to be sold 012.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/311967=6731-Items to be sold 013.jpg

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 13:27 #2

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Now would be a good time to renew the PDS bearings and change the bellows, check the crosses, new water neck, shift cable and anything else that looks suspect. Are you repowering with the same eng? You don't have to pull the drive, just the trans. Search PDS bearings and you will find a ton of info here.

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 14:15 #3

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stimie02,
I see only one question in your thread here... and at that, I'm not sure that I understand all of it........ but I'll take a stab here for you. I think there is actually a few more, or should be.


I'd say yes..... remove the drive transmission now and make this easy for when you go back together with the new engine. You need only remove the transmission at this time.

Thus far, you've done pretty much what I would have done given the same project.

Ditto Wayne on this: Definitely pull the PDS and replace the bearings with new "open" bearings. Cost is about $35 if you buy from a bearing supplier, and don't get gouged at a marina..........
However, someone has replaced that Flywheel Cover at one time. That is a newer style and may have only a single bearing... check this......... but I do see a Zirk fitting which may indicate two bearings.
Post back.... I can give you #'s.

Since you do have the Zirk on the F/C, I'd install an eighteen inch grease gun extension hose into the Zirk fitting threads ($6 at auto parts store.... $1.50 for an 1/8" coupler).
Prime the cavity (while spinning the shaft) with a good high pressure bearing grease until you see it come through the bearing.... ONLY NOW do you nstall the two new seals.

When back in the boat, bring this extension hose up and connect it to/near your throttle cable bracket so it will be seen and become part of your P/M scheme!

NOTE: If going to a later engine, the F/W must be the smaller 153 tooth ring gear. (straight bolt pattern on the starter motor)
Have you built the new engine yet? There are some does/don'ts to these.


When re-installing the engine, you've got two choices that will be decided via how much space you have to work with.
A) F/C connected onto the engine first, then the engine w/ the F/C go into the boat and transom shield.
B) F/C installed first into the transom shield, then engine in and connected to the F/C.
I'd do so with the F/C attached to the engine, but I'd not completely tighten the clamping ring bolts until the engine is aligned for the Exhaust and front mounts.
After this, you can tighten those six bolts.
You'll want at least one new large rubber cushion ring for the inside seal against the F/C...... (this is the one that does the sealing........ not the aft rubber cushion at the clamping ring.)

DO NOT use any Never-Seize or Anti-Seize products of the automotive version on any "below water line" fasteners! Engine nuts/bolts, Yes.... good stuff!


You did mention engine mounts.... Best to keep these bolted to the engine, and deal with the Lag Screws at the stringer towers, IMO. (be sure to seal the lag screws into the towers)


I see what looks to be a fairly new Mallory ectronic ignition distributor..... this is good!


Not sure what else you need to know, but fire away!



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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 14:51 #4

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Wow this is like Deja Vue all over again:p. I just did his last year, and looking at those pics is like reliving it all over!

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 15:15 #5

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2850 Bounty,

A question about Anti Seize, I am sure you have mentioned this before on the forum. Is it just automotive anti seize or is it all anti seize? Is it because some of the anti seize formulas may actually promote galvanic corrision because of the compound they use, copper, etc?

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 15:22 #6

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Grumbles2;312060 wrote: 2850 Bounty,
A question about Anti Seize, I am sure you have mentioned this before on the forum. Is it just automotive anti seize or is it all anti seize? Is it because some of the anti seize formulas may actually promote galvanic corrision because of the compound they use, copper, etc?

Yep! If used, it will expand changing it's name to "Always-Seize".

I have no issues with it on engine nuts/bolts so long as they are kept from salt water.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 15:30 #7

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Deja Vu huh. I hope that it is bringing up good memories and not bad ones. Especially since I am on the beginning side of the project. I definitely appreciate the advice on what to go ahead and replace while I am in there, (Preventative Maintenance), that helps a lot. I will also snap off a few pictures of the engine that I am going back in with. Any advice on transfering parts on the new block or doing anything to it prior to the install would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance again!!!

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 15:36 #8

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What engine will be going back in? Marine built? Heads/pistons? It can make a difference on how you set your ignition up.
And setting your ignition up properly can be the difference between detonation or no detonation issues.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
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Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 20:59 #9

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Here are some pictures of the engine that I will be putting in the boat. It is an identical engine (AQ260a) other than it has an electric fuel pump instead of a manual pump. I will be transplanting the exhaust manifolds and risers from the old block as well as the carbeurator. I will be replacing both the starter and alternator with new ones. If you have any suggestions or advice I am open.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/312205=6734-1984 Bayliner 2850 Contessa 001.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/312205=6735-1984 Bayliner 2850 Contessa 002.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/312205=6736-1984 Bayliner 2850 Contessa 003.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/312205=6737-1984 Bayliner 2850 Contessa 004.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/312205=6738-1984 Bayliner 2850 Contessa 005.jpg

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 19 Jun 2009 21:34 #10

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Yeah, it does bring back memories for sure. I had mine out so many times in teh previous few years I decided to mount it in with zippers instead of the lag bolts!:kidding

It is not that bad. I also opted to put the engine and Fly wheel cover in as a unit. I did wish I upgraded to the Vortec engine, but diod knw about this forum then and was told by my marina the 280 drive could not handle the extra 70 HP. I wished I knew then what I know now!

Good luck my friend, you have a fine boat!

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 20 Jun 2009 02:21 #11

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Is that your waterheater forward of your batteries?

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 20 Jun 2009 02:39 #12

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stimie02;312205 wrote: Here are some pictures of the engine that I will be putting in the boat. It is an identical engine (AQ260a) other than it has an electric fuel pump instead of a manual pump. I will be transplanting the exhaust manifolds and risers from the old block as well as the carbeurator. I will be replacing both the starter and alternator with new ones. If you have any suggestions or advice I am open.

Ahhhhhh, you may want to count spark plugs on this engine that you plan to install in the boat!

Here is your current engine........ it is indeed a V-8!

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I count only five exhaust manifold bolts per side.... what do you count?
I also count only three plug wires per side! I even cleaned my eye glasses and zoomed in on the image!

This one I believe is a 4.3L V-6, is it not?

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Unless you posted the wrong picture.... sump'n ain't right here. :hammer


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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 20 Jun 2009 02:46 #13

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Look at the plug spacing on the cap. Looks like a 6 cylinder.

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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 20 Jun 2009 10:29 #14

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2850Bounty;312324 wrote: Ahhhhhh, you may want to count spark plugs on this engine that you plan to install in the boat!

Here is your current engine........ it is indeed a V-8!

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I count only five exhaust manifold bolts per side.... what do you count?
I also count only three plug wires per side! I even cleaned my eye glasses and zoomed in on the image!

This one I believe is a 4.3L V-6, is it not?

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Unless you posted the wrong picture.... sump'n ain't right here.

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WHOA RICK! The detail you pick up on! Putting this engine in THAT boat will needed a gear ratio change, amongst a other mods, including that Contessa NEVER being able to get up on plane again ever. :hammerGOOD Catch Ricardo!:)

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Tony, Cape Cod, MA
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1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
454 Merc Cruisers inboards
"HOLODECK"
2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke
www.bourneyachtclub.com

Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 20 Jun 2009 13:04 #15

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Tony, I can't take all of the credit..... I did have help!

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My guess is............ if he was wearing those green day-glow flip-flops when he purchased this engine, they saw him coming! :kidding


stimie02, I'm only teasing you!
We're all in your corner here, so please let us know what's up with this being sold to you as a 5.7L!!!
Curious minds here!

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
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Engine Removal - 84' 2850 Contessa 21 Jun 2009 14:42 #16

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Bump!

Still curious!

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
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