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TOPIC: I really need help please

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 00:19 #1

  • Captain Zac
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1995 7.4 Bravo II
As I said in my early post eng. cutting out and then right back on
went to the boat and checked all conections
cleaned some up
started the engine and noticed that with the blower on the amp. meter showed a discharge to about 11v
with the blower off amp. meter about 13v
with anyother equipment on I had a slight draw under 13v
any ideas

Harry

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 00:23 #2

  • Mocoondo
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I don't think the blower would necessarily have that kind of effect on the engine.

To be sure, turn off all electrical items and operate the boat.

It could be either a fuel or an ignition related issue, but I'd put money on it being ignition related.

When was the last time your ignition system components were replaced? Plugs, wires, distributor, etc.

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Mocoondo
2002 Bayliner 195 Capri "Sport"
Mercruiser 5.0L V8 / Alpha I Gen II
MMSI: 338091755

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 00:34 #3

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plugs and wires replaced 30 hrs ago

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 00:35 #4

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how about a weak alt. or regulator
would that have anything to do with it

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 01:09 #5

  • Mocoondo
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How often is the engine cutting out? And for how long?

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Mocoondo
2002 Bayliner 195 Capri "Sport"
Mercruiser 5.0L V8 / Alpha I Gen II
MMSI: 338091755

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 02:04 #6

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when I first get on plane maybe 2 or 3 times just for a split second

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 05:18 #7

  • 74nisqually
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loose corroded contacts on your engine plug maybe try and go around and jiggle wires while engine is running, use clr and a little brass brush to keep all the contacts shiny

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My projects
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1974 23' Bayliner Nisqually
1997 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI
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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 06:40 #8

  • Steelfist
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here is one i found on a car i was working on. check your key ring if it is too heavy it could be causing your ignition switch to turn on and off.

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Dave
1990 Bayliner 2651 Merc 5.7 Alpha One leg
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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 08:02 #9

  • scot34
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how about the fuel sensor unit?
maybe intermittment?

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Scott
Bayliner 185 2007 - sports seating
4.3L mercruiser - 190hp - Alpha one outdrive
I dont go looking for no trouble but somehow trouble always seems to find me.

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 12:28 #10

  • JohnL
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Two different problems. The blower should not pull down the voltage that much while the engine is running if the alternator is working right... unless the blower itself is frozen or otherwise drawing way too much current, or the battery (s) being charged by the alternator is itself shorted.

I think the momentary cutting out is probably something else... try the suggestion to wiggle all critical wiring while engine is running, especially anything providing power to the ignition system. Including lanyard switch and shift cutout sw.

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 13:22 #11

  • cullyJ
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i just fixed my problem of similar symptoms. my other post was entiled "engine surging". engine would drop out or drop rpms then - like a light switch - come back on. it happened ramdomly and but consistently. i chk'd coil by removing + wire and putting direct battery voltage to ( + ) terminal - start engine see if prob goes away. it did not. then i chk'd coil ( - ) terminal for grd continuity by pulling coil high tension lead and turning engine over with VOM attached between coil - and batt grd. i saw the grd signal that triggers the coil to fire working. took high amp lead off altenator and read output - steady 22+ vdc. cleaned all terminals on almost everything. still had problem. friend said to chk distributor cap and rotor. "nah, they're brand new". i chk'd anyway and found rotor bad. it had two bent "window" tabs - they pass through the magnetic pickup which triggers the grounding of the coil for sprak voltage. i put the old rotor back on and VOILA! purrs like a kitten! :arr

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"cullyJ" on 16 - 1997 2252 5.7L carb
alpha I/gen II 1.47:1 (?)
purchased by us in 1998 @ 50 hrs
new jasper long block, closed cooling,
psi hot water, deck shower
and privacy curtains - 2001
letas slant, bimini and glass - 2009
baltimore - norfolk, hydro race, 6 nights - 1999
baltimore - cape may,...

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 13:33 #12

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I will take a rotor cap to the boat with me
question
I guess you cannot look a the cap and tell its bad is that correct

Harry

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 15:18 #13

  • cullyJ
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Captain Zac;310360 wrote: I will take a rotor cap to the boat with me
question
I guess you cannot look a the cap and tell its bad is that correct

Harry


well the rotor was bent so it was obivious once pulled off and re-inspected. i did not notice the bent "windows" when i installed it out of the box. if the tip of your rotor is heavily burned and so are the contacts in the distributor cap - it's time to replace. sometimes you can clean them up but the futher the voltage has to jump the weaker the spark.

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"cullyJ" on 16 - 1997 2252 5.7L carb
alpha I/gen II 1.47:1 (?)
purchased by us in 1998 @ 50 hrs
new jasper long block, closed cooling,
psi hot water, deck shower
and privacy curtains - 2001
letas slant, bimini and glass - 2009
baltimore - norfolk, hydro race, 6 nights - 1999
baltimore - cape may,...

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 15:23 #14

  • cullyJ
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from your other post this: "This time it did it I noticed that the amp reading on the alt. was reading under 12v" which is just what mine did. need to correct one thing: the volt meter indicates voltage. i don't think you have an amp guage. did you understand the diagnostics i mentioned in the other my previous reply?

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"cullyJ" on 16 - 1997 2252 5.7L carb
alpha I/gen II 1.47:1 (?)
purchased by us in 1998 @ 50 hrs
new jasper long block, closed cooling,
psi hot water, deck shower
and privacy curtains - 2001
letas slant, bimini and glass - 2009
baltimore - norfolk, hydro race, 6 nights - 1999
baltimore - cape may,...

I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 15:35 #15

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Yes I did
I am a pilot and we refer to the amp meter because on most aircraft this guage does both
my fault

Harry

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I really need help please 16 Jun 2009 15:36 #16

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cannot get dist. cap and rotor until Wed. I will take the cap off and inspect

Harry

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I really need help please 17 Jun 2009 02:28 #17

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OK guys

Heres what happened today
cleaned every connection and I could find (took 2 hrs)
started eng. with all elect. items off (it did not kick into gear and was able to advance throt. )
turned on blower on and got a drop in the voltage
turned on different elect. items and got a drop in voltage
took the boat out
got a reading of about 11v at 1000 rpms (no wake)
as I was getting the boat on plane volt. stayeed at 11v
after I got on plane the volt. got to 12.5
stopped
went to Bat 2 (House)
all numbers matched above numbers
note: checked bats. all with in limits
what do you think

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I really need help please 18 Jun 2009 00:57 #18

  • 74nisqually
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Should have 14 volts constant, You could check for a loose alternator belt, and voltage regulator-alternator problem. You say your batteries are ok simple way to check- unhook them and test if fully charged should be 12.7 volts. if you hook them back up and you see a spark (make sure there are no fumes) You may have dead short. chafed wire on metal? test with a voltmeter.

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My projects
http://s619.photobucket.com/albums/tt278/northvanartisan/big%20island%20furniture/
1974 23' Bayliner Nisqually
1997 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI
DP-S Duoprop, SS F4 Props

I really need help please 18 Jun 2009 01:03 #19

  • seapuppy
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one way to check the alt...is start the engine...pull the batt pos. cable off the terminal...if the engine stops.....or shuts down....bad alt.........

if it continues to run...it is not the alt...but also check the connections on the alt gauge.....it may be reading badly from bad connections...

:arr arr

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I really need help please 18 Jun 2009 01:14 #20

  • Dave Richards
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this reminds me of the time my main grounding nut on the engine was loose.

Cost me $200.00 on a Sunday afternoon from a mobil mechanic. He felt so bad, he tuned everything else up for the money.

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I really need help please 18 Jun 2009 01:55 #21

  • Ifallsguy
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one way to check the alt...is start the engine...pull the batt pos. cable off the terminal...if the engine stops.....or shuts down....bad alt.........



Not a good idea. I've seen a lot of good alternators blown by doing this.

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1989 Capri 1950 CX
2.3 L Ford/OMC
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I really need help please 18 Jun 2009 13:29 #22

  • cullyJ
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yeah, your not charging. turn batts to "off". remove the high amp output wire from the altenator output terminal. turn batts to "on". start angine. careful now, with VOM read dc volts to ground on the output terminal of the altenator. stop engine. batts to "off". what is your reading? should have read 22+ volts, and as others have said charge voltage is 14+.

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"cullyJ" on 16 - 1997 2252 5.7L carb
alpha I/gen II 1.47:1 (?)
purchased by us in 1998 @ 50 hrs
new jasper long block, closed cooling,
psi hot water, deck shower
and privacy curtains - 2001
letas slant, bimini and glass - 2009
baltimore - norfolk, hydro race, 6 nights - 1999
baltimore - cape may,...

I really need help please 18 Jun 2009 13:53 #23

  • Captain Zac
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update

WE have an Atl. rebuild shop about 3 miles from the boat
He is 95% sure it is the Alt. so I had him order the parts needed to rebuild my Alt.
He will test the alt. on the bench to confirm what he thinks is true
If the Alt. tests ok I wll still have it rebuilt just because of the labor in taking it out
I take the Alt. to him on Monday and he will have it back the same day.
I will update you guys on Wed.
Thanks for your help

Harry

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I really need help please 22 Jun 2009 15:49 #24

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OK guys here's what we got

Took the Alt. off 10 min. job
find that the long screws that hold the housing (4 of them ) 3 had backed off
allowing the houseing to move
this is the reason I was only getting 11 to 12 volt output
DThe rebuild shop said that they could just put the bolts back and the unit would be just fine but I had them go ahead and do the rebuild
But something I learned is that it might be a good idea to put your hands on as much as you can and just wiggle it checking it for loose connections
I would have never of thought that these screws would back off.

Harry

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