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TOPIC: some more rotten wood; and cement?

some more rotten wood; and cement? 23 May 2009 22:20 #1

  • alk
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I was trying to reattach my battery hold down today, 1989 2556 Command Bridge. Upon inspection, it was obvious why it came out, the deck that it was screwed to was badly rotted. I punched out an area, and noticed it was full of water. I should have taken a few pictures to better describe the area, but imagine looking into the engine 'room', port side there is a flat deck that sits on the outside of the stringer, and runs to the hull side - glassed over wood. Further fowards is where the water heater sits, but up here there was nothing but the batteries, and a lot of free space. Any idea how this area would get water, and where it's supposed to drain? The most surprising thing was the two large mounds of what has to be cement. Does it come from the factory like this? Or was this some type of previous owner repair? Can't imagine why it would come like this, or what somebody was trying to fix with cement.

I guess I need to replace the rotten section, but before doing so, need to get the area either sealed, or draining correctly - but I'm not sure which.

any suggestions appreciated.

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 24 May 2009 00:28 #2

  • 88fourwinns
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Cement? well that's a first, I've seen some pretty bad repair methods but never cement. You want to cut out as much as you can of the bad wood, and dry the whole area really well. You can treat the old wood and your new deck piece with CPES (see www.rotdoc.com ) which is a thinned epoxy. The CPES has some real nasty solvents in it that will discourage futher rot growth. You can then glass over the patch area. If the area is not too large and the stringer is not rotted this is a pretty easy repair. Be careful cutting out the old wood that is near the chine of the hull, it can be very shallow there and it's easy to cut through the hull. I've done a similar but larger deck job on my 88 FW....took a while...but came out OK.

as far as how the water got in there, hard to say without a pic..but waterlogged areas are common on old boats...

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/299284=6432-ATT00016 (2).jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/299284=6433-Boat 1a.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/299284=6431-foam in.jpg [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/299284=6430-old floor.jpg

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Long Island Sound Region

some more rotten wood; and cement? 24 May 2009 01:45 #3

  • dmcb
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Pictures would be nice but it sounds like it is only a piece of plywood to hold the batteries? No biggy if that is so.
Someone may have used cement to balance the boat to remove a list. That is common.
Just guessing, need pics.
Look carefully along the stringer for a plugged drain hole.
Doug

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Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

some more rotten wood; and cement? 24 May 2009 02:41 #4

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I'll try to get some pictures on Monday. I'm not too worried about replacing the piece of wood I will cut out of the deck; when I say deck, I don't mean the actual cockpit deck, this is the deck of the engine room 'floor', so appearance isn't an issue. I just don't know what to do about the cement that was poured in - I guess I'll leave it there? Wouldn't have any idea how to remove poured cement from fiberglass. He would have had to cut the deck out, poured the cement, then replaced the deck. yeesh. Would be surpised if the boat listed this way, as the water tank and both batteries were on the port side.

I haven't even located the forward bilge pump yet, apparently it only runs from the helm switch and doesn't have a working float switch, because when I turned it on today, it was pumping water for some time. Starting to worry about where else I'm going to find rotted wood on this vessel.

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 24 May 2009 02:50 #5

  • dmcb
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Well when you get it in the water, if it sits level, you know to leave the cement in there.
Doug

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Started boating 1955
Number of boats owned 32
Bayliners
2655
2755
2850
3870 presently owned
Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

some more rotten wood; and cement? 24 May 2009 07:49 #6

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alk;299248 wrote: Any idea how this area would get water, and where it's supposed to drain? The most surprising thing was the two large mounds of what has to be cement. Does it come from the factory like this? Or was this some type of previous owner repair? Can't imagine why it would come like this, or what somebody was trying to fix with cement.I guess I need to replace the rotten section, but before doing so, need to get the area either sealed, or draining correctly - but I'm not sure which.any suggestions appreciated.

I presume that you're writing about the area shown in the photo attached below....
[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/299349=6436-limberhole 2 general.JPG Your port "battery tray holder compartment" should have a limber hole that is intended to allow any water accumulation to drain away. My 2556 has a limber hole providing drainage for the Starboard compartment, but not the Port compartment. It sound like your 2556 may not have a limberhole in the Port compartment either. I really have no clue as to why Bayliner would install a limber hole in the Starboard compartment, but not in the Port compartment. Perhaps some other members of the forum could chime in with their advice/suggestions as to why Bayliner would only install a limber hole on the Starboard compartment and not the Port compartment?Water could get into the Port compartment via a number of areas. Off the top of my head I would make sure that the screws securing the trim tabs are properly sealed and not the source of the leak into your "compartment". Additionally, I have found that when it rains the precipitation enters the engine compartment (via the exhaust vent louvers and rod holders) and settles into the U-shaped "lip" between hull and the "compartment" we are discussing. The before mentioned "Lip" runs the length of the engine compartment, and will hold standing water. If there are any holes, cracks, or other compromises along this "Lip", the standing water could seep into the compartment in question..... just my 2 cents worth.
Now as far as the "cement" you discovered..... this is not the first time I've heard of this. In fact "FLYBOY III" spoke of lead being installed into our Bayliner 2556's at the factory in order to balance our hulls laterally in this thread.... http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30305 (look at post #5)Here is an excerpt from an e-mail he sent me..."The removal (of the lead) was done by the previous owner who worked at the Bayliner plant in Arlington and he had done several mods to the boat that he basically stole from the factory. I do not know where the ballast was but he passed on to me that he had removed it and had the 8D battery installed in the laazarrette/engine compartment on the port side. If you look at the layout it is pretty obvious that Bayliner had to counter balance the cabinetry, lav, and blackwater tank somehow. Some was countered by the hot water tank but not all of it."I would really love to see some pictures of your "concrete" as it sits in your compartment. I need to address some rot/water related issues with my 2556 and will likely be interested in removing the plywood "cover" over the "battery holder compartment". I'd love to find some unnecessary stern weight that I could remove. I think that If we need to laterally balance our 2556's we should do it with useful weight (i.e. kicker motor mounted on the Port side, or extra large Port side mounted batteries).Post some pictures... the rest of us 2556 owners would surely love to learn from your experiences.Cheers,M.

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 24 May 2009 08:37 #7

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alk;299318 wrote: I haven't even located the forward bilge pump yet...


In case you haven't found it yet..... the forward bilge pump is approximately amidships, and can be located by looking under the plywood floor access panels found underneath the cushions in the Port berth (in the "cave" beneath the dinette).

Once you find the forward bilge pump you will also have found the fresh water tank. Take a good look at the limber holes between the bulkheads near the forward bilge pump. One of my limberholes in that areas was "plugged" with sloppily applied chopper gun fiberglass strands. You've got to make sure that your limber holes are free to help ensure that water (once it has entered the boat) does not build up and stay in unwanted compartments.

Cheers,

M.

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 26 May 2009 17:07 #8

  • jholman
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Under my recent posting "Where are the lead bricks?" I had a genny removed and the boat (Montego) now lists to starbord. Seeing nothing heavy on that side I asked if Bayliner installed ballast to counter the weight of the genny. The only area I could see is the same kind of boxed-in compartment that you describe. One respondent told me that, yes, ballast has been known to be installed - either cement or sand! So, if your batteries and other heavy stuff was on one side, likely is that ballast was poured on the other!

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 26 May 2009 20:09 #9

  • trimjb
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Interesting. I have a 1990 2556 7.4L/B2. No drain hole in the port compartment either. Thinking of putting a watertight access in to monitor what is going on.
Take some pictures if your going to cut into yours so we can see whats up in there.

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 27 May 2009 01:56 #10

  • alk
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Haven't been back to the boat yet, but will try my best to get some pictures later this week. I've already startd thinking about all the cool things I can add on the port side, once I get rid of the dead weight from the cement chipped out. An 8d, Genset, aux fuel tank, the list goes on...

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 27 May 2009 13:12 #11

  • JeffBlohm
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I had to replace the same rotted piece of plywood. Port side where the batteries sit. Numerous holes from previous owners securing batteries allowed water intrusion. The vent on that side also lets rain water in and it flows across the flat area for the batteries. Underneath the plywood, yes it's concrete from bayliner!
Jeff

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Jeff & Lisa Blohm
1989 2556
"La Sirena Norteña"
OMC Cobra replaced with Volvo Penta DPS
1992 3058 single 454 (project boat)

some more rotten wood; and cement? 27 May 2009 19:27 #12

  • trimjb
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Jeff, did you find any counter weight in yours?
John

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some more rotten wood; and cement? 28 May 2009 01:54 #13

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I'm not sure what you mean by counter weight. I tried to keep the project simple and left the existing concrete in place. The starboard side was sound so I left it alone, don't know if there is concrete on that side.
Jeff

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Jeff & Lisa Blohm
1989 2556
"La Sirena Norteña"
OMC Cobra replaced with Volvo Penta DPS
1992 3058 single 454 (project boat)

some more rotten wood; and cement? 19 Jun 2009 19:49 #14

  • Optimus
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I bet I know exactly why this happened in yours, as I just discovered it in mine. The worthless bilge vents allow rain water to enter right in. I'll bet you can trace a water stain down inside the hull from the bilge vents and find a "pool" stain at around your rotted area. This was the case on both of my decks port and starboard. It's worse on the port side of my boat because the water tank is there, and it gets water trapped under it and doesn't dry out as fast as the port side. That, and at least on my boat, there's NOTHING behind the port vent, and the vent isn't caulked against the hull. Water comes right through the vent itself, and whatever rain hits the hull above it comes to the top lip of the vent and goes right in behind it. At least on the starboard side, there is the blower tubing and a flimsy black molded "tray," but even that isn't very good at stopping rain. I only have a single battery on my starboard side, so circulation is better. My starboard side wood was dry (but rotted a bit) but the port side was still damp (it had just rained the day before when I found it).

Please take pictures, and please update on your progress. I have not done fiberglass repair before, and I would love to learn to do it myself (just not sure if I will have time).

Have other members done this repair?

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