Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me

TOPIC: 2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 22:16 #51

  • fritzman
  • fritzman's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • Fritz, Boat- 2859 -1993 name Scotch&Water
  • Posts: 1357
  • Thank you received: 183
All great projects, Dave good solution , in my installation just did not have room, the oil pan is deeper.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 07 Jun 2017 23:02 #52

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Installed the thru hull raw water intake today. Used a 1inch backer plate epoxied to the hull. Needed the clearance for the handle to miss the stringer. Was trying to keep it as close to centerline of hull as possible.

Built the new motor mount humps out of 2 2x4 and a piece of 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between. Topped by a piece of 3/8 plywood. The screws will come out and be filled with resin before installing. Good and solid now.

Just waiting for a fuel tank so I can keep moving ahead.

The transom wood is fully Installed. Bit of sanding and prep work now to get ready for fibreglass mat. I did go with 1" and 3/4" plywood for the center section to get the thickness I wanted. The outer sections are 2 pieces of 3/4". Super solid and zero voids anywhere now. I just need 2 maybe 3 layers of matting to get the 3/16" and I will be right on the 2 1/4" mark. Heavy boat I figured go to the max.

This message has attachments images.
Please log in or register to see it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 08 Jun 2017 04:53 #53

  • SKUA 28 Contessa
  • SKUA 28 Contessa's Avatar
  • Away
  • Elite Member
  • Elite Member
  • In over my head... for sure.
  • Posts: 626
  • Thank you received: 74
You might want to consider some biax or triaxial cloth instead of mat. A much stronger laminate will result..

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/g...to-leak?limitstart=0

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 08 Jun 2017 06:09 #54

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Yes I should not have said mat.

I have 1708 biaxial. I also have some 1700. Hoping that 2 layers of 1708 will be enough on the transom along with the tabbing. Using 1708 for that also. The stringers had a good 1/4" built up on them so will layup 3 to 4 layers.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 08 Jun 2017 15:58 #55

  • fritzman
  • fritzman's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • Fritz, Boat- 2859 -1993 name Scotch&Water
  • Posts: 1357
  • Thank you received: 183
Once more fine looking job, keep it up.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 08 Jun 2017 16:21 #56

  • SKUA 28 Contessa
  • SKUA 28 Contessa's Avatar
  • Away
  • Elite Member
  • Elite Member
  • In over my head... for sure.
  • Posts: 626
  • Thank you received: 74

sketch96 wrote: Yes I should not have said mat.

I have 1708 biaxial. I also have some 1700. Hoping that 2 layers of 1708 will be enough on the transom along with the tabbing. Using 1708 for that also. The stringers had a good 1/4" built up on them so will layup 3 to 4 layers.


Although just about anything would be better than the factory effort !!!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/g...to-leak?limitstart=0

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 08 Jun 2017 17:07 #57

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Very true!!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 15 Jun 2017 14:09 #58

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
8 I am getting ready to tab in the transom. I am using 1708 and epoxy. I am wondering if I should use a layer of csm on the entire transom first before doing the tabbing?? I see different opinions on this elsewhere on the net. Some say to do it when using polyester resin first and don't bother when using epoxy. Others say it should always be done first regardless.

1708 has csm on the back already so to my thinking it shouldn't be needed it I want to make sure before proceeding. What are the thoughts on this forum?

This message has an attachment image.
Please log in or register to see it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 15 Jun 2017 14:49 #59

  • builderdude
  • builderdude's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • "THE FIX"
  • Posts: 4890
  • Thank you received: 805
I say cover the entire thing to ensure its sealed from any water. I ran my fiberglass across the entire transom and onto the existing areas surrounding it, also into the key hole. IMO Epoxy for everything.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 15 Jun 2017 14:49 #60

  • fritzman
  • fritzman's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • Fritz, Boat- 2859 -1993 name Scotch&Water
  • Posts: 1357
  • Thank you received: 183
Hi sketch, remember you can put epoxy over polyester but NOT the other way, polyester will delaminate over a short time period. As for tabbing first or after is a argument like politics, I tab first but prior to glassing make up a paste of resin and fillers- can be fine saw dust - and fill all inside corners to eliminate air pockets. have fun.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 15 Jun 2017 18:22 #61

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
I may have been a bit vague in my previous post.

Guys are completely covering the transom wood with a layer of csm before tabbing and covering the transom again in 1708. It looks like they seem to think you need a full layer of csm first so that the rest of the cloth will have something to bite into.

I have so far just applied a couple coats of unthickened epoxy to the bare wood transom and was thinking now to just give it a quick Sanding to roughen it up, apply a coat of unthickened epoxy and go to the 1708 tabbing. Let it setup. Sand it all again to roughen and another coat of unthickened epoxy to the entire transom then apply 2 full layers of 1708 to seal the whole assembly. No csm mat used at all except for what's attached to the 1708 already.

Does that sound right?

Fritzman. I did mix up some thickened epoxy and made generous fillets around the entire transom and down each side of the stringers where they meet the hull to make sure the glass will lay properly with minimal air bubbles. I did pay special attention to the corners also. I'm hoping this goes smoothly!!

Looking forward to getting my tank back in and all the rest of the glasswork completed as I am finding out I'm more of a mechanic than a fibreglass/bodywork guy!Lol. The motor is next. The leak down showed some valve leakage so the heads will be getting pulled for rebuild and I will be inspecting the rest of the motor while it's out in my shop. That I do enjoy doing. I was told it was a 496 so I'm anxious to measure the bore and stroke to make sure.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 15 Jun 2017 20:37 #62

  • builderdude
  • builderdude's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • "THE FIX"
  • Posts: 4890
  • Thank you received: 805
Your plan sounds good. No need to let the epoxy "cure" if you can apply additional layers/coats to previously un cured wet or sticky epoxy, may save you some sanding between layers. The only csm I used was the stuff that is stitched to the biodirectional mat I used. The tabbing will bond to the transom regardless of csm being applied or not.
The following user(s) said Thank You: sketch96

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 16 Jun 2017 05:02 #63

  • SKUA 28 Contessa
  • SKUA 28 Contessa's Avatar
  • Away
  • Elite Member
  • Elite Member
  • In over my head... for sure.
  • Posts: 626
  • Thank you received: 74
CSM is not needed with epoxy. It's used with poly resin due to poly's weaker adhesion. also it can be used to lessen print through with coarser roven style fabrics. CSM will soak up epoxy like a sponge.
The following user(s) said Thank You: sketch96

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/g...to-leak?limitstart=0

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 19 Jun 2017 23:23 #64

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Builderdude. I have a question about glassing the transom. I have 2 layers of 1708 tabbing done and am now ready to cover the entire transom with 2 layers of 1708. Do I need to extend these full layers out and completely over the tabbing or do I just need to basically cover the rest of the exposed wood and up over one edge of the tabbing? Hope I am explaining it well enough. Don't want to waste any glass if it's not needed.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 Jun 2017 00:14 #65

  • builderdude
  • builderdude's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • "THE FIX"
  • Posts: 4890
  • Thank you received: 805
Covering onto and over the existing tabbing would be best, doesn't have to be all one piece either. Multiple overlapping layers will be easier to work with while your squashed up in the engine bay trying to do glass work.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 24 Jun 2017 04:28 #66

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Got my new fuel tank back.........the 2nd one. They put a 3/4" ID pickup tube in it for my kicker to try to pull fuel through??? Not gonna work well I don't think.

Did a nice job tig welding the outside where you can see but when I look inside they used a spool gun and quickly welded the inside seams. Not great welding

And never bothered to clean up the splatter and welding Burn marks anywhere inside. Dirty.

If you want something done right I guess you do it yourself or babysit the ones that are doing it for You!!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 24 Jun 2017 05:44 #67

  • builderdude
  • builderdude's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • "THE FIX"
  • Posts: 4890
  • Thank you received: 805
You got a hemi for a kicker? :woohoo: should work, just bush it down to 3/8 at the anti siphon.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 24 Jun 2017 18:12 #68

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Lol. It has 2 separate pickups in the tank. Using one for the kicker. I ordered a 3/8 Pickup tube and fitting and will just install it inside the 3/4 pipe they put in. The pickup for the main motor is a 3/8 and they swapped that from the old tank to the new one. Not sure why they would not do the same for the other pickup but too late now. I should have gone to coastline and just got another tank to replace this one to begin with. Live and learn. Trying to keep the money local.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 24 Jun 2017 22:44 #69

  • SKUA 28 Contessa
  • SKUA 28 Contessa's Avatar
  • Away
  • Elite Member
  • Elite Member
  • In over my head... for sure.
  • Posts: 626
  • Thank you received: 74
I feel your pain. I went with a Highly regarded local guy. Even with a drawing and all specs detailed, I still wound up with wrong size fuel pickups, wrong locations, by an inch here, inch there, wrong orientation on the fittings, and not the fittings i specified. Apparently they are like canvas guys, you get what you get and you better be happy with it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/g...to-leak?limitstart=0

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 26 Jun 2017 23:03 #70

  • bay__89
  • bay__89's Avatar
  • Offline
  • New Member
  • New Member
  • Posts: 6
  • Thank you received: 1
My boat was plumbed for the kicker by connecting to the second outlet on the fuel filter. Works great and simple to connect

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 27 Jun 2017 00:25 #71

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
I took the 2nd tank back and went to another shop for a 3rd try at it. 3 times a charm!

I have a question about the glass work I have done so far. I used 1708 biaxial and epoxy. The shop I bought it from told me it was epoxy compatible, but not really needed with epoxy. I used it. I now have 2 layers of tabbing and 2 full layers over the entire transom. I am very happy with how it turned out, BUT when I was trial fitting the fuel tank yesterday, one corner of the tank hit the transom and left what looked like a quarter sized chip. It wasn't a chip, looking at the mark it looks like dry fiberglass cloth. I saturated the cloth until it was transparent. Not sure if this is normal or not with the experience I have fibreglassing. The epoxy was about 24hrs fresh.

From the pics can you tell if I got enough saturation? When I drilled out the other holes through the transom the glass looks dry to me. When I called the place I bought the materials from to confirm again if the 1708 was compatible they told me this time it is not recommended but will work with epoxy and as long as I got the glass transparent it should be fine and its saturated enough. Making me a bit nervous!!

This message has attachments images.
Please log in or register to see it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 27 Jun 2017 01:01 #72

  • builderdude
  • builderdude's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • "THE FIX"
  • Posts: 4890
  • Thank you received: 805
Strait CSM has a binder that is not compatible with epoxy. The bi-directional cloth with the CSM sewn to it is compatible with epoxy. Your saturation of the fiberglass looks great to me, looks very similar to mine.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 27 Jun 2017 03:15 #73

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
I went out and pulled on one of the loose or dry "strands" around one of the holes I drilled and the very top thin layer of the biaxial cloth peeled off right out to the edge. it is just a very thin layer going in one direction. underneath that layer you can kind of tell the next layer is 45degrees the other direction. (biaxial). That layer is good and hard. Almost thinking that maybe I didn't use quite enough resin or i squeegeed it out too much working the air bubbles out, starving the top layer of cloth? I will give it a good sanding through this thin layer and layup some 16 oz. triaxial that I have. no csm on the back. I may just use multiple layers of the 16oz cloth for the stringers now. I like the 1708 for the bulk.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 27 Jun 2017 03:29 #74

  • builderdude
  • builderdude's Avatar
  • Away
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • "THE FIX"
  • Posts: 4890
  • Thank you received: 805
Sounds like a good plan. I never squeegeed any excess resin off, just kept bible rolling till it started to get sticky then added another layer or ended up sanding it if it went to full cure for the next layup. FYI a shop vac connected to the sander helps minimize the dust. I mostly used 60 grit on the random orbital
The following user(s) said Thank You: sketch96

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 Jul 2017 13:32 #75

  • sketch96
  • sketch96's Avatar Topic Author
  • Away
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • The Doghouse
  • Posts: 330
  • Thank you received: 20
Finally got a fuel tank that I can feel good about using. I mentioned to the builder was going to coat the tank or possibly paint it. He did not like that idea at All. His thoughts were that anything that coats aluminum is subject to flaking or if you happen to scar it when installing or if anything rubs against it you now have an entry point for moisture to collect. They build aluminum boats so I wasn't going to argue.

He felt that bare aluminum protects itself and when looking at the 22yr old tank that I removed the only spots that were corroded was where the factory rubber straps were touching the tank.

Hard to argue that. I now have glued plastic strips to the new bare aluminum tank with 5200 to prevent a repeat of moisture getting between the tank and straps to prevent any future corrosion issues.

PS. While waiting for the 3rd tank to be built I decided to tear into the motor. Ended up that the excessive valve leakage I found during the leak down was due to the valve seats being pounded out beyond saving. Pistons and cylinders look mint. SO.....i am going full aluminum top end. Aluminum heads, intake and exhaust. Should be a few pounds lighter! Also changing the cam and lifters, timing chain and gears along with new rod and main bearings, and a melling high volume oil pump. The stroker crank is a scat crank which is good quality and it was bored. 040 over with flat top pistons. Pretty excited about the new motor!

This message has attachments images.
Please log in or register to see it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.
Moderators: Jim GandeeRuffryder
Time to create page: 0.146 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum