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TOPIC: House battery relocation on a 2859

House battery relocation on a 2859 25 Oct 2016 17:34 #1

  • sketch96
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Thinking about moving both house batteries up under the bow bed on my 2859 for better weight distribution. Both batteries are sealed AGM units.

Has anyone done this before? Will there be too much voltage drop with the cables being a lot longer? Was thinking about using welding cable and making oversize cables.

Also trying to figure out what accessories should be run off the house batteries and what should be run off the start battery. It looks like the start battery is hooked to the start solenoid and would also power the fuse panel behind the dash. Should this battery be isolated just for start and all other accessories run off the house side? Do I need to change the way it's wired from factory?

Not much of an electrical guy! I will be carrying a 2000 watt generator just in case!

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 25 Oct 2016 18:34 #2

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When I did mine i downloaded and printed off a couple of copys of the wiring diagram which gave me the colour coding for the whole boat from that I worked out what was truly involved and started collecting if your lucky your boat may already be separated if not its worth doing.
I've left a few things connected to start Batt but only stuff you would use while engine is running / Anchor Whinch / Trim Tabs / Trim motor / Blower / Gauges everything else is off house. I highly recommend getting that diagram.

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Daniel Drummond.
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House battery relocation on a 2859 25 Oct 2016 19:04 #3

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That would work , the only drawback is the out gassing of the battery's on AGM type what I understand is only when overcharged , so I would set up a box with some sort of venting, my battery's are in one box on the starboard side forward against the foil, don't know how the balance will work till spring.

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Old Glue

House battery relocation on a 2859 25 Oct 2016 20:58 #4

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My 2859 has the house batteries forward. No significant problem with voltage drop. The fridge, stereo, interior lights, anchor windless, fresh water pump, a small inverter, vhf radio, and chart plotter run off of the house stack. Batteries are two group 29 deep discharge flooded lead acid. I still have two 'engine batteries' on the port side aft. I have seen no signs of outgassing effects.

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Looping on a 2859SC

House battery relocation on a 2859 25 Oct 2016 22:46 #5

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I installed 2 gc batteries in the compartment behind the fridge. Contructed a custom battery box and added vents as per ABYC standards. Used 00 gauge cables, the voltage drop is negligible.

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2001 2859 DREAMER
Bohemia River Maryland

House battery relocation on a 2859 26 Oct 2016 00:04 #6

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I have a 1993 2859. I placed and 8D battery, in a case, in the center compartment along with my inverter. My starter and house batteries remain on the port side of the engine compartment. Installed a standard vent on the bulkhead facing aft. No noticeable issues of heat and the weight distribution is better.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Dave Stancil
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1993 2859 Classic
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House battery relocation on a 2859 26 Oct 2016 00:37 #7

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I am wanting to offset the kicker motor on the portside and the 4ft extended aluminum swim grid. Moving 2 house batteries into the front/center compartment will help the rear weight issue but I probably will still be portside heavy slightly. I may end up moving the start battery over to the starboard side and slide it all the way forward. Then there will just be the water heater, trim pumps and kicker on the portside. Just need to figure out the wiring to make sure the start battery is isolated.

The stock Alternator is only a 55amp. Has anyone upgraded to a higher output Alternator?? I see a lot of options up to 130 amp. I realize the charge wire would probably have to be larger but would there be any other issues doing this?

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 26 Oct 2016 13:57 #8

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sketch96 wrote: I am wanting to offset the kicker motor on the portside and the 4ft extended aluminum swim grid. Moving 2 house batteries into the front/center compartment will help the rear weight issue but I probably will still be portside heavy slightly. I may end up moving the start battery over to the starboard side and slide it all the way forward. Then there will just be the water heater, trim pumps and kicker on the portside. Just need to figure out the wiring to make sure the start battery is isolated.

The stock Alternator is only a 55amp. Has anyone upgraded to a higher output Alternator?? I see a lot of options up to 130 amp. I realize the charge wire would probably have to be larger but would there be any other issues doing this?


Do you have pictures of your extended swim platform?

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House battery relocation on a 2859 26 Oct 2016 15:54 #9

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 26 Oct 2016 17:23 #10

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Hi all battery's forward I admit to having one Optima for the windless, right now charged of 110 battery minder , will go to a 3 bank splitter from the master switch, so that means I have 3 banks 1 12V starting big, 2 6V for the house and the forward dedicated for the windless down the road side thruster??? Project keep adding on!
Dstancil have you pulled the concrete out of the port compartment ? I will attempt to post a picture of my swim platform

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Old Glue

House battery relocation on a 2859 26 Oct 2016 23:18 #11

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I have read many posts about the concrete but I have not tackled that task yet, and I hope I do not have to attempt that.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Dave Stancil
Bayliner #1 in slip
1993 2859 Classic
10 ' dingy w/4HP 2012 DS4 Suzuki
Bayliner #2 in garage
2000 19.5 Capri Classic on trailer

House battery relocation on a 2859 27 Oct 2016 00:05 #12

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So is the concrete ballast a factory thing???? Don't tell me I have yet another project to add to the growing list!!!

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 27 Oct 2016 13:59 #13

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sketch96 wrote: So is the concrete ballast a factory thing???? Don't tell me I have yet another project to add to the growing list!!!

It is factory but no one knows what years had it.
Don't worry about it unless your boat lists to the port side all the time. It all depends on how much stuff was added to your boat, how many passengers you carry, and where they sit while underway.

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House battery relocation on a 2859 27 Oct 2016 16:19 #14

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I removed the concrete ballast from the port side box of my 2556 during my rebuild and added a box drain. Don't like the idea of hauling around 130 lbs of extra weight when batteries and their location can balance out any list you may have. ;)

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House battery relocation on a 2859 27 Oct 2016 21:01 #15

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Completely agree! These things are stern heavy and love the fuel so any opportunity to lose weight helps.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 28 Oct 2016 23:30 #16

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Well I was curious about the concrete issue and couldn't just leave it without checking.............and now I have another project! Should not have looked!

Fritzman how far does the concrete go? Hoping to cut as small of opening as I can.

I am thinking that shelf must add structural strength and will close it all back in when done.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 29 Oct 2016 14:53 #17

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Good morning sketch, the concrete runs from forward of the small slot opening by the transom to the area of the water heater, I installed a 13x 30 hatch and that cut out would work, I will see if I can get the # for you it was a Tempress, I posted pictures and description a wile back.

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Old Glue

House battery relocation on a 2859 29 Oct 2016 16:28 #18

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Concerning the access hatch, it is marked Sure Seal marine 13x30 and it is by Tempress.
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Old Glue

House battery relocation on a 2859 05 Nov 2016 02:59 #19

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Got at the concrete removal today. Not fun but losing that much weight in the rear can only help IMO. With my kicker mounted on the left side and an extra house battery on the port side also that should be all that's needed to balance it out. Also moving my second house battery forward under the v birth. I think it will be a huge improvement

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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Prince George BC

House battery relocation on a 2859 05 Nov 2016 03:07 #20

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How many lbs did ya pull out?

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

House battery relocation on a 2859 05 Nov 2016 03:15 #21

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So far I figure I'm just over half done and I weighed it on the wife's bathroom scale at 93lbs

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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House battery relocation on a 2859 05 Nov 2016 14:09 #22

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Good job, after I removed all the concrete and cleaned up, I put 2 layers of mat down just in case the bottom was stressed taking the concrete out then gel coated the compartment white lucking good keep the post flowing. :cheer:

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Old Glue

House battery relocation on a 2859 05 Nov 2016 23:16 #23

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I am assuming that you needed to remove the hot water heater for this task? Also, did you get to the concrete by installing a access hatch, or did you just cut out the entire length of flooring. If so, how will you replace the "floor" for the hot water heater and batteries? I am serious about tackling this project and could you just respond with the steps you took/will take. Many thanks for your help and advice.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Dave Stancil
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10 ' dingy w/4HP 2012 DS4 Suzuki
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2000 19.5 Capri Classic on trailer

House battery relocation on a 2859 06 Nov 2016 10:27 #24

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I cut out the floor using a Dremel trio. Sort of like a jigsaw. Yes I removed the trim pumps, batteries and water heater first. My water heater was shot and going to be replaced anyway so this all worked out timing wise.

I took fritzman advice and cut open a 13x30 opening to start with, intending to put a hatch in when finished but I had to cut an extra 4" out towards the water heater as I couldn't get all the concrete out with the smaller opening. I don't think a hatch will work for me as there won't be room to access it after the heater, 2 trim pumps, 2 batteries, washdown pump and box for extra fluids are remounted.

After the deck was cut out there is a thin fibreglass layer that encapsulates the slab that is easy to cut open. After that I started to drill a series of holes to hopefully help with chiseling but that was really slow going so I grabbed my snap on air hammer with a pointed bit and just got at it. Takes some time but wasn't too bad. I got about 155lbs out. Had to leave about 20 pounds under the water heater as I didn't want to cut any more of the deck away.

I'm going to buy a sheet of marine plywood and resheet the whole deck to cover the hole I cut out I think. Will look seamless that way. I will screw that down so I can remove it in the future for inspection. (Check for water or delamination in the hole where the concrete was).

That's the plan................so far!

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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Last Edit: by sketch96. Reason: Spelling

House battery relocation on a 2859 06 Nov 2016 12:36 #25

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Many thanks !

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Dave Stancil
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