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TOPIC: Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 25 Apr 2016 13:49 #76

  • SomeSailor
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The reason I added the zirc was to keep the busing lubricated. If you boat in salt, the babbitt material will corrode. I believe the grease packing prevents saltwater intrusion in that area.

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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 26 Apr 2016 03:22 #77

  • Castaway
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Zerk installed. It's a Quicksilver stainless 1/4-28. If I had to do it over, I'd use a smaller bit since my slight wobble made the hole almost too big. The tap was still cutting plenty of the soft aluminum, but When you're tapping aluminum, you want to have as much of it hanging on as possible. I liberally applied Locktite 271.




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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA
Last Edit: by Castaway.

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 26 Apr 2016 04:03 #78

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Bushing and seal installed. Locktite 271 applied here.




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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 03 May 2016 03:47 #79

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Installed gimbal ring. It's a bit of a goat rope getting all the parts to stack up for the insertion and to get the nut started. It was imperative to have someone on the inside holding the steering arm. Used a 1 1/16 wrench to tighten the nut just until the bottom of the gimbal ring started to touch the housing at the lower swivel pin (thin washer there, of course). With the steering arm disconnected from the power steering unit, this part was easy. After reconnecting the arm I could also tell that I had no play now whatsoever. And the U-bolt is not even tightened yet.







I was able to tighten the steering arm nut after finishing the swivel pin nut. I used the same two 5/8 closed end wrenches that I used to remove the bolt and nut. It takes some patience, but I didn't have to grind down any of my tools.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA
Last Edit: by Castaway.

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 03 May 2016 05:40 #80

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Looks good Bryan. You pump any grease through that new zerk yet?

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 03 May 2016 05:48 #81

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I did, but prior to assembly. I also filled the pin with it. I'll give it one shot of grease before I put in just to have the satisfaction of watching it ooz out.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 17 May 2016 01:19 #82

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I'm tapping the holes for my cover plate. Following the advice on the JR Marine video, I limited my holes to 7/16". Unfortunately, my tap doesn't really start cutting the threads until I'm in about 1/4" more. Does anyone know why he would offer this caution? Should I just go deeper or should I try to find 1/4-20s that are shorter or find a different tap?


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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 17 May 2016 01:29 #83

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You need a bottom tap, it will cut threads deep into a blind hole.
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2001 2859 DREAMER
Bohemia River Maryland

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 17 May 2016 01:40 #84

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Loun wrote: You need a bottom tap, it will cut threads deep into a blind hole.

Yup
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 17 May 2016 01:51 #85

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You can also go deeper with the hole. Nothing you'll run into by making them deeper.
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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 17 May 2016 02:14 #86

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Thanks guys. I'll get the bottom tap to be safe.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 17 May 2016 05:25 #87

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you could have ground down your current tap too. But they are not expensive so bottom tap would be the one...

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Doug ;}
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