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TOPIC: Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 06:46 #1

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I know I'm not the first to share my swivel pin replacement story, but after the frustration I had today, I've decided that there just can't be too much information about this job.

The outdrive came off easily. I should have used a breaker bar for the bell housing hinge pins. I pulled a back muscle getting those started with a regular socket wrench. I just cut the drive oil supply tube and the shift cable tab came out easily. Bell housing looks great.

I was happy to find my lower swivel pin in great shape and easy to remove. I can reuse these parts, I think.

I then drilled out the access hole a la JR Marine but with a Ruffryder flare, which is a short way of saying I used no template, but started small and widened my access based on what I saw after broke through. Good enough. I was able to use closed 5/8 wrenches to loosen the steering bolt and chiseled aind coaxed the top nut up and off the threads.



I was surprised to see very little corrosion on the top side, and no slop in the gimbal. I was hopeful that this meant the gimbal itself would need no work and that upper swivel pin would just slide right out like the lower pin did.

This is where my luck ran out. Three hours and three broken tools later I had convinced that upper swivel pin to descend about 1/4 inch. That thing defies the laws of physics. With everything loosened and PB Blaster oozing out everywhere, I had to call it a day. I'm now enjoy a glass of Ardbeg and planning tomorrow's attack.

Does anyone know what size and what threads run up the middle of that pin? I think I may pick up a slide hammer tomorrow.

I'm still optimistic about the condition of the gimbal ring, so I'll be careful not to damage it.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA
Last Edit: by Castaway. Reason: Add photo

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 07:00 #2

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U- bolt is loose? A bit of heat and then cool with water may help break it free. The PB blaster overnight should help also.
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 07:05 #3

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Thanks. U-bolt is loose. I may try heat, but I need to be careful not to damage the gimbal ring.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 17:10 #4

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Any luck? Steering arm is sloppy on the shaft now? 3/8-16 on the threads that run up the center of the shaft, might be all rusted out though. If she's moved 1/4 out of the gimbal ring she's gotta be close. Maybe try tapping it back up and soak with PB and try again. Could also try to spread the gimbal ring where it's split around the shaft with some mild pressure with a wooden wedge or something. You'll get there ;)
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 17:20 #5

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3/8 I think.
Bryan your luck didn't rin out :lol: this is the hardest part, pita .
Merc actually has a puller, but You can easily make one at home...this is why there's a hole in the square shaft.
Fastest way would be just cutting it thru.
11/8 solid hardened stainless steel shaft...almost impossible to cut, but
It can be done.

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Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 17:44 #6

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OEM shaft probably won't be stainless, but still gonna take some time/effort to cut it through and probably a few beer blades too.
Joon just likes to cut stuff apart, loves them Milwalkee power tools :silly: :lol:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 31 Jan 2016 17:51 #7

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:lol: SS most likely, but if it isn't ...you're in luck.

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Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
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Last Edit: by Ruffryder.

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 01 Feb 2016 01:59 #8

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I went to the yard armed with a 3/8 carriage bolt, a 7/16 carriage bolt and a gate hinge I saw at the hardware store that looked like it might help. The 3/8 threads were corroded so I tapped a 7/16 and ran that bolt up.


Success!



After some hammering it was out in minutes.

Now I have to figure out how to get the pin out of the steering arm where it connects to the steering control. The cotter pin came right out, but there's some corrosion on the pin itself and it won't budge.

This gimbal looks pretty good to me. I think it needs no reshaping.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 01 Feb 2016 04:59 #9

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DIY square shaft puller, might want to get a patent on that thing :silly: Now the fun begins, cleaning everything and the reassembly. Same drill on the steering arm pin, PB, heat/cold and DYI engineering ;) I assume your replacing everything including the water hose too? Curious to find out if you've got any Bravoitis happening.
Keep us posted

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 01 Feb 2016 06:04 #10

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Yes, if I'm going in this far, I'll be replacing all the cheap parts. New trim senders, water hose, oil line, bellows, gimbal bearing, etc. I may not bother with the speedo tube. It's totally clogged. I'm also doing a complete repaint of the outdrive. I'm looking for a local source for Alumiprep 33 and Alodine.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 01 Feb 2016 06:40 #11

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I didn't bother with the speedo tube either, in fact I completely removed it from my boat. I'll pull the speedo gauge also and put something useful in its place, like a beer holder. Sorry can't help with the alumiprep stuff, I just wiped with acetone and used zinc chromate primer on the many areas I needed to refinish.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 15:22 #12

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Bryan,

I think if you ask around, you'll find that the gimbal ring is done. If you put a new shaft in, there will be too much play. There are sources to have them built up, although I've not tried them.
www.jrmarine.com/products/gimbal_repair.htm

James

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1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 16:23 #13

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OP indicated there was no play/ slop in the area of the square shaft at the gimbal ring. I assumed he was replacing these parts simply because of a leaking square shaft seal.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 17:56 #14

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If you're going to replace the swivel shaft, be sure and get a stainless replacement. It's the only way to go. I also drilled mine out and reinstalled the grease zirc that Merc stopped installing. Should make it last forever.

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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 18:16 #15

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I did the same thing as Mike (stainless steel shaft, drill the grease channels, install zerk).
After four years, no leaks, no slop, fully greased, just add a pump or two once a month.

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Alex
1997 2859, 7.4 MPI, Bravo II
1993 2452, 5.7 Bravo II - SOLD

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 19:35 #16

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fishaman wrote: I did the same thing as Mike (stainless steel shaft, drill the grease channels, install zerk).
After four years, no leaks, no slop, fully greased, just add a pump or two once a month.

I'd be interested in that modification, where does one drill and install zerk? Any pics?

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 19:48 #17

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Yes, me too. I've never installed a grease fitting before. Has someone on here documented how to do that?

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 06 Feb 2016 20:52 #18

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I documented on here somewhere. Lemme see if I can find it. Worked great and the stainless swivel shaft is actually cheaper than the Merc OEM shaft.

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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 09 Feb 2016 03:13 #19

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That's a photo of the stainless pin drilled vertically, and then horizontally to deliver the grease from the top to the lower bushing and seal.





And here is the approximate location of the zerk, It's not my outdrive, just noticed it in the photo on Craigslist today.
I drilled it in the same location straight to the chamber over the top bushing, and tapped the hole for the stainless zerk fitting.


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Alex
1997 2859, 7.4 MPI, Bravo II
1993 2452, 5.7 Bravo II - SOLD

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 09 Feb 2016 03:24 #20

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I looked all over and couldn't find those pics, but it is a VERY good opportunity to make that seal last forever. The grease zirc will keep you leak proof forever. Well worth the little bit of extra effort.

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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 09 Feb 2016 03:53 #21

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Thanks for the write up! I've been needing to do this for a while now. My seal has a slow drip coming in and it drives me crazy!! Seems like a pretty daunting task though...

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"BIGswell"
1996 Ciera 2858
7.4 Mecruiser Bravo III
Morro Bay, California

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 09 Feb 2016 03:57 #22

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It's actually pretty straightforward. I did two others after my own and it can be done in just a few hours (aside from the drilling of the pin). JR Marine has the instructions online.

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Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 09 Feb 2016 04:03 #23

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I like it. Wonder if a fella could drill that zerk in on the topside of the assembly as an option.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacemen 21 Feb 2016 02:47 #24

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Went to the boat today to extract the remaining items. The steering arm pin took quite a while. There was just no easy way to grab that pin and it was so corroded/rusted in place that it wouldn't even turn for the first hour. A 15/16 Craftsman socket was the right size to knock out the swivel pin bushing. I discovered the other half of the seal while I was in there, as well.

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Bryan
1997 2858 7.4 B2
1992 Hewescraft
Puyallup, WA

Bravo Swivel Pin Replacement 21 Feb 2016 02:56 #25

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Well done,
Not easy to take that wear bushing...

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Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
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