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TOPIC: My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project.

My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 17:12 #176

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I'm on the side of the 'lock it in' crowd. It would be fairly easy to fab 3/4" plywood collars around each stringer. This would double the depth that the stringers lock into the transom.

Back in the olden days, all the DIY wooden boat builders used to incorporate "transom knees" at the trasom to firm everything up.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 17:50 #177

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malayphred wrote: ......... It would be fairly easy to fab 3/4" plywood collars around each stringer. This would double the depth that the stringers lock into the transom.

*************
If I'm following Larry correctly, he could still cut notches into the core, and "let-in" the stringers.
I think that this borders on over-kill a bit... but it certainly wouldn't hurt.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 18:00 #178

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The original stringers were tucked into the 1st core layer on the transom. But the second core was only as wide as the stringers and didn't go over them. So I figured that I would tuck the stringers under the second layer that I'm going to make the full width of the transom just like the first one. If you don't think notching only one layer is enough, or both layers notched would be better, then now would be the time for me to do that.

If you read what my plan was yesterday it mentions it.
"When it's supported I have decided to cut out the second core layer and get it fitted before I lay in all the stringers. It'll be MUCH easier to do without the stringers in the way. Then all I'll have to do is cut out the slots to slide the core into place when it's time."

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1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 18:35 #179

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I would think one layer into the core would be sufficient. Youdont want the stringers hard up against the transom glass but I would seal the wood between the core and the stringer on the sides and the end.

Seal meaning no wood to wood contact and glass or thinkened resin in between to fill the space between the stringer and the transom.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 18:46 #180

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Thanks David, I do plan on having glass between every intersection that wood meets each other so if one ever gets wet it won't transfer into the adjoining wood.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 19:34 #181

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yachtman wrote: I would think one layer into the core would be sufficient. Youdont want the stringers hard up against the transom glass but I would seal the wood between the core and the stringer on the sides and the end.

Seal meaning no wood to wood contact and glass or thinkened resin in between to fill the space between the stringer and the transom.


I'm just saying that the 3/4" deep pocket doesn't leave much room for error. Particularly if, as you say, the stringer doesn't contact the transom.

You DID make the point about structural integrity between the two bonds.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 19:56 #182

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malayphred wrote:

yachtman wrote: I would think one layer into the core would be sufficient. Youdont want the stringers hard up against the transom glass but I would seal the wood between the core and the stringer on the sides and the end.

Seal meaning no wood to wood contact and glass or thinkened resin in between to fill the space between the stringer and the transom.


I'm just saying that the 3/4" deep pocket doesn't leave much room for error. Particularly if, as you say, the stringer doesn't contact the transom.

You DID make the point about structural integrity between the two bonds.


Plus 1/4" glass =1" but that is also why one shouldn't error when doing transom and stringers. Your life cod depend on it.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 20:17 #183

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yachtman wrote:

malayphred wrote:

yachtman wrote: I would think one layer into the core would be sufficient. Youdont want the stringers hard up against the transom glass but I would seal the wood between the core and the stringer on the sides and the end.

Seal meaning no wood to wood contact and glass or thinkened resin in between to fill the space between the stringer and the transom.


I'm just saying that the 3/4" deep pocket doesn't leave much room for error. Particularly if, as you say, the stringer doesn't contact the transom.

You DID make the point about structural integrity between the two bonds.


Plus 1/4" glass =1" but that is also why one shouldn't error when doing transom and stringers. Your life cod depend on it.


Absolutely!

And let me also say that it's refreshing to get input from folks, like yourself, who have actual experience.

As opposed to dufes's like myself who are just observing the process. :P

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 20:42 #184

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If I'm understanding correctly, your suggesting I should notch out the first core also. Right?

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 20:57 #185

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LRCX 2750 wrote: If I'm understanding correctly, your suggesting I should notch out the first core also. Right?


No leave a sheet of ply and the laminating glass between the inside tansom glass and the stringer.

So outside glass the glueing layer the transom core 3/4 ply then the next lam layer of glass. Then butt of the stringer Then the notch then you will need to leave the notch exposed to insert the stringer. That is how I would do it.

Did that make sense? So you would only have a notch in the inner most lamination or the last inserting layer of 3/4" core.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 22:15 #186

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Yes that made sense. It's what I had planned originally. I just wasn't sure if that's what was being said and agreed to.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 15 Dec 2013 22:28 #187

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As I was setting up the supports under the hull today I got to thinking. I better make sure the hull is sitting on the stands squarely front and back. So I made a straight edge that spans the inside of the boat so I could put a level on it to see. From where it sits inside the cabin, it had about 3/4" of twist. So I adjusted the stands so that front and back leveled out evenly. I just hope the points I rested it on are the same on both sides from the factory.

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Now I can set up the supports for the stringers and know it's the best I can get it while I rebuild the structure.

Just to double check that the resting points were even on the top, I just put a straight edge across the inside of the hull from side to side and the levels are an exact match to the upper sections I measured from. I'm satisfied now that the hull is sitting level.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 16 Dec 2013 03:07 #188

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LRCX 2750 wrote:

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It does not take all that long for that to happen. I had bird nests in my vents after about a month of storage last year.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 16 Dec 2013 03:15 #189

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I built a 30 foot hull using cold molded plywood method. The stringers were NOT notched into the transom ply, rather there was framing around the perimeter of the transom and the stringers were notched into that framing. SO IF the second layer of plywood does not seem to have a good lock on the stringers, you could add another layer (could be more 3/4 " ply) but a piece just big enough, like a patch.

I had huge plywood knees bracing the stringers and the transom because the plan was to mount a big bracket with twin outboards and then go play in big waves!

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 16 Dec 2013 07:59 #190

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The stringers were not notched into the transom when I redid the transom in my Victoria. Not saying it isn't a good idea; but it lasted 30 years without it.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 16 Dec 2013 17:35 #191

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You got me to thinking, so I went back and reviewed the pictures. Your right, the stringers weren't tucked into the core originally. I now remember seeing one staple holding the stringer to the core when I removed the surrounding glass. So, it'll be an upgrade doing it right this time. Thanks for jogging my memory.
You can see here there was no notch in the core. Just a stain where it butted up to it.

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1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 00:00 #192

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Today has been a very good day with progress. Getting the underside of the hull supported and leveled out last night allowed me to get the last stuck 4x4 off the transom/core so I could remove the last 5 broken lag bolts. It went surprisingly well without breaking the bolts off again in the process. Once that was cleared away I ground the excess resin off the core surface as well as feathering out the edges. A dry fit of the first pattern only required a slight adjustment before I transferred it to the plywood and cut out the second core. This time I put the handles on it right away. It made it SO much easier to set it in place as well as picking it up and down to grind and adjust the fit. Now I can put this core away and work on getting the stringers and structure built. Notice I already have the stringer locations marked so it will be easier to cut out the notches when I'm ready to put it in.

These supports don't have a lot of pressure on them. Their just there to hold the hull flat so that while I'm walking around inside fitting the stringers I'm not pushing down on the hull. They will stay here until the structure is solid again.

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Boy it feels good to finally be moving forward!

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 03:12 #193

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I finally decided to pressure check the fresh water tank tonight since I was taking it easy after a good day. Well, as you can see, a new tank is in order. After pressurizing it and pouring soapy water on it I found 6 pin holes. When their in the very bottom and the seams of the tank, there's no need to think I can repair it. Oh well, another item for the scrap pile.

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I better get the new plastic tank ordered before it's too late. The holidays will probably slow things down this time of year.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 03:23 #194

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Darn!

I had high hopes for that tank. :(

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 03:35 #195

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I did too. But with the way the rest of this boat has gone, I'm not surprised at this point. Hmmm, I guess I should test the gas tank too. But that didn't look anywhere near as bad as the water tank did on the outside. The only leak I could detect when I took it out was around the sending unit.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 11:20 #196

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A master welder can fix that tank.

My friends son-in-law fixed my friends fuel tank, had a bunch of pin holes like your tank.

A man that knows how to weld aluminum can fix drives also. Crack in the case no problem.

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 11:43 #197

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Larry.... I have only one word for you regarding your shoring up of the underside of the chines:

Overkill! :lol:

Larry... we love you, man........ you'll have the nicest 2750 Victoria SDN F/B out there when finished. :)

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My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 17:47 #198

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Chief Alen wrote: A master welder can fix that tank.

My friends son-in-law fixed my friends fuel tank, had a bunch of pin holes like your tank.

A man that knows how to weld aluminum can fix drives also. Crack in the case no problem.


Normally Alen I would agree with you. I have a tig welder and could do any area repairs if I thought it would hold up. But after sanding off the bottom of the tank I found literally hundreds of large and small corrosion holes eaten almost all the way through the 1/8" aluminum. The only way to repair this tank would be to replace the entire bottom. The cracked line fitting must have been leaking for most of this tanks life to do this much damage. The tank was set directly on wet resin/chop to mold it to the hull. There was NO strips of anything holding the tank up from the bottom to keep it from sitting in water.
As you can see it's pretty bad and spreads across the entire tank.

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The corrosion in most of the corroded ares measures 1/16"-5/64" deep. Not worth trying to chase that many spots with a welder.

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1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 17:56 #199

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2850Bounty wrote: Larry.... I have only one word for you regarding your shoring up of the underside of the chines:

Overkill! :lol:

Larry... we love you, man........ you'll have the nicest 2750 Victoria SDN F/B out there when finished. :)


I told you Rick, I overkill almost everything. :P But you should have seen just how far the hull sagged down after I pulled all that dry glass and stringers out. Without standing inside it I could see almost 1 1/2" of drop in the hull. There's no way I could have dry fit the new stringers properly without knowing the hull would be in the same shape with me standing inside or not.
Question, SDN F/B ????

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1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

My 27' Victoria UNPLANNED project. 17 Dec 2013 22:46 #200

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Larry,

Agree 100% on a plastic tank. My 38xx had pin holes, now there is plastic water tank with cleanout ports. No more leaks and crud is easily cleaned and water drained.

Richard

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