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TOPIC: 2859 Owners

2859 Owners 31 Mar 2017 17:40 #451

  • fritzman
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NO, Marelon, exception is the union is sch 80 could not find in Marelon and needed that in the set up for simpler hose insulation and potential repair, I hope not. :woohoo:

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Old Glue

2859 Owners 31 Mar 2017 17:48 #452

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Need to add ABS is low grade of plastic, get stuff made from that product in the shop all the time and then the customer would like a repair for 20 to 50 bucks, NUTS.

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Old Glue

2859 Owners 31 Mar 2017 17:58 #453

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Was hoping not :lol: very cool

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Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
93 3058
92 2855
91 Fourwinns 205
Longbranch WA
Life is Good

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 00:22 #454

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No I still have the stock belt driven seawater pump/fuel pump. I already tore it apart and replaced the bearings and seals, new impeller kit and new fuel pump. So the whole thing is new. It is on my list to replace all that with a crank driven pump and electric fuel pump in the future.

I did make a backing plate out of 1inch plywood soaked in rot fix epoxy. But when I realized the hull was almost an inch thick already I was thinking it wasn't needed.

I will probably use it now. It's ready to go anyway

Got a mount for the strainer built. Just have to soak the plywood in rot fix and paint everything.

Next step is the important one. Where to drill thru the hull!!!

Thanks for the replies.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 02:12 #455

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Hmmm, me thinks the sea strainer should be below the water line.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 03:02 #456

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Well it says to mount above the waterline so I did. Could move it down but I don't think it matters much. Its not much higher than where the transom fitting was. Won't be an issue for the pump. Will be able to open it and clean the strainer without having to clise and open the seacock.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 05:59 #457

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I've personally never seen one mounted above, thought it had to do with potential air pocket forming in the intake line up top :huh: I guess it must be ok if the manufacturer recommends it. Looks like a quality unit.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
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www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 14:10 #458

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You make a good point. Now I'm thinking again! I would think the stock transom fitting would be above the water line also. If I fill the strainer with water before hand it should hold about 1/2 full being that the strainer is half below water line and the pump would have to pull the rest. Hoping the stock mercruiser pump will pull enough.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 15:03 #459

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Good morning as Dave indicated my feeling the strainer below the water line, now the seacock will have a shut of so the strainer can be cleaned, 2nd you will need a shut of on the outlet side of the strainer and a flush hook up to pump fresh water or RV antifreeze to winterize the system. I my install since the gas now fuel tank was moved forward 10 inches I gained a pocket for the mounting..

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Old Glue

2859 Owners 01 Apr 2017 16:08 #460

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The OEM transom fitting will be below the waterline on your 2859, is on my 2556 and likely most cruisers.
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 Owners 02 Apr 2017 00:11 #461

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Your right. The transom fitting would be slightly below water line.

I would have to set this strainer right on the bottom of the hull for the top of it to be below waterline completely. It's pretty big. Even overkill but I got a damn good deal on it so it's what it is now!lol!

I am going to lower it down from where I had it roughed in. Looks like the top 1/4 of it will still be above waterline. The way I look at it now is the motor will have 100% better water flow than it was getting, probably more!!!!
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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 Owners 02 Apr 2017 15:18 #462

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So just a curiosity question here. Raw water strainers. Why do we need them if the stock system doesn't use it.....other than the little plastic inserts in the leg it self? The clamshell thru hull has a "strainer" already. I'm wondering if its even necessary. I see on the internet many people do not install them.

Curious?

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC

2859 Owners 02 Apr 2017 15:32 #463

  • SomeSailor
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Bravo transom assemblies have a weak point. It's in the way the water fittings come through the assembly. There's a plastic insert that expands the inside diameter to seal the pickup hose. This takes what should be a 3/4" or so hose (ID) down to more like a 1/2" ID hose under best circumstances. Over time the hose swells and that gets worse.

With a water hungry 454 under the loads these boats are under, a dedicated through-hull with strainer is an awesome addition.

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2859 Owners 02 Apr 2017 16:09 #464

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The strainer is a great addition, it'll mainly give you easy access for clearing a plug In the event you suck up seaweed or seagrass etc.
Mike is correct about the choke point at the transom water hose connection. The ID of the insert is 5/8" the issue is actually caused by expanding corrosion crushing down on the hose and eventually restricting the water flow to allmost nothing (Bravoitis) If the drive is inspected in this area during anual/semi anual maintenance or whenever it shouldn't ever cause an issue.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

2859 Owners 02 Apr 2017 20:53 #465

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Yes mine was seriously bad. Less than 1/2 for sure. Thru hull was a no Brainer after finding this!


Now I have to figure out how to get that collapsed insert out so I can install the block off plate. I'm going to be doing the swivel shaft right away so I'm hoping I can punch it out from the outside in when I cut the water hose to remove the upper section to the transom. I'm also installing a drive shower.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
The Doghouse
Prince George BC
Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 Owners 02 Apr 2017 21:59 #466

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The insert is likely crushed, already busted apart. Once you remove the gimbal ring to do the square shaft you'll likely be able to grab the hose and twist and pull it all out with the help of a screwdriver.
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

2859 Owners 07 Apr 2017 03:45 #467

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Philip,

That's a sharp looking boat. We've been thinking about doing the aft canopy also, how much was that if you don't mind me asking? I just fabricated a rod holder/rocket launcher that's attached to the underside of aft hard top edge. I'll have to post some pictures in a few days. We just got another 4" of snow yesterday which has slowed my modification work on the boat.

I definitely like the aft canopy idea!

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Marc
2001 2859, 350 Merc MPI, "Bravo Zulu" South Haven, MI

2859 Owners 14 Apr 2017 19:22 #468

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Skeeter, Hope your healing well, we may be able to meet up with you on our way back from Kitimat this time. We just got 12" of wet snow and it's still coming down so we can't leave yet. That means we'll be coming back late this year. If you meet us on the road 250-784-5031 Flemming.

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1994 2859, volvo kad 42 230hp Dawson CK. BC

2859 Owners 15 Apr 2017 14:14 #469

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Hi Flemming
That sounds good. I'm leaving Montana April 29th and have room rsv's in McBride that night, I have to be in prince Rupert by 0200 on the 2nd.
My Ph.#406-925-1183
We have about 6" snow the normal April 14th storm.
Skeeter

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1994 2859 Bayliner Cierra Classic
7.4 Cu In 454 , 400HP New 2013:smileflag
New Bravo 3 outdrive 2011
My summer condo:D

2859 Owners 15 Apr 2017 16:02 #470

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Skeeter,It stopped snowing for now but ended up with about 18"of wet. May still be able to leave mid week once the roads have been cleaned up and start to dry, so that might work out about right. Flemming

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1994 2859, volvo kad 42 230hp Dawson CK. BC

2859 Owners 25 Apr 2017 17:03 #471

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Does anybody have an idea how to replace the screens on the cockpit side windows?

I'm looking to replace the screens and cannot find a way to remove them from the black plastic slide/frame rails. I'm thinking it would be easier to remove them from the rails, then lay them flat on a table and do the screen replacement. The only way I can see to replace the screens is to slide the windows open and access the rubber spline from the outside.

Not sure if anyone has removed the cockpit side windows/screens, any help/tips would be appreciated!

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Marc
2001 2859, 350 Merc MPI, "Bravo Zulu" South Haven, MI

2859 Owners 25 Apr 2017 23:25 #472

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BravoZulu wrote: Does anybody have an idea how to replace the screens on the cockpit side windows?

I'm looking to replace the screens and cannot find a way to remove them from the black plastic slide/frame rails. I'm thinking it would be easier to remove them from the rails, then lay them flat on a table and do the screen replacement. The only way I can see to replace the screens is to slide the windows open and access the rubber spline from the outside.

Not sure if anyone has removed the cockpit side windows/screens, any help/tips would be appreciated!


Screens?? Didnt even know they made 'em for these!

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97 2859

2859 Owners 25 Apr 2017 23:38 #473

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I have a leak coming from 2 of the bolts holding the (front) windshield in place. Moving the headliner (monkey fir) I found 2 of the bolts appear to have been broken off, the nut is missing the the bolt is about even with the fiberglass. The bolts are such that I cannot get a nut on them in their current condition. I will need to grind some of the fiberglass away, gently, and try to get a nut to seat on the bolt......

What I am wondering,,,,, has anyone seen what these bolts look like? The bolt head I mean.... Checking around the windshield from the deck I cannot see a bolt head anywhere, looking in the rain weep holes and after removing the rubber window trim doesn't help,,, no sign of the bolts at all.....

Is the bolt welded to the bottom of the window frame?

If I cannot get a nut on the bolts,,, what might be other options for getting the leak to stop? Possibly removing the window's rubber gasket and using something (caulk, miracle tape) to seal the window and frame to stop water from entering the window frame?

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Sometimes there's Justice, sometimes there's just us.

2859 Owners 26 Apr 2017 00:08 #474

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There are flat arched springs in the top rail of the screen, push up on the top rail until the bottom rail comes out. This is how I got mine out.
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1999 2859 Volvo D4 260 DPH:arr

2859 Owners 26 Apr 2017 00:12 #475

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Okay now my question. Does anyone know the degree of angle of the transom of the 2859?

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1999 2859 Volvo D4 260 DPH:arr
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