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TOPIC: 2452 Owners

2452 Owners 01 Nov 2015 00:04 #1926

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Thought I'd post a pic of what of the new SeaDog LED lights look like over the dinette. One is in "white light" (15 LEDs) mode, the other in "night" (6 red LEDs) mode. The Admiral says hi :-)

Between these 2, and the identical 2 over over the galley, there's a huge amount of light when needed and overall less current draw.

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2004 242EC 5.7 Merc/Bravo II

2452 Owners 01 Nov 2015 00:07 #1927

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Next update! Both the plastic mounting tabs for the head seat have broken off. Anyone know what replacements are needed? Here's a terribly blurry pic of what they look like (broken and all):



All for a model is that is that the hand pump says "Jabsco. I couldn't find a model or brand name on the head itself anywhere.

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2004 242EC 5.7 Merc/Bravo II

2452 Owners 01 Nov 2015 00:10 #1928

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Next update! The green light for the blower switch, the one that lights up when you turn the blowers on, broke at the tip (the bit that shows on the outside of the helm, not the bit behind the console). It's 11 years old and extremely brittle so I don't blame it -- I'd probably break too ;-). Is there a replacement for it that fits the same size of hole in the helm console? I have it wedged into place and it still works, it's just a bit sad looking for now.

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2004 242EC 5.7 Merc/Bravo II
Last Edit: by TilJ. Reason: Added a few more details

2452 Owners 01 Nov 2015 00:15 #1929

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Another stereo update! Added a wired remote for the stereo I'd previously upgraded. It now has power, ground, and is paralleled in to the cockpit light switch so that it lights up when I turn the lights on. The remaining (and fairly ugly) step is to run a single wire from it to the stereo so that the signals can be carried. I'm currently planning to go through the port-side conduit through the bathroom to behind the AC panel, then wire it to the stereo from there. I'm doing more research before committing to that though ... it might be easier to go on the starboard side and all around the the front of the boat and back to the stereo, following the speaker wires?

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2004 242EC 5.7 Merc/Bravo II

2452 Owners 01 Nov 2015 01:28 #1930

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Update on the lights. The replacement LED lights that plug into the existing housing finally arrived -- must've been the slow boat. I changed the lights out in the 2 "reading" lights in the V-berth as well as the one in the roof of the head.



I have 2 left over and my plan was to do the 2 in the cockpit roof but after removing the housing it turns out that they're a totally different bulb type:





Anyone know if there's a LED replacement for these?

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2004 242EC 5.7 Merc/Bravo II

2452 Owners 01 Nov 2015 03:23 #1931

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TilJ wrote: Update on the lights. The replacement LED lights that plug into the existing housing finally arrived -- must've been the slow boat. I changed the lights out in the 2 "reading" lights in the V-berth as well as the one in the roof of the head.



I have 2 left over and my plan was to do the 2 in the cockpit roof but after removing the housing it turns out that they're a totally different bulb type:





Anyone know if there's a LED replacement for these?


There are! Go to SuperBrightLEDs.com > LED car bulbs > Festoon base LED bulbs. :woohoo:
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2452 Owners 02 Nov 2015 13:17 #1932

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I looked at this last year. I bought some LED festoon lamps but they were a slightly different length to the incandescent type. I just mention this so you can check the length. My LED versions kept falling out.

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2452 Owners 02 Nov 2015 14:09 #1933

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TerryW wrote: I looked at this last year. I bought some LED festoon lamps but they were a slightly different length to the incandescent type. I just mention this so you can check the length. My LED versions kept falling out.


Good point... they come in several lengths... I forget the size 42mm? may be right but measure twice.. buy once...

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2452 Owners 02 Nov 2015 16:26 #1934

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I recently purchased a Load Rite Galvanized tandem ROLLER trailer for my 2452.

I got her out of the water and on the trailer with no problems at all, however Load Rite wasn't much help in the "fit and ride" department. I personally think the rollers should be widened out a bit but have absolutely nothing of which to reference.

If anybody out there has got some pic's of their 242 on a LoadRite or something similar it would be nice to see some actual pic's and get any advise that might be out there.

Specifically, is there a optimum height the chine should be relative to the top of the fender? I seem to be riding a bit high with very good tongue weight which would verify my opinion that my rollers should be widened a bit.

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2452 Owners 02 Nov 2015 18:47 #1935

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Randy911 wrote: I recently purchased a Load Rite Galvanized tandem ROLLER trailer for my 2452.

I got her out of the water and on the trailer with no problems at all, however Load Rite wasn't much help in the "fit and ride" department. I personally think the rollers should be widened out a bit but have absolutely nothing of which to reference.

If anybody out there has got some pic's of their 242 on a LoadRite or something similar it would be nice to see some actual pic's and get any advise that might be out there.

Specifically, is there a optimum height the chine should be relative to the top of the fender? I seem to be riding a bit high with very good tongue weight which would verify my opinion that my rollers should be widened a bit.


Personal preference but I like my center of gravity low... No matter what trailer (bunk or roller), I always had the rollers or bunks out toward the wheels to lower the hull so it was anywhere from 2"-8" to the top of the trailer fenders. Just be sure to measure so the chines don't sit on the rollers or bunks... As far as tongue weight. Mine currently is 747#'s which fits the 10-15% factor for our boats gross weight...
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"Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


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2452 Owners 05 Nov 2015 20:27 #1936

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Would appreciate information on the Air Draft/Bridge height for my 2452 Classic 1993.

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2452 Owners 05 Nov 2015 21:17 #1937

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oswinclose wrote: Would appreciate information on the Air Draft/Bridge height for my 2452 Classic 1993.


Depends on the trailer... Standard 4 wheel trailer with 15" wheels:

Rollers will normally make the boat ~11'10" w/o radar and bunks will make it lower by about 4-6"... This is based on what I have owned in the past with my '96 2452. I have a 12' door in my garage so I know what will fit under it...

Any bridge good for trucks is fine for you since they are 14' max unless a double decker bus which is 14'3"... Very few bridges are lower than 13' and those are on side roads not really designed for trucks. They should all be marked with height labels...

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2452 Owners 06 Nov 2015 01:21 #1938

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Not the greatest pictures, but here is mine on the trailer. I think mine sits too high on the trailer, especially for a tall, topheavy boat. I only use the trailer for winter storage tho, so I'm not going to worry about it.

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2452 Owners 06 Nov 2015 02:33 #1939

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Ponch.... its not that high... you'll be fine dragging it around...

Drop a tape from the top and I'd bet its still under 12'

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2452 Owners 06 Nov 2015 21:37 #1940

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To the top of the radar dome is just a hair under 13' on the trailer... And I do mean a hair!
It looks like there is about 10" gap between the wheel well and the hull. Wouldn't mind spreading rollers out to the sides to drop it a good 6". But again, I don't trailer it more than 5 miles 1x per year!

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01' 2452: 357mag with Bravo III (Yes B3!) "Fishin' for Ribbon"
85' Steiger Craft "Hunky Dory" 16 with original 25hp Johnson. "ShesGood!"
Last Edit: by Ponch. Reason: addition

2452 Owners 07 Nov 2015 01:17 #1941

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The other benefit of loading lower is that it floats on/off easier.
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2452 Owners 09 Nov 2015 13:32 #1942

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kwb wrote: The other benefit of loading lower is that it floats on/off easier.


+1 . . . . be sure you do "due diligence" and measure how high your outdrive is above the road bed too . . . . lower that baby too much and you could end up having some issues when you come to a dip or have to back up to a rise (like a driveway) . . . . you could also adjust the height of the trailer hitch to compensate for some of this "rear end drop" in case you lower the boat too far . . . :whistle:

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2452 Owners 09 Nov 2015 14:52 #1943

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Dadrock33 wrote:

kwb wrote: The other benefit of loading lower is that it floats on/off easier.


+1 . . . . be sure you do "due diligence" and measure how high your outdrive is above the road bed too . . . . lower that baby too much and you could end up having some issues when you come to a dip or have to back up to a rise (like a driveway) . . . . you could also adjust the height of the trailer hitch to compensate for some of this "rear end drop" in case you lower the boat too far . . . :whistle:


Anytime one travels down the road, one should have outdrive ram supports. You can buy them for less than $30 or just do as I have done and used thick1" PVC instead. Not shown in my home made ones are the holes I drilled near each end and the string I tied to allow me to grab them and pull them off the rams These first two below are commercial type:





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2452 Owners 27 Nov 2015 17:12 #1944

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I am thinking of adding a kicked motor to my 01 2452. Would a 20" shaft be ok for freshwater trolling. I use the boat mainly on Lake Tahoe which can get 3' to 4' waves which I probably would not be out trolling in. I have a line on an almost new 04 9.9 merc. Bigfoot 25" shaft without power trim at 130lbs. It would be difficult to manually tilt that motor up so I may pass on that one but are most of you using 20" shafts on your kickers? Thanks

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2452 Owners 27 Nov 2015 21:39 #1945

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I have a 15hp Honda four stroke long shaft. I had to move my 2 deep cycle house batteries to the other side to balance it out.

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2452 Owners 28 Nov 2015 01:06 #1946

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Go Aweigh2452 wrote: Dave, you will find a lot of things you can do to improve your 2452.... and we do a good job helping you spend money... (makes us feel good too...) :evil:

I think one of the best mods would be the bigger drop fin trim tabs...

Welcome and enjoy the 1800+ thread...

I have some of my older mods in my signature on my 2001 2452 and need to update that as I added a bunch more... these guys here have a ton of knowledge on our boats so don't worry about asking questions...


Doug,
I was looking at interior mods you've done and noticed you use the Xintex 2 tank display gauge. What made you choose this over the SCAD gauges?

Dave

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2452 Owners 28 Nov 2015 03:21 #1947

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pumpkinhead wrote:

Go Aweigh2452 wrote: Dave, you will find a lot of things you can do to improve your 2452.... and we do a good job helping you spend money... (makes us feel good too...) :evil:

I think one of the best mods would be the bigger drop fin trim tabs...

Welcome and enjoy the 1800+ thread...

I have some of my older mods in my signature on my 2001 2452 and need to update that as I added a bunch more... these guys here have a ton of knowledge on our boats so don't worry about asking questions...


Doug,
I was looking at interior mods you've done and noticed you use the Xintex 2 tank display gauge. What made you choose this over the SCAD gauges?

Dave


Actually, I am in the middle of dumping them and using the system with the foil outside the tanks. I already cut the hole for the control unit and just need to connect wires... I will install a 2" clock in the hole created by the Xintex display. I have replaced the tubes going into the tanks twice and finally gave up on them... hence the new tank monitor system... It can do up to 8 tanks... If I can manage, I will try to also connect the gas tank but still figuring out how to attach the foil strips to the gas tank...

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2452 Owners 28 Nov 2015 03:22 #1948

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Blackeyes wrote: I have a 15hp Honda four stroke long shaft. I had to move my 2 deep cycle house batteries to the other side to balance it out.


I think the 2001 and newer 2452/242 finally got the list problem fixed with the batteries on the stbd and the kicker on the port side...

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2452 Owners 28 Nov 2015 23:45 #1949

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Doug, do you have a long shaft(20") or an extra long shaft(25") on your kicker motor and do you have it hooked up to your main starting battery or the house batteries. Thanks

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My Three Boats: 2001 14' Klamath 15hp Merc, 2002 Bayliner 195 Capri-4.3, 2001 2452 5.7-B2

2452 Owners 29 Nov 2015 03:21 #1950

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buckhorn7 wrote: Doug, do you have a long shaft(20") or an extra long shaft(25") on your kicker motor and do you have it hooked up to your main starting battery or the house batteries. Thanks


Long shaft and it is hooked up to the starting battery since it also charges that battery while it is running. I think most kickers 8hp and up have that ability so it only makes sense to hook it up to the starting battery...

Even if it does not have a charger in the kicker, I would hook up to the deep cycle (starting) battery since it can take a lot of power (cold cranking amps) to start a kicker...
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