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TOPIC: 3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 08 Sep 2017 03:17 #1

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I have been all over the boat trying to find out what stray current I might have. I can not locate. I am having an issue with the rudder developing pits.
Bonded, has zincs on rudder. See picture. The ground spots are from me cleaning it up when out of water.

Any advise would be much appreciated.

Can't add pic. Not sure why.

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Last Edit: by Bludool1.

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 08 Sep 2017 03:55 #2

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trying to add picture

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3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 08 Sep 2017 12:55 #3

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1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
Anacortes, WA

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 08 Sep 2017 13:37 #4

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I don't know where you are located but I have 2 good used rudders for sale $1500 for both or $800 for 1

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1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge twin 454's

1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hull#23

1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop hull#24
Twin chevy 350's

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 18 Sep 2017 04:53 #5

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Sand them to see how bronze they are after the pitting is gone
If they are pink that's not good.
I've had a few boats with this issue

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2001 Bayliner 3988 330 hp Cummins 6bta m3
950
Located in Blaine Harbour Marina

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 18 Sep 2017 14:07 #6

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Bludool1 wrote: I have been all over the boat trying to find out what stray current I might have. I can not locate. I am having an issue with the rudder developing pits.
Bonded, has zincs on rudder. See picture. The ground spots are from me cleaning it up when out of water.


That is strange with your rudder equipped with zinc's. This assumes you're using the right anode material for your water type- fresh, salt, etc. and no one has accidentally intermixed anode metal types, i.e. aluminum anodes with zinc anodes, which can compromise protection as I understand it.

I suggest buying the following:

1. The reference electrode which allows testing in the water of your bonding system. Yeah, it's $125, but how much does ANY damage add up to $$?
www.boatzincs.com/corrosion-reference-electrode.html

2. Nigel Caulder's book 'Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual' which gives a detailed procedure on testing, along with a tremendous amount of information on other subjects. Looks like they have used copies cheap.
www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Ele...ential/dp/0071432388

Be methodical in your approach and document readings as you go. My two cents, Dean

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Dean
'True Story'
1987 3218 w/135's
Des Moines, WA

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 18 Sep 2017 16:42 #7

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Plus one on Nigel's book. I bought it for electrical ground fault investigation but I've found it's a whole lot more.

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P/C Pete
Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
1988 3818 "GLAUBEN"
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Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 18 Sep 2017 17:16 #8

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Make sure you have a b0nding strap on the rudder shaft inside, also you should have a shaft wipe for bonding the 2 shafts, all connected together with 8 ga green jacketed wire connected to the engine block.
Everything with zincs should be bonded together including the transom zinc. Then check the bonding system with a meter as suggested.

I just returned to Florida from Alaska, I may have a spare silver/silver chloride half cell in like new condition, it is my spare, it has a long cable.
Give me a day or 2 to find it, I am hoping I brought it back, it will cost much less than the $150.00 model suggested.

Still looking for the half cell.
I use a pro Mariner analog meter and half cell, $288 street price, $255 at Fisheries supply with a commercial account, includes half cell and meter.


www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&...AFeg9CBS_pkx5P81J8MQ

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Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
Twin 350 GM power
Located in Seward, AK
Retired marine surveyor
Last Edit: by boatworkfl.

3288 bayliner with rudder pitting issue 18 Sep 2017 21:54 #9

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Bought the reference electrode from Boat Zinc. May try it out this weekend. I spoke directly with Boat zinc, and they recommended taking the rudders out of the bonding, as long as I have zincs on them.

Will let everyone know how it works.

Thanks

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