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TOPIC: winterizing 4788

winterizing 4788 07 Sep 2017 02:42 #1

  • vpool
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Anyone have experience / advice on winterizing a 4788?

Thanks - Bob

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winterizing 4788 07 Sep 2017 05:03 #2

  • vinomaker
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I am on the hard in Anacortes, WA for the winter and have winterized 2 seasons.

I drain out all the fresh water via faucets. I use a compressor to blow out the water lines one at a time from the water pump outlet. I open each faucet one by one starting with the furthest from the pump and blow air through each line to clear any water. Air does not freeze. I drain the water heater.

I have a hose inlet cap for the sea strainer. I run salt away through the engines and then anti-freeze. I then remove the raw water impellers so they do not sit on one position for months on end.

I drain the ice maker too. I have some radiator heaters that come on if the ambient temperature gets down to freezing and I have a couple of electric de-humidifiers. I leave a port hole cracked open a bit in the forward stateroom with a fan running pushing air down the passage way up to the salon and pilot house.

Batteries are topped up.

Same procedure for the generator as the main engines.

I hope this helps.

Jerome
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Cheers!
Vinomaker
Jerome Robbins
Rear Commodore, Fidalgo Yacht Club
Anacortes, WA
2001 Bayliner 4788
Twin 370 Cummins
1994 Bayliner Ciera 2855 454 V8-7.4L
1994 Bayliner Classic 2252 V6-5.2L
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winterizing 4788 07 Sep 2017 11:23 #3

  • smitty477
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1995 4788 Bayliner Winterize
(Dry Storage)



A/C-Raw Water
1 Ensure seacock closed.
2 Remove cover from sea-strainer under sole of main cabin floor
3 Set A/C breakers to “ON”
4 Use forward A/C control to turn on Raw water A/C pump while pouring:
a. Saltaway into sea-strainer
b. Pour 1 to 1 ½ gallons of domestic antifreeze into the sea-strainer
5 Ensure antifreeze has come out of all three raw-water A/C outlets
6 Remove and save pump drain plugs for re-commissioning

Alternate method A/C
1. Remove drain plugs from raw water pump
2. Use wetvac to pull water from each through hull opening (3)
3. While removing water from each through hull, temporarily block the other 2 with tape
4. Visit each through hull in order until no water exits, then repeat one more time

Fresh Water System
1 Run system dry
2 Drain hot water heater from drain on heater & open pressure lever
3 Bypass heater by removing and re-attaching heater “COLD” line to heater “HOT” line. Use the short attachment coupler made for this usage.
4 Heater is done, leave valves open
5 Pour 3 to 4 gallons of domestic antifreeze into fresh water tanks (2) and run all faucets beginning with farthest one until you see color.

Alternate method (preferred) : disconnect water tanks at tank side, disconnect water pressure pump at pump outlet, use wetvac attached in place of water pump to pull water out, beginning with farthest faucet, in order ‘hot’ and ‘cold’:

a. Forward Wash Down
b. Master shower
c. Master sink
d. Washer
e. Guest shower
f. Guest sink

g. Rear shower
h. Rear wash down
i. Bar sink
j. Ice maker (2 places)
k. Galley sink



Repeat the entire sequence in order expecting no additional water out.

6 With system filled with domestic antifreeze, or vacuumed clear, open lines at both sides of pump and remove caps at hot and cold ‘ends’ in mid bilge.
7 Leave all faucets and caps open until ready for use, disconnect water at ice maker inlet and washer
8 Disconnect lines from the (2) freshwater tanks and leave open if not done so already
9 Move wetvac to inlet pipe side of water pump and alternately remove all water from each water tank line by selecting the valves one at a time - repeat each line once again.

Shower and Sink Drains with pumps
1 Pour ½ gallon of domestic antifreeze into drain while operating pump in mid bath
2 Open , clean filter, and vacuum dry shower sump pump

Heads (2)
1 Follow owners manual for Bayliner or do as follows
2 Add 1 gallon of domestic antifreeze to each head when bowl is dry and pump to holding tank until “dry”
3 Operate head pump-out switch until holding tank is empty

Main Engines (2)
1 Remove and replace primary fuel filter (every other season for 1,000 miles)
2 Remove and replace secondary fuel filter (or per vacuum gauge)
3 Drain water separator (likely nothing)
4 Add fuel additive to fuel tank (stabilizer)
5 Prime fuel system
6 Change oil while warm
7 Remove and replace oil filters (2 per engine, lube & bypass)
8 Add clean oil (13.5 qts each)
9 Remove and replace transmission fluid every 2nd season (5.5 qts Dexron III)
10 Chemically clean transmission filters (throttle body cleaner)
11 Drain antifreeze every second season – save to use later – 2 petcocks per engine
12 Add new antifreeze and distilled water 50/50
13 Start engine – if not warm, wait until gauge begins to show improvement
14 When warm, close seacock and remove hose
*Alternate method (preferred) for steps 14-16 listed after step 27
15 Use raw water hose to flush with fresh water first, then flush with Saltaway while running engine
16 Use raw water hose and “used” antifreeze to add to engine while running until shut down. 5 gallons of antifreeze mix is more than sufficient to flush system
17 Remove air cleaner – plug with oily rag
18 Clean air cleaner for next season and store
19 Close fuel petcocks
20 Tape fuel tank vents closed with oil-soaked rags if outside
21 Grease fuel tank fill caps with waterproof grease (superlube)
22 Pull raw water impellers
23 Check raw water drain tubes for blockages at cutlass bearing by removing hose
24 Plug exhaust with oily rags
25 Drain exhaust mufflers
26 Relax fan belts
27 The mains are now ready for next seasons use by just clearing the vent line, air cleaner inlet and exhaust ports. Remember to open fuel petcocks, replace impeller, tighten fan belt and replace drain plugs
*Alternate to steps 14-17 without removing raw water hoses
a. Close seacock and vacuum strainer dry
b. Remove impeller
c. Remove hose from trans cooler to manicooler
d. With vacuum pulling at raw water pump pour 1 gallon of antifreeze into hose at trans cooler outlet, should see coolant at vacuum shortly
e. Vacuum seacock hose to strainer with strainer lid off but seacock closed.


Generator is the same as above except:
1 Only 1 oil filter
2 (2) 2nd fuel filters (not needed each year, every 2nd season)
3 Different capacities – see handbook (5 qts oil)
4 There is a pencil zinc in the heat exchanger

Strainers – Main (2), Generator (1), A/C (1), S/W Washdown (1)
1 Open strainer and vacuum out water
2 Clean as necessary
3 Partial fill with domestic antifreeze
4 Grease seacock
5 Leave open until before launch

Hydraulic steering
1. Lower pressure in reservoir to 5 psi or less for winter
2. Back to 20-25 psi for use in spring

Zincs
As listed on maintenance sheet

Shaft Packing Glands
1 Done with Teflon flax and Tefgel
2 Most likely good for two seasons (check last change on maintenance sheet)
3 If adjusted, follow handbook – VERY LITTLE tightening is required

Ron & Karen Krupka
“No Worries”
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