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TOPIC: window frame corrosion and repair

window frame corrosion and repair 28 Mar 2007 23:37 #1

  • ricks3988
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Hello all
My 3988 which is new to me has some pitting and corrosion in some spots on some of the windows. I believe it is not uncommon, I certainly noticed this on other boats I looked at.

I am wondering if anyone has had experience with fixing this?
I am planning to fix this by painting the window frames with an awlgrip type of paint and probably recaulking the window seams to finnish off the fix. I am also wondering about sanding the area were pitting ocurrs and filling wiith an epoxy or something like that then painting. Any experience with this is appreciated.
Rick

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window frame corrosion and repair 29 Mar 2007 01:23 #2

  • brad4550
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Hi Rick
I have repaired several window frames in the past, You must sand all the old
paint off,and fill any pitting with a metal type filler,and sand some more.Then
prep the bare metal with zinc-chrommate,the finish off with a good quality paint.I have used Interlux bright sides.Good Luck You can blame bayliner for not having the mfg. prep the window frames properly,they were cutting cost.:arr

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Brad & Sharon
Lady Jake
1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
LaConner,Wa. (summer)
2003 Scout CC 24' W/225 Yamaha
kailua Kona,Hi (Winter)

window frame corrosion and repair 29 Mar 2007 05:57 #3

  • MerlinV
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Rick,
I have experienced the same problem on our '01 4087 (and '97 3258 before that). Other posts are correct, it's due to poor prep during manuafacture where the drainage slots are cut AFTER the frame has been anodized. This problem seems to be mainly with the black finish frames, as I have seen many much older boats with silver/gray finish with no signs of corrosion.

I recall that Joe (from NY) had the same problem on his 3988, and had lots of correspondence with the factory. They recommended that the area was scraped & sanded, filled if required, and then repainted using a zinc chromate primer as a base.

I carried out this fix on one window frame, and plan to do the other side this summer. I thought the surface was good enough to skip the filler, wet sanded the entire frame and sprayed on the zinc chromate primer. This primer is really watery, and has to be misted on in very thin layers otherwise it will run everywhere. Once the whole thing was primed, I used Tremclad satin finish enamel as a topcoat to complete the repair. The result was OK, but a few lessons were learned.

1. After you have removed the blistering paint (plus some aluminum corrosion) sanded the area down, don't be tempted to skip on the filler, as even though the treated area may look smooth, it probably isn't as smooth as the surfaces around it. When the final finish is applied, any surface discrepancy is highly visible.

2. No matter what the weather is like, I can not emphasize how far away from the repair site you need to mask the boat and cover horizontal surfaces. The amount of masking tape & paper I used was huge, and extended for over two feet above, and three feet to each side of the repair. Below the repair all of the walkway was completely covered plus the side rails. This repair was carried out in a covered slip, on a warm still day, and even though the masking seemed to take forever, I ended up having to use cut polish up to eight feet away from the repair to remove the overspray dust which had adhered to the gelcoat.

3. One of my neighbors on the dock carried out the same job without any spraypaint, and elected to hand paint the whole thing with fairly good results. For the amount of time and effort required with masking and the aftermath, this may be the better way to go.

Good Luck

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Rob
Bayliner 5788
'Merlin V'
Vancouver BC

window frame corrosion and repair 29 Mar 2007 09:42 #4

  • harbordawg
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I am afraid that the problem is not just limited to black frames, I have an 04 490 with white frames and I have the same problem! Actually the problem even extends to the doors. I have noticed the same problem on most of the 490's I've looked at that are at least 2 years old.

It would seem that since this has been an ongoing problem for years. You would think that Bayliner, and now Meridian, would have remedied the problem. They still don't acknowledge the issue unless it is reported during the warranty period.

Maybe if enough of us owners would issue a common complaint and threaten to inform perspective buyers, Bayliner/Meridian would repair their faulty workmanship, and correct the problem at the factory on new boats.

Alan
harbordawg

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window frame corrosion and repair 29 Mar 2007 11:36 #5

  • joebooa
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Rob is correct I did have the same problem and corresponded with factory. The fix is as he stated in the post. I did mine last fall with a complete sanding to bare metal , primed and then painted. I actually had a local guy do the work mostly because of time. So far looks great.

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Joe
Green Eyed Lady
Sandy Hook NJ

window frame corrosion and repair 29 Mar 2007 12:10 #6

  • steelwrk1
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Hello Rick,
I had saved this from a previuos discussion on BOC;


BAYLINER® OWNERS' CLUB
> Motoryacht - 06
> HOW DO I PAINT WINDOWFRAMES BLACK?


>
Author Comment
Mag
Local user
Posts: 133
(7/27/06 12:57 pm)
Reply HOW DO I PAINT WINDOWFRAMES BLACK?

I have the 3486-89 with dull grey windowframes. They are in excellent shape but I woulde like to paint them black for more style. How should it be done and will the paint stay on? I saw a picture of a similar boat in the photo album section and it looked great. Rgrds Mag

CindyLou3
Registered User
Posts: 95
(7/27/06 4:44 pm)
Reply Re: HOW DO I PAINT WINDOWFRAMES BLACK?
Our 3888 had the same aluminum frames, I think. I purchased a good primer, cleaned the frames really good, and primed them. We then applied a gloss black enamel exterior that we purchased at a paint store. The paint has stayed on for 3 years without any issues. Hope this helps. But I would consult a regular paint store for the proper primer and paint.

Joe

Mag
Local user
Posts: 134
(7/27/06 10:40 pm)
Reply Re: HOW DO I PAINT WINDOWFRAMES BLACK?
Thanks. Did you paint with a brush or spray? If brush, how is the finish? rgrds Mag

chancesare
Registered User
Posts: 950
(7/28/06 7:38 am)
Reply Paint
Krylon and others make a matt black for automotive black trim, goes on well and lasts in a harsh environment. It comes in a spray can, so you can't beat it for ease of application.

If you're up to the application process, the urethanes are just about indestructible, but the "degree of difficulty" goes up by several orders of magnitude. [/COLOR]


Hope this helps,
Regards,
Pete

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window frame corrosion and repair 26 Sep 2007 05:23 #7

  • ricks3988
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Hello All

Thank you to everyone who replied and offered their experience re the windows.

This month I sanded, prepped, primed and painted my starboard windows.
First I removed all of the screws, window channel flox, rubber trim and caulking. The window glass stayed in the frame. My windows had some minor corrosion around the weep holes. Once I started sanding, it was clear in my case that it was the paint around the weep holes that had lifted from the aluminum and there was no corrosion or pitting. It was very easy sanding to bare metal just around the weep holes where ever the paint had lifted. I very lightly abraded the original paint finnish but not to bare metal on the rest of the frame to give some teeth for the new paint. Wet/Dry 180 to 220 grit wrapped around a block the size of the frames worked well for sanding.
Next, wearing gloves I cleaned it all with acetone. I then masked the windows and hull. I sprayed an acid etch primer on the parts of the window were I had sanded to bare metal. It is not necessary to prime the parts of the frame which have a good base, at least with the coating I used. As I understand it, acid etch primer does the same thing as Zinc Chromate.

Finally I painted the top coat. I used a product called Por 15 Chassis coat black. Check it out on the internet. It is a satin finnish and I believe it will be tougher than the original in fact I think it maybe bullet proof, and it looks good. I applied 3 coats light sanding between.

I learned afew things that can improve the process when I do the rest. I will order the window flox before I start. The original stuff shrinks abit and wears. I have ordered the acid etch primer in a can so I don't have to wait for calm wind. I love the Por 15. You only use about a 1/4 of a pint per window coat. I will use a teaspoon or so of xylene to thin the Por 15 Chassis coat black and apply very thin coats with an 1" or so foam brush.

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Cheers Rick

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