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TOPIC: winterizing water heater

winterizing water heater 29 Sep 2007 03:16 #1

  • yachtman32
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What is the problem with running the pink stuff thru the water heater? Is it just the taste and smell of the water when you fire it back up in the spring? Mine didn't seem to drain well last year and I am considering running the pink AF thru it. Any thoughts?

thanks,Jim

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winterizing water heater 29 Sep 2007 04:01 #2

  • The Other Gary
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That is a lot of AF and yes it does leave a taste and odour for several tanks in the spring.
The easiest way to drain the tank is to attach a hose from the drain tap into the bilge and flip the lever on the pressure/ temp valve to let air into the tank. Don't worry about getting every last drop out, just empty it so that a freeze will not crack the tank.

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winterizing water heater 30 Sep 2007 14:32 #3

  • CindyLou3
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I've done it both ways. Of course it does take extra AF if you don't drain it and by-pass it. But, on the other hand, it is easier to just drain the entire system and fill with AF and then in the spring you don't have to mess around with re-connecting the water heater.

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winterizing water heater 30 Sep 2007 15:16 #4

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thanks for the replys, I bypassed it yesterday but it wouldn't drain well so I might hook it back up and fill with AF. Your right it would be all hooked up and ready to flush the spring, thats a plus!

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"Amore"
Pend Orielle Lake, Idaho
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winterizing water heater 30 Sep 2007 15:24 #5

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If you don't bypass the water heater you will have to fill it full before you can push antifreeze through the hot water system to the sinks. That means you use 8 or 10 or whatever gallons more antifreeze, and that's 10 gallons more antifreeze into the environment when you flush. Granted you'll be using non-toxic AF, but it's still not something to dump without reason.

Be sure you probe the tank's drain hole to ensure it isn't plugged with sediment. Open the pressure relief valve as a vent. It should drain.

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winterizing water heater 30 Sep 2007 22:21 #6

  • Dr Prop
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I have a 1989 32xx where is the drain hole for the hot water tank? I've never found it. But just as you enter the "cave" there are two water lines that each have a T and a nipple that is capped, are you draining from there when you open the pressure valve?

Thanks

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winterizing water heater 30 Sep 2007 22:46 #7

  • MidnightSun
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Your tank not seeming to drain properly is because it needs some inlet open somewhere down the line. I always just flip the overpressure release handle? found right at the tank. This allows air in and the tank will drain effortlessly. Guess you could just open the hot water at any tap but I have not personally done so.

As for the drain location, it's a valve at the base of the hot water tank. Just open it up and it will empty into the rear bilge.

EDIT; sorry Mike, did not read your post. Kinda just repeated what you said did'nt I?

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 03:14 #8

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Sorry no valve on my tank

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 09:43 #9

  • rbmitchell
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No pressure/temperature valve? No a legal installation. Add one.

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 10:53 #10

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Drains are often plugs, not valves. Look for it right at the bottom of the tank.

There will be an over-pressure protection PRV unless removed and ploggued by PO, but opening a hot water faucet will do the same think and vent you for draining.

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 11:22 #11

  • Rob Gordon
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Hey...I have a 3288 with a hot water tank ( I think its 13 gallons). The first year I had the boat I drained it and then flooded the whole water system with pink stuff...terrible thing to do, in my experience. Water smelled and tasted of it all year. Even when mixed 50/50 with black rum you could still tatse it.
Last year I drained the whole system, including the tank, and then took a wet vacumn to the beast.
I opened the in-line starined and removed the wire stariner and taped the hose tight to make a seal and turned on vacumn...its sucks about eight gallons of water from the whole system before nothing more flowed. (and that was after I left all the facets on until the system ran dry!!!)
I removed the drain plug from the hotwater tanks and did the same thing.
Cold winter no problems and no problems re-activating the system in the spring.
Rum is back to normal tatse.

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 16:22 #12

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Sorry guys there is a over pressure valve but no drain plug thanks for the help !!!

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 17:15 #13

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Ok, you guys, I hope you are kidding about using antifreeze in your drinking water tank. I does not take very much to kill you.

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 19:33 #14

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We are talking about the pink (Red Pop) stuff it's safe and it's made for water systems

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winterizing water heater 01 Oct 2007 21:16 #15

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drphil;73814 wrote: Ok, you guys, I hope you are kidding about using antifreeze in your drinking water tank. I does not take very much to kill you.

Dr Prop;73862 wrote: We are talking about the pink (Red Pop) stuff it's safe and it's made for water systems


As the Doc says - the anti-freeze we're refering to is designed specifically for potable water systems.

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winterizing water heater 02 Oct 2007 01:16 #16

  • Mikalkc
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I recently read of an other method of "winterizing" your fresh water system. The gentleman used about 4-5 gallons of the cheapest vodka he could find instead of pink AF. He said there was no bad taste in the spring and his boat had a funny smile on it all winter. :D

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winterizing water heater 02 Oct 2007 13:34 #17

  • lolar3288
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Dr Prop;73786 wrote: Sorry guys there is a over pressure valve but no drain plug thanks for the help !!!


There should be a plastic drain at the bottom of the tank that has a drain tube going to the bilge. On mine it is a white plastic fitting that looks just like a coupling but is really a valve as well. You turn the sleeve nearest the tank to open it. I usually use my shop vac to vacuum the water out of my tank (and all my water system including fresh water tank) before adding antifreeze. I also have bypass valves to pump antifreeze into the piping system first, then I open the bypass and pump some antifreeze into the hot water tank (not fill it!)

Lookout for the pink stuff as it is deceivingly rated. It is not good to -45 only about -15. If you read the label carefully, it states it will protect copper pipe to -45 but will only protect plastic pipe to -15 and that is in the pure form with no water added. The base to this non-toxic antifreeze is propylene glycol (a diol alcohol), It comes in three grades that I know of, pink -45 (-15), greenish -75 (-45) and purplish -100 (-65). As the colours are dye (it is actually colourless) they may vary between suppliers. In your engine I would only use the green or purple as you can’t prevent some mixing with water. I use a propylene glycol hydrometer to test my system after I winterize it. You can get one at NAPA for under $10.

Hot water tanks are a pain to drain and if you thin out the pink stuff you could lose the tank. I had one tank (SS one) freeze and crack a few years ago because I didn’t get enough antifreeze into it. Now I vacuum out the whole system first, then add antifreeze.

Larry

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Larry
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