I know the oil is supposed to drain out of the filter housing (into the block) if you open the vent screw and unscrew (a couple of turns) on the large hex head drain bolt. Some how it doesn't work for me. I warm up the engines and then open the vent screw & drain bolt, leaving it open, while I pump out the oil from the crank case. Then I attend to the filter change, making a hell of a mess. What am I doing wrong?
Try using a small screwdriver or punch to make a hole in the top of the filter
use the same procedure as you always have to change oil but before removing the filter wipe the top with a clean rag and place a piece of tape
over the hole that you punched.Put a couple of absorbent pads under the
filter area then remove the filter. This seems to help drain the filter but not
100%. The important thing is to clean up the mess then place another clean
pad under the area so when you run the engine after replacing the oil you can check for leaks. Mounting the filters remotely would be the answer but I have
yet to find a place that they would be out of the way but easy to access.
The diesels use a filter cartridge inside a cannister, not a spin-on type. So don't punch a hole in the canister or you will be buying a new one.
Actually what you are doing sounds about as good as I've ever been able to get it. Warm your engines to operating temperature. Then after you shut down, open the vent plug in the top of the canister and open the large nut down on the filter mount. Then go to sucking the oil out of your engine. When it's time to change the filter, I stuff a bunch of rags around the canister and down on the bilge deck. After I have the filter changed, I then put the rags in a 5 gallon pail to get them out of the bilge without getting oil everywhere. Our Goodwill store sells bags of rags and that's what I use. Yes, oil is going to spill, but certainly not the quart the canister holds. There was a guy some years ago that made a remote filter adapter. I eventually found him, but he no longer makes it.
And if some does do better than that, I'd like to hear how, too!
Sorry about the sugggestion to poke a hole in your oil filter. I didn't realize
that the 110,s had a filter system different than the 150,s. Whatever the case may be it doesn't take much old oil on white fiberglass to make the job of changing oil frustrating to say the least.
The 150 & 210 have a spin on and the 110 and most 135 have a canister type oil filters. Both are frustrating to change out. On the 150/210 there is a drain bolt under the housing. It helps but still is messy.
On my 88 3270 with 135's, the filter drains out through the bottom of the filter base assembly. Loosen and take out the large bolt (26MM) on the right bottom side of the filter base and the oil comes out. ( Watch out as there is a large spring and piston on the back side) I put an aluminum meat loaf pan (approx 6 inches) under the hole and catch 99.5% of the oil. I can change the filter with only a few drops getting onto the rag and none into the bilge. I use the aluminum meat loaf pan because you can bend it to shape under the plug hole and you can get them in any grocery store.