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TOPIC: First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated

First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 06 Sep 2017 16:45 #1

  • Aircraftbuilder
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Appreciate any input on this topic......which is the best items to do to winterize the boat? This will be my first winter storage as a boat owner.

If you fog the engine, how do you run antifreeze through the water system with out the engine running.
Is it sufficient to drain the water by removing hoses and freeze plugs?
Would you recommend back filling with anti freeze?
Do you leave the plug in or take it out?
Should I wrap up the outdrive in a tarp?
Any suggestions to prevent mold in the interior while it's covered up?
Do you keep the engine cover on, off or "displaced" to allow air circulation?
Full fuel tank treated or empty?
How much angle do you keep on the boat...... balancing the outdrive position with having some angle to drain any water that somehow gets in?
Is it worth it to put the trailer on jack stands to get the weight off the tires?
Anything else I missed?

A couple of givens are removing the battery and having the outdrive in the down position. Also have tire covers and will loosen the tie downs. Will be changing engine and drive oil.

My location is PA, so we get some pretty hard cold spells. Figure I have about a month of boating left because October starts hunting season.

Thanks for any advice and secret tips for "successful" over wintering.

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| 2052 LS | 3.0L MerCruiser | Alpha I Gen II | Spifire 14" x 19"p | 1996 |
| Reading PA |

First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 06 Sep 2017 16:55 #2

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Aircraftbuilder wrote: Appreciate any input on this topic......which is the best items to do to winterize the boat? This will be my first winter storage as a boat owner.

If you fog the engine, how do you run antifreeze through the water system with out the engine running.
Personally I think engine fogging is a waste of time and money unless you are storing your engine for years.
Is it sufficient to drain the water by removing hoses and freeze plugs?
Blow out what you can.
Would you recommend back filling with anti freeze?
I know people that do this, I've never seen air freeze.
Do you leave the plug in or take it out?
When I winterize, I put everything back the way it was. Makes life simple come spring.
Should I wrap up the outdrive in a tarp?
Don't see why not.
Any suggestions to prevent mold in the interior while it's covered up?
A proper dehumidifier but another option is ensure you have ventilation to the outside air. Depends on how wet your winters are, but cold is good.
Do you keep the engine cover on, off or "displaced" to allow air circulation?
Your engine does not need air circulation. It's inanimate.
Full fuel tank treated or empty?
Empty is cheaper. The theory of storing tanks full I believe to be profit motivated. The marine fuel I use is ethanol free and treated, so I can store it any way I like.
How much angle do you keep on the boat...... balancing the outdrive position with having some angle to drain any water that somehow gets in?
Makes sense but better to keep the water out I imagine.
Is it worth it to put the trailer on jack stands to get the weight off the tires?
Not in my opinion
Anything else I missed?
You will find out :) Lots of good help and suggestions here.

A couple of givens are removing the battery and having the outdrive in the down position. Also have tire covers and will loosen the tie downs. Will be changing engine and drive oil.

My location is PA, so we get some pretty hard cold spells. Figure I have about a month of boating left because October starts hunting season.

Thanks for any advice and secret tips for "successful" over wintering.

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First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 06 Sep 2017 17:00 #3

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In no particular order....

I always run antifreeze through the engine before removing drain plugs. Some will argue that it is unnecessary but it is a small amount of dollars for peace of mind.
When I drain the antifreeze I catch it and save for next year. You can use it over and over again but is ensures that the little nooks and crannies don't freeze.
Fog the engine after dealing with the antifreeze and drain plugs.
Use a couple of dri-z-airs under the tarp. If you can tarp it in such a way that there is a gap for airflow then even better. plus one dri-z-air under the engine cover.
Plugs out and tilt so that the water will drain if it gets in
I don't put on blocks but I do remove the lug nuts from the tire that is the least in view. Nobody has ever tried to steal the boat but if they do I hope that they would receive a nice surprise as they try to drive off.
Anything that can come out of the boat and be stored indoors is always a good thing - keeps the mustiness out.
Fuel tank full and with stabilizer (which you ran through during the antifreeze stage)
Tilt the drive up and down several times to drain water.
Don't forget to change the oil and leg oil BEFORE storing. Keeps the acids in the fluids from causing any damage during storage.
Detail and wax the boat now before storage - it makes clean up in the spring so much easier.
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First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 06 Sep 2017 17:46 #4

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I do all the items I can do,oil change, outdrive oil, fuel stabilization etc.

I then take my boat to my local maintenance facility and have them finish winterizing the boat. Fog engine, antifreeze in system etc. The cost is minimal usually less than $200. My reasoning is if something is missed and freezes and breaks I have repercussion with them as they winterized the boat.
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Kevin & Robyn
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First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 06 Sep 2017 21:07 #5

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Does your 3.0L have the block and manifold quick drain hoses? If so, all you really need to do is drain the water from these two. Some rig a shop vac to suck out the rest of the water. You can fill with antifreeze afterwards if you wanted.

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My process for our lake boat with the 3.0L:
- run engine on muffs up to temperature
- spray Sea Foam into carb until engine stumbles and runs rough - then shut off engine (engine fogging)
- remove plugs (one at a time) -- spray a shot of Sea Foam into each cylinder
- remove drain hoses, and drain water from block and manifolds
- remove drain plug and leave it on the front seat of the boat along with wrench (so I don't forget to reinstall it)
- cover boat with tarp
- raise trailer so that any water will drain out the drain plug
- lower drive as low as possible (for me I lower the drive before tipping the trailer, make sure all water drains out of leg, but have to raise the drive before I can tip the trailer).
- remove battery -- do not store on a cold concrete floor
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Terry
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First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 07 Sep 2017 00:41 #6

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run antifreeze thru engine and outdrive store outdrive fully down to drain ,as far as fogging you have to do it at the end of your anti freeze process thats the only way you can do it right
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1988 flybridge trophy bayliner 2556 ,mercury 5.7 lit. OMC cobra out drive 76 hrs. on new package,
located in ketchikan ak,name DOMINION

First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 07 Sep 2017 00:57 #7

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Unfortunately I don't have that very convenient looking fixture........ bummer. Thanks for the tips!

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| 2052 LS | 3.0L MerCruiser | Alpha I Gen II | Spifire 14" x 19"p | 1996 |
| Reading PA |

First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 07 Sep 2017 01:03 #8

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iceclimber wrote:

Aircraftbuilder wrote: Appreciate any input on this topic......which is the best items to do to winterize the boat? This will be my first winter storage as a boat owner.

If you fog the engine, how do you run antifreeze through the water system with out the engine running.
Personally I think engine fogging is a waste of time and money unless you are storing your engine for years.
Is it sufficient to drain the water by removing hoses and freeze plugs?
Blow out what you can.
Would you recommend back filling with anti freeze?
I know people that do this, I've never seen air freeze.
- The water in air sure can freeze........think they call it sleet or snow ❄️

Do you leave the plug in or take it out?
When I winterize, I put everything back the way it was. Makes life simple come spring.
Should I wrap up the outdrive in a tarp?
Don't see why not.
Any suggestions to prevent mold in the interior while it's covered up?
A proper dehumidifier but another option is ensure you have ventilation to the outside air. Depends on how wet your winters are, but cold is good.
Do you keep the engine cover on, off or "displaced" to allow air circulation?
Your engine does not need air circulation. It's inanimate.
- Still no reason to be cruel to itB) Was more curious it leaving slightly open would help prevent mold. I think I'll leave some space so it can breath..... inanimate or not!

Full fuel tank treated or empty?
Empty is cheaper. The theory of storing tanks full I believe to be profit motivated. The marine fuel I use is ethanol free and treated, so I can store it any way I like.
- Wish I could find some around here.

How much angle do you keep on the boat...... balancing the outdrive position with having some angle to drain any water that somehow gets in?
Makes sense but better to keep the water out I imagine.
- Me too

Is it worth it to put the trailer on jack stands to get the weight off the tires?
Not in my opinion
Anything else I missed?
You will find out :) Lots of good help and suggestions here.

- Thanks for your input. I really liked your reply........ my kind of humor!



A couple of givens are removing the battery and having the outdrive in the down position. Also have tire covers and will loosen the tie downs. Will be changing engine and drive oil.

My location is PA, so we get some pretty hard cold spells. Figure I have about a month of boating left because October starts hunting season.

Thanks for any advice and secret tips for "successful" over wintering.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

| 2052 LS | 3.0L MerCruiser | Alpha I Gen II | Spifire 14" x 19"p | 1996 |
| Reading PA |

First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 08 Sep 2017 04:57 #9

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Only addition on freezing, water has to be contained to freeze, expand and cause an issue.Some water here and there will not cause a problem. It gets awfully cold in northern Idaho, and I stopped all the fogging, anti freeze and obsessing about it years ago. I have never ever, ever had a single problem skipping all that stuff and simply blowing out the water system and draining/blowing out the heat exchangers. The only reason I even bother with blowing stuff out ? I put it all back together so it can't drain.

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First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 08 Sep 2017 17:53 #10

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Be glad you don't have that single drain hose.

Post #3
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...-to-winterize#777847

I want to add ... if you have power steering you need to drain the cooler, remove the water hose off the t-stat or other point after the cooler, let drain into bilge.

What i did was run the boat on a hose, allow to get warm. pull the hose off the tank or before the filter, and allow the engine to die ( run out of fuel ) reattach the hose. Carb is now dry.

Make sure your poking the drain holes with stiff wire.

If you want you can pour a cup of anti-freeze down the long hose coming in from the transom hold the hose up let the anti-freeze dribble out the drive.

The U shaped hose a half cup, Short hose etc.
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Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

'86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 09 Sep 2017 13:18 #11

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Some of the basic points:
1) warm up engine and change oil and filter
2) change drive oil and inspect oil for water
3) warm up engine check oil filter for leaks & verify proper level same for out drive
4) fog engine through carb; it may stall if not just shut it off.
5) let it cool off before draining; the water in the engine and manifolds will get very hot (160*) and you can burn yourself if you don't let it cool.
6) now this is the hard part; you must locate every drain and hose that holds water; and drain every one and poke any holes with a thin screwdriver to make sure it is not clogged with rust flakes .
7) then take the drain plugs put a bit of Merc perfect seal on the threads (helps the threads to not corrode) and replace.
8) add antifreeze; this is optional but Merc does say to do it in their manuals.
I like back filling the hoses not sucking it up; why well it's much easier to fig it my way and no risk of burning the impeller if it will not suck in the AF.
9) I disco the big hose at the Thermo housing and back fill with -100 marine AF till it comes out thermo neck. Engine is now filled no need to remove thermo neck. Re connect hose
10) Disco manifold feed hoses at thermo housing and fill each hose till the manifolds are full; AF will run out the exhaust housing on the transom. Reconnect hoses.
11) disco the raw water feed hose from the transom to the thermo housing. Make sure drive is down, then fill that hose till AF runs out the drive water intakes. Reconnect hose.
I also will remove the drive to do the drive bellows inspection (for water) and greasing the gimble bearing U joints and drive shaft splines...

I've done this was our old boat always run in salt water and stored in cold North East winters and never had a problem with freezing. I use the -100 marine AF because it stays liquid to much lower temps than the -50 or 60.
It does help with corrosion because when I did my top end engine overhaul I was able to re use the intake manifold (not rotted) and the block was not rotted thru either....
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First Winter Prep - Guidance, Suggestions and Secret Tips Appreciated 11 Sep 2017 14:25 #12

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Aircraftbuilder wrote: Appreciate any input on this topic......which is the best items to do to winterize the boat? This will be my first winter storage as a boat owner.

If you fog the engine, how do you run antifreeze through the water system with out the engine running.
Be very careful if you do this. Many owners who attempt to do their own winterizing have made costly mistakes when doing this.
Please take a few minutes and read this.
www.amazon.com/review/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt
I wrote this in response to some questions our members had several years ago.


Is it sufficient to drain the water by removing hoses and freeze plugs?
Yes, in most cases this works. Keep in mind that just plain ole air will not freeze expand and damage our expensive cast iron components!

BTW, these are NOT freeze plugs...... they are "casting core plugs" or "welch plugs"!


Would you recommend back filling with anti freeze?
Only if it is drained again afterwards!

Do you leave the plug in or take it out?
Which plug? If garboard drain plug, and if the boat is on the hard.......... yes, remove it for the winter.

Should I wrap up the outdrive in a tarp?
In my opinion, there is no need to. Store the stern drive fully DOWN and aiming straight forward!
This eliminates un-wanted stress on the bellows.


Any suggestions to prevent mold in the interior while it's covered up?
Do you keep the engine cover on, off or "displaced" to allow air circulation?
Full fuel tank treated or empty?
You will treat your fuel during your last outing so that it will become mixed.

How much angle do you keep on the boat...... balancing the outdrive position with having some angle to drain any water that somehow gets in?
Is it worth it to put the trailer on jack stands to get the weight off the tires?
For the Purists..... yes!

Anything else I missed?
Yes...... perhaps the understanding of Fogging!
Fogging is a dynamic process used for carbureted engines only. (FI systems require a different procedure)
It is the last thing done while operating the engine.
The engine is to be held at approx 1,200 rpm while the fogging solution is introduced .
For all V-engines, both planes of the intake manifold must receive equal amounts of the fogging solution. In other words..... spray it equally into both primary throttle bores!
A helper will hold the throttle position as you fog.
The fogging will continue while the Ignition is cut and until the crankshaft comes to rest!


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