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TOPIC: It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 09 Dec 2013 00:59 #51

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Grinding fiberglas sucks. That is all.

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 09 Dec 2013 01:20 #52

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SKUA 28 Contessa wrote: Grinding fiberglas sucks. That is all.

Copy that!

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 11 Dec 2013 18:17 #53

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So the method for repair is going to be, cut back the delam to the wood. Then laminate a layer of 1708 to the bottom edge. Fill the voids with epoxy, then laminate a layer of 1708 over, the top, then another layer at the bottom. I will do the same on the port side as I have discovered a void in that strake. After the 1708, I will laminate 2400, in 2 layers over the repair, all the way from the new keelson, to the stringers. I also need to add a frame, to support the galley and head flooring, as this is a fair span and was a bit springy. This will make the hull just about the same thickness from bow to engine bulkhead, where it gets a lot thicker on it's own. I will also be tabbing in, the new head bulkheads and framing, as originally the were only HUNG from the deck cap, literally. 3 lag screws held the door frame to the keelson, everything else hung from screwed battens to the weather deck. Also the head is now 1.5 inches wider, simply by building to the work, instead of using screws to bend the bulkheads to the existing frame hull where gaps of up to one inch were, in evidence.

Plainly the weatherdeck and head were assembled upside down then turned, and dropped into the hull. The angle and location of assembly screws indicates this. They faced up and in from locations inaccessible, even to see, and would not permit even an angle driver to run them in.

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
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Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 20 Dec 2013 04:49 #54

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New front section of the keelson, replaced half with 3/4 ply and tabbed in


Repair to the broken loose strake core. Laminated over with 1708 biax x4in tape. I will drill holes and fill the voids with epoxy. Also you can see the void in the port strake core, that will be filled and taped as well. Then two layes of 2400 triax, over the hull and repairs.

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On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 13 Jan 2014 05:06 #55

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The weather has been cold and crappy, (snow and 5 deg F temps). But I have been busy.

First up, cracked strake, after drilling and filling, I epoxied 4 layers of 1708 directly over the repair, then 2 layers 2400 triax, over the hull and repair.


Then I cut open the factory installed void in the port strake, filled with 1708 and epoxy, and then 4 layers 1708 and 2 layers of 2400 traix. I also layed some 1708 and tabbing into the foremost part of the keel, after grinding away the sludge from the failed shower sump, PO didn't fix.


Cut and roughed in framing for the head and galley floors.


Cut out and roughed in the head floor.


Cut out and roughed in the galley floor.


Cut out and roughed in the first head bulkhead replacement.

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 13 Jan 2014 22:17 #56

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Well after a discussion last night, after she popped in to see the progress, and help with head layout, the Admiral and I decided that we should just go full tilt and do everything all at once. The likely hood of making this season seems remote, and would only result, in overlapping work, already done, to get to other planned components , later.. So now I will remove the engine and other assorted machinery. This will make it far easier to do the stringers, and would be required for the transom anyway.

We are plainly disappointed, that there will be no boating again this year, but just getting it done, rather than herky jerky, will be better. We'll just hang out with our friends a few times this summer on their 36 Wellcraft Martinique. (which is not all that much bigger inside than our 28 Contessa)

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 17 Mar 2014 15:18 #57

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Some progress. The weather has put a damper on the boat. It's been too cold to do any lamination or epoxy work, so I have been busying myself with setting up the panels for when it warms up.. I have roughed out the bulkheads for the head, and am moving onto the cabinetry. Spring is around the corner, so hopefully it warms up and with the longer days, I will get more done.

The head currently

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Making real progress now
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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 22 Apr 2014 15:06 #58

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Finally warm enough to fiberglass. Laying on a layer of 1700 to the bottom of the decking before glassing it in. Afterward flotation foam for all of the voids without wires hoses or equipment.


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On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 07 May 2014 15:20 #59

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More progress. Framing cleated up and glassed.



Decking glued and screwed down. next step glass over the top.

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Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 13 May 2014 03:21 #60

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Tonights update..... mmmm ribs!


These are for the port side. 3 more in the works for starboard. These will go under the toerail, to support it , the rubrail, the hull sides and the cabin walls. Spaced evey 29 inches and tabbed in they will help remove the flexy flyer tendencies of the hull and toerail. Also backing up the toerails with 3/4 ply, as well as the rubrail with 3/4 ply. All epoxied and tabbed in, eventually.

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Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 25 May 2014 22:35 #61

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This weekends project..,.... lift the deck. The deck had a noticeble dip due to a latent mold defect. The hull was not high enough on the starboard side. and water would pool as well as, look as though, there was a list. So the factory just pulled the deck down and screwed it into place. It was quite noticable and I have seen the same problem on other Contessas to greater or lesser degrees. So I removed the rubrail (coming off anyway, for paint when I get there) removed the combination of rivets, screws and bolts that held it together, then cut through the silicone used for a sealer. Then I jacked up the deck to staighten it as much as possible. Cant get it 100% as the hull and deck seams no longer overlap now. I will now let it sit a while in the sun and tap up the boards a tad, every now and then, so as not to crack the deck. I'll let it sit for a day or so, then I will glue/screw 3/4 ply backer strips behind the seam to hold it. Ill need to cover the seam with a much wider rubrail, as I can't fair out the lower lip, due to angle and curve issues. It would require cutting out a section and remoulding. I can do that, but don't want to spend that much time effort and money, on something that can be camoflagued, relatively easily. Besides, the rub rail, never was thick enough, all the engine vent where smashed as they stuck out past the rubrail.




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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 25 May 2014 23:22 #62

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I see you have a stainless brace under the bow pulpit, did you install that or PO? did ya have to remove those bolts also when you lifted the top section?
So you'll put on a wider rub rail to cover over the extra lift you need to get rid of the uneven deck?
Sounds like a reasonable plan. Your floor repair looks great, keep up the good work.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 26 May 2014 01:33 #63

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I Installed it before I redid the pulpit. The pulpit was water logged and a bit floppy. . The pulpit is now cored with 2x2's laid into an epoxy/glass,plywood bed, finished with a polyester resin outer skin 1/2' thick . The poly was poured in just as the epoxy went off, no delam issues, as the 2 more or less melt together. It's not a primary of even a secondary bond, more like hot glue. The poly was just for cost saving, it simply a finish coat.The leverage of the line was more than the deck could hold, plus the whole thing was held on with 4 1/4" bolts. But even still you could see the deck flexing in chop when anchored. Now the deck is backed by 1/4 " 6061 T6 plate, held to the deck by 4, 1/2" 316 SS carriage bolts, followed by a Sampson post centered, held with 4, 5/16" 304 SS bolts. Also there is a 3/4 plate of HDPE between the deck and pulpit. I'll need to make a new brace, as the bolt hols no longer line up on the hull gudgeon.

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 26 May 2014 03:00 #64

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I'll need to do some cosmetic glass work to mine and have been thinking of beefing it up as you have done or something similar.
Thanks for the info.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 27 May 2014 01:38 #65

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Yeah there are a number of areas that are bairly "good enough", and some that are "how did that last this long". Might as well improve while we're there, shouldn't have to do it again in our lifetime.! :woohoo:

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Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 09 Jun 2014 16:04 #66

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Between digging out 80 yds of dirt, laying rock, sand and pavers, I managed to lift the engine out. I can now move onto cutting out the transom core, and rotted stringer. The head framing and bulkheads are taped and glassed in as are the floors. Moving onto plumbing soon. Need to find some 2.5 and 1.5 radius 1/4 round or some other type of trim for the corners. I'm looking to eliminate the hard edges. Can't find any info on the crap hollow plastic 1/4 rounds with recesses that Baylioner originaly used to connect the edges. It was stapled to the ply and so didn't survive removal.

Pic for today


I'll get some of the head soon.

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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 10 Jun 2014 01:06 #67

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I would not trust those cement blocks to hold the boat up.

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1990 2556
7.4 mercruiser Bravo 2 drive
Marysville Wa

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 10 Jun 2014 01:13 #68

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me neither. Especially when they get wet they tend to crumble under load....

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Jürgen
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 19 Jun 2014 03:31 #69

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Ok I have been busy with with mundane sanding and bonding. I'm working on the flooring in the head. Pictures tomorrow, (if I remember to bring phone with me, doh). Tonight finally got started on the transom and stringers. Yeah rottted just like I thought, and quite wet. Not sure if saving the stringer sides is worth the trouble. I completely cut offf the port side a few months ago, but got sidetracked on other parts, saved the sides on the starboard tonight, but what a pain in the a$$. Tonights pic, a visual proof that if you think you can drill holes, and "inject" epoxy into rotted wood, you are delusional. PO tried, I even tried, after attempting to dry the engine stringers an entire winter. The epoxy dongle only soaked as far as the hole was drilled. There are some areas that were drilled through voids and merely pooled, making removal very difficult.

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
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Making real progress now
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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 19 Jun 2014 04:54 #70

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SKUA 28 Contessa wrote: Ok I have been busy with with mundane sanding and bonding. I'm working on the flooring in the head. Pictures tomorrow, (if I remember to bring phone with me, doh). Tonight finally got started on the transom and stringers. Yeah rottted just like I thought, and quite wet. Not sure if saving the stringer sides is worth the trouble. I completely cut offf the port side a few months ago, but got sidetracked on other parts, saved the sides on the starboard tonight, but what a pain in the a$$. Tonights pic, a visual proof that if you think you can drill holes, and "inject" epoxy into rotted wood, you are delusional. PO tried, I even tried, after attempting to dry the engine stringers an entire winter. The epoxy dongle only soaked as far as the hole was drilled. There are some areas that were drilled through voids and merely pooled, making removal very difficult.

I agree do it right or don't do it at all ;)

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 20 Jun 2014 14:00 #71

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As Samuel L. Jackson Says........ "What's in YOUR transom?"


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Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 20 Jun 2014 14:04 #72

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Pics from the head refit. Fairing out the floor. I has a 5-7 degree slope towards the stern for drainage. It will be covered in a a layer of 2400 biax and epoxy, then a flooring material called Londeck. An on demand bilge pump will be located under the cabin deck for pump shower drainage overboard. Door frame is only roughed out for access. Need to find a door.



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Last Edit: by SKUA 28 Contessa.

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 20 Jun 2014 14:09 #73

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Oh yummy, I remember that stage :lol:
Looks like someone knew the transom was weak, they added some backing material around the u bolts and such.
Keep on keepin on ;)

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 20 Jun 2014 14:13 #74

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Yeah some of it was me. I knew the boat had issues when I bought it. PO had added some plates, to brace the transom, I added a 2x4 ft plate a few years back, to buy a couple years, to get me through. It must have been good enough because 2 years ago we ran aground at 20 kts or so and hit hard enough to rip the tilt lock pin right out of the pin bosses! :blink: . Held up fine.

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
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It's been a year since the gas tank started to leak 20 Jun 2014 14:18 #75

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My plan for the transom is to expand it cover as a solid piece a couple of odd triangular sub pieces on each side. Also I will be using 3/8 sheet interleaved with 1700 triax and epoxy between each layer, to achieve a 1.5 to 1.75 thick transom. I expect it will be more than strong enough. Oddly my transom starts close to 2 inch thick at the keel and thins out to 1 inch just below the rub rail. I'm planning on a common thickness.

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