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TOPIC: Replacing bilge pump

Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 12:34 #1

  • Zebra Muscle
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Splashed yesterday w/the annual "Spring Surprise" - this year it's a dead bilge pump. The Marina said they could replace it but would have to pull the engine. At $90/hour marine labor, I don't think so. I was able to remove the old pump w/a shorty screwdriver and some contortionism - plan to call Overton's for a replacement, as it's an old Johnson pump.

I'm curious to know if any of you have replaced your bilge pump, espcially those of you who have or have had lilttle bowriders like mine that only need one bilge w/o the auto float deal?

Thanks!

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Z.
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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 12:48 #2

  • kellynm
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Zebra Muscle;686991 wrote: Splashed yesterday w/the annual "Spring Surprise" - this year it's a dead bilge pump. The Marina said they could replace it but would have to pull the engine. At $90/hour marine labor, I don't think so. I was able to remove the old pump w/a shorty screwdriver and some contortionism - plan to call Overton's for a replacement, as it's an old Johnson pump.

I'm curious to know if any of you have replaced your bilge pump, espcially those of you who have or have had lilttle bowriders like mine that only need one bilge w/o the auto float deal?

Thanks!


I would just get a new pump and install it. The fancy auto float ones are nice, but manually operated works fine too... just be sure to check your bilge every so often. I'd go with the auto if it was me... maybe buy a 2nd manually operated one for a backup?

KC

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 12:53 #3

  • JeffBowser
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I just spent a few hours this weekend adding a float sensor to my cheap factory bilge pump. Apparently the factory does not find an auto-bilge to be necessary. I do, however. If you do not have a sensor of some sort, it falls upon you to cycle the pump yourself to check for water. I don't like that idea at all.

Good news is (and I well know tight bilge access...) you can buy bilge pumps that have floats built right in, and some designs that simply cycle every couple minutes to detect water. I would consider both of these a better solution than just replacing what you had one for one... On my 180, while bilge access isn't wide open, neither is there an engine in the way, so not only did I add a float switch to my factory pump, I'm also adding a second, higher volume bilge pump. I like redundancy, but also I do venture out into the Atlantic and Gulf waters, and it just adds a safety margin for me.

Zebra Muscle;686991 wrote: Splashed yesterday w/the annual "Spring Surprise" - this year it's a dead bilge pump. The Marina said they could replace it but would have to pull the engine. At $90/hour marine labor, I don't think so. I was able to remove the old pump w/a shorty screwdriver and some contortionism - plan to call Overton's for a replacement, as it's an old Johnson pump.

I'm curious to know if any of you have replaced your bilge pump, espcially those of you who have or have had lilttle bowriders like mine that only need one bilge w/o the auto float deal?

Thanks!

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 13:12 #4

  • pat8839
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I too have a bowrider (2006 195) and want to replace the standard bilge pump with a float switch of some sort. I have heard to stay away from the pumps with built in switch, but if I add separate switch I have no idea where to put it...

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 13:53 #5

  • 2850Bounty
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If you plan to moore this boat, add a new bilge pump of a larger capacity than thought needed. You cannot have a bilge pump that is too large.

FYI: we have more trouble with the integral float switches than with the pumps that use a separate float switch.


Say NO to these, and power your external float switch so that power to it cannot be turned off.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/687018=27853-Manual OFF Auto bilge pump switch.jpg

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 14:07 #6

  • docmirror
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A few boats ago, I ran into the dead bilge pump problem. It was so tight under the engine that I couldn't get the old one out, and I just left it there, and cut the wires off it. I installed a new pump and the ext float switch adjacent to the old pump but slightly more accessible. I would not consider leaving off the auto switch even though it takes two more hot wires to install. make sure you put the hot lead from the float switch directly to the + of the battery so that it is live at all times, and will cycle the bilge pump even with the key in the off pos.

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 14:14 #7

  • dmcb
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To easily install a new pump under the engine, get a piece of aluminum a bit wider than the pump but long enough to slide under the engine.
Install the pump on the aluminum and slide it under the engine.
Now its easy to get to it to clean or replace if necessary.
If you want a float switch, install it on the aluminum also.
Of course you need enough hose and wire to allow removal.
You might want to seal the old screw holes also.
Doug
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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 14:50 #8

  • msd58
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dmcb;687028 wrote: To easily install a new pump under the engine, get a piece of aluminum a bit wider than the pump but long enough to slide under the engine.
Install the pump on the aluminum and slide it under the engine.
Now its easy to get to it to clean or replace if necessary.
If you want a float switch, install it on the aluminum also.
Of course you need enough hose and wire to allow removal.
You might want to seal the old screw holes also.
Doug


Great idea!

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 15:18 #9

  • Lazy D 88
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msd58;687051 wrote: Great idea!


Just a thought... I thought mine was dead a few seasons back...but what happened, from sitting and drying out all winter it was just stuck... took it out, took apart the impellar part and lubed it up... still running strong...

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 15:28 #10

  • CaptTom
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dmcb;687028 wrote: To easily install a new pump under the engine, get a piece of aluminum a bit wider than the pump but long enough to slide under the engine.
Install the pump on the aluminum and slide it under the engine.
Doug


I used a piece of plastic the same way. Mine was cut from the top of one of those large rectangular plastic totes you can buy in any department store. It was rigid enough to hold up well, but flexible enough to lay down into the bottom of the bilge.

One thing, try to avoid drilling into the bottom of the hull if at all possible. Attach it to a bulkhead or stringer with a 90 degree bend or a piece of (stainless) angle iron or something. And be sure to use sealant in the holes before inserting the screws.

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 16:45 #11

  • RinnyBeth
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when we got our boat, the P.O didnt care for it.. only one out of 4 bilges worked. and that sucker was working over time... we replaced all ours on our 3888.. didnt have to pull the boat, was easy fix for the Capt:arr to do. Finding the right ones here in town was the feat.

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 18:34 #12

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dmcb;687028 wrote: To easily install a new pump under the engine, get a piece of aluminum a bit wider than the pump but long enough to slide under the engine.
Install the pump on the aluminum and slide it under the engine.
Now its easy to get to it to clean or replace if necessary.
If you want a float switch, install it on the aluminum also.
Of course you need enough hose and wire to allow removal.
You might want to seal the old screw holes also.
Doug


Doug, you're not only good-lookin', but you're also one smart hombre! :)
GREAT idea!

thanks for sharing it :)
Sarah

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Replacing bilge pump 21 May 2012 19:26 #13

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CaptTom;687069 wrote: I used a piece of plastic the same way. Mine was cut from the top of one of those large rectangular plastic totes you can buy in any department store. It was rigid enough to hold up well, but flexible enough to lay down into the bottom of the bilge.

One thing, try to avoid drilling into the bottom of the hull if at all possible. Attach it to a bulkhead or stringer with a 90 degree bend or a piece of (stainless) angle iron or something. And be sure to use sealant in the holes before inserting the screws.


You really don't need to anchor it. It has enough weight to stay put and if it wants to move it will be toward the stern anyway.
Thanks Sarah. I have scheduled you for an eye exam 5/22/12 at 2 PM. :D
Doug

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Replacing bilge pump 02 Jun 2012 12:22 #14

  • Zebra Muscle
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Ended up simply pulling the old pump and installing a new one in about half an hour. Easier to install new than remove old, but no problems at all (and I am NOT mechanically inclined). Cost me about $35 w/parts and shipping - local Marina told me they would need to pull the motor to do the job. Glad I didn't give them the opportunity. :greedy_dollars:

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Z.
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Replacing bilge pump 02 Jun 2012 12:47 #15

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Zebra Muscle;691226 wrote: Ended up simply pulling the old pump and installing a new one in about half an hour. Easier to install new than remove old, but no problems at all (and I am NOT mechanically inclined). Cost me about $35 w/parts and shipping - local Marina told me they would need to pull the motor to do the job. Glad I didn't give them the opportunity. :greedy_dollars:


Well, isn't that typical :thumb
And a little greedy...........

I am adding one myself - using Doug's idea on a piece of lexan plexi-glass. Going to leave the orig in place and wire this one to a different battery along with it's own outlet hose.
About $90 for the whole deal.

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Replacing bilge pump 02 Jun 2012 17:14 #16

  • kjs
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when it's time to replace mine I won't install it in the original location. In their wisdom Bayliner installed a 1" thick piece of wood to mount it to the floor which means the best the pump can do is to get water down to ~2" which is almost the level of the floor and some 100++lbs of water.
The mount-on-plate idea is the way to go. Pump and float switch on the plate and to make 200% sure it doesn't move a small drop of 5200 on two sides of the plate (assuming it's clean there) where it touches the hull.

Against better knowledge I had one of these auto cycling pumps on my last boat. As I trailer it all the time I had to connect it after the master switch to not run down the battery when parked. Major no-no...... That's also the reason I don't want one of these electronic sensors (as good as they are!) as they have a constant current draw.

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Replacing bilge pump 02 Jun 2012 18:08 #17

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kjs;691325 wrote: The mount-on-plate idea is the way to go. Pump and float switch on the plate ..............

FWIW....., if this is for a main bilge pump (a large bilge pump) that is to be operated via a separate float switch, you DO NOT want both of these at the same elevation.

An "Un-Interruptible Powered" float switch should be mounted at a slightly higher elevation, so that the pump's lowest draw-down ability ensures that the float can drop and disrupt the circuit.



.

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Replacing bilge pump 02 Jun 2012 19:04 #18

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fully agreed, that's what standoffs are good for. The switch I have actually has a pretty good "elevation" (high frame) as it has a way to click-mount it to a pump.
I already have the new pump and switch but as the old one is still working fine I'll make it a winter project. Will test the leveling in a pot of water and raise the switch until it turns off around 1/4" above the min water level of the pump.

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Jürgen
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Replacing bilge pump 02 Jun 2012 22:04 #19

  • captharv
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Johnson pumps use a "cartridge". If the pump goes bad, you can buy another cartridge, remove the old one, and put in the new one. Thats what I did when the original one went bad.
Speaking of which, the pump cam loose, and layed down on its side. The float switch locked on teh pump. Pumps mostly are cooled by the water they pump, so it literally melted the plastic in the area of wher the shaft exits the motor. Then, it locked up and blew the fuse.
Anchor it down.
Hreres what I do. I cut a piece of 1 1/2" "L" aluminum channel. I put a screw from the pump body (look before you drill) thru the aluminum. I put a nut on the outside of the pump body and another on the outside of the aluminum. This allows changing it later if necessary.
Then, liberally coat the part of the hull where it will go, and the aluminum channel with 5200 and squish it in place. After it sets up, you will need a hammer to get it off.

I did this 9 years ago with the pump under the engine, and it has not come loose.

Read this re: pumps--
http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35339

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Replacing bilge pump 17 Oct 2012 12:04 #20

  • DCfromSB
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Greetings,
I am a new owner of a 1983 Bayliner Capri Bowrider with a 225 Volvo Penta V-8. This is my first powerboat, and I made the mistake of not testing the bilge pump before purchase. Nothing happens when I turn on the switch on the dash.
Looking in the engine compartment, I see the water hose from the side discharge snaking under the engine aft, but can't see the bilge pump at all. It seems incredible that they would have installed this pump in such an apparently inaccessible location.
How can I access the bilge from in front of the engine to do the excellent slide-in method you've described here?
Also, any advice on GPH and brand of pump?
Cheers,
DC from SB

Update: I was able to see the old, apparently inoperable bilge pump with a flashlight and a mirror on a pole. It is attached to the bilge floor, directly centered under the V-8. The hose had been disconnected and was loose in there.
I purchased an Attwood Corporation Bilge Pump Sahara, S1100, because it looked like the shape would allow it to be slid down into the bilge from the side of the motor without being fastened to the hull.
Any opinions on this?
TIA
DC

dmcb;687028 wrote: To easily install a new pump under the engine, get a piece of aluminum a bit wider than the pump but long enough to slide under the engine.
Install the pump on the aluminum and slide it under the engine.
Now its easy to get to it to clean or replace if necessary.
If you want a float switch, install it on the aluminum also.
Of course you need enough hose and wire to allow removal.
You might want to seal the old screw holes also.
Doug

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David Cooper
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Replacing bilge pump 24 Sep 2017 12:52 #21

  • Quilt4us
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i like your idea, of a new one - but then you have to make a new outlet as well. maybe make a Y in the hose? I think I like the idea of leaving old one and mounting new one on aluminum or plexiglass.

Thanks all

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Bryan Fliegel
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Replacing bilge pump 24 Sep 2017 16:05 #22

  • Pcpete
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Quilt, doing a Y will allow water to run back through the other pump unless it's mounted very near and above the current through hull.

D.C., the easiest way to mount your new bilge pump is on a piece of aluminum attached to a stringer. You could use the disconnected hose if it is decent shape, if not, just replace it using most of the same mounts. Same with the power source.

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Replacing bilge pump 25 Sep 2017 16:28 #23

  • sketch96
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I mounted 2 of these pumps at the back on aluminum and removed the original pads bayliner glassed to the hull. Whale low profile supersub 1100gph. Attached to the stringers. No sealant to the hull under the pump. The way the aluminum is formed it presses tight against the bottom of the hull when the mounting screws are tightened down. Also used non ribbed 1" hose for plumbing.

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Doug
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