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TOPIC: Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950

Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 11 Jun 2007 22:45 #1

  • maa melee
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...continued from http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4140&highlight=aft+seat

The seat before with stripped screw holes in the plywood which attaches the piano hinge.

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I Took the seat and hinge off the boat and prepped by removing the 2 red strips of vinyl that make the transition between the 2 foam heights on the seat. Also, I cleaned up the hinge on a buffing wheel and opened up the holes for the seat to 1/4" for 12 (eight shown) stainless steel bolts...more on that later.

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I removed the 2 strips of vinyl as well as the 2 nylon straps that keep the seat from folding up too far, pulling out the staples and pulling the vinyl back over the foam.

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While I was already into this project, I decided to beef up the 90 degree joint into the 'chine' of the seat. I predrilled and countersunk for 24, 2" black-oxide course screws.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 11 Jun 2007 22:45 #2

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continued....

Dipped them in 3M-5200 and drove them home, cinching the front part of the seat to the horizontal part tight.

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I then cut away the vinyl from the other side, exposing the wood.

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I marked the surface for routing in the next step and cut away all the protruding screw points with a die grinder. The line closest to the 'chine' is the finished scarph line while the one further away is the router line.

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I screwed in 2 short straps to guide the router and set the bitt to the depth of a single ply of the plywood, a measurement I found by cutting the edge of the plywood, approx. 1/8 inch.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 11 Jun 2007 22:46 #3

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continued...

Wearing a mask and goggles (the wood might be treated), I routed out the first ply.

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I began to clean up the router cuts with a block plane, chisel, and screen rasp. I was surprised to find 2 BIG voids in the plywood, which most likely led to rot.

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I started feathering the edge of the router cuts to increase the strength of the fiberglass and epoxy layup to come later on and to allow for a smooth level finished surface.

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More to come later!!....

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 13 Jun 2007 00:41 #4

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I took the time this afternoon to feather the edges with a grinder and block plane. I also opened up both voids as far as I could, the right one opened up all the way to the other side. I 'primed' the whole area with low viscosity marine epoxy and filled in both voids with epoxy thickened with wood flour (fir dust from my belt sander).

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I came back an hour later and lightly sanded with some ScotchBrite and mixed up another 'peanut butter' mix of thickened epoxy to level out the low spots.

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After another sanding and wipe with acetone, I 'hot coated' 3 layers of heavy fiberglass cloth, one at a time and soaked the weave. Once it sets hard enough, I'll sand it, dam up the edges, and float on a final leveling coat of thickened epoxy.

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It looks a little crude at the moment, but rest assure, it won't stay that way.
Day 2 work complete...still shooting for an installation this weekend so I can go boating!

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 14 Jun 2007 00:08 #5

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For the last layer of fiberglass and epoxy, I decided to set up 2 aluminum dams, 3/32" thick on either side of the repaired area. I mixed up 8oz of epoxy resin and thickened with wood flour. After laying down some FG cloth, I poured the mix in and let it flow out, screeding with the thin piece of black steel in the photo.

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The still wet epoxy level out beautifully.

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After it set, i pulled the dam apart and started to sand. A few pits emerged and a lump or two but nothing I'm going to worry about.

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And after some sanding and curing, I'll hit it with some primer and paint, just for waterproofing and UV protection. (why do half a job?) I set up a straight edge on the seat and routed the edges perfectly straight, square, and parallel.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 14 Jun 2007 00:15 #6

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cont...

Now for the upgrades. I bought a 1/8" thick sheet of 6061T6 aluminum and cut it to match the contour of the seat (nothing too pretty, it'll be under the foam and vinyl). I turned it over and gave it a quick once over with my grinder to roughen up the surface for gluing.

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On the other side of the seat's plywood, I ground the area clean and roughened up a little for gluing.

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I spread some PL Premium (my favorite glue) with a trowel onto the plywood seat.

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And set the aluminum plate onto the glue and clamped it tight with cawls.

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Once again...more to follow tomorrow!

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 15 Jun 2007 00:39 #7

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...cont...

I pulled the clamps and cawls off and gave the aluminum plate a good grinding around the edges to make it flush with the seat and to give the edges a full radius. I drove 2 1/4-20 SS bolts through to cinch up the weak corners.

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The opposite (under) side a coat of clear satin varnish (fast drying from a spray can) and once dry, glued on some red vinyl, no staples yet.

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I temporarily glued the foam back onto the seat top. I will wait to permanently glue to drill the holes into the seat for the hinge and to see if I can find a more adequate piece of foam to replace the dingy foam in the photo.

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More to come tomorrow! Final installation to be done on the boat.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 18 Jun 2007 21:10 #8

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Because I was unable to get to my boat this weekend, I decided to ease installation when I do finally install this seat back aboard.

I bought a kit of stainless steel snaps from McMaster-Carr. I drove 7 buttons (the male end with screw) into the plywood backing from the underside of the seat ever 3" on center.

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...and riveted the snaps to the vinyl. I ran them through 3 layers of vinyl to strengthen the area and peened over the rivet by hand.

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I mentioned all this was to ease installation. To explain, now I can simply pop the snaps open to thru-bolt the seat hinge onto the boat without having to deal with stapling, screwing, and gluing in a confined area on the boat. Also, if the bolts ever come loose for whatever reason or if I need to remove the seat, I can simply open the vinyl flap and access the bolts.

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Hopefully, I can get to my boat this weekend and finish up this lingering job.

For those who are curious, here is the tally so far on cost for repair:

1 yard of red vinyl - $4.95
1 kit of SS Snaps - $11.99
1 sheet of 6061T6 aluminum, 28x8" - $2.59 (scrap yard)
1 dozen 1/4-20 x 1.25" SS bolts - $10.35 (I'll only need 10)
1 tube PL Premium - $3.29 (1/4 tube used)
1 gallon Epoxy resin + hardner - (remnants from previous project)
SS Staples - (remnants from previous project)
2" black oxide 'drywall' screws - (remnants from previous project)
3M5200 fast cure - (remnants from previous project)
Wood flour - FREE
Labor - FREE

Grand total - $33.17 for a job that was fun and satisfying to do and will sure last many many seasons of abuse.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 18 Jun 2007 21:28 #9

  • briankstan
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great job and documentation. that should be a very durable fix and reinforcement. the aluminum is strong yet light.

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1987 Bayliner 2150 bowrider (One of a Kind)
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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 19 Jun 2007 00:51 #10

  • SeaDog
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Really great work! That is a little more tweaking than I may tackle but it gives me some ideas for reinforcing mine. thanks.:arr

Joe

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1985 Capri BR 1950, "SeaDog"
AQ125a/275
Even a bad day on the water is better than being at work!

Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 24 Jun 2007 03:56 #11

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Installation on the boat involved careful planning and accurate measurements for the hinge and mounting holes. Here the holes are marked through the hinge with the seat on the boat and removed for drilling.

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Then with a homemade die, I cut through the vinyl to the substrate to drill through, after transferring the hole centers with a center punch.

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I drove 8 1/4"-20 SS bolts through and tightened down a nut on the other side. These bolts had their heads faced-off to make the 'low profile' so the hinge can close completely. As you can see now, there's a method to my madness. The vinyl flat is opened to allow access to the nuts on the opposite side, under the foam. Once tight, I'll simply snap the vinyl in place. No staples, no messy glue, no awkward positions to wrestle in fasteners on the boat.

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The ends were ground flush to the nut, peened over to prevent loosening, and then swabbed with PL Premium for added insurance.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 24 Jun 2007 04:00 #12

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continued...

I filled the holes in the hull with thickened epoxy, redrilled and c'sunk them and filled with 3M4200, driving the original SS screws into the hull, being sure that they don't line up with the top bolts. I reattached the limiting straps in their new position, about 1/3 of the way in from the port and starboard sides so they can better control the twisting action of the seat as it's opened and closed, which is dreadfully fatal to these mechanisms.

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The finished product. Visually, not much different than before but internally, much stronger and secure.

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 14 Mar 2008 01:40 #13

  • mickjetblue
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Mine is flat all the way across the top, and the wet rot was through most of it.
It was intact just enough to stay together to serve as a template for the new
piece.

I had hesitations about reusing the sponge foam, as I think that is what
absorbed and held moisture causing the wood to water-log and rot. I reused
it because the panel foam piece I bought was too thick, and the 1/2" plywood
was thicker anyway than the 3/8" piece originally used. I used epoxy and many screws
on the joint to the back of the seats. Only the top piece was rotted. Rest of
it is in good shape, thank goodness.

I just put it back on the boat this evening, and feel good about it. It took some
time, but if you like working with tools, well, you know how it is. I'll post a pic
this weekend, although it is not like your history pics. Great job, by the way!

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Aft-most seat repair/upgrade on '89 1950 15 Mar 2008 10:17 #14

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looks great !

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Greets from the Netherlands,
Marcel
"Sweet Thing"
Bayliner 2855 Ciera Sunbridge 1994
Mercruiser 5,7L
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