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TOPIC: 4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch

4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 11 Apr 2014 08:20 #1

  • higgins_jr
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Hi folks! Another compatriot thought it a good idea if I wrote this project up in case there was an interest with others.

IMHO, one of the best modifications you can do to make your engine maintenance tasks much easier is to install a center hatch in the salon between the existing engine hatches. It is easy to do and does not require laying any new carpet where the standard corner sofa has not been permanently removed.



You will need some new rubber carpet underlay and an air staple gun (with ¾” high crown staples suggested), plus basic tools including a circular saw (small battery powered is best), hand saw, contact adhesive and 2” aluminum adhesive tape. (If you have the original carpet still on your boat, chances are that the same carpet is under the sofa – you’ll need a piece for later as a small patch. Check this first.)

Installation Notes:

1. Remove engine hatches and sofa cushions, and unscrew any engine room lights affixed to the engine roof. Carefully remove the ¾” sound barrier material from the engine room center ceiling. (Just remove the screws from the center of the large “rose” washers (there is no need to remove the large white washers), then carefully pull the glued barrier from the plywood roof.)
2. Find and carefully remove all staples from the carpet that rolls down the edges of the center salon floor. Remove also 4”+ of staples from the corners of the engine hatch forward edges. Try to avoid any fraying of the carpet edges.
3. Mark and cut the carpet across the center floor about ¾” back from the corners of the forward engine hatches. The ¾” is for the extra flap to be rolled down the hatch front edge.

Attachment photo1.jpg not found



4. Mark and make a ¾” deep straight cut in the forward center floor panel from hatch corner to hatch corner underneath the carpet. Lifting the carpet flap should allow the small circular saw frame to fit under the carpet for the saw cut.
5. Roll back carpet/underlay towards the rear, putting rolled carpet into sofa base. The carpet and underlay are probably glued together onto the floor. A steel ruler helps separate the glued surfaces.

Attachment photo2.jpg not found



6. Make another ¾” deep square cut at the sofa end across the center floor panel, under the carpet as close to the sofa frame as possible. A small battery powered saw can get under the sofa base overhang.
7. Find/remove screws holding the center floor panel down/prize apart silicon and lift panel out. This will be reused later as the hatch cover.
8. Remove fiberglass batts from floor cavity, then remove the lower floor panel/engine ceiling panel (1/2” ply).
9. Unscrew the center 2X4 bracing (the top screw is under the “L” support for the engine hatches) between the ceiling joists and reposition/screw one for the front support and the other at the rear just forward of the sofa base. Half of the brace edge should be under the existing floor, with the remainder proud to support the center hatch at both ends. Screw the floor down to the floor joists etc. (predrilling pilot holes is recommended to reuse the long bracing screws. )

Carpeting the Hatch

1. Cut 1” off the hatch panel at one end, so that the hatch is 1” shorter in length. This allows for 4 layers of carpet edges – 1 layer rollover on each of the fixed ends and another layer on each end of the hatch rollover (i.e. allowing each layer approx. ¼”)
2. Clean off any underlay residue and cut a new piece of underlay allowing about ½” overlaps all the way around.
3. Firmly glue the underlay to the hatch panel, then angle cut (45deg) the underlay overlap (scissors turn inwards) all the way around. This reduces the rollover bulk on the hatch edge but still protects the carpet from the top sharp wooden edge.
4. Measure the hatch length and add the overhangs on both ends (say 2” plus the length of the hatch)
5. Cut this length of carpet from the rolled length now resting over the sofa base.
6. Clean any underlay residue from the carpet.
7. Position carpet overlapping the hatch panel. Since the carpet was already rolled down the edges before removal, the long edges should be flush with the bottom edge. Put several holding staples at say 6” centers on one long edge and stretch the carpet to the opposite side, and staple accordingly. Ensure there is enough overhang at both ends to roll down, then staple all the way around every ¾”, wrapping/notching the corners.

Sofa End Carpet Removal/Floor Patch Replacement

1. Cut carpet and underlay inside the sofa base using the base as the straight edge across from the s/b hatch center corner to the end of the sofa base (cockpit door end). Continue the cut (on a slight angle) from outside edge of the sofa to the apex of the port hatch corner nearest the sofa (about 2”).
2. Unscrew all screws/nuts holding down the sofa (“L” brackets and bolts/nuts holding sections together.
3. Lever the base of the end sectional upwards about ½” (small wrecking bar is ideal), and cut/remove the carpet and underlay from under the base.
4. Cut a new piece of underlay to size and put back under the raised sofa. (staple in a few places to hold down).
5. Cut a replacement piece of carpet from under the sofa (I used the corner sectional (see pic) using the sofa frame for the straight edge.



Cut enough carpet to roll down both engine hatch edges and also to go from the inside edge of the base frame out and down the hatch end edge. Staple the carpet edge inside the sofa base, then all roll down hatch edges and staple accordingly.

Final Touches


1. Put finished hatch in place and crawl in engine room and run a pencil mark on the underside of hatch along the center floor joists and across the end of the cross braces. Remove the hatch, then cut/glue/screw the ¾” foil sound barrier to the bottom of the hatch inside the pencil marks. (The cut ends of the sound shield material can be covered with 2” aluminum foil tape.)
2. Measure the forward and rear center ceiling panels previously removed (in engine room). Cut ½” ply to size and screw to cross braces putting in fiberglass batt in cavity before screwing in place. Measure/cut/attach with glue the sound shield material to these areas.
3. Refit the engine room light to the ceiling.
4. Buy a small set ladder to avoid falling in the hole!! 



I did fit a 3” X 1.5” alum angle support across the center between the joists, but it really isn’t required with the 18” span. There is much more movement in the engine hatches themselves compared with this new center hatch. This enhancement could be completed in a day with a helper, but it’s probably a 2 day task on your own. It is not difficult assuming one has some workshop skills with saws and air stapler. But at the end of the project, you will be asking yourself, “why didn’t I do this ages ago”??



Hope this assists anyone else contemplating this upgrade.

Cheers

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The following user(s) said Thank You: Alan Teed, chatham33, vinomaker, Technomadia

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John H
Brisbane QLD Aust
"Harbor-nating"

2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 11 Apr 2014 08:47 #2

  • Peter W
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Well done John. For a bloke who could who could not read or write when we met, you have done well. .... :)

Catch ya soon

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Peter W
"Sajesar" MY 3988
RQYS - Marina, Manly
Brisbane, Australia

4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 12 Apr 2014 12:16 #3

  • Carlo
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John

You did a great job and a super write up for others to follow in your footsteps. Is the thruster working yet?

Cheers

Carlo

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4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 12 Apr 2014 15:40 #4

  • vinomaker
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Excellent results! Your write up is clear and step by step. The photos really help too.

Thanks for posting this as it will be added to my must do projects.

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Cheers!
Vinomaker
Jerome Robbins
Rear Commodore, Fidalgo Yacht Club
Anacortes, WA
2001 Bayliner 4788
Twin 370 Cummins
1994 Bayliner Ciera 2855 454 V8-7.4L
1994 Bayliner Classic 2252 V6-5.2L

4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 13 Apr 2014 04:40 #5

  • higgins_jr
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Thanks guys for the comments. Yep Carlo, the bow thruster is all fixed and new battery securely fixed upfront and a second charger cranking away as well. The project list is slowly reducing, although as you know, there is always something to do!!

Cheers

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John H
Brisbane QLD Aust
"Harbor-nating"

2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 13 Apr 2014 14:06 #6

  • robster_in_edmonds
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Beautiful job, John. Thank you for the great write-up.

Rob

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Rob Meldrum
Commodore, Edmonds Yacht Club (2014-2015)
"Miss Maui" * 1997 Bayliner 4788 * Cummins 330s

4788 Center Engine/Salon Hatch 15 Sep 2016 16:45 #7

  • Watkins
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Finally created a removable center salon engine hatch. All the previous input by fellow members whom proceeded my effort at this project was in valuable. Thanks to all. But with all the blood loss, do to dealing with what seems like hundreds of staples , My slightly older brother " 68 years young" and I will lay low for a couple of days before jumping into the next project. It took about one day to remove pre existing floor and a day to re-insulate and install a cross brace that was movable. The cross brace utilized 90 degree table brackets on the ends that drop into thin receivers that were screwed to the the longitudinal stringers.These 90 degree brackets were slightly modified to prevent them from locking into position when they were slid into the rceivers. GW

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