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TOPIC: My 32XX Cave Hatch Project

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 07 Apr 2016 22:00 #26

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Thank you very much.

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Dan
Frostbite Falls, Minnesota
Claudia V. III
1988 - 3218
Gas Drives

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 28 Aug 2016 02:43 #27

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I know it's been a while but I'm going to try and do :)
the hatch thing this week, wish me Luck thanks
regards Ellie

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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 28 Aug 2016 02:53 #28

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Ellie wrote: I know it's been a while but I'm going to try and do :)
the hatch thing this week, wish me Luck thanks
regards Ellie


You won't regret it. Good luck!

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CapMartin, Montréal
"Belle de Dalhousie"
1986 3270
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 28 Aug 2016 03:42 #29

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Ellie wrote: I know it's been a while but I'm going to try and do :)
the hatch thing this week, wish me Luck thanks
regards Ellie


You don't need luck. Just make sure you're not sitting on the hatch when you're cutting it out.

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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 28 Aug 2016 10:31 #30

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[/quote]

You won't regret it. Good luck![/quote]

+1. Post back with the results

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"Martini's Law"
1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
Nova Scotia, Canada

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 29 Aug 2016 03:10 #31

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Ellie wrote: I know it's been a while but I'm going to try and do :)
the hatch thing this week, wish me Luck thanks
regards Ellie


I put off cutting the cave hatch in my boat for 23 years and finally last month I did it after reading everyone's suggestions. It will definitely put a smile on your face when its done. Here's a link to my cave hatch story.
drive.google.com/file/d/0B8R0L6wa1iPNVnR...RWs/view?usp=sharing
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1984 3270 Explorer
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 30 Aug 2016 07:07 #32

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Oh my goodness! That is a cave! I wonder why they didn't put a hatch in there. They did with the 3416 so the batteries and such can be easily accessed AND there is another by it under the captains chair that has a storage box area.. Our water tank is under the state room bed hatch and the poopy tank is under another hatch in the floor of the galley.. Someone wasn't thinking when they drew that design up..

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FANTASIA II
1988 3416 SPORTFISHER
twin YANMAR 6LY-UTE
producing 630 HP
ZF marine propulsion
Mathers control system
20" x 20 degree 4 blade matching bronze props

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 02 Oct 2016 18:06 #33

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Hey guys,

Great detail on these projects. One question -- is there any reason why the collar you guys have made needs to be one solid piece? Is there some sort of strength advantage? Are there downsides of simply cutting 4 lengths of plywood and screwing/glueing those as the collar instead?

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Terry
1999 Bayliner 3388
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 02 Oct 2016 19:04 #34

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TenMile wrote: Hey guys,

Great detail on these projects. One question -- is there any reason why the collar you guys have made needs to be one solid piece? Is there some sort of strength advantage? Are there downsides of simply cutting 4 lengths of plywood and screwing/glueing those as the collar instead?


I don't see why you couldn't. I just did mine that way as I must have seen it from another post. I think it would be better structurally.

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"Martini's Law"
1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
Nova Scotia, Canada

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 03 Oct 2016 00:34 #35

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TenMile wrote: Hey guys,

Great detail on these projects. One question -- is there any reason why the collar you guys have made needs to be one solid piece? Is there some sort of strength advantage? Are there downsides of simply cutting 4 lengths of plywood and screwing/glueing those as the collar instead?


I used hardwood strips about 3/4"x4" glued and screwed, leaving an one inch lip all around. Easy to handle and install and won't chip.

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CapMartin, Montréal
"Belle de Dalhousie"
1986 3270
Volvo BB225B

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 03 Oct 2016 05:39 #36

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TenMile wrote: Hey guys,

Great detail on these projects. One question -- is there any reason why the collar you guys have made needs to be one solid piece? Is there some sort of strength advantage? Are there downsides of simply cutting 4 lengths of plywood and screwing/glueing those as the collar instead?


I used a single piece of 3/4" plywood when I did mine, but I'm certain that 4 separate pieces would work just fine.



Ron

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Midnight Star
1996 3587
Twin diesels, Hino 250's
Ladysmith, BC
History: 1996 - 2655, 2001 - 2855, 1984 - 3270

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 27 Jul 2017 19:54 #37

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Hi Its Ellie with a 3288 Bayliner I was wondering does anyone moor in Point Roberts if yes could you please contact me if you have a bayliner
I need help please, need to do some wood work and connect pump to the water tank :O(

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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 27 Jul 2017 20:28 #38

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I think you should start a new specific topic.
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CapMartin, Montréal
"Belle de Dalhousie"
1986 3270
Volvo BB225B

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 29 Sep 2017 21:25 #39

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I cut my hatch today. I wasn't expecting a foam core. Jig saw cut the corners like they where soft butter. I should have cut closer to the starboard side. Now it's time to cut some monkey fur and work on the collar.

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1989 3288
"Defiant"
5.7 L gas powered

2003 Yamaha FX Cruiser

MMSI 316 034 392

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 30 Sep 2017 00:46 #40

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Looks good. I installed some led strip lights in the cave this year. Don't need a head lamp any more when doing work in there.

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"Martini's Law"
1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
Nova Scotia, Canada

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 30 Sep 2017 02:42 #41

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I kept the mess to a minimum by putting up plastic sheets to make a room and laid a sheet out inside the cave.

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1989 3288
"Defiant"
5.7 L gas powered

2003 Yamaha FX Cruiser

MMSI 316 034 392

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 30 Sep 2017 18:32 #42

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nice work!

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1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 30 Sep 2017 19:58 #43

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So far so good. I bet you feel better after making that cut, I know I did. Quick question. Some hatch projects used screws to attach the support ring from underneath and some used machine screws and nuts from above. With a foam core wouldn't it be more secure to through bolt the support ring? Just thinking out loud.

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1984 3270 Explorer
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 30 Sep 2017 21:50 #44

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PKH3270 wrote: So far so good. I bet you feel better after making that cut, I know I did. Quick question. Some hatch projects used screws to attach the support ring from underneath and some used machine screws and nuts from above. With a foam core wouldn't it be more secure to through bolt the support ring? Just thinking out loud.


I would prefer not to through bolt. I don’t know the holding power of the 5200 and 72 screws. I’m hoping someone that did the work with a foam core will chime in with their knowledge.

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1989 3288
"Defiant"
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2003 Yamaha FX Cruiser

MMSI 316 034 392

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 01 Oct 2017 00:10 #45

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5200 and screws should be enough as long as there is enough contact surface between the floor and the new frame.
I used 4" strips but may have used wider strips if I had encountered foamcore instead of plywood.

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CapMartin, Montréal
"Belle de Dalhousie"
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 01 Oct 2017 01:53 #46

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Just wondering if the foam core is structurally sound or will you need to run some supports up from the bottom and attach them to the ring underneath the deck?

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Dan
Frostbite Falls, Minnesota
Claudia V. III
1988 - 3218
Gas Drives

My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 01 Oct 2017 02:10 #47

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I agree that the 5200 and screws will adequately hold the support ring to the underside and wider is better. My concern is the possible separation of the lower layer from the core. Foam is great in compression, not so much in tension and when weight is applied to the hatch the lower surface would bear the load. One way to keep the layers from separating is by removing some foam at the edge and glassing in a strip of wood or maybe soaking the foam with resin. That sounds hideous to me and I would think about some inconspicuous oval head Phillips machine screws, carefully countersunk into the salon floor, through the support ring, about an inch from the edge. Just a few, two on the long sides and one in each corner. 2 1/4", 10-24, stainless with washers and lock nut might do. Measure the thickness to be sure though. No need to torque them much and this could be done after everything else is completed. Paint to match cause they won't be coming out again. Good luck
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1984 3270 Explorer
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 01 Oct 2017 10:48 #48

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You've got the cut made now Joe. I think you'll be ok once the supporting ring is in place with 5200 and stagger the screws from underneath so all the screws are not along the edge of the cut. Applying some epoxy along the edge of the cut sounds like a good idea as suggested. Worst case scenario if it starts to separate is thru bolting the supporting ring.

Keep us posted.

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"Martini's Law"
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 02 Oct 2017 15:26 #49

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We went longer (fore and aft) than most others we have seen. Kept it simple with the hinges standing proud, but the handle set it, on the basis that we didn't want to weaken the laminate at the hinges, whereas this was no issue for the handle. Surround plinth glued and through bolted. All edges done with epoxy resin and white flocoat.

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A lifetime of racing everything from dinghies to world girdlers, but one of those lucky people who just love being afloat. So .... when the body doesn't work like before, it doesn't mean staying ashore.
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My 32XX Cave Hatch Project 02 Oct 2017 23:06 #50

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Hamnavoe wrote: We went longer (fore and aft) than most others we have seen. Kept it simple with the hinges standing proud, but the handle set it, on the basis that we didn't want to weaken the laminate at the hinges, whereas this was no issue for the handle. Surround plinth glued and through bolted. All edges done with epoxy resin and white flocoat.




Nice work on the edges.
I notice even though your hatch is longer, it is set back from the helm further than others I have seen. That could make removing the water heater difficult.
I like the storage shelf where the table goes too. I can't put one there as I have an electric fireplace in that area.

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1989 3288
"Defiant"
5.7 L gas powered

2003 Yamaha FX Cruiser

MMSI 316 034 392
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