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TOPIC: Dave's transom repair my 2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 15:58 #51

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Looking good Dave. But I have a question. With a coat of epoxy brushed on, aren't you going to have to crawl in there again and sand the whole surface again before you glass over it?

Is the 406 a powder?

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1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 16:26 #52

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Why yes I am Larry, thanks for reminding me, :P one of the drawbacks I guess. I thought the tank area would be a good place to "learn" how the epoxy behaves. The 406 filler is weird stuff to say the least. It's a super fine powder and "floats" on top of the epoxy mix when added. It's takes a bit of working/stirring the epoxy to finally get it mixed in. The other fillers and my grindings mix in fairly easily. The 406 is also bad stuff to be breathing, I wear a chemical respirator when using it. Colloidal Silica. After mixed it will stand off the side of the mix cup 1 1/2" without sagging.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 17:09 #53

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Getting to know the characteristics of the epoxy was a good idea. It gives you an idea of how much working time you had with it. That was one of the things I had to get used to in the beginning.
Did the silica seem to extend the time it took for the epoxy to cure? It does when I add filler to the poly resin.
Keep at it Dave, it'll be second nature to you soon.

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Sacramento, CA.
1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 17:19 #54

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Not sure if it does, but I wasn't really looking for stuff like that. Maybe I'll learn more today. ;)

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 17:36 #55

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Keep notes of the temperatures your working in and the curing times. It will help refresh your memory if you go long periods without working in the boat.
As temps go up the cure time will shorten.

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Sacramento, CA.
1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 02 Apr 2014 03:48 #56

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Got in the boat today, sanded the the back half of what I did yesterday to prep for the repairs to the rear section of the fuel tank area. I also cut a piece of 3/4 PVC to stick in the bottom of the aft bulkhead to replace the one that was glassed in crooked. I had also cut into it when removing the old material.



Started in the center and worked outward. Stuck the PVC drain in with some thickened epoxy and used the rest of my small batch to start the fillets.

Then onto sticking the outer tank runners. I used the 403 filler today for bonding the new plywood runners and found it works great for fillets as well. I think I like it better, much easier to mix too.

Accidentally made a hockey puck as I forgot about my mix while I was working on the PVC drain tube.

I also have a puck from yesterday too.
Oops. :lol:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 02 Apr 2014 06:05 #57

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LRCX 2750 wrote: I have a question. With a coat of epoxy brushed on, aren't you going to have to crawl in there again and sand the whole surface again before you glass over it?

Maybe not - many times I applied more over top of cured parts without washing off the blush, but if you are concerned, read this - Oh and I warned you about those hockey pucks!

Unless you're using WEST SYSTEM's blush-free 207 Special Clear Hardener, amine blush may appear as a wax-like film on cured epoxy surfaces. It is a by-product of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions. Amine blush can clog sandpaper and inhibit subsequent bonding, but this inert substance can easily be removed.

To remove the blush, wash the surface with clean water (not solvent) and an abrasive pad, such as Scotch-brite(TM) 7447 General Purpose Hand Pads. Dry the surface with paper towels to remove the dissolved blush before it dries on the surface. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80-grit sandpaper. Wet-sanding will also remove the amine blush. If a release fabric is applied over the surface of fresh epoxy, amine blush will be removed when the release fabric is peeled from the cured epoxy and no additional sanding is required.

Epoxy surfaces that have not fully cured may be bonded to or coated with epoxy without washing or sanding. Before applying coatings other than epoxy (paints, bottom paints, varnishes, gelcoats, etc.), allow epoxy surfaces to cure fully, then wash and sand.

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1996 4788 PILOTHOUSE
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Last Edit: by Timberwolf.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 02 Apr 2014 14:41 #58

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Great thread Dave. I'm still thinking about purchasing the 3270 and putting myself in your shoes. Too bad you live on the other coast, I would come over and give you a hand and learn fiberglass on someone else's project!

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 02 Apr 2014 18:05 #59

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So I just got off the phone with West System tech support. As Timberwolf said, amine blush may appear as a wax-like film on cured epoxy surfaces. It is a by-product of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions. I have been using a 500 watt halogen work light to see with and for a heat source in the bilge area to keep the temps up at night. I am not seeing any wax- like film on the surface of the cured epoxy the next day, just a clear hard epoxy layer. When I hit it with 60 or 80 grit it doesn't clog the paper and sands reasonably well. One thing I asked about when talking to tech support was the possibility of using 206(slow cure) or 207(blush free/ slow cure) hardener in the mix as an "end of the day coat" to keep from having to sand the next day. He said that many professional shops do this to eliminate the prep time of cleaning and sanding the next day.
I'm not really sure I need to worry about it. The tank area is the largest area to have to prep, and the hardest to access( laying down to get all the way in there). Once I'm finished with it, the rest of the project is much more accessible for prep.
Off to lay some glass :cheer:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 02 Apr 2014 18:08 #60

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rddelfino wrote: Great thread Dave. I'm still thinking about purchasing the 3270 and putting myself in your shoes. Too bad you live on the other coast, I would come over and give you a hand and learn fiberglass on someone else's project!

Those were my exact thoughts when Larry started his rebuild. Let us now what you decide to do, sounds like that boat has lot of newer stuff installed. Would love to see some pics of it if ya get a chance ;)

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 02 Apr 2014 19:12 #61

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Dave you are creating a master piece better than the factory ever dreamed of, when working with West System there tricks but support is excellent as I can see you have found out. How is the iching. :lol: Fritz

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Old Glue

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 01:20 #62

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When it comes to this stuff, I'm a sponge. In my opinion, the best way to learn about this stuff (other than doing it yourself) is to follow threads like Dave's on a forum. I like to see the pictures, hear about the less than ideal conditions, and best of all, I like to see something done right and see a less than perfect product made usable and sound. I found several good blogs that people started just to show all their hard work and the results. Keep up the good work Dave.

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Last Edit: by rddelfino. Reason: typo

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 03:21 #63

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rddelfino wrote: When it comes to this stuff, I'm a sponge. In my opinion, the best way to learn about this stuff (other than doing it yourself) is to follow threads like Dave's on a forum. I like to see the pictures, hear about the less than ideal conditions, and best of all, I like to see something done right and see a less than perfect product made usable and sound. I found several good blogs that people started just to show all their hard work and the results. Keep up the good work Dave.

Thanks, I plan on it, and yes I am learning all about epoxy. I be a pro when I'm finished :silly:
If you haven't already, check out Larry's thread. Mine is peanuts compared to what he has done/ is doing. That guy has some seriousness talent!
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ia-unplanned-project

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 03:23 #64

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fritzman wrote: Dave you are creating a master piece better than the factory ever dreamed of, when working with West System there tricks but support is excellent as I can see you have found out. How is the iching. :lol: Fritz

No itching for a while now. Think I might be done with the major glass grinding, I hope :whistle:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 03:33 #65

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I think I made some good progress today. I had sanded everything I did yesterday, wet it out and put a layer of glass over it. Had to do it in multiple pieces cause it was a major pain to get my azz in there far enough to start. Afterwards I made a run to Fisheries to get some 207(slow cure/no blush) hardener and mixed up a batch to coat over everything I laid up today. Should be able to recoat it tomorrow without having to sand :woohoo:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 04:01 #66

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Alright Dave, fess up. With results like you've produced it's hard to believe you've never done this before. Nice job on such a large area for your first time!
Your already looking like a pro at this.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 05:03 #67

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LRCX 2750 wrote: Did the silica seem to extend the time it took for the epoxy to cure? .


Not in my experience, cure times are about the same.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 05:28 #68

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dewman wrote:

LRCX 2750 wrote: Did the silica seem to extend the time it took for the epoxy to cure? .


Not in my experience, cure times are about the same.

I thought it may have sped things up a bit, but then again I was using 205(fast cure) :lol:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 07:17 #69

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LRCX 2750 wrote: Alright Dave, fess up. With results like you've produced it's hard to believe you've never done this before. Nice job on such a large area for your first time!
Your already looking like a pro at this.

Larry, I gotta pipe in here, I think you both doing a great job, but Dave has an advantage, its the epoxy resin!
Honest, the stuff is easy to work with, other than curing faster then you might want at times, its very forgiving.
I actually like the fast cure, no waiting for the last piece to cure before moving on to the next part.
And its strong, will bond to anything.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 16:53 #70

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LRCX 2750 wrote: Alright Dave, fess up. With results like you've produced it's hard to believe you've never done this before. Nice job on such a large area for your first time!
Your already looking like a pro at this.

Thanks man, I'm only following your excellent examples Larry ;)

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 22:59 #71

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Dave and Larry have been following both of your projects I will describe you as artists in glass, many that call themselves pros in this game need to look at the craftsmanship exhibited and learn from it. I know from my own that the learning curve never stops. :lol: Dave was you fuel tank flat on the bottom ore in a V to add gal.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 03 Apr 2014 23:01 #72

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I just wanted to say YOU ARE DOING A GREAT JOB!!!!!!!

Oh and when your done I'll drop my 2556 of to you :)

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Apr 2014 02:48 #73

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fritzman wrote: Dave and Larry have been following both of your projects I will describe you as artists in glass, many that call themselves pros in this game need to look at the craftsmanship exhibited and learn from it. I know from my own that the learning curve never stops. :lol: Dave was you fuel tank flat on the bottom ore in a V to add gal.

I'm replacing the old leaker with the same size 105 gallons from Coastline Equipment

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Apr 2014 03:24 #74

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wing-n-it wrote: I just wanted to say YOU ARE DOING A GREAT JOB!!!!!!!

Oh and when your done I'll drop my 2556 of to you :)

Thanks man, I could use an extra boat :P

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Apr 2014 03:30 #75

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Hey Dave, you might want to read Steve's article on fuel tank installation

www.passagemaker.com/channels/fuel-tank-installation-notes/

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www.baylinerownersclub.org/~bayline1/ind...ics-and-a-video-link
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