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TOPIC: Dave's transom repair my 2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 03:53 #26

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Good point. And I remember you set the bag of fibers in front of the heater to dry them up. Ok I'll start treating my fibers better :lol:

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Dave
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.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
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www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 12:39 #27

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Dust men or angles, now there is something to sneeze about :P

Grind away and i'll fire up the blower :lol:

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 18:58 #28

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builderdude wrote: Good point. And I remember you set the bag of fibers in front of the heater to dry them up. Ok I'll start treating my fibers better :lol:


You don't have to keep a heater in front of them, unless they were wet in the first place. But it doesn't look like they were. Just keep them in an area where they can't absorb moisture. I keep mine in my shop so they stay warm and dry.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 07 Mar 2014 05:27 #29

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Got out early today to hopefully finish up my grinding. I thought id try to put a box fan against the key hole to pull the floating dust fibers out of my work area.

It worked really good. I made another good sized pile of grinding fibers, with very little floating around in there. My 5 gallon bucket is now almost full. :silly:

Had about another hour or so to go when my grinder decided to give up on me, tried to fix it but the trigger was shot. I was all taped up and prepared to finish too. :side: I needed a new one anyway and picked up some extra discs while I was there (home depot). Here's a shot of the yard after I climbed out.

So another bit of grinding tomorrow and maybe a transom core template if I have time.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 07 Mar 2014 06:54 #30

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Now that all looks so familiar. Cool setup with the fan. Sorry to hear about the grinder. I kept expecting mine to give up but it never did. One thing to make sure you do once in a while is to blow out the grinder with an air hose while it's running. Glass dust is rough on electronics.
It may sound crazy, but since a lot of the dust outside is in a generalized area, I would vacuum up as much as possible. You don't want to be getting that dust all over yourself or the family later down the road.
Keep at it Dave it's sounds like your almost done with the grinding.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 07 Mar 2014 12:48 #31

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builderdude wrote: Got out early today to hopefully finish up my grinding. I thought id try to put a box fan against the key hole to pull the floating dust fibers out of my work area.

It worked really good. I made another good sized pile of grinding fibers, with very little floating around in there. My 5 gallon bucket is now almost full. :silly:

Had about another hour or so to go when my grinder decided to give up on me, tried to fix it but the trigger was shot. I was all taped up and prepared to finish too. :side: I needed a new one anyway and picked up some extra discs while I was there (home depot). Here's a shot of the yard after I climbed out.

So another bit of grinding tomorrow and maybe a transom core template if I have time.



Soon you will be able to make your own dust angle ;)

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 08 Mar 2014 04:37 #32

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Put my new grinder to work today.

I think I'm finished with the major grinding. Here's a shot all cleaned up.

After a good 2-3 hours of cleaning up and vacuuming glass dust from everywhere I decided to install 3 new through hull fittings. All Stainless, fuel vent, water and holding tank vents. Used 5200

Holding tank vent is a standard through hull type, so you can blast it clean w the hose when it plugs up :)

Didn't get to making my transom template, maybe this weekend :whistle:
PS my bucket of fibers is now full :silly:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 12 Mar 2014 02:22 #33

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A couple days ago I hopped in the boat and made a template for the transom core. I used heavy kraft type paper, taped it to the transom so it wouldn't move and trimmed it out.

Today I picked up my core plywood. ABX 3/4 marine grade. Set it up on the saw horses and using my template I marked out my 2 transom cores. I had just enough room to get both cores out of the one sheet.



I plan to use all thread running through the "keyhole" and the scupper drain holes to clamp up my core tight to the transom. Ill also need to put 2 extra holes through the transom for additional clamping points. Here's a shot of the first core setting in place for a test fit. It sits above the piece of Doug fir at the very bottom of the hull. I'll fill the 3/8 "core holes" up when I get to glassing things up. The first core has about a 1/4 to 3/8 gap around the perimeter and I put a 3/8 radius on it too.

Here's another shot of both cores pre drilled for the all thread

.
Now it's time to go get some fiberglass supplies

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 12 Mar 2014 02:49 #34

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It's looking really good Dave. I'll bet your glad to be done with all the preparation grinding.
Your lucky that you could get both cores out of one sheet even though they look larger than that.
Keep at at it Dude and you'll be on the water LONG before I am. Nice work!!!!

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 12 Mar 2014 10:06 #35

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Coming along nice.

Keep it all in this topic, and when you feel the thread is complete, send me a pm and we can discuss your options as to where you would like the topic to be put up, in it's entirety.

I may not be posting regularly to this topic, but i will be following it very closely.

May the boat g-ds be with you !
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Dave's transom repair my 2556 12 Mar 2014 15:15 #36

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Thanks Chief, ill be in touch.
So far the boat gods have been really helpful. :lol:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 13 Mar 2014 03:46 #37

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You're a warrior Dave. That looks great! Glad the weather warmed up for the glass work. Had no idea you had that big of a project going.
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Dave's transom repair my 2556 13 Mar 2014 16:24 #38

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Indenial wrote: You're a warrior Dave. That looks great! Glad the weather warmed up for the glass work. Had no idea you had that big of a project going.

Thanks, not sure about being a Warrior, just want to go boating :lol: projects always seem to go farther than originally anticipated. As I've read on this site: " boats are like onions, you just keep peeling back the layers" :)

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Dave
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 13 Mar 2014 16:29 #39

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builderdude wrote:

Indenial wrote: You're a warrior Dave. That looks great! Glad the weather warmed up for the glass work. Had no idea you had that big of a project going.

Thanks, not sure about being a Warrior, just want to go boating :lol: projects always seem to go farther than originally anticipated. As I've read on this site: " boats are like onions, you just keep peeling back the layers" :)



Some boats like onions make you cry and other don't.

Chin up Spring is coming :cheer:

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 15 Mar 2014 10:22 #40

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Keep it up Dave. Your doing great! It gets easier from here on!

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 15 Mar 2014 17:07 #41

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builderdude wrote: Put my new grinder to work today.

I think I'm finished with the major grinding. Here's a shot all cleaned up.

After a good 2-3 hours of cleaning up and vacuuming glass dust from everywhere I decided to install 3 new through hull fittings. All Stainless, fuel vent, water and holding tank vents. Used 5200

Holding tank vent is a standard through hull type, so you can blast it clean w the hose when it plugs up :)

Didn't get to making my transom template, maybe this weekend :whistle:
PS my bucket of fibers is now full :silly:


Nice job on those SS thru hull fittings, they are sexy...
Where from? How much?

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 15 Mar 2014 17:19 #42

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Got some from Harbor Marine and some at Fisheries supply. All Stainless :)
The little fuel tank ones about $12-15
3/4-1 1/8" about $18-25
1 1/2 about $25-30
I like the ones from fisheries better they don't have the little tabs on the inside. That's the only difference I could tell.
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 28 Mar 2014 03:45 #43

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Ok, can't let Larry have all the fun :silly:
Had to go make some $ so I could buy my materials. I now have enough to get me started (I hope). Going to use West system epoxy for the repairs. So far I have 2 gallons of resin and 2 quarts of hardener (1 fast cure and 1 slow cure) , and some biaxial sewn to heavy mat and some plain mat. I've got lots of little fills/ repairs to do around the fuel tank area and transom area before I plunge into sticking the transom core(s), so I'm going to start with the small stuff first. My plan is to do some "testing" on an old piece of the inner skin so I can get the hang of the epoxy and thickening it with the " grindings" before I attempt to use it in the boat. Don't want to mess this up! I hope to get to some of the small things tomorrow.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 29 Mar 2014 16:58 #44

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Did some quick testing yesterday on a the interior skin. Mixed up some resin and fast cure hardener for about 2 minutes, then started to add some of my grindings to thicken it up. Stuck down 2 separate pieces of cedar with the thickened up mix but didn't wet out either surface first. :ohmy:




This morning I thought I'd see just how strong it bonded by trying to break it off of the skin. Keep in mind the skin was only an 1/8" at best and was flexing and creaking while I was trying to peel off the wood.

I'm convinced I don't need to worry about the strength of this stuff, but I'm going to get some of West systems 406 filler to try instead of the grindings. I want to see if it will hold the shape of the fillet after its been tooled. The mix I used for the fillets would sag/settle down over time and the 406 isn't supposed too. We shall see.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 29 Mar 2014 19:40 #45

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The amount of resin/filler you used on your test pieces is more than needed, a thin film would suffice. As long as the pieces you are bonding have a clean mating surface, as in two new pieces of wood, a thin film, without any fillers even, will do. If bonding a piece of wood to an uneven piece of glass, then you need the filler to make for a thicker film (gap filling properties). One of the strengths/reasons I choose to use West System is that ability to create a bond stronger than the material, ie. the wood will break before the glue joint will let go.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 29 Mar 2014 20:22 #46

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Timberwolf wrote: The amount of resin/filler you used on your test pieces is more than needed, a thin film would suffice. As long as the pieces you are bonding have a clean mating surface, as in two new pieces of wood, a thin film, without any fillers even, will do. If bonding a piece of wood to an uneven piece of glass, then you need the filler to make for a thicker film (gap filling properties). One of the strengths/reasons I choose to use West System is that ability to create a bond stronger than the material, ie. the wood will break before the glue joint will let go.

I guess I was trying to bond and try my hand at a fillet all at the same time. :silly:
Still learning. When it comes time to stick my transom core I won't thicken the epoxy till after the core has been glued in with non thickened material and some biaxial cloth in there too. Then after its clamped up I will ad some 406 I think to thicken it up and fill in the small gap around the edge of the core. That's my plan anyway, what do you think? I still need to wait for better warmer weather. Thanks for the advise.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 30 Mar 2014 06:55 #47

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When it comes to your transom, I doubt you can ensure 100 % coverage without some filler. You will need some gap filling properties. Without filler, the resin will likely just run to the bottom, gravity can be very inconvenient.
When I was skinning my hull, I was used 5 layers of very flexible 4 ml plywood. I pushed the first layer from underneath while I stapled the second layer in place. Just two layers bonded together creates a lamination and has strength beyond what you would expect. If you can apply pressure over the entire surface ( in my case, lots of staples) or are able to clamp two stiff pieces, such as two pieces of 3/4", resin alone will give you a good bond.

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Last Edit: by Timberwolf.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 30 Mar 2014 17:00 #48

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Timberwolf wrote: When it comes to your transom, I doubt you can ensure 100 % coverage without some filler. You will need some gap filling properties. Without filler, the resin will likely just run to the bottom, gravity can be very inconvenient.
When I was skinning my hull, I was used 5 layers of very flexible 4 ml plywood. I pushed the first layer from underneath while I stapled the second layer in place. Just two layers bonded together creates a lamination and has strength beyond what you would expect. If you can apply pressure over the entire surface ( in my case, lots of staples) or are able to clamp two stiff pieces, such as two pieces of 3/4", resin alone will give you a good bond.

I was thinking more about the core replacement last night, seems to wake me up around 3-4 AM. Just can't turn off my brain :silly: as you have suggested, I don't think I really need to add any mat when I stick the first core to the transom, some non thickened resin brushed on both pieces followed by some resin thickened with 403 troweled on should do it. Adding a mat in there might make things to difficult.
Gonna go do some testing with some of the fillers now.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 04:00 #49

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Not exactly transom work, but work that needs to be done before the fuel tank is installed.
I thought I'd give a go at some epoxy repair today in the fuel tank area. I had previously ground out all the crapy glass work on either side of all 4 plywood runners that the fuel tank sits on, it was laid up or shot in there by a monkey I think. Actually a monkey could have one a better job :side: Full of air pockets and massive gaps in the glasswork allowed water ingress into the plywood runners. I had to remove a section of each outer runner do to rot.
So a not so quick bit of sanding and cleaning and I was ready for some epoxy.

I had to lay down and tuck my head under the floor of the cabin to reach all the way to the forward fuel tank bulkhead. I brushed on some un thickened epoxy just in the center area to start with.

I used about 1/2 of what I had mixed up and the other 1/2 got some 406 filler added to it. The 406 is cool stuff, it's made for vertical and overhead work. If mixed properly it will not sag or fall out of where its been placed. I used it to shape a fillet of sorts on each side of the plywood runners. I plan to glass it all in after the new pieces are installed and everything has been filled. After all, this is part of the bilge and will potentially get some water in there at some point. I want the piece of mind knowing these runners will stay dry forever.



This all took way longer than I expected ( big surprise!) but I'm starting to get the hang of it. Tomorrow I hope to get the new sections of the runners stuck down and most of the fillets done. We shall see :whistle:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 01 Apr 2014 11:50 #50

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Wow Dave I don't ever plan to take on a project this big but between you and Larry I sure am learning a lot.

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