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TOPIC: Dave's transom repair my 2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 04:51 #1

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So I've decided to dive into my transom repair. After removing just about everything from the engine bay and looping my throttle, shift, steering cables and PA steering cylinder around (with the help of some zip ties), I labeled up the wiring harness, removed it from the transom, and "coiled" it up with the rest of the cables and such.




Then removed my deck drain hoses and scuppers, most of the hardware that holds the swim platform to the transom, and the stainless U bolts. Now ready for some cutting.
You can see at the bottom the glass has delaminated around the drain hole.



Started on the center section first. The glass was only about an 1/8 thick at best till I got down close to the bottom then it got thicker. The plywood (2layers of 3/4 I think) was toast! Half came off w the glass and the rest came off real quick with a flat bar all the way down to the bottom piece around the drain. It was a solid piece of DF and was still sound and seems to be stuck in good but does have moisture in it.

You can see the piece of DF right above the flat bar, it has some 3/8 holes in it from the core sampling.

The outer layer of glass measures 1/2 thick around the transom assembly but appears to get thiner as it moves outward, maybe just under 3/8 by the time I got to the part of the transom that starts to angle forward. The core appears to only be 3/8 thick from this point on out to the sides.



Then onto cleaning/removing the last of the engine stringer "pockets"

Here's pics of the bottom where the engine stringers met the transom.




It looks to me like this transom has been worked on before. 4 separate pieces were used on both port and starboard sides of center section and I could see where the cut lines were previously made.
Things that make ya go hmmmmmm?
So now I'm wondering, how do I know if polyester resin was used for the previous repair or epoxy? Is there some way to find out, or should I just grind it all back to where I hopefully will now its original?
EDIT: going back over my thread, I belive this was this was factory work done with polyester resin and the transom is the original BL "quality"
Could someone rotate that upside down pic for me :silly:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 06:34 #2

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Looking good Dave. I've wondered where you've been the last few days. I'll be following along on your project.
My fingers are crossed for you that the needs stay in the bilge.

Question, does the plywood cores go all the way across the transom? It doesn't look like it in the pictures.

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Sacramento, CA.
1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 06:41 #3

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 06:51 #4

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Hey Larry, the plywood core does go all the way across. It appears to be a 3/8 plywood core but could be 1/2, then an additional 1/2 plywood core starts at the outward main stringers (this is where the transom angles forward a bit), then there is another 1/2 layer on top of that starting at the engine stringers for a total thickness of 2" around the T assembly after it was all glassed up.
EDIT: The original core was 2 layers of 3/4" plywood around the transom assembly only (between the engine stringers). It then stepped down to a single layer of 3/4" plywood from that point to where the transom angles forward. From there on out its a single layer of 3/8" plywood.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 06:54 #5

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Timberwolf wrote:

Good deal :cheer: but could the BOC gods replace my upside down pic in the original post with it? :whistle:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 11:54 #6

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Ok i pulled the upside pic and replaced it per your request.

Keep it coming, take lots and lots of pics.

When you feel the topic is complete, you have options, please pm me anytime we can discuss them.
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Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

'86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 13:01 #7

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Dave..... a bit too late now, but should you take on a similar project in the future, I would strongly suggest that you leave as much of the original stringer "shells" as possible, and remove only the tops of the shells!


.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 16:36 #8

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2850Bounty wrote: Dave..... a bit too late now, but should you take on a similar project in the future, I would strongly suggest that you leave as much of the original stringer "shells" as possible, and remove only the tops of the shells!


.

Hey Rick, I read about doing it that way. Funny thing was I originally cut the engine stringer shells about 1/2 way up. Once I pealed the tops off I found the wood inside was in fairly good shape (wet but solid) except for the very tops (tower area) were completely rotten. Maybe I could have spliced in some new wood on top of the old, but I had my self convinced that the engine stringers needed to be cut down close to the bottom because I needed the space for removing the fuel tank. Not sure if I needed that much space but It is what it is and the tank came out real easy. Also now that the transom and fuel tank bulkhead are in the mix I feel like it'll make the glass work a bit easier. Or not :silly:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 16:44 #9

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Chief Alen wrote: Ok i pulled the upside pic and replaced it per your request.

Keep it coming, take lots and lots of pics.

When you feel the topic is complete, you have options, please pm me anytime we can discuss them.

Thanks chief, I think I figured out why the pics go sideways and upside own. It's an Apple thing or tablet thing. I took that pic with my iPhone upside down. The phone knows this and simply rotates the image to right side up for viewing etc., but there must be a code within the pic that tells BOC to stick it in the way it was taken. This also happens when I take pics in portrait mode, they get rotated 90* counter clockwise.
Thanks again for fixing it. :cheer:
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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 18:01 #10

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Dave how far forward have you removed the stringers? Hope it's not as involved as Larry's.

Off to a good start, thank's for documenting the project.

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1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 04 Mar 2014 18:14 #11

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Hey Mike, just had to do my engine stringers only. They go from the transom and stop at the fuel tank bulkhead, about 3 1/2 feet I'm guessing. My main stringers are solid as it looks like the plywood core of the transom does not go all the way to the bottom of the hull in that area. It tucks down just below the top of the box, then it goes to solid fiberglass.
That white triangle area is solid fiberglass 3/4 to 1" thick. Both sides are this way, but the port box steps down (lower) about 1 1/2" half way back. I've seen photos of other engine bays set up the same.




Anyone else have this type of set up on a 2556? Mines a 93

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 03:44 #12

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Dave, have you drilled a hole in those triangle sections to make sure there's no plywood in there?

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Sacramento, CA.
1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 04:01 #13

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I haven't, but now that you bring it up guess what I'm doing first thing tomorrow? :P
You bring up a great point, I am assuming they are solid glass because I can see the thickness from the edge of it, but there could be some old rotten plywood buried in there being that I'm positive this transom has been worked on before.
That's one reason I had inquired of other 2556 owners to see if anyone had the same look to their transom that I do. I guess it's not that big of an area to grind out compared to the grinding you've had to do.
EDIT: Looking back on my project I am now sure this transom has never been repaired. I belive this is the original transom core done by BL

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 04:16 #14

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Your going to have to grind all that paint off anyway, so you'd find out sooner or later. But I just don't see BLer taking the time to fill an area with 1" of layered glass.
I was waiting to see if anyone else had the same setup as yours before I asked my question.
OK, one more. Is the outside of the transom flat across the back? It almost sounds by your description above like it's not.

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Sacramento, CA.
1979 27' Bayliner Victoria W/fly bridge. 2X/Volvo AQ140A, with 2X/44 PHN3 solex side draft carbs. 280 outdrives.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 04:36 #15

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My transom is flat only in the center section (about 4 1/2 feet (guessing)) then both sides angle forward about 8-10* (again a guess)
Looking down from the top would look something like this


Ya like my drawing :whistle:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 05:54 #16

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I guess I understood correctly then. Now I see why they didn't take the cores all the way across in one piece.
That makes it a bit easier to do then mine was I would guess. And yes, nice drawing.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 13:16 #17

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Dave, you at a point where if you want to make your 2556 scoot...................

m.ebay.com/itm/261413354545

ebay.com/itm/261413354545

(wrong ratio....... but ya get the idea)


.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 05 Mar 2014 16:46 #18

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I never thought to change out the drive as the po just had a new lower unit installed a year before I bought the boat. I have 2 props for it also. A 19 and 21 pitch. He always carried a spare on board. I will be going through the engine and wanted to get your opinion on the possibility of stroking my 5.7 for some more HP while I have it apart but not 100% on that idea yet as my main focus is to get my fuel tank in and transom core repaired and get it all glassed back together so I have a boat again.

Thoughts on stroking my current set up?
Guess that could/ will be a different thread when the time comes :whistle:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 01:23 #19

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Today was spent grinding and grinding, and some more grinding. 24 grit chewed it up quick. Should have taped my pant legs to my shoes :side:
I drilled in some test holes in the triangle areas that I suspected were solid glass, and they were. It's about 3/4 - 1" thick at the bottom and tapers down to 1/8 - 1/4" moving up, after grinding all the white off its a bit thinner now.
Here's a shot of both triangle shaped areas after grinding, haven't vacuumed yet




And more grinding on the bottom where the engine stringers go.


And a 1/2 bucket of dust


Tomorrow Ill try to get all the rest of the prep grinding finished so I can hopefully be done with the dust storm :silly:
Anyone have any thoughts on how to determine if this is polyester resin or epoxy? It's all red in color, would that make it polyester? Is Epoxy grey/white? Sure was super thick in some areas, like it was poured on.
EDIT: in hind site I now know this was the original polyester resin layup and no previous repairs have been made

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 02:12 #20

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Looking good and I feel for ya Dave with all the grinding. Good that you know those spots are solid now.
Don't vacuum up any more of the grinding dust than you have to. It takes more fibers added to resin to make the paste than you would think.
It's better to have too much than not enough.
Keep up the grinding and try to get ALL of it done before you quit. That way you don't have to regret looking forward to going back and grinding more later.

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 02:49 #21

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Now I get it! We all have been thinking it has been snowing when it has really been Dave and Larry grinding away :woohoo:

Hey guys how many more inches can we expect?

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Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 03:11 #22

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Hey Mike, I'll contribute another 1/2" before I'm done :side:
If you'd like, you can come over and roll around in the white stuff and maybe build yourself a dustman :silly:

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 03:21 #23

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LRCX 2750 wrote: Looking good and I feel for ya Dave with all the grinding. Good that you know those spots are solid now.
Don't vacuum up any more of the grinding dust than you have to. It takes more fibers added to resin to make the paste than you would think.
It's better to have too much than not enough.
Keep up the grinding and try to get ALL of it done before you quit. That way you don't have to regret looking forward to going back and grinding more later.

You mean I have to touch that stuff again? I'll probably have to buy some mill fibers if I don't end up with enough. A lot of the dust wasn't that clean.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
"THE FIX"
'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 03:22 #24

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OR a dust angel!

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Sacramento, CA.
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Dave's transom repair my 2556 06 Mar 2014 03:38 #25

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builderdude wrote:

LRCX 2750 wrote: Looking good and I feel for ya Dave with all the grinding. Good that you know those spots are solid now.
Don't vacuum up any more of the grinding dust than you have to. It takes more fibers added to resin to make the paste than you would think.
It's better to have too much than not enough.
Keep up the grinding and try to get ALL of it done before you quit. That way you don't have to regret looking forward to going back and grinding more later.

You mean I have to touch that stuff again? I'll probably have to buy some mill fibers if I don't end up with enough. A lot of the dust wasn't that clean.


Before I use ANY of my grinding fibers, I sift them through a screen of 1/4" screen to remove anything too large. Remember that every particle in the fibers will be encapsulated in resin. I few wood of other fibers won't be a problem when your using it as a bonding paste.
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