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TOPIC: Windlass Install, Contessa

Windlass Install, Contessa 31 Jan 2014 20:02 #1

  • BobbieNicole
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The problem with installing a windlass on this boat is that the rope locker is just useless for the task. Upfront I will say that the arrangement I created works so-so, it sometimes binds up, but the line can be pulled thru from the v-berth or the line pile toppled over if need be. So, while not elated with the result, it is still better than pulling line by hand. I played withe the length and slope of the tubes from the deck to the storage compartment I chose to use until I found something that worked reasonably well. I used two inch pvc pipe and found that it helped to bevel the edges prior to putting the pieces together. Your line does feed better when wet, so dry running it was a bit of a put off, but it worked better in actual use. My connection to the bottom of the deck at the front of the v-berth is a drain pipe flange. Note also that the bow roller is installed off center to not interfere with the existing rope locker.
The photos are not good, I somehow lost most of the ones I had and these are with the boat tarped for winter.











The pipe running down the center of the v-berth might be off-putting as well, but we have had people spend the night and they said it wasn't a bother. Oh, and I was able to get all that 5200 off the cushions! I wired it with three stations (lower and upper helm, and foot switches; I ran the power through a breaker switch at the lower helm. I installed the breaker and one of the switches on a panel I made of a piece of scrap plexi-glass--it can be seen across the captains seat.


So far no foul smells from the line in the v-berth. I'm going to call this a success, but not a wild one...

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Bobbie
Anchorage, Alaska
1983 2850 Contessa, 5.7L Volvo-Penta AQ 280, single prop.
Last Edit: by BobbieNicole.

Windlass Install, Contessa 04 Feb 2014 17:06 #2

  • neo12242
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looks good bobbie, i have been thing of doing the samething on mine.....
do you have a photo gallary with all or any of the stuff you have done to your boat... i am always looking for new ideas...
and thanks for the tip on "bevel the edges prior to putting the pieces together" i never would have thought to do that

happy boating

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Roy G.
Home Town: Kenai Alaska
Ports: Homer, AK; Seward, AK
2850 Contessa, Boss Man
Single 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta 280 SP Drives

Windlass Install, Contessa 04 Feb 2014 18:17 #3

  • BobbieNicole
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I have an Espar heater install and a cabinet install on the completed projects forum. I also have pics of running the switch wires to the upper helm--might be helpful if you're doing this on a Contessa flybridge. If I had it to do over I would probably get a windlass that didn't feed (with a capstan and gypsy) and just hand feed it into the locker. There is enough room for 150' of rode which is plenty for most anchorages in Prince William Sound. You could always have a 5 gallon bucket with 200-300 feet of line to add to that if need be. I had to limit the chain length and total rode to get it to feed, but at the bitter end of my line I spliced in a link of chain to be able to connect more line (this way it can feed through the windless completely out of the boat if I unhook it in the locker).

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Bobbie
Anchorage, Alaska
1983 2850 Contessa, 5.7L Volvo-Penta AQ 280, single prop.
Last Edit: by BobbieNicole.

Windlass Install, Contessa 04 Feb 2014 18:23 #4

  • lallan
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Great post I've been think about doing the same thing on my 2860 Trophy, which has the same anchor rode storage problems as the Contessa. A couple of questions:

1) What size chain and line are you using?

2) do you think braided line would work better or worse?

3) What size pipe did you use and do you think there would be any advantage to bigger or smaller pipe?

4) Did you have to open a drain in the 'new' rope locker to empty into the bilge?

Thanks again for the post!

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Lance A.
1986 2860 Trophy soft top
5.7 gm replacment motor, freshwater cooled.
Volvo 280 or 275 with Douprop added.

Windlass Install, Contessa 04 Feb 2014 18:39 #5

  • neo12242
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"I also have pics of running the switch wires to the upper helm--might be helpful if you're doing this on a Contessa flybridge" I would love to see them....

I looked at you Espar and Slide out drawers.... I really like to drawers and I am thinking of doing the same kind of thing in the kitchen area since I use that same space in my boat for cold weather gear and my "O-Shit" gear bag (flares, portable water filter, a few EMTs...)
I would love to have an Espar heater on mine…. But I don’t right now and that space i have Misc parts right now.. but i am moving them to a diffrent place soon…

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Roy G.
Home Town: Kenai Alaska
Ports: Homer, AK; Seward, AK
2850 Contessa, Boss Man
Single 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta 280 SP Drives

Windlass Install, Contessa 04 Feb 2014 19:57 #6

  • BobbieNicole
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Wow, just typed a reply and lost it I think.

Anyway. The chain is 1/4" and the pipe I used is 2", I started with 1 1/2" but it just wasn't working. (I mocked this all up in my garage long before drilling any holes in the boat! There are two answers to you line question, first of all, use what your windlass calls for, and second I prefer 3-strand twisted line. I like the way it wears and is much easier to splice (you will have to do a line to chain splice--not so hard) than braided line. Also 3-strand stiffens as it ages or gets wet, this helps a lot to get the line to channel through the turns and flatter slopes of the channel to the locker. I haven't opened a hole to the bilge yet, but expect I will have to--only had the boat out twice since finishing the project.

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Bobbie
Anchorage, Alaska
1983 2850 Contessa, 5.7L Volvo-Penta AQ 280, single prop.

Windlass Install, Contessa 03 Feb 2015 02:42 #7

  • electriglide
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Hey Bobbie I am looking at installing a verticle windlas on my 2355 ciera sunbridge. Came up with the same idea as you. Do you think it would make any difference if your pipe was one piece formed to follow the keel of your boat to the new locker? I am an electrician and run alot of pvc, I know that every added coupling or factory bend can cause added friction. Thanks for the pics and info it helped me solidify my thoughts on the project.

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1998 Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge 2355
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Windlass Install, Contessa 03 Feb 2015 05:17 #8

  • BobbieNicole
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A single piece molded pipe would help. The chain more than line tends to hang up at couplings, though I beveled the couplers before putting them together which helped a lot. The main issue is the slope of the run, it is just tough to get it to run a great horizontal distance. As I said, I mocked it all up in my garage and played with the angles running the line through many many times. Once I did install it on the boat I ran it many times before gluing up the pieces of PVC. Still it backs up towards the end of retrieving the anchor (we then pull the line from the v-berth), not great but better than hand pulling the line by hand. Not sure what the answer to that would be, if there is one. One tip, when you play with the set up, retrieve the line out of a bucket with water---wet line has a completely different characteristic.
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Bobbie
Anchorage, Alaska
1983 2850 Contessa, 5.7L Volvo-Penta AQ 280, single prop.
Last Edit: by BobbieNicole.

Windlass Install, Contessa 10 Feb 2015 18:52 #9

  • SKUA 28 Contessa
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Can I ask what did you did with the pulpit and handrail? or did it not come with one??

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1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
On the hard undergoing, a full on refit and repower, with Chevrolet 454
Making real progress now
baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/g...to-leak?limitstart=0

Windlass Install, Contessa 10 Feb 2015 18:59 #10

  • Norton Rider
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This is a great mod. It is something that was on the to-do list for my 1989, 2858. In the end I ended up selling the boat and getting a larger one.

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Windlass Install, Contessa 11 Feb 2015 03:46 #11

  • BobbieNicole
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SKUA 28 Contessa wrote: Can I ask what did you did with the pulpit and handrail? or did it not come with one??


Didn't come with one, though I thought about adding one. I opted for the bow roller instead--I had to mount it off-center to keep the locker usable.

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Bobbie
Anchorage, Alaska
1983 2850 Contessa, 5.7L Volvo-Penta AQ 280, single prop.

Windlass Install, Contessa 26 Jun 2015 15:26 #12

  • fair_hair_boater
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I had my installed cut back on vbith installed header wall and door. chain drops straight

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Life begins after a divorce, happily divorced

Windlass Install, Contessa 01 Jul 2015 15:18 #13

  • BobbieNicole
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Great way to do it if you don't mind giving up some of the Vberth

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Bobbie
Anchorage, Alaska
1983 2850 Contessa, 5.7L Volvo-Penta AQ 280, single prop.

Windlass Install, Contessa 26 Mar 2016 19:25 #14

  • GregF1962
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Sorry to come into this thread late, but I am contemplating adding a windlass to our 1983 Bayliner Contessa Sunbridge. I like the idea of using pipe to work the chain down to the v-berth. Beats cutting the bunks down to size to allow the chain to drop although I may end doing some cutting. It would nice to mock up a pipe to fit in that location, then find someone in town that can mold a 2" pipe to that model.

We keep our boat moored at Detroit Lake (Oregon freshwater) in the summer time, but there is no drain in the hold. It's not an anchor locker, it's space in front of where the water tank is kept. The section where the tank is sitting is glassed off, so you can't tell what's underneath. If I drill a hole at the base of what would be the anchor locker, will water pool under the water tank or eventually make it's way back to the bilge. Alternatively, do I even worry about it? Hard to know how much water would accumulate as it easily hits 100 degrees in the cabin in the summer time.

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Greg
1983 Bayliner Contessa sunbridge
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