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TOPIC: Mikey's engine mount rebuild

Mikey's engine mount rebuild 22 Apr 2007 21:45 #1

  • fordm
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When I was removing the enginelast week I realized the lag bolts were not tight in thier holes. I suspected that there may be some trouble. Also Jim (speakerdude) gave me the goods on what to look for.
Low and behold, the rot. Look familliar Jim??

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The stringer was fine for some reason. Its dry and sound with a few dark spots. It's weird since the lumber on both sides was completly rotten. It's like its a different type of wood. Anyone know the species??

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So in my great wisdom I decided that the other side must be the same. Well not as bad as I thought.

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Looks not to bad EH??

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Well I couldnt leave it alone and I started to poke around and since I had already removed the glass this is what I found. Im glad I did she was starting to go as well.



Tune in next week
Cheers
Michael

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 22 Apr 2007 23:14 #2

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it's a good thing you're as handy as you are Mike. That boat would be the bane of most boaters, but I'm confident you'll get it fixed. Good luck!

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Whiskywizard
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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 23 Apr 2007 07:24 #3

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I had the same sort of thing.
I had rot in the transom, especially around the
stringers but the stringers where solid.
Maybe its tropical hardwood?
Gr Anthony

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 23 Apr 2007 10:12 #4

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Yep! Looks just like mine only I think mine were worse. I learned how to dig out with a paddle bit from Rick. Just drill the crap out of it then vaccum. (be carefull not to go to far!) and Yes the stringers are made of some kind of hardwood. Not sure what it is. From memory, I dont think my stringers were left in there.

Replacement was pretty straight forward, again with Rick's guidence, started out with a layer of wetted out glass, then 1/2" ply, wet, layer of glass, ply, over and over untill flush with top of existing shell. Bout 1/4 to 1/2 way, I used screws to hold plys to each other. End result is super strong.

After pics

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Jim Crews
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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 23 Apr 2007 16:30 #5

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Wow speakrdude, I looked at your pictures, now thats a big job. Looks good, I am getting ready to put my engine and now I am looking really close at the stringers to make sure I dont have any rot. so far they look pretty good.

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Larry and Susie
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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 23 Apr 2007 18:32 #6

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THe stringers should be Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Extremely rot resistant. It was a big selling point of 1980s Bayliners.

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 23 Apr 2007 19:16 #7

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The rot does not appear to be at or near the lag bolt holes. but the moisture had to come from somewhere, right.

No expert here - but I'd suggest taking a closer look to see if it wicked up from below, and if there is a problem in the hull. Or did you see a crack in the glass before you cut the top off the engine mount block?

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 23 Apr 2007 22:06 #8

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whiskywizard;17969 wrote: The rot does not appear to be at or near the lag bolt holes. but the moisture had to come from somewhere, right.

No expert here - but I'd suggest taking a closer look to see if it wicked up from below, and if there is a problem in the hull. Or did you see a crack in the glass before you cut the top off the engine mount block?


When I found the land yacht I opened the engine hatch and the ice was over the stringers. So 8 years of water and ice and this is what you have.

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 24 Apr 2007 15:25 #9

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Thanks, Jim, for the compliment..... Been there/done that/like to share kind of thing!

Mike, the factory used just plain old Fir wood or Hemlock wood. I don't think you'll find any type of Hardwood in a stringer or transom, as Hardwoods do not hold up to moisture very well..... especially Oak. (exotic woods do, but resins will not adhere to them.) Alaska Yellow would be a great choice also, but it is a soft wood. I've not seen any AY in a stringer, but who knows. Best to use Plywood on this type of application. A lag bolt in plywood will have a better grip by about 300%.

You did the right thing by leaving the glass structure in tact. I've used paddle bits to help remove all of the rotten wood. Shop vac it clean. (I see Jim just mentioned that) I'd recommend fitting plywood pieces in these and then "chink" them in place w/ matting strands wet w/ resin, as I'm sure you will do. Plywood will make a much better mount for you than dimensional lumber will, IMO.

Contrary to my normal idiosyncratic perfection methods, I'd not kill myself trying to replace everything that looks a little punky......treat it, replace the rotten areas, and close her up. The mounts are much more critical than other areas, excluding the transom, of course!

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 25 Apr 2007 04:49 #10

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I would recommend treating the existing wood with CPES to stop the rot from traveling any further and protect what is left. Also any new piece put in should be treated with CPES. The CPES people also make a great epoxy called L&L Resin, easy to work with. They have a tech line that is even available on the weekends. Great products and knowledgable help. You can google it and get to their website.

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 27 May 2007 01:22 #11

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I Think I Have This Problem Also. My Center Stringers Have A Thud Sound To Them . I Was Also Thinking Of Cutting The Top Glass On A Small Section, To See. Outside Stringers Sound Good.any Ideas?? Can Thiss Be Done Without Any Problems From The Engines? You Could Just Support The Engine From Under The Oilpan. And Cut The Top Off??

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 27 May 2007 11:35 #12

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Save yourself a ton of hastle and remove the engine to do a project like this.
#1 the weight of the engine will crush the oil pan it weighs 500 lbs
#2 you need room to move and repair
#3 I removed my engine in 7 min with the help of a backhoe
This is a job you CAN do.

Here is some linls to what I did

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Cheers
Michael

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Mikey's engine mount rebuild 01 Jun 2007 20:48 #13

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Here's their website : http://www.rotdoctor.com/

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There is nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. K. Grahame
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