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TOPIC: 38xx water tank replacement destruction

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 01:42 #1

  • Richard Tulip
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My 1988 3818 water tank leaked last summer. There were several threads last summer and past threads that were really helpful, thanks to all who posted. I hope this thread will help others who will be doing this project.

Tools:
circular saw
oscillating saw wood/metal blades
4 1/2" grinder
reciprocating saw metal blade
battery drill
various hand tools

Tanks:
Plasticmart.com (web site)
307 Industrial
Burnet, Tx. 78611
512-756-7937

3/8" polyethylene
B-380 42 gal.
B-162 30 gal.

Fittings (factory installed):
2" NPT to join tanks
1/2" NPT vents, outflow to pump
1 1/2" NPT fill hose
I would have the factory place the fittings, you submit a diagram for placement.

Destruction and tank removal

Stairs, carpet out, carpet will be a total redo.

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Starting to remove lower floor, note the oscillating saw.

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Tank uncovered

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Midship flooring removed to port stringer. A slot was cut in the tank aft of the head across the top. 4 1/2" grinder opened the slot and reciprocating saw cut it out. The sides and bottom were sectioned with an oscillating saw. The aft and forward parts were slid back, tilted up and lifted out. Midship door and bulkhead were removed.

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Tank out bilge quite clean mimor cleanup.

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Note the screw at the bottom of the aft door trim, it fastens into the bulkhead.

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That's six images continued
The following user(s) said Thank You: ironmike, bayliner15

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 01:52 #2

  • JimMc
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All the pictures are the same.

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Jim and Debbie McNeely
New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
Brighton, Michigan USA
MMSI # 367393410

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 02:21 #3

  • mmichellich
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JimMc;624657 wrote: All the pictures are the same.


I think it was a test for seniors like me. First time I looked they were all the same, but no longer.

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Started boating 1965
Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:01 #4

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The midship wall is taken out by removing the fabric trim by the forward dinette seat which is held in by plastic toggles, pull it off (comes hard). The screws are in the fiberglass underneath.

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The wires are labelled and disconnected

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Both tanks are installed, forward tank (42 gallon) first the reverse of removal.

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The two tanks are connected with 2" pipe and union note the blocks and cable hold down

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Fittings are connected, original fill hose (no modification), 1/2" vent hoses (note the "T") to each tank, outlet to the pump (no modification).

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The project took over 50 hours ( I work slow) with a lot of thought and sweat. Tanks cost $700.00 with shipping. Plywood, screws, other parts added costs that were total less than $800.00. I had a carpenter friend help me, his labor is not included.

The stairs will be rebuilt next spring, a hatch in the new floor extending under the stairs will give access to the bilge pumps under the stairs which will be removeable.

The Sara Ann sleeps now until spring.

Richard in Wisconsin

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:03 #5

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mmichellich,

You are right, this is my second attempt at pictures the first being over 1 1/2 years ago. If you don't use it you lose it.

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:14 #6

  • Jim Gandee
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Richard, great job and thanks for taking the time to post. Are the hold down cables standard in the maring industry? I would be concerned they would "saw" through the plastic tanks without better edge protection. Thoughts?

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Jim Gandee
1989 3888
Hino 175's
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38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:21 #7

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Jim,

I can't answer that question. The original hold downs were ss bands in plastic hose, in fact the hose was reused from the bands. If the cable becomes a problem i have access to it so it can be replaced with something else. Anyone else have feedback/ideas?

Richard

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:25 #8

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I'd like to post this in completed projects but don't know how. I assume it involves copy/paste but haven't a clue. Would someone instruct me so I can do that?

Richard

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:31 #9

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Jim Gandee
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Hino 175's
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38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 03:37 #10

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Richard Tulip;624694 wrote: I'd like to post this in completed projects but don't know how. I assume it involves copy/paste but haven't a clue. Would someone instruct me so I can do that?

Richard


I moved it for you, great work!

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Ryan
Hastings, Minnesota

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"Sonnie Due"
1999 Bayliner Ciera 3055
Twin Mercruiser 5.7L Bravo 2[/FONT]
MMSI : 338122217
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38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 18:39 #11

  • Tony B
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Tank out bilge quite clean mimor cleanup.

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What are those black cables with gray tape on them?:confused:

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Tony :D
1998, Bayliner 2855 Ciera
Mercruiser 502 (415hp)
Bravo III
2006, Aluminum (bunk) trailer

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 22:37 #12

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Tony,

The black are actually plastic strips duct taped by the manufacturer. I think they were put in to keep the tank bottom off the fiberglassed plywood base. There was a small space under the tank.

Richard

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 26 Oct 2011 22:41 #13

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Jim,

Thanks for the suggestion. They might fit under the cable in my installation, there is some slack. I will look into it further.

Richard

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38xx water tank replacement destruction 27 Oct 2011 18:20 #14

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Richard,

I suspect I am not far behind you on this project with my 88. Your pictures are super and give me hope!!

A couple of questions if you have time:

When removing the mid cabin wall - Is the step down sill between the upper hall floor and the midships cabin part of the wall and does it come out with the wall? Or is there another process I am missing ?

How is the forward end of that wall attached to the midships head wall and to the fiberglass overhead?

I see what appears to be a saw cut in the old tank. Did you cut the tank entirely in two to remove? How did you get to the sides and bottom if needed to cut ?

Comment: I have almost new carpet through out the boat. The pad was glued down and the carpet stapled where there was wood backing,with some of it glued. In your opinion do you think there is any chance to reuse the carpet?

Any input is appreciated.

Richard

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Richard
1988 3870 Bayliner

38xx water tank replacement destruction 27 Oct 2011 21:13 #15

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Why go thru all this work ? Would it not be easier to put a bladder or tank under the fwd. Berth ?

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38xx water tank replacement destruction 28 Oct 2011 00:04 #16

  • HarleyDawg
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BLUESMAN;625170 wrote: Why go thru all this work ? Would it not be easier to put a bladder or tank under the fwd. Berth ?


Maybe he wanted to keep the boat as close to original design as possible? Maybe he wanted to fix it the right way vs. jerry-rigging? Maybe the space under forward berth is otherwise occupied?

I know what choice I would make if I were considering two boats (all other things equal) - 1 with a properly replaced fresh water tank, or 1 with a bladder stuck under the forward berth and a useless tank inhabiting the bilge.

I think it says a lot about how he takes care of the rest of the boat by how he took care of this repair.

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M/V ANTINOUS

1992 3888 / Hino 210's (W04C-TI)
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38xx water tank replacement destruction 28 Oct 2011 02:29 #17

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In my case, as a Pacific Northwest Boater I have the 5 gal expansion tank for the hot water furnace, a 2 duct furnace heat exchange blower and a second 70 gal water tank under the forward berth. In remote areas I also have a 40 gal bladder which I can tie down forward of the windshield. This gives me a total of 180 gal of water when needed.

I understand why the midships tank is being replaced.

Good Luck

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Richard
1988 3870 Bayliner

38xx water tank replacement destruction 28 Oct 2011 10:42 #18

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Richard (LTCret),

1) The step down is not part of the wall, you will see screws and "L" brackets holding it when you disassemble, in reassembly I eliminated the "L" brackets and screwed a 2X2 on the lower floor to screw the step down in place at the bottom and refastened screws to the head bulkhead and step down, I think a much better way than brackets.

2) There are trim pieces to cover the forward end of the wall that are fastened by lots of staples, it comes off with the wall. The wall was butted tightly by the trim, screws through the fiberglass under the fabric trim, the screw through the forward door trim and tightly to the carpet and above monkey fur. The wall, in manufacture was inserted after carpet and monkey fur application. Friction does a lot.

3) Go back to the picture with the cut in the tank. This cut was enlarged to a rectangle about 6-8" all across the top to allow access for the oscillating saw ( this tool was invaluable in sectioning the sides and bottom of the tank and in cutting the wood floors up the bulkheads, you can see it in the second picture), I bought it for about $110.00 plus blades. With my woodworking hobby it will be useful, besides I am a tool nut.

4) I'm not a carpet person but if you are real careful with the cuts maybe. In areas where there was no pad the carpet came out pretty good if careful with the removing tool, I used a flat bar to get under it and separate the carpet/glue bond. Since my carpet was original it was time for a redo and I was not kind. Maybe somebody who is experienced can chime in with advice on removal, re-install, and hiding the surgery scars.

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 28 Oct 2011 10:44 #19

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Bluesman,

I looked at the forward berth area and rejected it.

Richard

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 28 Oct 2011 10:48 #20

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LTCret Richard,

My cruising is not to remote areas and anchorages for extended times. However, that is an excellent idea if it changes.

Richard

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 03 Nov 2011 15:47 #21

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Thanks much for the detailed answer. I am hitting the print button now.

Richard

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Richard
1988 3870 Bayliner

38xx water tank replacement destruction 04 Nov 2011 09:30 #22

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LTCret,

Please ask if questions arise. Good luck on your project.

Richard

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1988 3818 175 HinosNA

38xx water tank replacement destruction 06 Feb 2012 01:55 #23

  • R&Jonthebay
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Very nice job Richard.

Thank goodness my tank is not nearly as hard to get to. I saved this thread to my favs, just in case my tank ends up needing to be replaced.

Reed

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1988 3218-TAHITI

38xx water tank replacement destruction 07 Feb 2012 00:55 #24

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Reed,

Check your thread in Motor Yachts. Gordon (GMAU) posted a thread on his project with a tank at 12:37 AM. His 32 is 1995 model so I don't know if there were major changes in the differant year models. I note your tank is 90" long, I assume it can be removed in one piece?

Good luck

Richard

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38xx water tank replacement destruction 07 Feb 2012 02:09 #25

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Thanks for the heads up Richard.

To be honest, it's not my thread. We kinda hijacked it.:hammer

But the good news is, we stayed mostly on topic and provided additional info that was relevant.:beer-



As much as I'd like to replace the water tank, I'm not going to do it unless/until the old one is leaking. There are other projects that are more important to me. I only have so many boat bucks per season. Gotta use them carefully.


:D Reed

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R&Jonthebay
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1988 3218-TAHITI
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