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TOPIC: 1989 1750 restoration

1989 1750 restoration 30 Mar 2008 04:06 #1

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After six months of hard work I am finally finished with the interior of my 1989 1750. Last year in July my wife came home all excited because she had seen a flier for a Bayliner for sale. We have never had a boat but the PO was selling it pretty cheap so we decided to give boating a try. We loved it so much that I decided to fix it up. I did not know what I was getting in to but I would not trade the experience for anything and thanks to all of the guys here who answered my questions and helped me out with this project. The PO advertised new upholstery and carpet but the interior left alot to be desired. He got some dark blue vinyl and put it over the old upholstery, then bought some indoor/outdoor carpet and glued it down over the old carpet. I live in the Mojave desert where temps get 115-120 during the worst part of summer. I do not have to tell you how hot dark blue seats get in the 115 degree heat. Last year we all had to sit on wet towels. In addition he used regular staples and most were rusted out. It took me 2 days to get the dark blue upholstery and and all of the carpet out. I then sanded the floor and treated all of the bare spots with fiberglass resin. The local Bayliner dealership told me about Canvus Plus and Kim was a big help. All I had to do was give her the hull number and 3 weeks later I recieved all of the upholstery custom made, original color. Once I started recovering and carpeting the going was pretty slow as I did not know what I was doing. I eventually got better at it and could tell a big difference toward the end. I had to make some new seats due to rotten wood but fortunately the floor was in good shape. I did have to make a new ski locker cover. You can see where the wood is separated in one of the first pics. Overall I used 2 rolls of 20 oz rubber backed carpet, 3 gallons of glue, and 8000 staples (8 boxes). After all was said and done I went over the exterior with a 3 step kit from Meguires that worked great. They have an oxidation remover, polish, and wax. The exterior of the boat is banged up in some places but overall it does not look bad. Last week I took it for servicing and they had to replace some parts in the drive and the wheel bearings on the trailer. They also replaced the bilge pump and the blower motor. The mechanic told me that the boat had not been serviced in 3 or 4 years. I took it out for 4 days last week to Lake Mojave near Laughlin, NV (see thread "4 days on the boat" under the General Boating forum) and the boat ran great. We all had a good time. This is my second season and I could not wait to get out there again. Enjoy the pics. I enjoyed making them.

Todd

http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm206/mckinneymt/restoration/

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1989 1750 restoration 30 Mar 2008 04:46 #2

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Sweet looking redo. You'd never guess that was a 19 year old boat with all that shine.

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Good Luck & Smooth Cruisin' to ya'll! :arr
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1989 1750 restoration 30 Mar 2008 14:06 #3

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that's a hell of job, good work! I'm looking at doing some reupholstering on my 2550, how difficult was it? Do you know of anyplace I can pick up some DIY info?

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 30 Mar 2008 18:36 #4

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Like I said in the post it was pretty difficult at first, but like anything you get better at it with practice. The trick is to not get in a hurry and not get frustrated, sometimes easier said than done. I did not have much in the way of do it yourself information. I took the seats out and took them apart and went from there. I did not take any of the old upholstery off before I was ready to cover it. That way it was fresh in my mind how it should go on there. I also drew diagrams of how things should fit back together. I talked to my uncle who has restored his interior a couple of times and he gave me some advice but over all I just took things real slow and did one piece at a time. If you are going to be doing carpet, I bought the carpet from boat carpet buys and they had a "how to install boat carpet" brochure online. That helped alot. One thing about the carpet, buy more than you need because you will screw up, and do not skimp on the glue. A good rule of thumb is buy twice as many feet as the length of your boat if you are going to cover the entire thing like I did. When you install the carpet cut the carpet pieces much larger than they need to be at first. You will be surprised at how easy it is to cut the wrong size. I messed this up a couple of times too but covered it up ok. Remember this when you start, none of the carpet goes in flat, there is always a curve so it takes more. Back to the upholstery, ordering from Canvus Plus helped alot because all of the pieces were custom made. I started with the seats because they were the most obvious. Those seats are all stapled down pretty good though. In addition to being stapled on the bottom everything is also stapled under the cushions. All of the seating upholstery comes with flaps that you staple down before you put the cushions back in. I used the old cushions, they were all in good shape. As far as the stapling, I used a screwdriver and a pair of pliers to get the old staples out, very tedious, and make sure you have a good staple gun. Also use stainless steel staples, they are expensive ($12 a box) but they do not rust. By far the hardest part of the entire project were the side panels. The screws that hold them in are in between the folds of the upholstery and you have to find them. Also, do not forget to make tiny holes in the vinyl where the screws go. The first side panel took me 2 and a half days because there are so many little pieces. Bayliner puts about a million and a half staples in these side panels and it takes forever to get the old stuff off. At this point you will be cutting the upholstery yourself, that is why you should start with the seats to get a good feel for how to cover. Once again, diagrams help. Be prepared to have to make some of the parts depending on how old your boat is. I had to make seat parts because of rotted wood. Overall the wood was ok in my boat, especially the floor. I live in the desert so the boat does not get wet much and I think that helped alot. I had to make the ski locker cover, the two seats in the back, and one of the seats in the bow. After I cut the wood I brushed on some fiberglass resin. Expect problems but once you deal with the first couple then it's not that bad. There is not much that can't be undone. The number for Canvus Plus is 360-435-0932. All you have to do is give Kim your hull number and tell her which pieces you want. Overall, between the carpet, upholstery, staples, glue, etc it costs me about $1800. Keep in mind I did a 17 ft bowrider. Regardless it is a great excuse to buy tools. The Admiral went with me a couple of times to Home Depot and she would just laugh saying that I was like a little kid. The project was totally worth it. Although it is small and relatively slow I love the boat. When I took it out last week I got several compliments on it, most people look at me weird when tell them it is almost 20 years old. This got a little long but hope it helps. Let me know if you need anything else.

Todd

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1989 1750 restoration 30 Mar 2008 23:42 #5

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Todd thanks for the info and the lead on Canvas plus, that could help a lot if the vinyl is precut. Unfortunately I'm going to be working from scratch on my L seat (2550) the PO removed it and didn't replace it. I have some good info from other posts on how the seat is made, and I'm a fair carpenter, shouldn't be a problem there. I've never done vinyl work before so it's going to be a "learning" experience for me too lol!Again, fantastic job, I hope mine turns out near as nice!

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 31 Mar 2008 08:00 #6

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Thanks for the compliments. Hope to see pics of your 2550 when you get it finished.

Todd

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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 08:52 #7

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how much did just the new upholstery cost from Canvas Plus?

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1988 Bayliner Capri 1950 bowrider - SOLD June 2016

1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 13:59 #8

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mc good looking job man - the mcguires stuff worked for ya huh? I tried mcguires once on my 89' and didn't turn out quite like I wanted, maybe I didn't have the right stuff. Shaw I rebuilt my L seat on mine last season and it turned out better than I expected. Now to re do the helm chair. I'm afraid I'm gonna have to do a floor job on the cabin soon, won't know til I pull up the carpet I guess, but don't wanna do that unless I replace the gas tank - I'd hate to redo the floor then a year or two down the road have to pull it all up to put in a new tank :eek: It's to bad Bayliner didn't put that gas tank somewhere more accessable, not sure where that would be but darn that sucker is buried under everything :hammer

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Steve j
1989 Ciera 2655 - 7.5 L OMC K/C *sold*" in search of the next one :D
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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 15:56 #9

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stevej2655;131464 wrote: mc good looking job man - the mcguires stuff worked for ya huh? I tried mcguires once on my 89' and didn't turn out quite like I wanted, maybe I didn't have the right stuff. Shaw I rebuilt my L seat on mine last season and it turned out better than I expected. Now to re do the helm chair. I'm afraid I'm gonna have to do a floor job on the cabin soon, won't know til I pull up the carpet I guess, but don't wanna do that unless I replace the gas tank - I'd hate to redo the floor then a year or two down the road have to pull it all up to put in a new tank :eek: It's to bad Bayliner didn't put that gas tank somewhere more accessable, not sure where that would be but darn that sucker is buried under everything :hammer


Got pics of the job in progress??? I saw one member who did a fair job of documenting his from scratch, but the more the better!!

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 16:55 #10

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nah, didn't take any pics while doing that project, should have :hammer but didn't

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Steve j
1989 Ciera 2655 - 7.5 L OMC K/C *sold*" in search of the next one :D
The Weathers Here, Wish you Were Beautiful"
Jimmy Buffett for President :arr
Margaritaville - It's not just a destination...it's a state of mind!

1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 17:49 #11

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The upholstery was $998 including tax, shipping, etc. That is for everything in the boat, including side panels. You have to cut most of the side panels yourself and toward the end I came up short on the white. I called her up and she sent more, no charge. The Mequires stuff did work pretty good but we'll see how good it holds up after I put it in the water a couple of times. I still think I need to wet sand it.

Todd

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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 18:26 #12

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I'd resign yourself to the idea that you will have to polish and wax the boat twice a year to maintain the finish. I am doing the same on my Ciera. The good news is once you polish it up, it gets easier since there's not 20 years of built-up oxidation to contend with.

Wet sanding will be ideal, but the fading will come back. Its just a sad fact of life.

For the 2550 gent, I have the original brochure for your boat. It doesn't show how the L seat is constructed, but if you just want to see how it looked stock, let me know and I can forward it to you.

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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 18:46 #13

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stevej2655;131535 wrote: nah, didn't take any pics while doing that project, should have :hammer but didn't


bummer.....:(

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 18:47 #14

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Download_Complete;131568 wrote: I'd resign yourself to the idea that you will have to polish and wax the boat twice a year to maintain the finish. I am doing the same on my Ciera. The good news is once you polish it up, it gets easier since there's not 20 years of built-up oxidation to contend with.

Wet sanding will be ideal, but the fading will come back. Its just a sad fact of life.

For the 2550 gent, I have the original brochure for your boat. It doesn't show how the L seat is constructed, but if you just want to see how it looked stock, let me know and I can forward it to you.


Thanks that would be appreciated. I've seen tons of them online but its not really enought to go on for a scratch build. I might just have to design my own, maybe I can sell them to others like me lol! ;)

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 19:15 #15

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Yeah, I've pretty much figured out that I'm going to have to wax it a few times a year. I still want to do the wet sand though. There are alot of scratches on it and I think the wet sand will get them off, at least most of them.

Todd

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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 19:50 #16

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If I may, would you mind documenting that process? Pics, materials, procedure, etc. Wet sanding is probably something I will want to tackle as well.

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Matt Train
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Chicagoland, IL

1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 20:04 #17

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Here's the scan of the 1986 2550. Right click and save as a picture. Sorry for the size...

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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 20:24 #18

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stevej2655;131535 wrote: nah, didn't take any pics while doing that project, should have :hammer but didn't


same here on my project. I wish I had docomumented it from the tear down.:hammer

for those of you that are contemplating wet sanding to get rid of the oxidation. I highly recommend it. once the old oxidation is gone you only have to maintain the current condition.

Steps for Wet sanding.

1. Wet sand with 2000 or higher. use lots of water. A bucket of water works great.

2. Buff with Rubbing compound. Sanding will leave little tiny scratches. :)

3. Buff with Polish. Will leave you with a nice shiny "New" surface.

4. Wax the sucker with your choice of wax. I prefer a paste wax over a liquid wax.

5. Maintain, (with an ocassional wax, I'd say beginning, middle and end of season.

Once the oxidation is gone, the entire process will be more effecient every time you do it, as you won't have to keep removing the oxidation.

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1987 Bayliner 2150 bowrider (One of a Kind)
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5.0 liter / OMC Cobra / 15 1/2 x 14 SS prop
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1989 1750 restoration 03 Apr 2008 23:34 #19

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briankstan;131622 wrote: same here on my project. I wish I had docomumented it from the tear down.:hammer

for those of you that are contemplating wet sanding to get rid of the oxidation. I highly recommend it. once the old oxidation is gone you only have to maintain the current condition.

Steps for Wet sanding.

1. Wet sand with 2000 or higher. use lots of water. A bucket of water works great.

2. Buff with Rubbing compound. Sanding will leave little tiny scratches. :)

3. Buff with Polish. Will leave you with a nice shiny "New" surface.

4. Wax the sucker with your choice of wax. I prefer a paste wax over a liquid wax.

5. Maintain, (with an ocassional wax, I'd say beginning, middle and end of season.

Once the oxidation is gone, the entire process will be more effecient every time you do it, as you won't have to keep removing the oxidation.


I did mine with 1500 and buffed, even still I'm thinkin I'll need to have another go, we'll see...

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 04 Apr 2008 13:07 #20

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I know rubbing compound and I know wax - what kind of polish didya use ? Is it all marine grade ? I used 3M oxidation / polish last season and it turned out ok but I didn't wet sand because I wasn't educated enough about it. I thought it would leave massive scratches and damage the gel coat. know better now. Project I wanna tackle soon. :arr

Stevej2655

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Steve j
1989 Ciera 2655 - 7.5 L OMC K/C *sold*" in search of the next one :D
The Weathers Here, Wish you Were Beautiful"
Jimmy Buffett for President :arr
Margaritaville - It's not just a destination...it's a state of mind!

1989 1750 restoration 04 Apr 2008 13:18 #21

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stevej2655;131854 wrote: I know rubbing compound and I know wax - what kind of polish didya use ? Is it all marine grade ? I used 3M oxidation / polish last season and it turned out ok but I didn't wet sand because I wasn't educated enough about it. I thought it would leave massive scratches and damage the gel coat. know better now. Project I wanna tackle soon. :arr

Stevej2655


I used the 3M medium grade compound/wax combo, it did fine, got a nice shine to her now. I'm more concerned with the yellowing of the gelcoat from age, I don't think my boat will ever be that white again lol, but it'd be nice...

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1986, Ciera Sunbridge 2550
5.8L Volvo Penta
270 Volvo Outdrive (soon to be 290!)

1989 1750 restoration 04 Apr 2008 14:31 #22

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stevej2655;131854 wrote: I know rubbing compound and I know wax - what kind of polish didya use ?

Stevej2655


I use Meguiars Mirror Glaze. It's a polish with no wax. Comes in various 'cuts'. The lower the number, the faster the cut.. #3's about right. For a black/dark, I use a #7 for less swirls.

Autoparts stores should have it

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1987 Capri 1950 BR
5.0l OMC Cobra
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1989 1750 restoration 04 Apr 2008 16:58 #23

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I used the Meguires on my boat as well. The back end of each side was turning white. The stuff I used was a 3 step process, marine grade. It starts with an oxidation remover that worked great, then a polish and wax. I used a buffer and that helped alot too. It was a bit pricey at $43.00 but worth it for what it did to the finish.

Todd

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1989 1750 restoration 04 Apr 2008 18:13 #24

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hey mc did you ever wet sand or just use the mcguires ? I saw in your previous post you were going to.

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Steve j
1989 Ciera 2655 - 7.5 L OMC K/C *sold*" in search of the next one :D
The Weathers Here, Wish you Were Beautiful"
Jimmy Buffett for President :arr
Margaritaville - It's not just a destination...it's a state of mind!

1989 1750 restoration 04 Apr 2008 22:27 #25

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Didn't do the wet sand yet, maybe next weekend. We are taking it out on the 2nd and I want to get it done before then but we will see. The exterior is decent right now, thanks to the Meguires. The wet sand will be mainly to get some scratches off.

Todd

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