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TOPIC: New head and sanitation system

New head and sanitation system 01 Feb 2008 04:27 #1

  • mattkab
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This was not a fun job.

The head on our Bayliner leaked. We knew this when we bought it, as it was identified in the survey as needing a repair or a overhaul. So I bought a new Raritan Compact II this month and started the project. Once I started looking into the system, however, I found out that I should probably take the project on and do a complete redesign.

The original system had a Y-valve off the tank that allowed for direct overboard discharge. It also had a T off the pumpout line to a macerator for, again, direct overboard discharge. If anyone that wants to take a 28' Bayliner 3 miles offshore, more power to them, but I ain't gonna do it. So these "extras" are illegal for regional Puget Sound boating. I wanted to simply have one run from the head to the holding tank, and a second run from the holding tank to the deck fitting, and capping off the two, now unused and above-the-waterline, through-hulls.

The original system, with the Y-valve and the Macerator:

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Once the Y-valve was replaced, rejoining the hoses through a plastic coupler was almost impossible. I ended up building a 3:1 block and tackle to compress the hose on the coupler:

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With the block and tackle, and some dish soap, and some hot water, I got the hose within a 1/2" of the end of the coupler. Then I double-clamped both sides, and wrapped it in self-amalgamating tape. Then I got to do the Macerator joint the same way. Two days later, this is what I have in the bilge:

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And this is the through-hulls (one brand new since it sheared off in my hand removing the hose), capped off under the captain's chair

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Thanks,
Matt B.
1986 Contessa Flybridge with Twin Volvo 5.0L engines -- SOLD
1984 CHB Trawler -- FOR SALE
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New head and sanitation system 01 Feb 2008 04:30 #2

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The head replacement itself should have been more straightforward. I first removed the old head, and epoxied over the holes (and a few cracks in the base as well):

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Then I installed the new head. Twice. The first time it leaked substantially from the joker valve assembly. So I removed the new head, disassembled it, cleaned it, reassembled and tested. It worked fine. Then I reinstalled...

And it leaked again. The location put too much pressure on the assembly, and it pried the rubber seal of the joker valve away from the toilet assembly. So I removed it again, epoxied over my new holes, and move the entire toilet about two inches to the right and reassembled. Now we have a non-leaky head:

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Thanks,
Matt B.
1986 Contessa Flybridge with Twin Volvo 5.0L engines -- SOLD
1984 CHB Trawler -- FOR SALE
https://mvcesc.wordpress.com/

New head and sanitation system 01 Feb 2008 04:32 #3

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Oh, but I wasn't finished. The deck pumpout was coroded and nasty

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But to get to the hose clamps, you need to disassemble the captains chair:

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And that meant discovering that the braces that hold the backrest had all broken, and needed to be replaced:

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But in the end, I have an almost completely new sanitation system.

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Thanks,
Matt B.
1986 Contessa Flybridge with Twin Volvo 5.0L engines -- SOLD
1984 CHB Trawler -- FOR SALE
https://mvcesc.wordpress.com/

New head and sanitation system 02 Feb 2008 03:27 #4

  • Nehalennia
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Oh, what we do to float around, eat and drink too much on a weekend that is too short.:ouch

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Skål,
Todd
~Nehalennia ∆~ Celtic Goddess of the Seafarers
2000 ~ SeaRay ~ 260DA, 5.7L EFI, Bravo III

MMSI: 338080206

New head and sanitation system 03 Feb 2008 13:20 #5

  • RICKNMEGS3870
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Just for future reference, a heat gun works wonders on hose connections.I just completed an electo-san waste treatment system on mine,was able to make half a dozon connections quickly......try it with some scrap pieces you will be amazed! Rick

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New head and sanitation system 05 Feb 2008 04:19 #6

  • The_Sea_Word
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Matt;
This is coming at a great time, I have the same boat and need to do the same thing- I'm replacing the Y and macerator just to keep OEM configuration but I need to replace the head and deck fill just like you. I looked at the Raritan, but finally went with the cheaper Jabsco because I think it's about an inch lower and I was concerned about the "step up".

Question #1: if you cut the deck fill hose can the hose clamps be snuck out the top to allow you to remove the deck fill with some hose attached and reinstall by attaching the hose before bedding the deck fill? I'm trying to avoid that helm disassembly scenario but I guess if I have to, I have to.

Question #2: What sanitation hose are you using? I'm looking at "odorsafe" which is kinda pricey at $8/ft, (25') but I can't find it in the 1", so it looks like I'll have to use the $3/ft stuff for the macerator line?

Question #3: How hard is it to get the hose from the head to the compartment? It lloks pretty tight under there and the hose just disappears after leaving the compartment and re-emerges at the head. I'm jkinda scratching my head over that one, reckon I'll try to use the old hose to pull a new one?

Thanks,
-Will

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New head and sanitation system 05 Feb 2008 21:41 #7

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The_Sea_Word;109908 wrote: Question #1: if you cut the deck fill hose can the hose clamps be snuck out the top to allow you to remove the deck fill with some hose attached and reinstall by attaching the hose before bedding the deck fill? I'm trying to avoid that helm disassembly scenario but I guess if I have to, I have to.


No, the hose clamps can't come up through the deck cutout. But dissassembling the captain's chair wasn't that tough -- just 12 screws from below, and 4 from the side of the setee, and my cordless drill made short work of it.

I did skip over one step at this point as well -- the new deck fitting was larger than the old, and required enlarging the hole by 1/4"... To do this, I bought a large wooden plug to put in the hole. I cut it at the point just larger than the existing hole, so that when I inserted it, it only stuck up by a fraction of an inch. This gave the bit of the hole saw something to dig into, and kept the new hole centered.

Does that make any sense?

Question #2: What sanitation hose are you using? I'm looking at "odorsafe" which is kinda pricey at $8/ft, (25') but I can't find it in the 1", so it looks like I'll have to use the $3/ft stuff for the macerator line?.

I used the stock series 148 stuff.... but much of it was re-used. I did the hot-rag trick to test (wet a clean towel with hot water, wipe the hose, smell the rag) and none of the hose was permeated.

Question #3: How hard is it to get the hose from the head to the compartment? It lloks pretty tight under there and the hose just disappears after leaving the compartment and re-emerges at the head. I'm jkinda scratching my head over that one, reckon I'll try to use the old hose to pull a new one?

The previous owner ran a new hose run. If you remove the floor below the helm at the foot of the captains chair, they had drilled forward into the head, and downward into the bilge. Behind the head is a cabinet, with shelving in it -- if you remove the shelf, then you can rerun the hose fairly easily through these locations, but you will see the hose in that storage compartment.

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Thanks,
Matt B.
1986 Contessa Flybridge with Twin Volvo 5.0L engines -- SOLD
1984 CHB Trawler -- FOR SALE
https://mvcesc.wordpress.com/

New head and sanitation system 06 Feb 2008 03:07 #8

  • The_Sea_Word
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Thanks, Matt: all good info.

My only problem was when I disconnected the tee on the empty tank to find out it was actually a FULL tank (eeeeeeck!) and man, can years-old s*it flow through an 1-1/2" hose in a hurry! Hey, wanna buy a Shop Vac really really really cheap ? Luckily the "solids" ran to the back and only a little liquid made it to the lower bilge- followed by about a gallon of bleach and citrus cleanser. But I will not make THAT mistake again!

-Will

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